First ever home brew

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Smillz1521

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This past weekend I did my first home brew and started with 5 gallons of Bavarian Hefeweizen from Northern Brewer. I did invest in an immersion wort chiller before starting and got a faucet converter from Home Depot so I could hook the wort chiller to the kitchen sink. Overall took maybe 10 mins to cool the 2.5 gallon partial boil down to 68 degrees. Highly recommend using that instead of ever doing an ice bath. I didn’t take any gravity readings just wanted to focus on the cook and trust that if I followed directions it should turn out ok. It’s about 32 hours after pitching the yeast and so far everything looks ok.
 

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Congrats!

PS: always take gravity readings. That's how you know it's done fermenting and know the actual alcohol level rather than relying on the range in the kit.
 
Valid point. I got caught up in making sure everything was thoroughly sanitized that I crossed it off as not a big deal. I guess for practice I can go through it on bottling day and see what that shows.
 
Congrats on starting your 1st brew.

Now you need to finish it. If you wait until bottling day without ever taking a specific gravity, you are playing with a potential explosive outcome. There is no way to be certain that your brew is done fermenting without a gravity reading.

Here's a reader's digest:
SG (Specific gravity) generic term for density as compared to pure water. Sugar>water>alcohol. Sugar is denser, than water reads higher. Alcohol is less dense than water ,reads lower.
OG (original gravity) unfermented beer, (day 0) - high sugar.
FG (final gravity) fully fermented beer (day ?) - alcohol and unfermentable sugars.

Can you brew without a hydrometer? Yes. But you are only guessing when your beer beer is complete. A miscalculation and bottling too soon can lead to fermentation in a sealed glass resulting in beer-grenades. Using airlock bubbles or empiric dates can have unexpected consequences.

Hydrometers are inexpensive. Buy it, learn it, use it!
 
Valid point. I got caught up in making sure everything was thoroughly sanitized that I crossed it off as not a big deal. I guess for practice I can go through it on bottling day and see what that shows.

When you brew with an extract kit and especially when your kit is a partial boil, use the kit's predicted OG and skip the hydrometer reading. It is very difficult to get proper mixing of the concentrated wort and the top off water. Many new brewers get anxious because their hydrometer shows that their beer is really weak or really strong when in reality it is simply poor mixing that throws the hydrometer reading off. You should always use the hydrometer to see that the beer is done fermenting before you commit it to bottles. Your kit will probably have an estimated final gravity (FG) and you need to check that your reading is near that and stable in a 3 day period.
 
Wow! Looking good. I think it was a good idea to focus on what you did focus on. You're not kidding about the wort chiller; that thing is so valuable. It's a little tougher to breeze into that 68°F pitching temp in the summer unless you live in a perpetually cold area. When/if the water stays relatively warm, throw 2.5-3 gallons of water into the freezer until just above freezing to compensate.
Getting a correct OG for extract simply requires proper stirring.
As has been mentioned, take gravity readings, on separate days, before bottling. If you leave the beer for two weeks, as a rule for now, you'll be good.
 
When you brew with an extract kit and especially when your kit is a partial boil, use the kit's predicted OG and skip the hydrometer reading. It is very difficult to get proper mixing of the concentrated wort and the top off water.

It is true that if you partial boil and top with water you need to mix it very well to get an accurate reading; however, I wouldn't use that as an excuse to tell you to skip the hydrometer reading. Outside of being lazy I don't see a good reason to skip it. It's part of the process of brewing, get used to it.

For what it's worth, I have skipped taking a reading (somehow managed to forget) more than once which brings me to my next point...create a check list of things to do :)

ps: YES, you can skip it by taking hydrometer readings approximately two weeks post fermentation. You would take a reading on one day, wait two days, take another reading. If those readings did not change you are generally safe to package the beer (bottle, keg, can). Of course you will only have an estimate as to the alcohol content; you will not have an accurate ABV as you have no accurate reading pre fermentation.
 
It is true that if you partial boil and top with water you need to mix it very well to get an accurate reading; however, I wouldn't use that as an excuse to tell you to skip the hydrometer reading. Outside of being lazy I don't see a good reason to skip it. It's part of the process of brewing, get used to it.

