First kettle souring experience didn't go so great - to dump or not to dump

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FatDragon

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When I have a question, I tend to share ALL the details, so apologies in advance for the long post.

A week ago I got a pre-wired electric element for cheap off Taobao - the Chinese online marketplace. I discovered upon testing it and trying to stir the water with a metal implement that it zaps the water with electricity. Presumably this is intentional since the package has a warning symbol about not testing the water temp with your fingers, though I initially assumed that was just because you shouldn't touch boiling water with your bare skin.

I did a simple 50/50 pils/wheat mash and gave it a 10 minute boil to kill any bugs. The SG was around 1.022-1.025 - I didn't get too worried about proper reading since it was technically a pre-boil reading. I pre-acidified the ~7.5 gallons of wort step by step with =/>80% Lactic Acid until my crappy (but recently-calibrated - though I'm still inclined to wonder about its reliability) domestic pH meter read 4.45.

I pitched my bugs - a little 100mL bottle of Yakult lacto yogurt drink - and plugged the element into the STC-1000 and set it to 47C, around 117F to stay above the threshold for nasty bugs, with plastic wrap around the lid of the kettle to keep out any extra oxygen. I did no other steps to remove oxygen since I don't have a CO2 system or any dry ice lying around. A couple days later I tested the wort and my pH meter actually read 4.9! The cheap pH strips from the domestic online HBS were tough to read accurately but they certainly didn't read lower than 4.4 and may have been higher. I tried pitching another bottle of Yakult and waited another day. Around this point, someone in another thread of mine suggested my element was probably electrocuting my bugs (doh!) so I unplugged it, plugged in a space heater that I put right next to the kettle, chucked in a final Yakult, and let it ride for three days, during which it was ~37C (~99F) for most of the time.

I tested the wort again today and found it had indeed soured, down to 4.11 according to the meter and an uncertain amount according to the strips (they bottom out at 3.8 and I couldn't tell if it was totally yellow or still had a tinge of green that would put it as high as the 4.1 the meter was reading). Chucked it on the burner and turned on the heating element for a bit of boil assist/bug zapping, and that's where I am now. When it started to roil a bit, some mucusy Yakult-colored stuff started floating up (think the peach/apricot colored Crayola crayons we all used as kids to color the skin tone of a white person) that went right through the sieve when I tried to strain it out (with the element unplugged). The wort doesn't have any particular unusual smell - just a bit more bready than usual - and I haven't tasted it yet.

I'm not super worried about making a crappy beer, since I can always dump it after fermentation if that's the case, and I'm likewise unworried about it not being sour enough since I can add lactic acid to cheat my way to a reasonable level. The biggest question is: is there any way this wort/beer might be dangerous to consume? I believe botulinum toxin is the one that people get worried about, since you can kill the bugs but the poison poop sticks around. On the one hand, I don't want to risk my/someone else's health over $10 of ingredients and a couple hours of time invested. On the other hand, I don't want to pointlessly dump a batch of beer if there's nothing to worry about. Any advice?

tl;dr - long, lowish-temperature kettle sour, safe to drink or potentially toxic?
 
Not sure why your pH hasn't dropped lower, but i'd suspect calibration on your tester is off. Don't use strips.
I always boil after the souring. That will kill the bad stuff.
& i'm not sure if i agree that a heating element will "electrocute bugs".
 
It's possible that the set temperature of 47C/117F is slightly outside the active band for the LAB strains in play. I don't have the active temperature bands memorized but I believe most are active between 90-110F. I had to re pitch bacteria on my most recent kettle souring experiment from what I believe is a similar issue.
Another thing to consider is that longer durations for kettle souring can result in substantial oxidation and long term shelf stability issues -- especially if you have no means for purging your souring vessel. Warm wort is especially vulnerable to oxidation.
I doubt botulism is a concern...pathogenic bacteria have an extremely narrow window to reproduce.
 
Not sure why your pH hasn't dropped lower, but i'd suspect calibration on your tester is off. Don't use strips.
I always boil after the souring. That will kill the bad stuff.
& i'm not sure if i agree that a heating element will "electrocute bugs".

The strips are a backup. The pH meter is a cheap Chinese-produced model that I calibrated with calibration solution before its first use, but it couldn't match up with both of the solutions included with the meter, if one was matched up, the other one was off, so I'm not sure how trustworthy it is. Not to mention it read 4.45 at the initial pre-acidifying and 4.9 at the first post-pitch test a couple days later.

I suspect most homebrewers' heating elements don't electrocute anything unless the wiring's messed up, but this one definitely gave me a shock when I stirred the water I was testing it on with a metal implement, so if lacto is killed by electricity, I suspect that was happening. Either way, I boiled after souring and will probably have to add some more lactic acid after fermentation, but the toxin-producing microbes are the real concern, since killing them doesn't nullify the toxins they've produced...
 
It's possible that the set temperature of 47C/117F is slightly outside the active band for the LAB strains in play. I don't have the active temperature bands memorized but I believe most are active between 90-110F. ......

This is something else I thought of & should have mentioned.
I usually do 100-110* for my kettle sours.
 
It's possible that the set temperature of 47C/117F is slightly outside the active band for the LAB strains in play. I don't have the active temperature bands memorized but I believe most are active between 90-110F. I had to re pitch bacteria on my most recent kettle souring experiment from what I believe is a similar issue.
Another thing to consider is that longer durations for kettle souring can result in substantial oxidation and long term shelf stability issues -- especially if you have no means for purging your souring vessel. Warm wort is especially vulnerable to oxidation.
I doubt botulism is a concern...pathogenic bacteria have an extremely narrow window to reproduce.

It's possible the temp was too high - I assume Yakult doesn't have a wide range of lacto strains so I might have been running the temp too high, but the possibility that I zapped them is there as well since the cheap heating element I was using definitely imparts a charge to the water/wort. I'll keep going with this brew as you're probably right that pathogenic bacteria are unlikely to be an issue (especially if I really was electrocuting the wort with the element before I switched to the space heater), though with the question of oxidation I won't let my hopes get too high.

Looks like it's time to plan a sure-thing brew for my next brewday - four questionable brews in a row is a sign that it's time to back off and get back to the basics for a little while.
 
I'd bet on your kettle souring temps to be a bit high. L Plantarum is a strain I use and it is fine 75-90F. But boiling should kill any harmful microbes you may encounter.
 
I was the one who suggested he may be electrocuting his bugs. It was actually a tongue in cheek comment as I knew very little about brewing bugs and nothing about kettle souring before his electrical issue came up. I am intrigued with the process though and may have to have a go at it myself someday.

I doubt electrocution is a reliable method of sterilizing a solution. I may be wrong...
 
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