First AG batch yesterday....

[huge1s]

Did my first AG batch yesterday and I think it went ok. I did a fair amount of research getting myself ready for AG brewing (only have 1 other batch - extract - under my belt). Used the online calculators and had the timing down but had to improvise a bit. Made a couple mistakes.

I did the 1554 clone kit from AHB.

I was trying to mash at 152, but it ended up being 149-150... so I added some boiling water to bring it up (which it did). I also heated up a little extra sparge water, not knowing my grain absorption ratio and if my measurements for dead space were going to be the actual dead space losses. Between the extra mash water and sparge water.... I ended up with an extra gallon of wort. I am sure my efficiency took a hit, but I will know better for next time. One other mistake I made was not adding the maltodextrine to the boil at the start of the boil. I caught it with 15 minutes left, so hopefully that didn't screw up the beer. I also pulled some wort out into a pilsner glass thinking I could take my hydrometer reading from that.... but it was not deep enough. I ended up taking it directly in the fermenter after the boil. Target of 1.059 and it came out 1.055. I saved the pre-boil wort in the pilsner glass hoping I can take a hydrometer reading in something else. I would like to figure out my efficiency. Another mistake was that I had ~7 gallons of wort pre-boil and ended up with ~6 gallons post-boil, which was too much according to the recipe.

Couple brew day pics:

 

[dubiouschewy]

For a first all grain batch, I'd say that went about as well as any I've ever heard of!
Certainly better than mine (stuck sparge, manifold came off in the mash tun).

You're not far off on Original Gravity, and as long as you take a reading on your leftover wort before it has a chance to start fermenting, you should get a perfectly accurate reading. For that matter, there's no reason to think the 1.055 you measured from the fermenter wouldn't be accurate.

One word of advice, be mindful of messing with the cooled wort before fermentation starts-- this is when your beer is most vulnerable to infections.

 

[huge1s]

For a first all grain batch, I'd say that went about as well as any I've ever heard of!
Certainly better than mine (stuck sparge, manifold came off in the mash tun).

You're not far off on Original Gravity, and as long as you take a reading on your leftover wort before it has a chance to start fermenting, you should get a perfectly accurate reading. For that matter, there's no reason to think the 1.055 you measured from the fermenter wouldn't be accurate.

One word of advice, be mindful of messing with the cooled wort before fermentation starts-- this is when your beer is most vulnerable to infections.

Thanks... it was actually pretty fun. I am willing to let myself slide with a couple mistakes... but my next batch better be perfect

I have access to a chemistry lab here at work, so I might see if I can borrow a cylindar to take my reading tonight.

I sanitized the hyrometer before taking the reading... so hopefully no bugs got in there.

 

[dubiouschewy]

If you can't get a cylinder, the plastic tube most hydrometers are sold in works fine-- it's a little small, but it's perfectly accurate as long as you twirl it a bit to make sure it's not sticking to the sides. But yeah, if you took reading of your cooled wort in the fermenter, it's unlikely that you'll get a different reading from the sample in a tube or cylinder.

 

[huge1s]

If you can't get a cylinder, the plastic tube most hydrometers are sold in works fine-- it's a little small, but it's perfectly accurate as long as you twirl it a bit to make sure it's not sticking to the sides. But yeah, if you took reading of your cooled wort in the fermenter, it's unlikely that you'll get a different reading from the sample in a tube or cylinder.

Didn't think of that.... I think I will have to glue one end on since both ends come off the tube. As I used to say in my construction days.... "it's good enough for who it is for"

Doesn't the boil off effect the gravity? I would think that my reading would be lower from the non-boiled wort.

 

[Barnzy02]

Doesn't the boil off effect the gravity? I would think that my reading would be lower from the non-boiled wort.

My understanding is that the boil is only affecting the volume of wort, the amount of sugars in the worst is the same.

So your gravity should be the same pre and post boil however the number changes based on the amount of sugar in the liquid volume pre/post boil.

So your post boil gravity should be a bit higher, because the sugars are now concentrated in a smaller amount of liquid as opposed to pre-boil.


Granted, it makes sense in my head, i could just be talking out of my ass.

 

[dubiouschewy]

My bad-- I failed to notice you want a reading on your pre-boil wort. Yeah, that'll be different- lower, to be precise.

 

[puter]

I think I will have to glue one end on since both ends come off the tube.

You can. I didn't. The bottom stays on enough. I use a sanitized turkey baster to draw the wort then squirt it into the tube with one end on it setting on a table.

At first, I tested with water and placed a line at where I needed wort to be at before I placed the hydrometer in the tube. The hydrometer displaces some of the liquid.

 

[huge1s]

Used the plastic tube the hydrometer came in to measure my gravity... didn't need to glue it. Thanks for the suggestion.

