First Batch/IPA

[IslandLizard]

Yes, it looks very good!

From: https://www.morebeer.com/products/4-gallon-fermenter-lid-spigot.html

Just got this fermenter today, noticed there is no sealing o-ring on the lid even though there is a groove cut in the lid for one, should one be in the lid?

No o-ring needed. It is a little awkward at first but when you get the lid and bucket aligned and then tighten it, it seals air tight just through the snug fit of the plastic. It IS a little difficult at first but by gracing your hands on the upper and lower protrusions along the lid and bucket to brace yourself you can generate enough torque to close it snugly and reopen it. Hard to describe in words but basically fiddle with closing and opening it without using the dimples on the top and you'll eventually figure it out. I have 2 of these and have had no problems getting a seal after approximately 10 brews each.

The dimples at the top are a red-herring and don't work well for opening and closing.

Read up on spigots on fermenters, how to use them, how to keep clean and sanitary, during and after fermentation, and how to keep the trub away from it, so you can get clear beer out of it when bottling.

I guess you do partial boils, chill, then top up with cold water in fermenter?

 

[CascadesBrewer]

This arrived yesterday. 3 Gallons! Has a spigot.

Did that come from Northern Brewer as well? What is the brand? I ask because my local shop had one of those (though I thought it was in the 2.5 gal range). I snapped a picture and then asked my girlfriend about it (she has been doing 1.2 to 1.5 gal batches split into 2 one gal glass jugs) but when we went back to pick it up, they sold it and did not plan to get them back in stock. She ended up going with a 3 gal Fermonster. I have a thing for small batch brewing and I am interested in other small fermenter options.

 

[Buick Beer Gardens]

I had read that note of the difficult lid when I was making my decision on purchasing. I agree, the lid is a bit to fiddle with as I "fiddled with it", but the design assures a good seal.

I was planning on purchasing the 2 gallon kits for this fermenter. Maybe a 5 gallon kit and using half of the ingredients. Once bottled start the remaining half of the kit. And or, brew up the 5 gallons putting 3 in the 3 gallon. One gallon in the one gallon carboy. Taking a bath in the remaining gallon.

 

[Buick Beer Gardens]

Did that come from Northern Brewer as well? What is the brand? I ask because my local shop had one of those (though I thought it was in the 2.5 gal range). I snapped a picture and then asked my girlfriend about it (she has been doing 1.2 to 1.5 gal batches split into 2 one gal glass jugs) but when we went back to pick it up, they sold it and did not plan to get them back in stock. She ended up going with a 3 gal Fermonster. I have a thing for small batch brewing and I am interested in other small fermenter options.

For the price and size...I could not pass it up. I like small batch brewing.

https://www.morebeer.com/products/4-gallon-fermenter-lid-spigot.html

 

[Buick Beer Gardens]

Picture from a reviewer. Should be a very good 3 gallon fermenter.

 

[IslandLizard]

From MoreBeer:

Holds roughly 3.4 gallons total; recommended for 3 gallon fermentations.

The domed lid may give you an additional pint (0.125 gallon) of headspace before the airlock start to spew. If you even remotely anticipate blow off, put a blow-off tube on it. Which is not a bad idea generally, you never know.

Check all your airlocks for any molded-in star-shaped restrictor on the bottom of the center tube. If it has one, cut or grind it off. That tube should be unrestricted to prevent BOOM!.

The newer airlocks don't seem to have them anymore, but who knows how many from older lots are still floating around, or are on the bottom of your parts bin.

 

[Buick Beer Gardens]

From MoreBeer:

The domed lid may give you an additional pint (0.125 gallon) of headspace before the airlock start to spew. If you even remotely anticipate blow off, put a blow-off tube on it. Which is not a bad idea generally, you never know.

Check all your airlocks for any molded-in star-shaped restrictor on the bottom of the center tube. If it has one, cut or grind it off. That tube should be unrestricted to prevent BOOM!.

The newer airlocks don't seem to have them anymore, but who knows how many from older lots are still floating around, or are on the bottom of your parts bin.

The review had a second picture of this fermenter with a blow off tube. Once I get this fermenter working I will create a thread.

 

[McKnuckle]

That is a cool fermenter. I have a thing for small fermenters, too. It's easy to find suitable small vessels, actually, but a spigot is a rare option and I really appreciate having one. It makes bottling an order of magnitude easier vs. trying to futz with an auto-siphon AND a bottling wand by oneself. I'm glad the market is coming around to offering some more options in the 1-4 gallon range with a spigot and wide opening.

