For those of you using RO water

[mblanks2]

I have good water, but recently our municipal supply has had severe issues with the water treatment facility and had to change to another source which is good water but without another report I don't know what the water is actually like. We've had periods of very high Chlorine smell and know that our water is constantly changing. This has been going on for over 75 days with no date of completion available.
I am considering installing a RO system and 38 gallon storage tank. This should provide more than enough water for any brew day and I wouldn't need to concern myself with what I have prior to brewing.
To keep water flowing through the system I plan to tie my ice maker/water dispenser into this system which should maintain a fresh supply of water.
My question to the users of RO systems is about building the water to suit the needs of a particular style.
For example, if I am starting from a blank canvas and need to meet a certain profile what additions should I be using? I currently use Calcium Chloride, Gypsum and 85% Phosphoric Acid for adjustments, Campden tablets for chlorine and the Bruin Water spreadsheet. Are there any additional items I should need to add Magnesium or Sodium back to the RO water or are either even a real concern?

 

[Homercidal]

If your supply is changing, then an RO system makes prefect sense. They don't cost that much and you have enough water to meet your needs for brewing and more.

What I normally have on hand is:

Calcium Sulfate (Gypsum)
Calcium Chloride
Magnesium Sulfate (Epsom Salt)
Phosphoric Acid

Gypsum and Calcium Chloride are the two main additions. I sometimes use a bit of Magnesium to help the yeast so a touch of Epsom Salt. I've *rarely* had need to grab the baking soda, but that was just me being stupid.

I bought a big bottle of Phos. acid from Amazon at 88% solution and I dilute it down to 44% and store in my brewing kit. I just replace that after the smaller bottle gets low.

I also use Campden Tabs for Chloramines because even though I get RO water from the store, I can't be sure they treated it properly to remove chloramines and I have no way of testing it.

 

[mblanks2]

I sometimes use a bit of Magnesium to help the yeast so a touch of Epsom Salt.

This was my thoughts but I was concerned that using Epson Salt to add Magnesium which raises PH and then in turn lowering it with the other additions seemed counter intuitive.
Thanks for the input. I'm sure I'll be making the move soon.
Edit - Would you consider DI resin as well or is RO alone ok?

 

[Homercidal]

RO alone is fine.

 

[mabrungard]

Magnesium lowers mash pH. Including something like 10 to 20 ppm Mg can be helpful to the yeast and its especially helpful when brewing hop and bittering focused beers.

 

[mblanks2]

Magnesium lowers mash pH. Including something like 10 to 20 ppm Mg can be helpful to the yeast and its especially helpful when brewing hop and bittering focused beers.

Good information. Thanks.

RO alone is fine.

Thanks for the input. I'm looking at an RO filter and need to figure out a way to store 20+ gallons of water that has been filtered for brew day. I am currently looking for a food grade non-pressurized tank so that I fill with RO water the day before brew day and run it dry until the next brew day. After speaking with a rep for the filter he suggested not using a pressurized tank as it would increase the waste produced and decrease the efficiency of the system.

 

[Sunward33]

Check out the building up water sticky at https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=198460

 

[mblanks2]

Check out the building up water sticky at https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=198460

Thank you. I understand water chemistry pretty well. I just always considered that adding Epsom Salt to a grist when trying to lower the PH was counter intuitive but now understand that to be a means of obtaining a desired Magnesium level.
My biggest area of concern now is how to go about building a system that I can store 20+ gallons of RO water the day before brewing then how to maintain that system between uses when it is left dry.

Thanks to all for your input.

 

[mabrungard]

After speaking with a rep for the filter he suggested not using a pressurized tank as it would increase the waste produced and decrease the efficiency of the system.

Absolutely. Discharging to atmospheric pressure does improve RO system efficiency. I suggest you purchase a new polyethylene tank or a thick-walled industrial trash can for storage and include a float valve to shut off the system and avoid overflow.

 

[mblanks2]

Absolutely. Discharging to atmospheric pressure does improve RO system efficiency. I suggest you purchase a new polyethylene tank or a thick-walled industrial trash can for storage and include a float valve to shut off the system and avoid overflow.

Thanks, Martin. This is exactly what I'm looking for. I'm trying to find a suitable tank that I can mount in my ceiling to utilize gravity to feed and a fill valve that is suitable for RO water. I understand that RO water and brass do not play well together. Any recommendation on where to find these products? 20 to 40 gallon tank and valve.

 

[ScrewyBrewer]

I bought a 15 gallon igloo 'cube' cooler, I only use 15 gallons of RO water on my system, it was inexpensive and it also serves to hold a 2.5 gallon corny keg and ice for parties. You could buy 2 of them and then have more than enough capacity and then use them as I do for other purposes too.

I also use Epsom salt, Lactic Acid (88%), calcium chloride, gypsum to treat my water and a bit of baking soda if a little extra sodium is needed.

 

[Roadie]

With a former basement brewery I had an RO system with a 20 gallon holding tank (under pressure though). It fed an upstairs refrigerator/icemaker as well as having about 16 gallons of holding capacity for brewing. I loved it! We just moved to the south and I took it with me but still need to hook it up before I start brewing.