For what it's worth, I have skipped taking a reading (somehow managed to forget) more than once which brings me to my next point...create a check list of things to do :)

ps: YES, you can skip it by taking hydrometer readings approximately two weeks post fermentation. You would take a reading on one day, wait two days, take another reading. If those readings did not change you are generally safe to package the beer (bottle, keg, can). Of course you will only have an estimate as to the alcohol content; you will not have an accurate ABV as you have no accurate reading pre fermentation.


So here's my newbie question....what's the best way to get an FG reading while beer is still in the carboy without initially transferring it to a bottling bucket? Do you siphon off what you'd need or is there another way that's easier, like a large eyedropper?
 
So here's my newbie question....what's the best way to get an FG reading while beer is still in the carboy without initially transferring it to a bottling bucket? Do you siphon off what you'd need or is there another way that's easier, like a large eyedropper?

Pre fermentation
When I move the wort to the carboy, I would add water, mix well, and either siphon off or pour off some. Siphon is the easiest and obviously the least messy of the two options.

Post fermentation
Siphon for sure unless you have a spigot. You need to reduce oxygen exposure, so you have to be careful to not mix anything up and to not leave the airlock off for any longer than it needs to be. You will of course want to sanitize your siphon prior to dropping it into the beer.

ps: I no longer have this issue as I use fermenters with spigots.
 
So here's my newbie question....what's the best way to get an FG reading while beer is still in the carboy without initially transferring it to a bottling bucket? Do you siphon off what you'd need or is there another way that's easier, like a large eyedropper?

large eyedropper = Turkey baster

I started off using a sanitized turkey baster. Now I use a wine thief.
 
+1 on the two above.

The eye dropper/turkey baster (sanitized) will work with the plastic test jar. Yeah, oxygen is bad; but something like taking a gravity reading, I don't think it's that big of deal starting off and does minimal harm.

I may be in the minority here. I use a plastic fermenter (7.9 gallons) and just put the sanitized hydrometer in there, carefully, for a FG reading. I do three weeks in the fermenter and just one FG reading to ensure it's reached the recipe's FG. I do not recommend this as a best practice.

If you enjoy the glass carboys, I would get a harness for it or use a milk crate to transport. I wouldn't move it otherwise.
 
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OK, be careful, it is a diastetic strain. It will continue to ferment very slowly in the bottle if you bottle to early.

I've noticed that so far in fermentation. I've seen videos where it seems like the bubbler goes crazy for some brewers, but this one is very constant, almost like clockwork every 2 seconds, bubble.
 
If you didn’t take any OG readings, I wouldn’t worry about FG readings. In fact, the first few brews I did, I never took readings. More interested in process and sanitation. I usually just left it 2-3 weeks.

For carboy, a wine thief is your best tool for taking gravity readings. Do you have a hydrometer and graduated cylinder? You can get a kit that has all that stuff including the wine thief.
 
If you didn’t take any OG readings, I wouldn’t worry about FG readings. In fact, the first few brews I did, I never took readings. More interested in process and sanitation. I usually just left it 2-3 weeks.

For carboy, a wine thief is your best tool for taking gravity readings. Do you have a hydrometer and graduated cylinder? You can get a kit that has all that stuff including the wine thief.
Not with a yeast like this. This one wakes sometimes up in the bottle. That's a real issue, I think that's one of the worst yeasts one could choose for a beginner's kit, obviously not ops fault.
 
Alright so update. To your point Miraculix my wife picked the kit out and honestly at this point in my journey I don’t have a clue about yeast strains any more than she does.

Haven’t touched or checked on the beer in 3 days since I can hear the bubbler going. Did a spot check today and I think so far so good. I was slightly concerned that area of white foam in the middle was the start of a pellicle but it honestly looks like the normal head to a good beer. It doesn’t look infected and I’m not too worried about it but like my original post I could be wrong.
 

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It’s been 5 days after pitching the yeast and fermentation looks to be about done. To everyone’s suggestions I have a wine thief and hydrometer coming on Monday/Tuesday. Right now there’s very little bubbler activity, and the krausen has minimized. Figure I’ll wait out til Wed/Thurs for an FG reading then test again Sat.

