Fermenter to keg transfer

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Beerdrinker85

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Hi.

Yesterday, it was my first pressure transfer from my ss brewtech 7gal BME to my 5gal corny keg. Wanted to try the no oxygen transfer technique.
I purged the keg before and connected a 3/8 hose on my fermenter racking valve, connected the quick connect on the beer line of the keg, opened the PRF, set the pressure at the top to 2-3 psi and opened the racking valve.
I got a good clear beer flowing into the line.

My question is how much time is it supposed to take to fill the keg? It took like 30 to 40 min to transfer 4.75 gal . Is it normal or it should be faster? I cannot saw the flow rate because the beer was so clear and cant saw any bubble going in the keg ( wich is great :)

I also felt that I used a lot of co2 during the transfer time and have to play with the pressure gauge while there was less beer in the fermenter.

I also know that I had good pressure because the pressure valve at the top or the conical is opening at 3 psi for protection if I remember.

So Im I on the spot with 30-40 min transfer time or it should be faster?

Thanks
 
Mine goes a lot faster. From my SS BME I can do it in a few minutes. However, I dont go through the liquid post (which I would imagine would slow things down. I actually found a threaded barb that fits the keg and attach the hose straight to that and into the dip tube. This eliminates the beer from having to go through the poppet and small opening on the liquid post. After I just unscrew the barb and attach the post. Boom! :)
 
Mine goes a lot faster. From my SS BME I can do it in a few minutes. However, I dont go through the liquid post (which I would imagine would slow things down. I actually found a threaded barb that fits the keg and attach the hose straight to that and into the dip tube. This eliminates the beer from having to go through the poppet and small opening on the liquid post. After I just unscrew the barb and attach the post. Boom! :)

Do you have a link to this? I looked, wasn't sure what I found is what you're using.

Could you also use a liquid-out post that has had the poppet removed, and then swap that for one w/ the poppet?
 
Do you have a link to this? I looked, wasn't sure what I found is what you're using.

Could you also use a liquid-out post that has had the poppet removed, and then swap that for one w/ the poppet?

I think the key advantages of "closed transfer" are at least partially negated if you have to remove and then reconnect the poppet, leaving the keg open to air (and it may also result in leaks - I like to test my kegs for leaks after emptying them of starsan with CO2, and then not mess with poppet threading once they are confirmed to be leak-proof for a few days or even weeks, unless it's an emergency like clogged dip tube and you have no choice but to remove poppet).

My transfer is about 5 min for 5Gallons of beer, maybe 7-8min tops - just did it this morning with my Munch Helles in fact. I push on the fermenter headspace with maybe 5-7 psi of CO2 (I use the valve to adjust this pressure a bit) - I also put a gas QD on the keg, connected to a tube that goes into starsan filled bucket or keg. Bubbling of this "exhaust" will tell you the rate of transfer, and it will slow down or stop if you are clogged. It also prevents air from diffusing back before you transfer, or if transfer stops for some reason.

I would say, try higher pressure, maybe thicker tubing and the "exhaust" tube going into liquid.
 
Do you have a link to this? I looked, wasn't sure what I found is what you're using.

Could you also use a liquid-out post that has had the poppet removed, and then swap that for one w/ the poppet?

I dont really know. I was under the impression that the poppet was responsible for pushing back up on the little pin in the disconnect.

I basically use the 3/16"barbx1/4"thread found here which the threads match the keg post pretty close (you dont need a tight seal the o-ring on the dip tube solves that). then I attach a liquid line to the BME out and to the barb and push away
 
Mine goes a lot faster. From my SS BME I can do it in a few minutes. However, I dont go through the liquid post (which I would imagine would slow things down. I actually found a threaded barb that fits the keg and attach the hose straight to that and into the dip tube. This eliminates the beer from having to go through the poppet and small opening on the liquid post. After I just unscrew the barb and attach the post. Boom! :)

Thx for the info. Whats you transfer pressure at on your BME? Can you hear the PRV releasing gas while transfering?
 
