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Measuring out small bits of sugar is tedious, and depending on how you do it ( weight or by measuring instrument) accurate or not. Otherwise it's the expensive carb drops, which is what I started with.

Batch priming is figuring how much sugar you'll need, boiling, cooling, and then adding to the bottling bucket. More simple, quicker, and cheaper.
 
Yeah like the prime sugar calculator? Basically asked using what gallons then what ur temp got the highest and tells u so many oz of prime sugar


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Adding the sugar to the carbon may or may not equally disperse. Likely not even, and at its worst can produce bottle bombs.
 
Yes.

I really like the one from Northern Brewer as it shows weights/volumes and plenty of choices.
 
So I should go with adding the prime sugar to the bucket/Carboy and shake lightly and then bottle? Well first use the prime sugar calculator? It's going to be around 5.5oz of prime sugar, basically experimented with the 5 gallons and used 75 degrees as the highest and says 5.5 Oz of prime sugar.


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Adding tablets to each bottle I know would get expansive and could be bottle bombs, I've done my research on that and the prime sugar is the best choice for me right now. I will eventually get into kegging


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The priming tablets are nice, and won't cause bottle bombs if used correctly. They are just expensive.

Adding sugars to a large volume is what may give inconsistencies and cause bottle bombs. Adding it prior to transfer allows it to swirls around and mix fairly well, though I still give it a gentle stirs make sure it's fairly even.
 
I'd like to get into legging myself. Bottling and cleaning is tedious. But that requires a lot too.
 
Yeah I'll defiantly be gently storing the prime sugar to make sure it gets equalized..


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Damn apple phones haha yes it is, I meant stir ing haha


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Gotta hate the auto correct at times. I always posted buttering instead of bittering, among many others.
 
I don't use my iPhone much, but I'm trying to get used to the iPad as SWMBO kicks me off of the Mac at times such as now.
 
I gave up on trying to siphon directly from the carboy into my bottling wand. Instead, I use my brew kettle as a bottling bucket. I start the beer siphoning into it, then add the priming sugar as simple syrup.

That way, I'm not trying to screw around with a siphon and a bottling wand at the same time. And I'm not trying to mix sugar into my carboy primary without stirring up the trub...

Of course, I have a dip tube in my brew kettle that leaves less than half a cup of liquid; that helps considerably. I whirlpool the beer gently before I start bottling, and the little bit of trub that was sucked through the siphon gets left behind in the middle of the kettle.
 
I love my bottling wand, which I attached to my bottling bucket. It ensures even filling between bottles. And it keeps it from making as much of a mess, though it's not perfect.
 
So how do I bottle if I have a glass Carboy? :S


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What if I have a glass Carboy and not a bucket?/: how would I bottle my beer?


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You should be able to attach a wand to the end of the siphon tube. just keep the end of the tube below the level of the carboy to continue the siphon. I would definitely recommend the bottling wand. A bottling bucket is a very helpful addition, as well, and it's not that expensive.
 
What if I have a glass Carboy and not a bucket?/: how would I bottle my beer?


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You can bottle just fine by hooking your bottling wand up to your racking cane, with a length of tubing or an auto-siphon in between. But I consider it a pain to make sure the end of the cane stays in the beer all the way through the process, without sucking in air or trub somewhere down the line.

I stick the racking cane through a stopper, to keep it at the proper depth. I used to have trouble with the stopper blocking air and interrupting the siphon, until I drilled four small holes in it.

Also, just slipping a piece of tubing over the siphon will make the beer cavitate as it goes from the smaller diameter of the racking cane to the larger diameter of the tubing, and your tubing will stay full of air that the beer just trickles through.

I don't know how others deal with that problem. I get around it by using tubing that's the same outside diameter as the racking cane, and using a small piece of larger tubing as a coupling. If the connection isn't airtight, I just wrap it with some sort of tape.
 
For your first brew day, just make sure you have a quality Flux Capacitor. I can't imagine a successful brew day without a high end Flux Capacitor.
 
A what ??? And can I not just use a auto siphon tube to bottle? When the bottle gets full clamp the hose then take clamp off for next?


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A what ??? And can I not just use a auto siphon tube to bottle? When the bottle gets full clamp the hose then take clamp off for next?


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I was just messing with you. A Flux Capacitor is the thing they use in Back to the Future to turn the Delorean into a time machine. Bad joke, sorry. You'll be fine, but I would absolutely spend the $5 - $10 to buy or make a bottling bucket sometime between brew day and bottling day.
 
For your first brew day, just make sure you have a quality Flux Capacitor. I can't imagine a successful brew day without a high end Flux Capacitor.

Your average household stove can't generate the necessary 1.21 gigawatts to make that a sound investment. Unless you can drop the cash on a Mr. Fusion to go with it, don't bother.
 
All a bottling bucket is it has a spigot on it correct? Ah I can defently get one thenz


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Your average household stove can't generate the necessary 1.21 gigawatts to make that a sound investment. Unless you can drop the cash on a Mr. Fusion to go with it, don't bother.

1.21 gigawatts?!?!?!?!

1-21-gigawatts-o.gif
 
All a bottling bucket is it has a spigot on it correct? Ah I can defently get one thenz


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Yes. My bottling bucket is just an Ale Pale, just like the one I use for fermenting, except I bored a hole near the bottom put a plastic spigot on it.
 
Another question, so when the fermentation stops completely then I bottle and put them in the fridge will any more sediment drop in the bottles..?


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After the beer is in the bottles (with some priming sugar added), leave them at room temperature for a few weeks before putting them in the fridge. You will have dormant yeast in the bottles as sediment.


Sent from here, because that's where I am.
 
I will have sediment if I put them in the fridge before letting them sit at room temperature? Or the sediment will drop if I leave them at room temp?...


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I will have sediment if I put them in the fridge before letting them sit at room temperature? Or the sediment will drop if I leave them at room temp?...


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You will have sediment at the bottom of the bottle no matter what. You need to let them sit at room temperature for a while or you will have no carbonation. I suggest about 4 weeks. The carbonation comes from yeast eating the priming sugar, which causes the yeast to multiply, which causes dormant yeast to drop to the bottom of the bottle. There is no way to avoid having yeast sediment in the bottle if you are naturally carbonating the beer...or at least no way that I know of.
 
Oh I gotcha.. Well hmm so when someone drinks my beer and take that last drip of the beer they will have that nasty taste ?/:


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Oh I gotcha.. Well hmm so when someone drinks my beer and take that last drip of the beer they will have that nasty taste ?/:


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Homebrew, in my opinion, should never be drank from the bottle. Poured into a glass, and you can stop the pour as you see the yeast about to enter the equation. I feel the same about most commercial craft beer.
 
Ah.. I was thinking to just pour it in a glass. Okay thanks:)


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And by the way, while I am no long time veteran like some of the people on this forum, I can say that I have wished that I had let every beer I've brewed so far sit in the bottle at room temperature longer than what I did.
 
Ah I'm so excited! After work tomorrow I'll be heading to my local brew store :)


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My serious first brew piece of advice - when they tell you to cool your wort before pitching the yeast, they are not joking. I would make sure you are under 70 degrees before that yeast touches wort.
 
Yeah hot can kill the yeast, it is a living organism :) gotta treat it like it is!


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Obviously with wine we didn't boil it, but we did (rehydrate) the yeast. Which the temp was 100-106* and taking that temps tier over could kill the yeast from the heat.


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Today is the day :) I have $90 out of my check I get to go spend on brewing :) now the hard part, waiting for this day to be over!!


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