If I were to get FG readings around 1.008 - 1.01 during the first test is that safe to assume we’re ready to rack or is it best practice to always take separate FG readings a few days apart?
 
It’s been 5 days after pitching the yeast and fermentation looks to be about done. To everyone’s suggestions I have a wine thief and hydrometer coming on Monday/Tuesday. Right now there’s very little bubbler activity, and the krausen has minimized. Figure I’ll wait out til Wed/Thurs for an FG reading then test again Sat.

If I were to get FG readings around 1.008 - 1.01 during the first test is that safe to assume we’re ready to rack or is it best practice to always take separate FG readings a few days apart?
Tbh, i never take fg readings prior to bottling. I know when my yeasts are about done, add two more days for safety and cleanup and then into the bottle it goes. When bottling I take a sample to take a final reading and to taste it, but that's it. I don't like to open the fermenter before bottling.

I end up with maximum twelve days in the fermenter, some lower gravity beers are even bottled after five days. Usually I keep it for eight to ten days. Talking about room temperature ales around 1.05og.
 
It’s been 5 days after pitching the yeast and fermentation looks to be about done. To everyone’s suggestions I have a wine thief and hydrometer coming on Monday/Tuesday. Right now there’s very little bubbler activity, and the krausen has minimized. Figure I’ll wait out til Wed/Thurs for an FG reading then test again Sat.

If I were to get FG readings around 1.008 - 1.01 during the first test is that safe to assume we’re ready to rack or is it best practice to always take separate FG readings a few days apart?


To save yourself the headache just wait two weeks, take a reading, wait two days, take another, and then bottle. You could just let it run three weeks and bottle as-is...you'd probably be fine. But what's the point of doing something if you are not going to do it right...at least the first couple of times :)
 
To save yourself the headache just wait two weeks, take a reading, wait two days, take another, and then bottle. You could just let it run three weeks and bottle as-is...you'd probably be fine. But what's the point of doing something if you are not going to do it right...at least the first couple of times :)
Much too long. Depending on the fermenter and how he takes samples, this would risk oxidation, loss of hop flavour and or infection.

Normal gravity and normal yeast is done after two weeks. Just bottle it directly then. Take one final reading for your notes and that's it.
 
Much too long. Depending on the fermenter and how he takes samples, this would risk oxidation, loss of hop flavour and or infection.

Normal gravity and normal yeast is done after two weeks. Just bottle it directly then. Take one final reading for your notes and that's it.

How can it oxidize if it's not exposed to oxygen? Same goes for infection. It won't get infected unless it's given an opportunity to, and leaving it in the fermenter for one or two or three more weeks isn't going to magically allow air and buggies to get in.

Also, remember that the OP is making a hefe, not a DDH IPA, so he's quite safe in regards to concern of hop flavor. To that end, I am not concerned for him.

You are correct that it will almost certainly be done fermenting in two weeks; therefore, you can certainly bottle without the need to take a reading, wait x# of days, take another reading and then bottling. I do that all the time unless I have adjuncts added in such as fruit...that completely changes things.

Anyways, I am trying to suggest the proper method to the OP rather than the corner-cutting method that I also use. They should get the process down as it should be before they decide which corners to cut.
 
How can it oxidize if it's not exposed to oxygen? Same goes for infection. It won't get infected unless it's given an opportunity to, and leaving it in the fermenter for one or two or three more weeks isn't going to magically allow air and buggies to get in.

Also, remember that the OP is making a hefe, not a DDH IPA, so he's quite safe in regards to concern of hop flavor. To that end, I am not concerned for him.

You are correct that it will almost certainly be done fermenting in two weeks; therefore, you can certainly bottle without the need to take a reading, wait x# of days, take another reading and then bottling. I do that all the time unless I have adjuncts added in such as fruit...that completely changes things.

Anyways, I am trying to suggest the proper method to the OP rather than the corner-cutting method that I also use. They should get the process down as it should be before they decide which corners to cut.
As I said, it depends on the fermenter and the method of extracting samples. If we are talking about a normal bucket with a lid that is not air tight, everything I said is valid.

