Few questions, want answered verified please

[Goolsbymd]

Good afternoon, I'm a brand new brewer(first batch 1 week into fermentation) and I'm getting ready to start kegging and put into a keezer. I ordered the 3 tap system off keg connection and 3 ball lock cornys. My plan is to after gravity is constant, place primary into the keezer and CO2 bottle to cold crash/drop temp of bottle for a few more days, completely disassemble the cornys, clean and sanitize, then relube all the o rings. Rack my brown ale into the corny using an auto, then pressurize with CO2 using the set and forget method iaw with the chart for correct temp/vol change/psi setting and checking back 1.5-2weeks later. My reg. Is the taprite dual body with 3 output manifold. Its my understanding that if I keg 3 beers all within a close vol change of each other i can do all 3 at once as it will regulate through the manifold at say 12psi, or two at one psi and the third at a second psi. Then if i want I can make root beer and carb that at a completely different psi using the second body.

If cold crashing, do I still need to add gelatin or the moss or is this sufficient? Is my understanding of the regulator and its uses correct with multiple charging?
Anything i should do differently? Thanks.

 

[morticaixavier]

not familiar with the second body regulators but what I know of them, your assumption is correct. I do know that I can put two kegs on my system with a 2 way manifold and they will be at the same pressure. if you have a second low pressure regulator then you should be able to set two different pressures. just remember that the higher pressure should be the one closer to the bottle.

cold crashing is a great idea, it helps get everything out of the way and if you are okay with leaving a bit of beer behind in the primary you can get really clear beer in the keg.

I don't use gelatin and never have an isue with cloudy beer. I use Irish moss in the boil and other than that enough time and come good cold crashing does the trick.

 

[stpug]

Don't forget to purge the headspace in your keg after racking beer to it and sealing the lid. You'll want to allow some co2 to mixwith and forceout the oxygen that's remaining in there. This is just a precautionary step to avoid oxidation.

Dual-body so it has three guages, right? Two pressure adjuster knobs? The manifold will give the same pressure to all kegs connected to it - there's no way of controlling the pressure through the manifold. However, the 2nd pressure regulator on the taprite WILL allow you to control the pressure on the keg connected to it.

You can use gelatin if you want extra-clear beer but generally a good cold crash is sufficient.

Irish moss is only used in the boil.

 

[Goolsbymd]

Don't forget to purge the headspace in your keg after racking beer to it and sealing the lid. You'll want to allow some co2 to mixwith and forceout the oxygen that's remaining in there. This is just a precautionary step to avoid oxidation.

Dual-body so it has three guages, right? Two pressure adjuster knobs? The manifold will give the same pressure to all kegs connected to it - there's no way of controlling the pressure through the manifold. However, the 2nd pressure regulator on the taprite WILL allow you to control the pressure on the keg connected to it.

You can use gelatin if you want extra-clear beer but generally a good cold crash is sufficient.

Irish moss is only used in the boil.

Ah yes the purging escaped my mind. Yes. 3 gauges, one reads bottle,other two are above their respective knob controller. The far knob which will be the lower setting will have the manifold connected to it and the closer knob to the bottle will have a higher setting, which normally the discharge will remain closed and reg set slightly above the lower setting just so I'm not blasting 30psi on closest regulator then stepping it down to say 12psi. I will forgo the moss and gelatin and just keep a steady cold crash a few time then add the gelatin and see which I prefer more. Thanks.

 

[BigFloyd]

Here's what I normally do after fermentation is complete.

1) cold crash the primary fermenter bucket 5-7 days at 35-36*F.

2) sanitize a keg, run some CO2 into it via the gas post.

3) rack the beer to keg. Seal the lid with 25-30 psi of CO2. Purge the headspace a few times with CO2.

4) put it on 11-12 psi (my service pressure with 12ft lines) at 38*F for a couple weeks to carb.

 

[Goolsbymd]

Here's what I normally do after fermentation is complete.

1) cold crash the primary fermenter bucket 5-7 days at 35-36*F.

2) sanitize a keg, run some CO2 into it via the gas post.

3) rack the beer to keg. Seal the lid with 25-30 psi of CO2. Purge the headspace a few times with CO2.

4) put it on 11-12 psi (my service pressure with 12ft lines) at 38*F for a couple weeks to carb.

Im sure ill read it deeper while searching the index but what about the suction while cold crashing? Is it only a problem with plastic fermenters ie dropping temp from 70 down to 40ish while still sealed wouldnt it suck in the container(plastic, won't suck in glass) andpotentionaly whatever the blow off tube is sticking into, into the beer? I use glass carboys. Difficult to explain ill just search it. Or is it a plastic only problem.

Found it. Nvm. Answer for any other new brewer wondering.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/cold-crashing-glass-secondary-459598/

 

[stpug]

You will have inward suction on any fermentation vessel when crash cooling due to pressure changes and liquid shrinkage; however, it's not a problem when using S-shape airlocks. Keep the level at 1/4 height of the bubbles (or less) and you just won't get any suckback.

 

[BigFloyd]

You will have inward suction on any fermentation vessel when crash cooling due to pressure changes and liquid shrinkage; however, it's not a problem when using S-shape airlocks. Keep the level at 1/4 height of the bubbles (or less) and you just won't get any suckback.

Yep.. Put StarSan in one of these and you're good to go.