Prior to Saturday I'd brewed 26 all-grain batches using a mash tun. Good beer resulted.
The promise of time savings with BIAB prompted me to give it a shot. Ordered a Wilserbag and pulley, set up my mill gap at .020, and went at it.
Everything went smoothly, though the first time ended up being a learning experience regarding wort yield, mash temp, and so on. But I'd had some good advice from Morrie, so there wasn't a lot to change except tweaking to the specifics of my system.
One benefit I had not anticipated was that it was a more relaxing brew. No vorlauf, no scrambling to get the mash tun cleaned as the wort was heating to a boil--in fact, I kept thinking I was forgetting something as there didn't seem to be as much to do.
A few pics below of my setup; started with 7.5 gallons, ended up with a shade over 6.5, which is pretty good since I expected a boil-off of about a gallon or so. I'll have to see how my mash temps hold; initially it had a bit of a spike as the heat from the burner kept the kettle warm. I'm thinking that's a good thing. I'll knock the initial strike temp down a few degrees next time (used 160 degrees for a grain bill of 12 1/2 #). I liked the quilt (old paint drop cloth!) being wrapped around the whole thing, very easy. Used a spring clamp to hold it in place, easy.
The beer tasted normal as it went into the fermenter.
My normal OG using traditional mash tun are in the low 1.060 range. This ended up at 1.061, which I could have exceeded if I'd squeezed out a little more and boiled it down. It's fine, and should end up about 1.013, for an ABV of 6.3 %.
I used a starter of Wyeast 2112, took off at 6 hours and was going like a banshee at 24 hours. I'm now in the ramp up the temp phase, and the beer looks great.
Looking forward to another brew soon using this method.



The promise of time savings with BIAB prompted me to give it a shot. Ordered a Wilserbag and pulley, set up my mill gap at .020, and went at it.
Everything went smoothly, though the first time ended up being a learning experience regarding wort yield, mash temp, and so on. But I'd had some good advice from Morrie, so there wasn't a lot to change except tweaking to the specifics of my system.
One benefit I had not anticipated was that it was a more relaxing brew. No vorlauf, no scrambling to get the mash tun cleaned as the wort was heating to a boil--in fact, I kept thinking I was forgetting something as there didn't seem to be as much to do.
A few pics below of my setup; started with 7.5 gallons, ended up with a shade over 6.5, which is pretty good since I expected a boil-off of about a gallon or so. I'll have to see how my mash temps hold; initially it had a bit of a spike as the heat from the burner kept the kettle warm. I'm thinking that's a good thing. I'll knock the initial strike temp down a few degrees next time (used 160 degrees for a grain bill of 12 1/2 #). I liked the quilt (old paint drop cloth!) being wrapped around the whole thing, very easy. Used a spring clamp to hold it in place, easy.
The beer tasted normal as it went into the fermenter.
My normal OG using traditional mash tun are in the low 1.060 range. This ended up at 1.061, which I could have exceeded if I'd squeezed out a little more and boiled it down. It's fine, and should end up about 1.013, for an ABV of 6.3 %.
I used a starter of Wyeast 2112, took off at 6 hours and was going like a banshee at 24 hours. I'm now in the ramp up the temp phase, and the beer looks great.
Looking forward to another brew soon using this method.


