First All Grain

[cutarecord]

Well I'm getting kinda antsy about trying an all-grain batch. It just kinda dawned on me today that i can do an all grain batch with BIAB with the setup I have. Mostly i was interested in starting a discussion about BIAB vs. Using a Mash Tun. obviously your efficiency is effected but i would like to hear some opinions about why using a Mash Tun is better or BIAB...

I also have a few questions:

Do BIAB beers taste different than using a mash tun?

Why switch from BIAB to Mash tun?

Since i haven't done an all grain yet, i don't know my brewhouse efficiency. If im shooting for a 5.5 or 6 gal batch how much should my boil volume be? (boil off, grain absorption etc...) I have my beersmith set to 72% to estimate my water volumes but i just wanted to know if this was way off before i go buy my grain... I use a 40qt aluminium pot to boil and 6.5 gal carboys....

Thanks for any kind of discussion we can start here. I am a sponge of brewing information at this point. Any information is a good thing....

 

[enkamania]

I do BIAB and for grain absorbtion I go with 7.5%. I try for a pre-boil volume of 6.75 gallons.

 

[tre9er]

BIAB is easier and requires less equipment. I do a hybrid of the two. I mash in a cooler lined with the bag. There is no false bottom or manifold, just a valve (which isn't entirely necessary). I then dunk-sparge in the BK and pour the first runnings in from cooler. It's two vessel but I hold mash temps within a degree in the cooler without messing with heat.

 

[Pie_Man]

Just did my first BIAB this weekend. I really enjoyed it, much more fun than extract IMO. BIAB doesn't always have less efficiency from what I've heard on this forum. I think one advantage with a 10 gallon cooler mash tun is you'll probably be able to brew higher OG beers (assuming the same volumes). Also, depending on where you brew, the cooler might hold its temperature better.

I have a 10 gallon cooler that I'm in the process of building a manifold for, so I've yet to try the cooler method, but plan on using both.

 

[brewsme]

If I was starting from scratch today I would probably do a hybrid mainly to save money. I batch sparge in a cooler now and I have concerns with the BIAB holding temp in the kettle and having to watch over it constantly to monitor the temp. I also don't want to lose efficiency. My method now results 78-80%.

I would get a ~60qt cooler and a large sheet of muslin from a fabric store, enough to line the cooler and overlap the edges. Then I would proceed with batch sparging the way I do now...the only difference is I wouldn't need the kettle screen or the bulk head kit for the cooler. Also I could squeeze the grains after each infusion to get the last bit of water out.

 

[evwoller]

I think the best question you can ask yourself is how much exercise do you want in your brew day, in comparison to how much that extra work is worth. I am currently doing BIAB because of the cost. I don't really mind the work for right now and my wallet is fairly empty.

BIAB i think requires more lifting, and attention to detail.

I currently am getting efficiency in the 83-87% range. I am saving to get myself the equip to properly set up for 10 gallon batches, which i feel is a good point for me to consider a dedicated mash tun appropriate.

 

[william_shakes_beer]

I did my first BIAB PM this past weekend. I put a paint strainer over the top of the brew kettle, added 4 gallons water and no sparge. Mashed 60 minutes, then squeezed gently. Equipment purchased for PM, Nada. Next time I'm going to add one of those steel baskets that can be used to boil seafood. Mash there and have a handle to lift the grains with. Collander just wasn't cutting it. Also, going to sparge the remaining water through the grains instead of adding at the beginning of the boil. Now, if I can just figure out how to hold the kettle with one hand, the grain bag with the second hand and the water vessel with my third hand...

 

[tre9er]

I'm still fighting with myself over whether or not I want to stay BIAB or go to a true sparging method. If I buy a nicer grain bag with handles and end up going batch/fly sparge, I'll have wasted money. If I keep doing what I'm doing, I'm not fond of lifting and trying to squeeze the bag without handles or a pulley.

I'm two-tier right now though with this setup. Strike water is easily poured in from kettle by hand. Sparge happens in BK, so just need MLT above BK. True sparge would require three tiers and for me to setup my other kettle as HLT.

Decisions

 

[borny]

For me, I've been a homebrewer for over 10 years and have come to the conclusion that this is just a hobby and don't want to spend oodles of money on a hobby. So when the threads on my mini brew hlt became stripped I decided not to replace it. And so, I switched from a traditional fly sparge set up to biab for a couple reasons. In non specific order....

1, less equipment involved, so easy set up and clean up. My brew days only take 4-5 hours including set up, clean up and storing equipment. Also, less clutter, and my wife likes that one.

2 I don't drink a lot of high alcohol beers, so I don't need the traditional sparge set up. If I were to make a barleywine I would just add extract to boost the OG.

3 I enjoy the ease of brewing a lot more. For me with the traditional set up, the equipment became cumbersome and frustrating at times. I did not have a brew stand and don't want to spend a grand on one

4. I really like the beers are coming out! And that's the most important reason.