 

[Buick Beer Gardens]

It is time to bottle. Will be two weeks come Sunday. Fermentation activity has all but stopped. I took a smell at the top of the bubbler....my goodness the IPA citrus fragrance is alluring! If the fragrance is any indication of the flavor I will be well pleased. I decided not to dry hop as this kit did not recommend.... however....next batch will be dry hopped.

 

[IslandLizard]

I decided not to dry hop as this kit did not recommend...

It ain't an IPA if it ain't dry hopped...

....but it can still be very good!

Fermentation activity has all but stopped.

You can't safely bottle in glass if it's not done fermenting.
PET (soda) bottles however are much more resilient and fine to use.

Yeast can't read directions, and she doesn't have to, she has her own genetic agenda.

 

[Buick Beer Gardens]

The kit contained SMaSH IPA. Single malt and single hop. Instructions did not call for dry hop. Since this is my first brewing I will follow the instructions so I don't have to explain to anyone why my beer tastes like swamp water for lack of following said instructions. Fermentation has ceased. I'm pleased the brew does not have some pond scum growing due to contamination. The fragrance is of citrus. The brew looks damn good. With that said, the bottling will commence as instructed. However...to be safe I will place the bottles in a locking lid tote just in case a bottle or two decides to blow. If she blows....no harm....just a grown adult whimpering by a tote full of beer and empty bottles.

 

[Buick Beer Gardens]

Investigation of dry hopping it appears to be a personal preference. For most it is a must for IPA. Some dry hop every type of beer they brew. I will dry hop the next batch. For may understanding this particular kit the hop schedule while boiling the wort makes all the difference in taste and aroma. I have read the same with similar kits of single malt and single hop recipes.

 

[fendersrule]

Dry hopping adds aroma. Without it, it will smell like...beer.

 

[McKnuckle]

As you continue to brew and experiment, you can try late boil hops, hopstands, and different timing/duration of dry hop additions. It's all good. In 113 batches I have dry hopped less than half a dozen times. Not sure why exactly, but I avoid it for some irrational reason. Hopstands may not contribute the intense aroma that dry hopping can, but it can add more persistent flavor which, of course, is tied up with the olfactory sense as well.

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

It is time to bottle

Before you bottle, does the hydrometer float in the fermenter?

 

[Buick Beer Gardens]

Before you bottle, does the hydrometer float in the fermenter?

The hydrometer I purchased has a length of 10 inches. To long to float in the fermenter at current beer level. However, if the beer level was at the gallon mark I'm believing the hydrometer would float allowing a measurement to be recorded. As a side note, I purchased a hydrometer beaker to fill and make measurements.

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

If you take a FG measurement using the beaker, measure the height of the beer that was needed to float the hydrometer. A similar height of beer will be needed in the fermenter (measuring from the top of the trub to the top of the beer).

 

[IslandLizard]

The hydrometer I purchased has a length of 10 inches.

As I mentioned twice before, the overall length of the hydrometer is insignificant. What counts is the distance between the bottom and the 1.000 mark. It may still be more than the height of beer, but worth measuring.

Sure, if there's any doubt, don't do it! Even the slightest tap on the bottom will likely crack/shatter the hydrometer.

It's alike testing one's ability to operate a clutch uphill with their cell phone behind the tire.

 

[Buick Beer Gardens]

As I mentioned twice before, the overall length of the hydrometer is insignificant. What counts is the distance between the bottom and the 1.000 mark. It may still be more than the height of beer, but worth measuring.

Sure, if there's any doubt, don't do it! Even the slightest tap on the bottom will likely crack/shatter the hydrometer.

It's alike testing one's ability to operate a clutch uphill with their cell phone behind the tire.

The length of the hydrometer prevents using it while the beer is in the fermenter.

 

[Buick Beer Gardens]

The beer is bottled with the help of the missus. Eight 12oz bottles. I tasted the beer. Sweet citrus with bitter finish.

I calculated 4%abv.

Thus far I'm pleased with the flavor. The bottles have their carb drops and will sit getting happy for 2 weeks.

Right now I have a hefewiuzen on the boil.

 

[Buick Beer Gardens]

All indications short of a hydrometer reading twice to check active fermentation, the fermenting appeared complete(2 weeks). Clear, no bubbler activity, nothing floating. I bottled the brew as the instructions indicated. Being short of a gallon total I have 8 bottle of beer. I did take a taste. I was very pleased with the flavor. However, the finish tasted boozy. I hope to have it mellow and get happy over the next 2 weeks carbonating.

 

[Buick Beer Gardens]

Short of two weeks bottle conditioning I decided to try one out of curiosity. No gushers or bottle bombs. Very sweet IPA citrus(grapefruit fruit finish) . I'm thinking another week fermenting would have served the batch well. The carbonation was good.

