First BIAB try.. Didn't turn out too well.

[HeavyBrew]

I brewed my first AG batch using the biab method with the teabag sparging method. I used 3 gal water to 9.5lbs of grain and hit my mash temp of 152-3. Stirred it up a few times during the 60 min mash, it seemed to be holding temp pretty well. I had 4 gal of sparge water and heated that up to 170 and put the grain bag in for 10 min. I did a full boil, finished the batch and put it into my fermenter to find out I had about 5.5 gal or so compared to 5 gal I should of had. I didnt really know for sure how much the grain was gonna absorb. Anyway my batch was supposed to be 75% eff. and a OG of 1.053. I wound up at about 1.033. Pretty disappointed to say the least. I know I over shot the batch size but it shouldn't have been that low?!

Was a 60 min mash long enough?

 

[SumnerH]

Was a 60 min mash long enough?

I don't know. Did you test for conversion? If not, you have no way of knowing.

What grains were in the mash?

Your efficiency was definitely low even with the 5.5 gallon final result; you got about 51% efficiency (after adjusting for the 5.5 gallon final volume), which is way too low for BiaB if you wait for full conversion and don't lose massive efficiency somewhere else in the process.

 

[HeavyBrew]

I didnt test for conversion. Is that the iodine test? I guess I thought an hour would have been long enough. What do you do to test for conversion? Thanks.

4lbs pale malt
3lbs wheat malt
2lbs flaked wheat
.25lb honey malt
.25lb munich malt

 

[HeavyBrew]

Well after a little reading I found that the wheat malts do take longer to convert. Will definitely have to do the iodine test and not rely on time. Do you guys do a conversion test every batch?

Also, my last few extract batches came out great with using the filtered water from the fridge, but I decided to go RO for this ag batch which looks like wasn't the greatest idea. I've read some people not having problems and some that are lacking flavor, conversion, etc. Anyone have anymore input on using RO water for AG? Do I really need to go and buy a bunch of additives to add to the water before I brew? Thanks.

 

[JPicasso]

I'm not a water expert, or an AG expert, but I've done a handful of BIAB batches, and have had eff in the high 70's.
We have hard water here so I mash in 50/50 RO and tap water.
I know that Distilled water would not work well to mash in, I suspect the RO (only) water is the culprit.
I think that stuff is missing essential minerals to promote the conversion.
I'm guessing you'd be better off with tap water than with just RO water.

 

[HeavyBrew]

I'm not a water expert, or an AG expert, but I've done a handful of BIAB batches, and have had eff in the high 70's.
We have hard water here so I mash in 50/50 RO and tap water.
I know that Distilled water would not work well to mash in, I suspect the RO (only) water is the culprit.
I think that stuff is missing essential minerals to promote the conversion.
I'm guessing you'd be better off with tap water than with just RO water.

Thanks, that's what I was thinking to do is use some RO, some tap. Do you check for conversion everytime you brew?

 

[motobrewer]

was probably the fact you used RO water.

I've never checked, but I never had any issues. after 60 i taste the grain, if it's sweet, you still have mashing to do.

my first (and last) biab turned out awful as well. you seem already set up for AG, spend $30 for a rubbermaid MLT.

 

[HeavyBrew]

was probably the fact you used RO water.

I've never checked, but I never had any issues. after 60 i taste the grain, if it's sweet, you still have mashing to do.

my first (and last) biab turned out awful as well. you seem already set up for AG, spend $30 for a rubbermaid MLT.

Yeah I'm planning on just goin all grain with the cooler I just wanted to see how this worked out first. You know any good places to get a good deal on a round 10 gal cooler?

 

[starrfish]

I test conversion with iodine on every batch, even my partial mashes. Iodine is cheap.

 

[SumnerH]

was probably the fact you used RO water.

Yep. Water chemistry matters; get a water report and adjust. I'm lucky in that for me the adjustments consist of 1/2 tsp of gypsum and an appropriate dose of 5.2 buffer in a 5 gallon batch.

I'm getting 75% brewhouse efficiency with my BiaB-with-sparge approach (which, if you think about it, is virtually identical to a regular batch sparge all-grain brew, except you're saving one vessel and some time by moving the grain around rather than the water):

1. Heat 4+ gallons of water to strike temp in main kettle
2. Add bag
3. Add grain, make sure it's at mash temp
4. Cover for 60 minutes, then test for conversion; test every 15 mins until full conversion.
5. Near the end of 60 minutes, heat 2.5-3 gallons of sparge water
6. After conversion, pull the bag out, let it drain, drop it in the sparge bath, and start heating the kettle.
7. Stir the grains in the sparge briefly, let it sit 10 minutes or so, drain and place bag aside for cleaning.
8. Pour sparge into main kettle.

Then I bring it to a boil, wait for the hot break, and brew as usual.

Exact water volumes vary based on the grain bill.

If you don't have a second pot to heat sparge water in, I hear that sparging with cold water in a bucket is better than nothing (and not all that much different than using warm water).

 

[HeavyBrew]

Yep. Water chemistry matters; get a water report and adjust. I'm lucky in that for me the adjustments consist of 1/2 tsp of gypsum and an appropriate dose of 5.2 buffer in a 5 gallon batch.

I'm getting 75% brewhouse efficiency with my BiaB-with-sparge approach (which, if you think about it, is virtually identical to a regular batch sparge all-grain brew, except you're saving one vessel and some time by moving the grain around rather than the water):

1. Heat 4+ gallons of water to strike temp in main kettle
2. Add bag
3. Add grain, make sure it's at mash temp
4. Cover for 60 minutes, then test for conversion; test every 15 mins until full conversion.
5. Near the end of 60 minutes, heat 2.5-3 gallons of sparge water
6. After conversion, pull the bag out, let it drain, drop it in the sparge bath, and start heating the kettle.
7. Stir the grains in the sparge briefly, let it sit 10 minutes or so, drain and place bag aside for cleaning.
8. Pour sparge into main kettle.

Then I bring it to a boil, wait for the hot break, and brew as usual.

Exact water volumes vary based on the grain bill.

If you don't have a second pot to heat sparge water in, I hear that sparging with cold water in a bucket is better than nothing (and not all that much different than using warm water).

I pretty much did the exact steps you listed there. What kind of ratio do you use for your mash..qt of water/lb of grain? I see most do 1.25-1.5 for biab

I bet I would have gotten much better conversion if I would have checked for it even if I used all RO. I'm going to use prob a mix of my well water and RO for my next batch anyway...

 

[david_42]

Just teabagging in the sparge water isn't optimal. I open the bag and stir the grain for 3-4 minutes, then teabag.

 

[HeavyBrew]

I tried my "baby" wheat tonight. I can't believe it, it's actually really good. I know I didn't get a great conversion, but it has a great mild wheat flavor you'd expect from an Am. Wheat. I was worried that is would be too bitter bc of the low gravity but it's pretty balanced. I guess since it didn't turn out bad, it wasn't a total failure. I think my next biab ag batch will go as planned after learning from this one..