First brew - Question about secondary and fermentation

[ozpt]

Hello,

I just started brewing, for the first time, with a Brewferm Gold kit.
Followed the instructions and changed the beer into another clean container after 10 days in primary fermentation.
Wen i transferd to the second fermentator the beer was fermenting, and slowly decreased... afeter 3 days the water level in the airlock was the same.
The hydrometer reading is at 1.020 for about 6 days. In 2 days i will take another reading.

My question is: in 2 days, i will reach 1 week in secondary. Should i bottle or wait 1 more week to finish clarification?

Thanks in advance

Best regards,
Oz

 

[jro238]

First, I would always wait for my beer to finish fermenting before even thinking about moving it to a secondary (I also don't use secondaries unless fruit/oak/stuff like that is involved).
Second, it's up to you. It sounds like you would be fine to bottle. Don't forget that the beer will clarify a decent amount in the bottle. If you want it to settle out more and think it's really cloudy now then give it another week then bottle.

 

[jrgtr42]

Next time, think again before secondary. Current thinking is that unless you're bulk aging for some reason (sour, wood, fruit/spices, etc) in most cases a secondary is not needed. Just leave the beer in primary until finished, and rack to bottling bucket from there.
Lagers are different, they do need it because of the extended aging time, but if you're looking at a month or 2, it's not a problem to leave it be.

 

[Puddlethumper]

Hello,

I just started brewing, for the first time, with a Brewferm Gold kit.

The hydrometer reading is at 1.020 for about 6 days. In 2 days i will take another reading.

My question is: in 2 days, i will reach 1 week in secondary. Should i bottle or wait 1 more week to finish clarification?

Welcome to the hobby and it sounds like you are off to a great start!

Keep a close eye on that gravity reading. 1.020 may be a little high and the beer might not be done fermenting yet. Let it ride until it settles down and you get three identical readings three days in a row. Unless the fermentation has gotten stuck due to cold temps or something the beer will probably be done. I find that most of my beers are finished at about 1.010 - 1.012 unless it was a really high gravity beer to start.

+1 on not moving to secondary until fermentation is completely done. But you need to be aware that there are two differing opinions on the use of secondary fermenters. Many on this forum advocate against secondary fermenters and they will argue some very good rationale for their point. At the risk of starting a pi** fight on the topic, I will tell you there are a number of very good brewers who use secondaries most of the time, including a couple of professional brewers that I know. I use a secondary for most beers but only after fermentation is done. My beers are clear and there is a minimum of crud in the bottom of the bottles.

You can go either way without hurting the outcome, but be aware that there are two differing opinions on this topic.

 

[BigFloyd]

Many on this forum advocate against secondary fermenters and they will argue some very good rationale for their point. At the risk of starting a pi** fight on the topic, I will tell you there are a number of very good brewers who use secondaries most of the time, including a couple of professional brewers that I know.

Secondaries certainly have their place. Dry hopping, adding fruit. It's a shame that there are still instructions out there that tell folks who don't know any better to transfer every batch to one after just one week primary.

Or, you can fill that pretty glass jug up with spare pocket change and buy more useful brew gear (like a fermentation fridge and controller) with all that coin.

 

[ozpt]

Hello guys, thank you for all the answers.
Because it was my first brew i was doing like the instructions said.
And they said to move to secundary fermentation, to clarify, before fermentation has been done.
Since i am not in a rush, i will let to finish clarification
I will have your tips in consideration in my next brew.

Unce again thanks

 

[ssyfritt]

If you are naturally carbonating your brew in bottles, I wouldn't worry about clear beer any way. It will always be cloudy if you're naturally carbonating. If you are going to keg and force carbonate then I would absolutely recommend a secondary and, depending on the type of beer, adding Irish moss to the boil. If not, no need to use a secondary.

Cheers!

 

[BigFloyd]

If you are naturally carbonating your brew in bottles, I wouldn't worry about clear beer any way. It will always be cloudy if you're naturally carbonating.

