Float switch

[Arbe0]

I would like to install a float switch in my electric HLT so the water level won't go past my electric heating element. As we all know these elements need always to be under liquid because if ran dry while on causes the element to fail which can happen if not paying attention while sparging. This will be a HERMS system so I may be concerned with the HERMS coil being in the way along with the heating element being close to it.
Can you guys tell me of one that you may use that works good for you I would appreciate your help.

 

[BrunDog]

We would need to know more about your setup but offhand you could use a float which closes its contacts with liquid and electrically insert it between your SSR and its controller. Hardware type safety solution.

 

[RocketBrewer]

I use one similar to this and it works great. Like BrunDog said, I just interrupt the signal to the SSR with it.

 

[augiedoggy]

I use one similar to this and it works great. Like BrunDog said, I just interrupt the signal to the SSR with it.

same here at home.. I also have one like this in my 3bbl system
https://www.ebay.com/itm/USA-Stainl...489762&hash=item466b2efc0f:g:RkcAAOSwHSVcXaSM

it just wires inline to my ssr from the pid, interupting the dc power signal to the ssr when needed. think of it as a low amp/power switch

 

[Arbe0]

looking at this one. It seems to be able to take the heat from the HLT
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M17YYID/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Arbe0]

I am using 240v 30 amp controller that I built with a 5500 watt element. I will use the float switch to interrupt the line out of the PID to the SSR. Here is a look at it.

 

[Juuso]

https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/ODJ71uy

I use this in my boil kettle. I like that it has detachable connector built-in
This is how it looks in my kettle. Kettle is 45cm (18 inches) wide.

 

[Islandboy85]

What did y’all use to protect the wiring from the switch? I’ve thought of how I could add a strain relief or plug, but am not sure if it needs to be fully enclosed (IP6X) or if a piece of square channel could be used. I’m kicking myself since I bought them years ago, and have. Even taking my time building. Auber has them with M12 connectors built in.

 

[Arbe0]

This is a post from last year, I have learned a lot about this. Float switches aren't reliable they give out so don't use one.
An acquaintance of mine that owns the Ruby Street brewing systems says they came up with a better idea. Your dip tube normally points down to drain all your water/wort off from the bottom. If you turn that up instead of down your water/wort should be above the heating element and keeping it safe. you will lose maybe a gallon but I feel good about not worrying about it.
Sometimes smart people can come up with the simplest solutions.

 

[Islandboy85]

This is a post from last year, I have learned a lot about this. Float switches aren't reliable they give out so don't use one.
An acquaintance of mine that owns the Ruby Street brewing systems says they came up with a better idea. Your dip tube normally points down to drain all your water/wort off from the bottom. If you turn that up instead of down your water/wort should be above the heating element and keeping it safe. you will lose maybe a gallon but I feel good about not worrying about it.
Sometimes smart people can come up with the simplest solutions.

Interesting design thought. I still want them in my lauter grant for pup protection, but am gona experiment with some conductive designs. Thanks for the hint about them not being reliable. It is a loss with the dead space, and could have an affect on the time to heat sparge water or mash out with a HERMS, but I guess 1-2 gallons of water and 3.5-5.5Kw of heat shouldn’t take too long to heat up.

 

[ba-brewer]

If you have TC connection you could start with them up then rotate them later to get the last of the wort.
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc15diptubewhirlpool.htm
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc15rackingarm.htm
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc15pressfit90.htm

 

[Arbe0]

I have a Anvil pot that is use for the Boil pot. It has a dip tube and you can rotate the spigot so the dip tube rotates also. I have used it to get the last of the wort but have decided not to worry about the last 2 gallons that are left with the dip tube up. I have to add more wort to the boil pot to account for this but after whirlpooling I also don't have to worry about getting trub into my fermenter.

 

[Islandboy85]

If you have TC connection you could start with them up then rotate them later to get the last of the wort.
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc15diptubewhirlpool.htm
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc15rackingarm.htm
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc15pressfit90.htm

I was thinking that, but I’m cheap. Still using cam locks. Maybe someday when my house is payed for.

