First attempt at BIAB this weekend - Have Questions

[desabat]

Questions:

1 - I want to get Clear wort but I read that BIAB makes for hazier wort. Ive only done Extract + Steeping so would love some input on this

2 - Is mash thickness important in BIAB? I was told to do use all my hot liquor for the single infusion mash. Is this the best method?

3 - Just want to get an overall opinion on the recipe to see if it looks OK. Went for 50 IBUs but not entirely sure.

4 - My Blichman Boilermaker came with a false bottom and don't know if it could be useful for BIAB.

5 - How much water should I start with taking into account grain absorption?

Here is my recipe:

Method: BIAB
Style: American Pale Ale
Boil Time: 60 min
Batch Size: 2.5 gallons (fermentor volume)
Boil Size: 3 gallons
Boil Gravity: 1.066 (recipe based estimate)
Efficiency: 70% (brew house) *Double Crush*

OG 1.079
FG 1.016
ABV 8.28%
IBU 48.28
SRM 14.08

Fermentables

5.5 lb American - Pale 2-Row 37 1.8 78%
0.35 lb American - Caramel / Crystal 80L 5%
0.2 lb American - Caramel / Crystal 120L 120 2.8%
1 lb Dry Malt Extract - Light 42 14.2%

Hops
Amount Variety Type AA Use Time IBU
0.5 oz Brewer's Gold 60 min 29.7
0.5 oz Amarillo 15 min 14.08
0.5 oz Amarillo 1 min 1.22
0.5 oz Chinook 1 min 1.85
0.5 oz Centennial 1 min 1.42
0.5 oz Amarillo Dry Hop 7 days
0.5 oz Chinook Dry Hop 7 days
0.5 oz Centennial Dry Hop 7 days

Mash Guidelines
Amount Description Type Temp Time
-- BIAB Single Infusion Infusion 152 F 60 min

Yeast
White Labs - California Ale Yeast WLP001

Attenuation (custom):
80%
Flocculation:
Medium
Optimum Temp:
68 - 73 °F
Starter:
1 Liter with 1 cup DME
Fermentation Temp:
70 °F
Pitch Rate:
0.75 (M cells / ml / ° P)
136 B cells required


Thanks for the help fellow brewers! Im really excited about going all grain even though my extracts turned out really great I'm looking to take the next step and see if all grain is truly superior. Cheers!

 

[LLBeanJ]

Questions:

1 - I want to get Clear wort but I read that BIAB makes for hazier wort. Ive only done Extract + Steeping so would love some input on this

Clear wort is overrated. What you really want is clear beer and whether the wort is clear or cloudy makes no difference (actually, there is some anecdotal evidence that suggests that dumping the entire contents of the boil, trub and all, into the fermenter will yield clearer beer in the end). Just make sure you have complete conversion of starches and don't worry about kettle trub.

2 - Is mash thickness important in BIAB? I was told to do use all my hot liquor for the single infusion mash. Is this the best method?

Not really important. Lots of BIABers mash with the entire volume. Some, like myself will utilize a sparge. Mash thickness can/will affect pH. Just how much, however, depends on your grain bill and brewing water. Don't worry about it for now and see how your brew turns out.

3 - Just want to get an overall opinion on the recipe to see if it looks OK. Went for 50 IBUs but not entirely sure.

I think your recipe looks fine.

4 - My Blichman Boilermaker came with a false bottom and don't know if it could be useful for BIAB.

I'd brew without it, as using it will create dead space underneath during the mash that will hinder your efficiency. You don't need it. Just be sure to stir constantly if/when adding heat while the bag is in the kettle.

5 - How much water should I start with taking into account grain absorption?

Assuming 1.0 gal/hour boiloff, .75 fl oz of absorption/oz of grain (will require some squeezing, but not too much), and dumping everything from the kettle into the fermenter, you would need 3.0 batch size + 1.0 boil off + .56 absorption = 4.56. If your boil off is different and you know what it is, change the total accordingly.

Good luck!

Edit: Oops! I just realized I made an error on the absorption calculation. Fixed now.

 

[desabat]

Did my first batch on saturday and everything went smoothly. Was aiming for og 1.079 and got 1.072.

I really enjoy brewing all grain biab, no extract to deal with. Hopefully everything turns out fine. The only thing i couldnt measure was the ph since i dont have the strips yet but im guessing my og is indicative that it should be fine, will know more once i get to sample it!

 

[Gavin C]

You mention at the end that you want to see if all grain is superior. To this end you will need to replace the 1 lb of DME with a pale malt. More of the two row ought to do it.

If space restrictions in the kettle don't allow just reduce the mash water volume and sparge after you pull the bag till you hit your desired preboil volume.

 

[solbes]

Glad to hear it went well. Understanding water chemistry will help you determine your pH. Highly alkaline water will limit the reduction in pH that is desired for paler beers. So I cut my water with 60-90% RO water bought at the grocery store for $0.39 per gallon. Beers like stouts and porters are better with some alkalinity. I would start with some of the threads here, Palmer's explanations in How to Brew, and then some software like EZ Water Calculator or some of the pay programs.

To your last statement, the OG will not be affected by mash and sparge pH. But if its too high it can have a astringent effect that is not desirable.

 

[desabat]

Yesterday at 5 days in I decided to take a sample using the spigot, and it's already down to 1.020! Only 5 more gravity points and it should be done fermenting. Placed the tube in the fridge to drop the yeast and trub and it was really clear, smooth tasting with so much hop aroma! It was really good for being only 5 days old, maybe has to do with it being all grain.

Should I dryhop it a day 7 and bottle at 14 (assuming finished fermentation) or should I leave longer? I've never bottled a beer in 2 weeks but this beer didn't taste green at all and its supposed to be close to 8% ABV.

 

[solbes]

I would leave this beer 2.5 weeks at minimum in primary. 3 weeks would be even better. Give it 5-7 days of dry hopping before you bottle.

 

[tomaso]

Hi,

Just have a Q about the recipe. It seems very strong and very sweet for it to be a pale ale and the attenuation seems really high. Don't really see how that works... I'm just curious and great for you if that beer turned out as you wanted! Cheers

 

[desabat]

Hi,

Just have a Q about the recipe. It seems very strong and very sweet for it to be a pale ale and the attenuation seems really high. Don't really see how that works... I'm just curious and great for you if that beer turned out as you wanted! Cheers

I'm not really going for a specific style but thanks for the observation. If theirs a better style that fits this recipe (IPA?) then let me know. IMO their isn't that much residual sweetness as the caramel malts were relatively small additions.

 

[jwalkermed]

2nd the whole clear wort thing. Just cold crash and fine with gelatin. Your beer will be crystal clear.

If you need info go here http://brulosophy.com/2015/01/05/the-gelatin-effect-exbeeriment-results/ or http://www.bertusbrewery.com/2012/06/how-to-clear-your-beer-with-gelatin.html

 

[desabat]

Hi,

Just have a Q about the recipe. It seems very strong and very sweet for it to be a pale ale and the attenuation seems really high. Don't really see how that works... I'm just curious and great for you if that beer turned out as you wanted! Cheers

Just took another reading last night and it stayed at 1.020 so I think that will be the FG which makes sense since I mashed at 152F. I overestimated my attenuation it seems but this will be more to style. Based on the color its more like an amber ale but stronger.