First time all grain

[RNBEERGUY]

so I’m starting an all grain batch any recommendations on water to grain ratio ? Also how much Sparge water this is for a 5 gallon batch ?

 

[mashinary]

Check out this calculator: http://brew365.com/mash_sparge_water_calculator.php

I'm actually brewing right now, and I usually use a ratio of about 1.5 QT to lb of grain.

 

[kh54s10]

Between 1.25 and 1.5 quarts per pound of grain for the mash. How much sparge water is needed is impossible for us to answer. You need to know your boil off rate to determine what your preboil volume needs to be. It will vary by the amount of grain you use, how thick your mash equipment losses. Even temperature and humidity, though that is a very slight change and you usually would not allow for that.

The calculator listed should get you close if you know all the needed input.

 

[grampamark]

As is often the case, the answers to your questions are "it depends".

Are you mashing in one vessel and boiling in another one, or are you mashing and boiling in the same vessel? Have you done a trial run with your heat source and your boil kettle, using water, to determine how much you will lose to boil off in an hour?

For ballpark numbers, try 1.5 qts per pound of grain for strike water. Assume a gallon for grain absorption and a gallon an hour for boil off. If you dump everything from the boil kettle into the fermenter figure half a gallon for trub loss; if you leave the trub in the kettle, figure half a gallon loss in the kettle and another half a gallon trub loss in the fermenter.

As an example:
For a 5 gal batch with a 10 lb grain bill-
15 qts strike water
-4 qts absorption
=11 qts first runnings
-4 qts trub loss
=7 qts
-4 qts boil off
=3 qts
20 qts finished beer
-3 qts
=17 qts sparge water

32 qts total water. Note that the above calculations are not in the order of the brewing process, but show how the volume losses subsequent to the mash are accounted for to determine the needed sparge volume.

You'll have to brew a few batches, keeping track of your actual water loss at each step, to fine tune your setup. As noted, use one of the many available calculators or brewing apps to help you out.

 

[IslandLizard]

If you do BIAB that calculator is not useful, but for mashing in a cooler or kettle, it's excellent! It will give you all your volumes.
1.25 is quite a thick mash, 1.50 is a much looser mash, easier to stir and due to higher volume, easier to keep the temp on target. I use 1.50.

Sparge 2x with equal volume for best sparge efficiency. Drain first runnings completely, add 1/2 sparge water, stir, let rest a few minutes and drain second runnings. Repeat for 3rd runnings.

One thing I must note, the calculator has no entry field to compensate for heat loss while stirring with the lid off (none do).
Due to that initial heat loss, I've found with my 52 quart cooler I have to strike 4-6 degrees F higher than the calculator predicts to get the exact mash temp I want after stirring. If the temp turns out a little high, I stir a minute longer.

 

[kh54s10]

One thing I must note, the calculator has no entry field to compensate for heat loss while stirring with the lid off (none do).
Due to that initial heat loss, I've found with my 52 quart cooler I have to strike 4-6 degrees F higher than the calculator predicts to get the exact mash temp I want after stirring. If the temp turns out a little high, I stir a minute longer.

I use Beersmith and a 10 gallon water cooler mash tun. I use it's strike temperature. I get a little fluctuation due to differing temperatures of grain, ambient and equipment. But, I am usually within 1 degree of target when I have all the grain stirred in. No need to compensate in my setup.

 

[IslandLizard]

I use Beersmith and a 10 gallon water cooler mash tun. I use it's strike temperature. I get a little fluctuation due to differing temperatures of grain, ambient and equipment. But, I am usually within 1 degree of target when I have all the grain stirred in. No need to compensate in my setup.

The round coolers are much deeper and narrower, that makes a big difference in heat loss. I still think there is a substantial heat loss during stirring, especially in cold or windy weather. I may also stir relatively long. Beersmith gives me the same numbers as Brew365, but the latter is a bit easier to tweak on the spot.

I do preheat the tun for a few minutes with strike water that is about 10-12F higher, depending on batch size, leaving me with the extra 4-6 degrees before mixing in the grist. With underletting I know now what temp the water mass needs to be: 10-12F higher than calculated. This is at 1.5 water/grist ratio.
After stirring I lay a doubled up piece of heavy aluminum foil on top of the mash. To take temps midway I just poke the probe through the foil. It's usually spot on +/- 1 °F.

I also do a fair amount of step mashes in the kettle, using the mash tun for lautering after mashout.