First time making my own recipe (Hazy IPA)

[finished1]

I am trying to put together a hazy IPA recipe of my own but having a little trouble on some of the steps. Any input would be great. Here is the recipe I have started.

FERMENTABLES

10lbs. Pale 2 row

1 lb Flaked White Wheat

1 lb Flaked Oats

0.5lbs Carapils. ?

HOPS

1.0 oz Centennial 60 min ?

1.0 oz Citra whirlpool 30 min

1.0 oz Galaxy whirlpool 30 min. Temp?

0.5 oz Citra 0 min

0.5 oz Galaxy 0 min

0.5 oz Citra 3-5 day dry hop

0.5 oz Galaxy 3-5 day dry hop

Wharfloc tablet at 5 minutes

2.0 oz orange peel ?

YEAST

Safale US 0-5

The guestion marks are the areas I am not sure of. Any input will help. Suggestions? Replacements? I am trying to aim for a citrus taste and aroma. The recipe builder put this at 7% ABV with OG at 1.68 and FG at 1.23.

Thank everyone for your input.

 

[Jtvann]

If you’re trying to replicate a NEIPA I can suggest a few changes. If you’re just looking to make a hazy looking semi hoppy beer, there’s nothing wrong with what you’ve prepared.

If this were my beer, I would suggest the following changes.

Drop the carapils (optional), your oats and wheat will do the job.

I personally don’t add a 60 minute hop addition. Nothing wrong with adding it though to provide balance.

You could easily double your whirlpool additions and triple your dry hop additions.

If you’re looking for hazy, no need for the whirlfloc. It’ll still haze though if you do use it.

I’d use a different yeast. If insistent on using dry yeast, I’d go with safale 04, making sure to control fermentation temps. If you’re open to a liquid yeast I’d use wyeast 1318.

I wouldn’t use the orange peel at all. The hops will provide the flavor you’re looking for.

When dry hopping, it won’t hurt to do two different rounds of it. If you do only 1 round, it’s important to dry hop at peak fermentation. Don’t wait till it’s near done fermenting. The haziness comes from bio transformation from the yeast interacting with the hops.

Also, the numbers for alcohol percentage are off. I’m assuming you mean 1.068 and 1.023.

1.023 is very high for a final gravity beer in this style. It also does not give you a 7% beer. These numbers would give you a 5.9% beer.

Make sure to mash sufficiently low and pitch enough yeast with temp control to hit a final gravity of 1.015 for a 7% beer ... assuming OG is 1.068

There’s no magic number to tell you. You’ve got to know your system. BeerSmith app will give you good approximations. I’d start in the 152 degree range and would probably be accurate within + or - 2 degrees.


All this said, assuming you’re looking for a neipa style beer, which is what folks are commonly calling hazy IPAs.

There would be absolutely nothing wrong with the beer you planned as is. Maybe just not what you’re expecting.

 

[IslandLizard]

There are quite a few threads on NEIPAs, do a search and read some of them to get more ins and outs, ideas, do's and don'ts.

@Jtvann gave you all good pointers. I don't know where your gravity estimates came from but they aren't right.

It may be the way your recipe builder lists the ingredients, but whirlpool hops come after flameout, and preferably when the wort has cooled down quite a bit from 210F. Many start whirlpooling around 170-180F for 15'-30' then chill to 160-170F add more hops and whirlpool for another 15-30'. Or use any temp or duration in between.

I'd move the 0 minute hops to the first whirlpool, say around 180->170F for 15-20' and the 30' whirlpool to 170->160F for 20-30'. Don't be afraid to use more hops at these lower temps, they add little bittering. 180->170F means start around 180F and let it naturally cool down to 170F during the whirlpool (15-20').

You can, use pretty much any clean bittering hop for your 60' addition. Centennial will work fine, or use Warrior, Magnum, Apollo, etc. After an hour boil there's not much flavor and aroma left of those early hops while your whirlpool and dry hops will drown out pretty much what was left anyway.

If you can, use WY1318, but you'll need to make starter, which is not that difficult. You can use a 1/2 or better yet, 1 gallon clear jug on the counter. The yeast plays a big role in the final characteristics of your NEIPA. Dry S-04 can be used, but it won't be the same. Dry yeast should be rehydrated to the manufacturer's specs before pitching. Aeration/oxygenation at pitching time is important too.

Last but not least, fermentation temp control is important in the beginning. So a cool place or a tub with cold water is probably needed. 68F is a good start until it's abou half done, when you add you first dry hop. Then let the temp rise naturally to around 72-74F (no higher).

Oh, try to limit the amount of air (oxygen) touching your beer once fermentation starts. It causes oxidation and your hop flavor and aroma will deteriorate quickly.

Are you fermenting in a bucket? How are you packaging?

 

[eric19312]

You mentioned this is your first recipe design. Congrats on taking that step and good luck!

Since you are designing your own recipe I suggest over building in order to leave behind a bit of wort/beer when you go from kettle to fermentor and from fermentor to keg/bottling. For example to get 5 gallons finished beer plan to put 5.5 gallons into fermentor--lots of the extra half gallon will be soaked up by dry hops and it is nice to not have to get too greedy with racking and risk pulling a lot of the yeast/hop cake into your keg/bottling bucket. To get 5.5 gallons in fermentor plan to end up with 6 gallons in your kettle after boil and chilling. This overbuilding lets you leave behind some trub (I don't get crazy about this, what settles out easy I leave, rest moves along) and more importantly all those hops. These late addition IPAs have a lot of hops and they soak up a lot of beer. Some people see no issue letting all the kettle hops go into the fermentor but to me it is a whole lot of plant material I'd rather leave behind.