You will use a different water profile depending on what you are brewing so impossible to give a blanket set of numbers. I have Gypsum, Calcium Carbonate, Epsom Salt, Slaked Lime, Baking Soda, Chalk (never use this) and Lactic Acid. Depending on what I'm brewing these allow me to adjust the water profile to whatever I need on a consistent basis regardless of what the source water is doing.

There are a couple of spreadsheets that you can use to calculate your salt additions. I'm science stupid so use the EZ Water Calculator but many folks not quite as dumb as me use Martin's program.

Years ago I used to keep a 120 gallon stony reef tank and had tons of equipment monitoring/adjusting the water. Stony tanks filled with acropora and torts are tough to have flourish so you're particular on what equipment you get. I still use the same company for RO today that I did for RO-DI back then - airwaterice.com which is now theh2oguru.com. They have been around a LONG time, do nothing but quality water systems and have always been there for me when I had a question. I highly recommend them and you should at least take a look at their site when figuring out what you want to build.

 

[redawg]

I'll 2nd airwaterice.com I also had a couple salt water tanks set up and have used airwaterice.com for about 15 years now. They have replaced parts that cracked 10 years after purchase, probably from me over tightening. great company.

 

[Roadie]

I'll 2nd airwaterice.com I also had a couple salt water tanks set up and have used airwaterice.com for about 15 years now. They have replaced parts that cracked 10 years after purchase, probably from me over tightening. great company.

Thank goodness I got out of reef tanks and into brewing. For me it's so much more enjoyable! There was a stretch of 5-6 years where I was never away from the house overnight due to having to keep the tank happy.

 

[mabrungard]

Blichman has a pretty nice float valve. I've dealt with US Plastics in the past and they have quite a selection of tanks and trash cans.

 

[mblanks2]

Good information all.
I will be checking into all options and making a decision soon. Thanks again for everyone's input.

 

[Buckeye_Hydro]

Home Depot/Lowes for a Rubbermaid Brute Series trash can. Food grade HDPE. This isn't your solution however if you're looking to mount something between the ceiling joists.

We stock float valves.

Russ

 

[Buckeye_Hydro]

http://www.plastic-mart.com/category/12/rectangular-water-waste-tanks

some of these would fit nicely between joists.

 

[mblanks2]

http://www.plastic-mart.com/category/12/rectangular-water-waste-tanks

some of these would fit nicely between joists.

Thanks Russ. I think I have found a nice conical bottom 35 gallon full drain tank and will utilize my pump as opposed to trying to hang something in the ceiling. We spoke the other day about the system that I'm considering and I'll be in touch soon to place an order.

 

[mblanks2]

Thanks Russ. I think I have found a nice conical bottom 35 gallon full drain tank and will utilize my pump as opposed to trying to hang something in the ceiling. We spoke the other day about the system that I'm considering and I'll be in touch soon to place an order.

So I've purchased a 35 gallon full drain conical for storage from another online dealer and a complete premium ro system from Russ at Buckeye Hydro. I must say dealing with Russ was an absolute pleasure. Most dealers would've allowed me to buy whatever I added to my cart. Russ took the time to help me make a few changes that actually saved me money and was honest enough to take care of his customer. Ordered equipment this morning and it shipped this evening. You've got a customer for life here, Russ. I appreciate everything you've done to assist me.
GREAT customer service! Highly recommended.

 

[elerten]

I use a 35 gallon water storage tank from Tractor Supply company. I drilled a hole in it, and installed a float valve. It shuts off right at 30 gallons. I got it mounted on some of that heavy duty shelving from menards. It comes with a bulk head that accepts a 3/4 NPT plastic nipple and valve with some tygon tubing. Lets my RO system dispense under no pressure to my holding tank.

I think the tank was 99 bucks, the float valve was 8 and the nipple and valve for the bottom was 5.

 

[mblanks2]

I use a 35 gallon water storage tank from Tractor Supply company. I drilled a hole in it, and installed a float valve. It shuts off right at 30 gallons. I got it mounted on some of that heavy duty shelving from menards. It comes with a bulk head that accepts a 3/4 NPT plastic nipple and valve with some tygon tubing. Lets my RO system dispense under no pressure to my holding tank.

I think the tank was 99 bucks, the float valve was 8 and the nipple and valve for the bottom was 5.

I purchased a 35 gallon conical ace rotomold with legs for storage. A little more costly, but that's ok. My plan is to use a float valve to achieve 30 or so gallons of RO water. I want to be able to turn the system on 24 to 48 hours before I brew, use the stored water and not turn the system back on until before I brew again.
I feel like this should be a pretty solid plan.

 

[Buckeye_Hydro]

Sounds good. Make sure you use the RO membrane at least once a week. Membrane manufacturers recommend membranes be removed and soaked in a preservative solution if the time between uses is greater than a week.

Russ

 

[mblanks2]

Sounds good. Make sure you use the RO membrane at least once a week. Membrane manufacturers recommend membranes be removed and soaked in a preservative solution if the time between uses is greater than a week.

Russ

Will certainly do, Russ. Thanks again for all your help.