It looks like I was at 78% efficiency but that could be off depending on the calculator I used at brewersfriend. For example.... If i choose "American - Pale Ale" it comes out to 78%, but if I choose "Belgian - Pale Ale" it drops down to 77%. Recipe only said "Pale Ale Malt". The only reason I care is that I would like to track my efficiency for consistency. Probably not a big deal. What is a big deal is that it has been 36 hours and there is still no signs of life in my fermenter. The temp might be a little low by a couple degrees, but I would have thought that it would start by now. My first batch (hefeweizen) started in only a few hours. I didn't do a starter (will do one next time probably) I know... 3 days..... I know. The other thing I noticed is that my air lock somehow got cracked. It is holding the liquid mostly.... but there is a very very slow leak. Shouldn't affect the fermentation though right?

Any suggestions to get this fermentation kicked off? move to warmer temps? cry?

 

[dubiouschewy]

Depends-- is there a krausen forming? If so, it might just be your busted airlock.

What temp did you pitch at? What temp is it now? What yeast and how much? And did you aerate?

These are generally the big variables for determining fermentation time and vigor.

 

[huge1s]

Depends-- is there a krausen forming? If so, it might just be your busted airlock.

What temp did you pitch at? What temp is it now? What yeast and how much? And did you aerate?

These are generally the big variables for determining fermentation time and vigor.

No krausen at all. I may have some busted yeast, but will give it another day. I pitched at ~75 degrees and it is "fermenting" at 68 (give or take a couple degrees) right now. It is a white labs liquid yeast (german southern lager). 1 vial with no starter. I aerated by pouring the wort back and forth between my fermenter and boil kettle. Made 6 pours in all.

I called Austin Home Brew this morning and they were concerned that the yeast might be a gonner considering it was shipped in hot weather and stored in my fridge for 3-4 weeks. I am going to try giving the wort a good stir tonight to see if it will get going.

 

[dubiouschewy]

Yeah...that sounds like dead yeast.

If you have a homebrew store nearby, you might try substituting a dry yeast-- way more yeast-per-package than liquid, and no need for a starter. You'll wanna get some yeast into that raw beer kinda ASAP. Although, as always, RDWHAHB.

Also, 68f is generally considered too high for a lager yeast although I'm unfamiliar with the clone kit you're using. But if anything that should result in a more vigorous fermentation.

 

[heckels]

+1 on the lagering temps. Also, most of those euro yeast strains are slow to start, even the ones for ales. Lager yeasts are normally even slower to start. Wyeast will normally note slow starters on their site...not sure about white labs.

Also, i'd check the gravity again 5 days after pitching to see if it's changed. Make sure everything is sanitized. If you're still at your OG then your yeast is probably bad.

 

[huge1s]

Yeah...that sounds like dead yeast.

If you have a homebrew store nearby, you might try substituting a dry yeast-- way more yeast-per-package than liquid, and no need for a starter. You'll wanna get some yeast into that raw beer kinda ASAP. Although, as always, RDWHAHB.

Also, 68f is generally considered too high for a lager yeast although I'm unfamiliar with the clone kit you're using. But if anything that should result in a more vigorous fermentation.

Yeah... they are shipping me some more yeast. 1554 is a "steam beer" which is basically lager yeast that ferments at ale temps. My temps are pretty close, but a little (by a degree or two) on the low side. They said my wort would be good for a week if I keep it sealed. I will probably see if I can find a homebrew shop local to get this going...

 

[huge1s]

here's a question for you guys.... assuming my yeast has bit the dust, would it be better to re-boil for a while (say... 10 minutes), cool, aerate and pitch (a few days till I get new yeast)? or just leave the wort where it is at and pitch when I get new yeast?

 

[huge1s]

by the way... I think from now on I am going to do a starter if for no other reason that to test the viability of the yeast.

 

[Naggs]

+1 on making a starter. Not only will it test the viability of the yeast, but you will have way more cells available to get to work

As far as reboiling, etc., I don't think I would go through all that. I would keep it sealed and get some more yeast in their ASAP.

 

[meatwad]

My San Fran Lager yeast (WLP810) took 50 hours before I saw any ferm activity. Making a Cali Common, a steam, and I was sweatin a bit. I think it just takes some time to get goin....hang in there.

Also, for efficiency, try this, and skip down to "Calculating Efficiency by Hand"
It's pretty simple :

http://suebob.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=53:all-grain-primer&catid=40:brewing-articles&Itemid=66

 

[huge1s]

My San Fran Lager yeast (WLP810) took 50 hours before I saw any ferm activity. Making a Cali Common, a steam, and I was sweatin a bit. I think it just takes some time to get goin....hang in there.

Also, for efficiency, try this, and skip down to "Calculating Efficiency by Hand"
It's pretty simple :

http://suebob.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=53:all-grain-primer&catid=40:brewing-articles&Itemid=66

that makes me feel better but I just checked after 48 hours and there isn't even a bubble.... I will just leave it alone until i get my new yeast (friday) and hope for the best. Otherwise.... i will probably just drink the 5 gallons of sugar water anyway, because it tastes good