I'm not sure where you got the idea that bottle-carbed homebrew will always be cloudy. That's not at all correct. If the follow the right steps, bottled can be nice and clear with a minimal amount of yeast trub in the bottom that can be left there if you pour correctly.

If you are going to keg and force carbonate then I would absolutely recommend a secondary and, depending on the type of beer, adding Irish moss to the boil. If not, no need to use a secondary.

Cheers!

I keg and force carb about 2/3rd of my batches and don't secondary any of them. If your process is good, you need not secondary to get wonderfully clear brew.

 

[m_stodd]

Hello guys, thank you for all the answers.
Because it was my first brew i was doing like the instructions said.
And they said to move to secundary fermentation, to clarify, before fermentation has been done.
Since i am not in a rush, i will let to finish clarification
I will have your tips in consideration in my next brew.

Unce again thanks

Out of curiosity, did your beer kit come with an equipment kit? Seems like this is how home brew shops try to sell fermenters, especially glass carboys.

 

[brewsnthelou]

Hello guys, thank you for all the answers. Because it was my first brew i was doing like the instructions said. And they said to move to secundary fermentation, to clarify, before fermentation has been done. Since i am not in a rush, i will let to finish clarification I will have your tips in consideration in my next brew. Unce again thanks

I've been extract brewing for a couple years... I always rack to secondary now just because I noticed them being more clear and honestly better flavor. Also, and I'll probably be hung up by my boot straps for this one, I never check my gravity readings.. It's not doing what the pros tell ya but I just follow the kits and do primary for 7 days, rack to secondary and then follow the instructions but usually add a week/two. Again, not saying I'm the 'right' way, I just do what works for me. Cheers

 

[ozpt]

Out of curiosity, did your beer kit come with an equipment kit? Seems like this is how home brew shops try to sell fermenters, especially glass carboys.

Yes, I bought a equipment kit for brewing. Here is a screenshot with all my equipment: http://www.brewferm.be/img/deluxe.jpg

 

[Puddlethumper]

If you are naturally carbonating your brew in bottles, I wouldn't worry about clear beer any way. It will always be cloudy if you're naturally carbonating. .

I don't want to offend, but quite frankly, there isn't anything I've read on this forum with which I'd find more disagreement.

I am no expert on kegging but I have bottle carbonated from the beginning, and I have turned out many batches of beer that are easily as clear as the beer you buy off the shelf in the liquor store. From my experience the clarity of finished beer has much less to do with your choice of carbonation methods than it has to do with your process.

I use a secondary on almost every batch. I move the beer to secondary after final gravity is reached. I don't care if that is 5 days after yeast pitch or 25 days after. Check for gravity readings and when they have stabilized you can move the beer.

Let things settle for a week or two and let the beer get a little warmer. This will do two things: 1) any fermentation left to be done will be facilitated by the warmer temp, and 2) any yeast cells, pieces of hops, etc, still floating around will completely settle out. Now when you rack the beer to the bottling bucket you'll have a really clear finished product that has completely finished the fermentation and you won't have any bottle bombs. The tiny amount of trub left will settle to the bottom of your bottling bucket and won't end up in your bottles.

I am considering switching to the keg. But the reason for the keg has absolutely nothing to do with the quality or appearance of my beer. The reason for kegging, to me, is simply a matter of convenience and work. It is much easier to clean and sanitize one vessel per 5 gal. batch than it is to clean and sanitize 50 or more.

 

[BigFloyd]

Yes, I bought a equipment kit for brewing. Here is a screenshot with all my equipment: http://www.brewferm.be/img/deluxe.jpg

I see no secondary in that pic, just a fermenter bucket and bottling bucket.

 

[ozpt]

I see no secondary in that pic, just a fermenter bucket and bottling bucket.

In the Brewferm recipe, only said to move to a cleane container with an airlock.
And since the tow buckets are the same, i just transfered the beer to another sanitized container.