 

[Arbe0]

I have cam locks too. seem to work fine

 

[Islandboy85]

I have cam locks too. seem to work fine

Yeah, just a little harder to spin a dip tube on. The only place I’d really like to have trip eta would be the kettle, wort pump, chiller, and fermenter. I still ferment in buckets and kegs, so not even to that level. It’s just easier to clean tri-clovers.

 

[augiedoggy]

This is a post from last year, I have learned a lot about this. Float switches aren't reliable they give out so don't use one.
An acquaintance of mine that owns the Ruby Street brewing systems says they came up with a better idea. Your dip tube normally points down to drain all your water/wort off from the bottom. If you turn that up instead of down your water/wort should be above the heating element and keeping it safe. you will lose maybe a gallon but I feel good about not worrying about it.
Sometimes smart people can come up with the simplest solutions.

depends on the float switch I guess... mine is used every sunday at the brewpub and has never skipped a beat. same with the one in my boil kettle at home which has been in use for 6 years. To be fair, I do not use float switches in the boil kettles, they can become fouled up an stick and be unreliable there. luckily theres no point in having one in my boil kettles due to the brewing process I use as opposed to slowly draining my HLT while sparging where I would be more likely to leave an element on accidentally.
I would venture to guess that on most peoples home brewing kettles it takes more than a gallon to submerge the element. I know on my 16 gallon kettles it takes about 3 gallons to cover the element.

 

[Arbe0]

Mine takes about 2 gallons to cover the element. I would think maybe the kind and quality of the float switch would count. I have redone my equipment profile to include the new loss. Only brewed one brew with it and still dialing it in. Being a cheap guy I am staying with the dip tubes for now.

 

[Islandboy85]

depends on the float switch I guess... mine is used every sunday at the brewpub and has never skipped a beat. same with the one in my boil kettle at home which has been in use for 6 years. To be fair, I do not use float switches in the boil kettles, they can become fouled up an stick and be unreliable there. luckily theres no point in having one in my boil kettles due to the brewing process I use as opposed to slowly draining my HLT while sparging where I would be more likely to leave an element on accidentally.
I would venture to guess that on most peoples home brewing kettles it takes more than a gallon to submerge the element. I know on my 16 gallon kettles it takes about 3 gallons to cover the element.

While I ageee the heat is off in the kettle when you drain id you run on the heat too early when sparging that could be an issue. Getting fouled up with hops could be an issue. I can conductive being ‘or reliable and easier to clean.

 

[Arbe0]

another plus for the the dip tube to be up is at the end of the boil if you whirlpool all the hot break and hops drop to the bottom of the pot where you would suck it up if your dip tube is down. with the dip tube up you get clear wort into the fermenter.

 

[augiedoggy]

While I ageee the heat is off in the kettle when you drain id you run on the heat too early when sparging that could be an issue. Getting fouled up with hops could be an issue. I can conductive being ‘or reliable and easier to clean.

I can only speak for myself here but my system is not automated.. I turn my boil kettle on manually once the elements are covered... there is no fear of hops on my elements since , well I use hop spiders at home and bags at the brewery and the hops arent usually added until after the elements are already on. hops settling on the element and causing scorching is really only a concern if you turn the elements off for a while and the proteins/hops settle on the element and you turn them back on without stirring.. in these situations I dont see where a float switch would make any difference. again just my opinion that in my experience ive never run across a situation where I could have really benefited from the switch in the boil kettle... I guess If I wanted my element to automatically come on hen the level got high enough when sparging but thats not a safety thing...

 

[Islandboy85]

I can only speak for myself here but my system is not automated.. I turn my boil kettle on manually once the elements are covered... there is no fear of hops on my elements since , well I use hop spiders at home and bags at the brewery and the hops arent usually added until after the elements are already on. hops settling on the element and causing scorching is really only a concern if you turn the elements off for a while and the proteins/hops settle on the element and you turn them back on without stirring.. in these situations I dont see where a float switch would make any difference. again just my opinion that in my experience ive never run across a situation where I could have really benefited from the switch in the boil kettle... I guess If I wanted my element to automatically come on hen the level got high enough when sparging but thats not a safety thing...

