Flare Fittings on Pin/Ball Locks?

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Just to keep things a little more flexible. I can buy some beer line and put a female flare fitting on it. Now i can attach the beer line to any quick disconnect. The line doesnt have to be married to just one.

This comes in handy for a lot of things, although im sure I could get by with just barbed connections. But i have a feeling i would need more quick disconnects.
 
Amazing-- this sounds like just what I need. I have a mix of Ball/Pin Lock Kegs. So if I buy a set of these, am I right in assuming that I can move a gas line w/ a female flare freely among them?

Can you buy male flare parts that fit onto barb connections to make it flare-compatible?

This just saved me $150.
 
Amazing-- this sounds like just what I need. I have a mix of Ball/Pin Lock Kegs. So if I buy a set of these, am I right in assuming that I can move a gas line w/ a female flare freely among them?

Can you buy male flare parts that fit onto barb connections to make it flare-compatible?

This just saved me $150.

It is possible, I think, but doubtful you will find that hardware at any HBS on-line or otherwise. I would look to places like McMaster Carr or Foxx Equipment to find such an animal if it exists.

Most likely, you'll be getting some sort of compression to MFL fitting.
 
It is possible, I think, but doubtful you will find that hardware at any HBS on-line or otherwise. I would look to places like McMaster Carr or Foxx Equipment to find such an animal if it exists.

Most likely, you'll be getting some sort of compression to MFL fitting.

It looks like Morebeer might have it...

Flare Fittings | MoreBeer

I'm not quite sure what parts I'd need though....any help?
 
Can you buy male flare parts that fit onto barb connections to make it flare-compatible?

To convert an existing barbed ball/pin lock disconnect you would need to build an adapter using a 1/4"MFL to barb adapter with a very short piece of hose going to the barb on the quick connect. Something like KEG620 or KEG630 depending on your line size.
 
True, but you could easily buy all new disconnects and sell your old ones to avoild messing with a bunch of hose clamps.

Based on this:

...

This just saved me $150.

I was giving the low cost alternative. Ideally he would buy all new MFL disconnects but that would be close to twice as expensive based on morebeers prices.
 
So let me make sure I understand how this works...the gas lines have KEG604 on it (barb w/ a stub on end) that links to the Pin/Ball Lock with the Nut (KEG600) and two washers (KEG602).

Can I use Flares for the Beer Line too?

Beer Lines = 3/16 and Gas Lines = 1/4, right?
 
So let me make sure I understand how this works...the gas lines have KEG604 on it (barb w/ a stub on end) that links to the Pin/Ball Lock with the Nut (KEG600) and two washers (KEG602).

Can I use Flares for the Beer Line too?

Beer Lines = 3/16 and Gas Lines = 1/4, right?

Sometimes gas lines are 5/16", in which case I'd use KEG640(pre assembled nut and barb). If your gas lines are 1/4" or 3/16" use KEG600(nut) + KEG604(barb).

Assuming you are using standard 3/16 beverage line use KEG600(nut) + KEG604(barb) on the liquid line.

If you are using plastic MFL ball/pin lock disconnects (KEG720/730/760/770) you can likely skip the washers since these have a plastic tip on them that should act as a built-in washer. If you are springing for the stainless steel MFL ball locks (KEG732/734) or converting a sankey tap with the adapter kit I linked to in an earlier post you should use the washers since the metal to metal connection is likely to be less than perfect.

Edit: Oh, and some type of clamps over the barbs.
 
3/16 hose+1/4 barb. I had them on my original setup, but I excluded them after getting longer beer lines. No leaking what so ever! Just throwing it out there...
 
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