 

[Buick Beer Gardens]

This beer is very strong in the alcohol department. Holy smokes.

 

[fendersrule]

4% won't be strong...that's a session my friend.

Bottle carbonation is a range thing. It's generally 2-3 weeks while using dextrose. 3 weeks is max and is what I usually shoot for.

You can get away sometimes with 2 weeks if it has been aging longer in the fermenter.

Since you racked it after 2 weeks (which is a good safe "mimimal" time to assure fermentation is complete for common brews), I'd expect it to taste better, but not HUGELY better, after 3 weeks of bottle conditioning.

FWIW, a good upgrade for you would be to get rid of the vertical fermometer stickers and get horizontal ones. Horizontal ones are MUCH better for many reasons that I won't go into.

Your vertical strip was placed incorrectly and I can see lots of air gaps due to the exterior ribbing of the carboy. You won't get an accurate reading unless that sticker is 100% firmly sealed to the glass! It says 66F on the glass, but who knows what the actual reading is....after 3-4 days of fermenting it will slowly work its way down to room temp. Nothing to worry about, just knowledge for you.

You should always plan/expect for a +10F increase during fermentation. So if it's 66F ambient, expect that it "may" reach 76F during peak fermentation, which is much too warm for an ale.

Congrats on making beer! You'll soon learn that:

1) Yay, I can make beer now, and 1G of beer is the same effort as 5G of beer, so why not just do 5G?

2) Wow, beer takes nearly 1.5 months from start to finish. Maybe I should make beer every couple weeks so I can always have something new ready to taste?

btw, Nice Buick.

 

[Buick Beer Gardens]

I do plan on letting the bottles condition another week. I did move the strip to a portion on the carboy that allows it to lay flat across it's length. As a result the strip reads a consistent 64 degrees on the carboy and a conical fermenter in the same room. Thanks for the tips!

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

You should always plan/expect for a +10F increase during fermentation. So if it's 66F ambient, expect that it "may" reach 76F during peak fermentation, which is much too warm for an ale.

OP was brewing a one gallon kit (batch size was mentioned in reply #2). My experiences with actually brewing 1 gal batches suggest that the temperature will go up a couple of degrees, but not the +10 (or more ) degrees that's often stated for five gal batches.

 

[fendersrule]

Knowledge is power for the future.....many quickly leave 1G behind.

 

[Buick Beer Gardens]

Knowledge is power for the future.....many quickly leave 1G behind.

I purchase a 2.5 gallon conical and 3 gallon fermenter. I don't think I'll go any larger. Just bulky. I'm enjoying the variety with 3 small fermenters working.

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

many quickly leave 1G behind

And many continue to brew a mix of 1 gal, 2.5 gal, and 5.0 gal. For those that want to brew smaller batch sizes, let's strive to share our experiences when actually brewing that batch size.

So to the point (with two examples in this topic): There is some advice that is good for five gal brewers that simply not good for one gal brewers.

 

[Buick Beer Gardens]

4% won't be strong...that's a session my friend.

Bottle carbonation is a range thing. It's generally 2-3 weeks while using dextrose. 3 weeks is max and is what I usually shoot for.

You can get away sometimes with 2 weeks if it has been aging longer in the fermenter.

Since you racked it after 2 weeks (which is a good safe "mimimal" time to assure fermentation is complete for common brews), I'd expect it to taste better, but not HUGELY better, after 3 weeks of bottle conditioning.

FWIW, a good upgrade for you would be to get rid of the vertical fermometer stickers and get horizontal ones. Horizontal ones are MUCH better for many reasons that I won't go into.

Your vertical strip was placed incorrectly and I can see lots of air gaps due to the exterior ribbing of the carboy. You won't get an accurate reading unless that sticker is 100% firmly sealed to the glass! It says 66F on the glass, but who knows what the actual reading is....after 3-4 days of fermenting it will slowly work its way down to room temp. Nothing to worry about, just knowledge for you.

You should always plan/expect for a +10F increase during fermentation. So if it's 66F ambient, expect that it "may" reach 76F during peak fermentation, which is much too warm for an ale.

Congrats on making beer! You'll soon learn that:

1) Yay, I can make beer now, and 1G of beer is the same effort as 5G of beer, so why not just do 5G?

2) Wow, beer takes nearly 1.5 months from start to finish. Maybe I should make beer every couple weeks so I can always have something new ready to taste?

btw, Nice Buick.

View attachment 664461

Nice Charger. I own two Buicks. 54 Special 48D 264 Nailhead. 3 on the tree. Completely restored. My other is a completely original 60 Electra. 401 Nailhead. 36k original mile.