First AG batch

[Matt]

Saturday night was my first AG batch . I had a few questions about methods that I'm hoping can get answered. The first problem I encountered was that while trying to raise the mash temperature by direct heating, I would get a large variation in temperature readings depending on where I placed the thermometer. I noticed that in the really thick areas of the mash it was about 20 degrees (F) cooler than places where the mash was thin. I tried to keep the mash thickness as consistant as possible by stirring. I just wasn't really sure how these temperature differences were affecting the enzyme activity. As it was, I was able to hold the mash at about 156 F, when I stopped heating, but I know there were times when parts of the mash reached 170 during the heating process. Any advise? I think next time I will try to raise the temperature by infusion and see how this works.

The next big problem I had was draining my wort into the fermentor after the boil. I had fixed a braided SS hose on the end of my plumbing to the faucet, but it got plugged up so quickly with the hops and hotbreak that the faucet was virtually useless. I had to get out my auto siphon. Any advise on filtering the trub?

Also, as far as sparging. I stopped when the sparge was yielding 1.010, but I did not adjust for temperature. Is that necessary, or should I just go with stopping the sparge at 1.010 unadjusted?

Overall the process took about 9.5 hours. But I learned a lot and know where and how to make the process go much quicker next time. And despite my frustrations with the first batch, it was a lot of fun. Thanks in advance for the help and advise.

 

[cgcaudle]

Well, I had similar problems with my first AG...yesterday.

The part I can help you with is the kettle to the carboy. I was told to use a siphon with a grain sack on the end of it (To block out the large particles and hops). I haven't used it yet, but I heard it works great.
When I did mine, I went thru and scooped out the majority of my hops and then tipped the kettle over into a funnel w/ screen then into the carboy (With help from my mom....thanks mom) This took forever and I would not have been able to do it on my own. Although it did aerate it very well.

 

[cweston]

Was that pellet hops or leaf?

How long is the piece of SS braid?

The first time I tried this, mine was only a couple inches long, and that was totally inadequate.

I bought an 18-incher and that solved all my problems. I just let it flop around in the bottom of the keggle.

Also, I bag my pellet hops, although I'm not sure if they'd clog the screen or not because I've never tried them loose in there.

 

[Darth Konvel]

Welcome to the dark side, fellas

Direct heat can be pretty tricky to control. I'd second your idea on doing an infusion mash. It's much easier to get a consistent mash temp that way. Sounds like you had conversion though, so I wouldn't worry about this batch. Modern malts typically have enzymes to spare, so long as the enitre mash doesn't hit mashout temps for prolonged periods of time.

 

[cgcaudle]

I had someone print me out a beersmith sheet and I hit the temps right on for my infusion (blue 5Gal Gott-style cooler). You can even adjust for your equipment and you don't have to 'pre-heat' your gott cooler. I would highly reccomend infusion!

 

[mysterio]

I had the problem with the different temperatures in the mash with my first AG. Don't worry about it though, I'm drinking the results now and it's awesome. I'd say keep the mash thick and keep stirring, and do an infusion mash. I.E, start off with the water hotter then your target temp then dump the grains in. If your hose blocks again you can always give it a quick blow to dislodge the grains.

 

[Matt]

Thanks for the help and ideas. It does make me feel better to know I'm not the only one with these problems. I'm trying something a little different with the SS Braid and will probably use a longer length. Thanks again.

 

[PT Ray]

Large temp jumps during mashing is better achieved with infusion or even decoction methods. I have done a few with direct heat but soon realized it would have been much easier to have changed the mash schedule inorder to accommodate some infusions. When using direct heat for small jumps, my stainless pot from Wal-Mart with the heavy bottom works like a champ, minimizes hot/cold spots and holds the heat well. Last time I brewed, I had an unscheduled 2 hour protien rest. I mashed in at 130 degrees before leaving to drop the kid off, threw a towel over the pot and left for what I thought would be a 45min trip. Traffic was a nightmare and it took almost 2 hours. To my surprise, I only lost 8 degrees.

If you are using pellets in the kettle that should be an easy fix. If by removing the hose leaves the wort being picked up at the side of the kettle that is all you need. After the boil just create a whirlpool for minute, put the lid on and let it sit for 15 minutes. Everything will settle in the middle allowing clear wort to be drained from side without any filtering screens. If the spigot sits rather high off the bottom and/or is a weldless type that extends inside the kettle a good degree, fabricate a piece of copper tubing to attach to it so the wort is picked up off the bottom from the side.

 

[Sir Sudster]

Saturday night was my first AG batch . I had a few questions about methods that I'm hoping can get answered. The first problem I encountered was that while trying to raise the mash temperature by direct heating, I would get a large variation in temperature readings depending on where I placed the thermometer. I noticed that in the really thick areas of the mash it was about 20 degrees (F) cooler than places where the mash was thin. I tried to keep the mash thickness as consistant as possible by stirring. I just wasn't really sure how these temperature differences were affecting the enzyme activity. As it was, I was able to hold the mash at about 156 F, when I stopped heating, but I know there were times when parts of the mash reached 170 during the heating process. Any advise? I think next time I will try to raise the temperature by infusion and see how this works.

Get a paint mixer you attach to your drill. This works great. You can get one at Home Depot.

The next big problem I had was draining my wort into the fermentor after the boil. I had fixed a braided SS hose on the end of my plumbing to the faucet, but it got plugged up so quickly with the hops and hotbreak that the faucet was virtually useless. I had to get out my auto siphon. Any advise on filtering the trub?

This is a constant problem with pellet hops. Try Leaf hops. Otherwise you'll need a pump to keep the flow going. I haven't found any other way when using pellet hops other than a siphon after whirlpooling. I bought a pump.

Also, as far as sparging. I stopped when the sparge was yielding 1.010, but I did not adjust for temperature. Is that necessary, or should I just go with stopping the sparge at 1.010 unadjusted?

You stopped at a OG of 1.035 after adjusting for 170 DegF. You should have made the calculation. You stopped to early.