However I forgot that he uses wb06. In this case, we are not talking about a normal yeast so being extra cautious is recommended. I would just bottle after three to four weeks, without taking a previous sample, if we are talking about the leaky bucket type of fermenter. If it's possible to extract samples without opening the fermenter, you could take one weekly, starting at ten days in or something like that and then act according to the results.
 
Bottled 5 gallons today. Took my hydrometer readings the last 2 days and they remained unchanged. Gave a little taste and so far it’s much better than I thought it would be. 2 more weeks until the real test.
 
Bottled 5 gallons today. Took my hydrometer readings the last 2 days and they remained unchanged. Gave a little taste and so far it’s much better than I thought it would be. 2 more weeks until the real test.

And if it is "bad" then leave the bottles in a dark area somewhere and pop a bottle once per week or so. You'd be surprised how "bad" beers can improve simply with time.
 
And if it is "bad" then leave the bottles in a dark area somewhere and pop a bottle once per week or so. You'd be surprised how "bad" beers can improve simply with time.

It's actually pretty damn good even when warm/uncarbonated. I had limited expectations going into a first home brew with an extract kit, but I guess they're designed nowadays to be pretty foolproof. Can't wait to try it finished.
 
Bottled 5 gallons today. Took my hydrometer readings the last 2 days and they remained unchanged. Gave a little taste and so far it’s much better than I thought it would be. 2 more weeks until the real test.
What was your final gravity?

Btw. The yeast you used is a Belgian diastetic yeast strain which has nothing to do with a Bavarian Hefeweizen, it amazes me every time I see a big company like Northern brewer mislabeling their products for whatever reasons.... Probably to boost sales.

Your beer will probably be nice but will be more like a Belgian Wit beer. Not a bad thing, just unfair from a customer perspective who actually expects to get a Bavarian wheat beer kit if the label says so.
 
Welcome to homebrewing! I started a year ago. If you are anything like me you will constantly be planning your next brew day. I bought a couple extra fermenting buckets and usually have a beer in the fermentor and a beers conditioning in bottles at all times. Made about 10 beers my first year. Enjoy!
 
What was your final gravity?

Btw. The yeast you used is a Belgian diastetic yeast strain which has nothing to do with a Bavarian Hefeweizen, it amazes me every time I see a big company like Northern brewer mislabeling their products for whatever reasons.... Probably to boost sales.

Your beer will probably be nice but will be more like a Belgian Wit beer. Not a bad thing, just unfair from a customer perspective who actually expects to get a Bavarian wheat beer kit if the label says so.

Final FG was 1.011 which is right where I expected it to be. Since this was an intro kit I'm kinda stuck with what they provide. After fermentation I stopped by a brew shop around me for the first time and talked to the guys there for about a half hour. They have extract kits there and will be able to recommend what goes best with what (including starting their own yeast cultures).

The little taste I had yesterday actually tasted pretty damn close to what a wheat beer should taste like...almost like drinking fresh bread.
 
Final FG was 1.011 which is right where I expected it to be. Since this was an intro kit I'm kinda stuck with what they provide. After fermentation I stopped by a brew shop around me for the first time and talked to the guys there for about a half hour. They have extract kits there and will be able to recommend what goes best with what (including starting their own yeast cultures).

The little taste I had yesterday actually tasted pretty damn close to what a wheat beer should taste like...almost like drinking fresh bread.
1.011 might still get lower in the bottle slooooooowly, so don't be surprised when you'll get gushers in a few weeks. It won't happen over night, so just make sure to have one once in a while to check if the carbonation level increases with time.
 
Congratulations! You made beer and you like it, that's all that's important.

You have a lot to learn. You will make good beer, great beer, and some, well, not so good but, you'll get to making at least good beer consistently. We have all been there.

Have fun. Experiment. Make what you enjoy.

All the Best,
D. White
 
A little late on the update but this beer turned out really good and I’m very happy with my first brew. The batch made 2 24 bottle cases and the first case was bottle conditioned 2 weeks. The 2nd one will be 3 weeks just to see if there’s a difference.
 

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