My reasoning is purely for just in case I’m an idiot one day, and the simple fact that at least 1/4 of us on here love to over complicate the engineering I’m not looking to automate. The wort grant I’m working on will turn the pump on/off automatically. I’m going it’ll reduce grain bed contacting and cavitation. I’d run the pump valve open a little more than I should when recirculating on my old direct fire mash tun because the pump would cavitation after a while with the valve closed down most of the way. The grant will I’ll me to run slower wort takeoff, while allowing unrestricted pump outlet back to the mash tun. I do trust your experience over my own limited knowledge here.

 

[augiedoggy]

My reasoning is purely for just in case I’m an idiot one day, and the simple fact that at least 1/4 of us on here love to over complicate the engineering I’m not looking to automate. The wort grant I’m working on will turn the pump on/off automatically. I’m going it’ll reduce grain bed contacting and cavitation. I’d run the pump valve open a little more than I should when recirculating on my old direct fire mash tun because the pump would cavitation after a while with the valve closed down most of the way. The grant will I’ll me to run slower wort takeoff, while allowing unrestricted pump outlet back to the mash tun. I do trust your experience over my own limited knowledge here.

I totally understand wanting to engineer something and tinker. I tried automating my sparge once with a stainless float switch on my sparge arm which turned the pump on and off as needed and it worked but it would stick from grain floating in the mash wedging in the float. My suggestion would be to think about using smaller pumps. I use the $20 tan dc pumps with speed control knobs for this reason and the added benefit I found from recirculating at such a low rate (1.8gpm) is no channeling and 91% BH efficiency.

 

[Islandboy85]

I totally understand wanting to engineer something and tinker. I tried automating my sparge once with a stainless float switch on my sparge arm which turned the pump on and off as needed and it worked but it would stick from grain floating in the mash wedging in the float. My suggestion would be to think about using smaller pumps. I use the $20 tan dc pumps with speed control knobs for this reason and the added benefit I found from recirculating at such a low rate (1.8gpm) is no channeling and 91% BH efficiency.

I bought a tan pump for the HLT and have a Chugger for the wort. I wonder if a mesh cage around the float like a hop spider would do the trick. Conductive sensors is starting to look like the best option.

 

[Islandboy85]

I would like to install a float switch in my electric HLT so the water level won't go past my electric heating element. As we all know these elements need always to be under liquid because if ran dry while on causes the element to fail which can happen if not paying attention while sparging. This will be a HERMS system so I may be concerned with the HERMS coil being in the way along with the heating element being close to it.
Can you guys tell me of one that you may use that works good for you I would appreciate your help.

I think this might be something that might work since there are no moving switches.
He has another video on it too. I’ve looked into building my own control board from a 555 timer. They’re almost free they’re so cheap. I could just dangle wires in the pot too but it is killing me to settle for simple.

 

[Islandboy85]

Found the other video. My only problem with this design is id have to find some high temp insulation wire. There are $5 control boards on ebay vs the $95 one he used.

 

[gavinr]

I also contemplated installing a float switch, or a conductivity sensor (more involved circuit), but after considering the complexity of another cable with another hole in the kettle, and going with my ethos of Keep it Simple, I abandoned the idea. There is an old adage: "the best way to remember your wedding anniversary is to forget it once" The same goes for dry-firing an element. I stupidly did it once, and swear I will never make that mistake again!

 

[Islandboy85]

I also contemplated installing a float switch, or a conductivity sensor (more involved circuit), but after considering the complexity of another cable with another hole in the kettle, and going with my ethos of Keep it Simple, I abandoned the idea. There is an old adage: "the best way to remember your wedding anniversary is to forget it once" The same goes for dry-firing an element. I stupidly did it once, and swear I will never make that mistake again!

I overthink, overengineer, and blow the budget. I’m gona try making a pum level control circuit with a LM555 and another design with a CD4001. I’ll see why works best, and go with that.