Quick check on brewers friend says 15 pounds of malt will get you 6 gallons of wort in the kettle at end of boil assuming 75% efficiency (ending kettle efficiency).

Have fun and let us know how it turns out.

 

[Morrey]

If you search for HBT member Braufessor, look for his NE IPA thread. His base recipe is nicely done, then you can play with various hops varietals and hop quantities as your own creative design. The timing of hop additions is critical since you want the hop goodness/essence without becoming overly bitter which mid-boil additions may give you. Shoot for the end of boil for the vast majority of your additions.

While there are several good recipe design programs out there, I settled on BeerSmith some time back. A good program will be invaluable to show what your recipe will do in terms of IBUs, gravity and more. I wouldn't consider building a new recipe w/o the aide of BeerSmith.

If you want your NE IPA to have a classic "juicy" look that tends to have a faint orange tint almost resembling grapefruit juice, consider a very small amount of specialty grain for coloration. Again, Braufessor's NEIPA base recipe has been followed by tons of brewers, and almost all express high levels of satisfaction. Not suggesting you copy his recipe A - Z, but the grain bill is hard to beat. W/o some color in a modest amount, the color may otherwise be anemic looking.

Here is one of my NE IPA's as I sample the beginning carb level:

 

[IslandLizard]

If you search for HBT member Braufessor, look for his NE IPA thread. [...]

Funny!
I had no clue which thread you were referring to, until it suddenly dawned onto me, as I was reading one of my favorite threads in a virtually permanent open browser tab: "Northeast" style IPA!!!

So to the OP, @finished1, follow that link above. After reading/skimming the first few pages you may want to skip to the end of the thread and start reading/skimming backwards for the latest updates and discoveries. There's a lot to digest, and there are at least 10 other threads dealing with NEIPAs (pronounced: Neepahs).

 

[Morrey]

Funny!
I had no clue which thread you were referring to, until it suddenly dawned onto me, as I was reading one of my favorite threads in a virtually permanent open browser tab: "Northeast" style IPA!!!

So to the OP, @finished1, follow that link above. After reading/skimming the first few pages you may want to skip to the end of the thread and start reading/skimming backwards for the latest updates and discoveries. There's a lot to digest, and there are at least 10 other threads dealing with NEIPAs (pronounced: Neepahs).

I'm laughing at myself my friend! I printed out this original post and studied that longgg post w/recipe like it was a college course. There is a ton of wisdom in the entire thread and I bet I have refered back to it 25 or more times.

One grain that he suggests and I like in this beer is Honey Malt. At 25 SRM, it gives the beer an ever so slight color influence...probably similar to melanoidin malts. Hop combinations are limitless. Water management (SO4/Cl) can be important in this beer to influence the mouthfeel one is working towards. This is an advanced level beer but well worth the effort to learn the process. The OP's overall brewing skills will soar with this one under their belt.

One last thought @finished1, the citrus influence you are working towards will come from hops, and typically not from citrus peel as may be expected. Think in terms of Blue Moon and how that beer is influenced by orange peel.

Once you get the feel for brewing a beer like this.....the show is on!!!

 

[IslandLizard]

I'm laughing at myself my friend! I printed out this original post and studied that longgg post w/recipe like it was a college course. There is a ton of wisdom in the entire thread and I bet I have refered back to it 25 or more times.

One grain that he suggests and I like in this beer is Honey Malt. At 25 SRM, it gives the beer an ever so slight color influence...probably similar to melanoidin malts. Hop combinations are limitless. Water management (SO4/Cl) can be important in this beer to influence the mouthfeel one is working towards. This is an advanced level beer but well worth the effort to learn the process. The OP's overall brewing skills will soar with this one under their belt.

One last thought @finished1, the citrus influence you are working towards will come from hops, and typically not from citrus peel as may be expected. Think in terms of Blue Moon and how that beer is influenced by orange peel.

That thread is our NEIPA base.

However, I haven't brewed it yet with Honey Malt, been using a bit more complex grain bill I developed last year giving great color and malt complexity:

42.6 %   Golden Promise (Simpsons)          (2.0 SRM)
25.5 %   Maris Otter (Crisp)                (4.0 SRM)
6.4 %    Vienna Malt (Weyermann)            (3.5 SRM)
6.4 %    Munich I (Weyermann)               (7.1 SRM)
6.4 %    Caramel/Crystal Malt C10 (Briess)  (10.0 SRM)
6.4 %    Wheat, Flaked                      (1.6 SRM)
6.4 %    Oats, Flaked                       (1.4 SRM)

Mash at 150F for 60'

Total minerals:
150 ppm Chloride
50 ppm Sulfate
7-10 ppm Mg
(preboil)

The citrus peel idea got me considering it though. Adding some grated fresh orange zest and/or grapefruit zest with the first or second dry hop could add something special to that citrus juice sensation. How much of it? 1/2 - 1 oz? There is a slight bitterness to the zest but I doubt it adds up to 1 IBU, and it's different.

Once you get the feel for brewing a beer like this.....the show is on!!!

That's some truth!

 

[finished1]

Thanks everyone for your input. I would have replied earlier but my notifications was not working. I will read over everyones post and help continue to build on the recipe.