I think the key advantages of "closed transfer" are at least partially negated if you have to remove and then reconnect the poppet, leaving the keg open to air (and it may also result in leaks - I like to test my kegs for leaks after emptying them of starsan with CO2, and then not mess with poppet threading once they are confirmed to be leak-proof for a few days or even weeks, unless it's an emergency like clogged dip tube and you have no choice but to remove poppet).

My transfer is about 5 min for 5Gallons of beer, maybe 7-8min tops - just did it this morning with my Munch Helles in fact. I push on the fermenter headspace with maybe 5-7 psi of CO2 (I use the valve to adjust this pressure a bit) - I also put a gas QD on the keg, connected to a tube that goes into starsan filled bucket or keg. Bubbling of this "exhaust" will tell you the rate of transfer, and it will slow down or stop if you are clogged. It also prevents air from diffusing back before you transfer, or if transfer stops for some reason.

I would say, try higher pressure, maybe thicker tubing and the "exhaust" tube going into liquid.

While I agree with that, the time it takes me to remove the barb and attach the post lets negligible amounts of o2 in. And Ive never had a leak with this method and Ive kegged about 30 beers this way
 
I forgot to mention that when I turned the pressure up a bit to like 5 psi the QD on the liquid line was leaking a bit from the QD.. not the post..
Its like it was to much from him...
 
@kev211
Another vote to post a link to that piece if you know it

If you switch out that piece to a regular ball lock post quickly, the amount of O2 getting in the keg should be minimal. Also, it's probably a good idea to purge a few times even with a closed transfer.
 
@kev211
Another vote to post a link to that piece if you know it

If you switch out that piece to a regular ball lock post quickly, the amount of O2 getting in the keg should be minimal. Also, it's probably a good idea to purge a few times even with a closed transfer.

So heres the adapter that I use (Ive got it "permanently" threaded to the barb). This piece attaches to the 19/32-18 threads on the keg and converts them into 1/4" threads allowing you to use THIS 3/16" barbx1/4"FPT barb

:mug:
 
@Beerdrinker85

Whenever I have a slow closed transfer, it is usually due to the ball lock quick disconnect getting clogged with hop/yeast sludge. If you are experiencing a slow transfer, clamp off the flow, clean out the quick disconnect that attaches to the keg post. That usually is the culprit. It will typically clog there before it clogs up the poppet on the keg post.
 
@Beerdrinker85

Whenever I have a slow closed transfer, it is usually due to the ball lock quick disconnect getting clogged with hop/yeast sludge. If you are experiencing a slow transfer, clamp off the flow, clean out the quick disconnect that attaches to the keg post. That usually is the culprit. It will typically clog there before it clogs up the poppet on the keg post.

Thanks for this tips I'll check the QD tonight if it was clocked but the first flow was very very clean beer all along
 
Should I transfer into the gas post rather than beer post then?

I would transfer into the liquid post, via dip tube, to reduce splashing - this way you are filling beer from the bottom and venting through the exhaust gas QD at the top. Otherwise, how do you vent?
 
I would transfer into the liquid post, via dip tube, to reduce splashing - this way you are filling beer from the bottom and venting through the exhaust gas QD at the top. Otherwise, how do you vent?

This. But, Ive always just laid a screwdriver across the top of the keg through the prv to vent (just another option for OP). Either way, Reduce splashing, vent keg :)
 
Most PRV can be turned about a 1/4 turn and they stay open on their own.

I wouldn't fill through the gas line for 2 reason: 1) lots of splashing and 2) the beer will dry out and cake up the poppet in the post.
 
I would transfer into the liquid post, via dip tube, to reduce splashing - this way you are filling beer from the bottom and venting through the exhaust gas QD at the top. Otherwise, how do you vent?

I vent the keg with the PRV that I locked/opened on the lid. I have no gas connected on the keg while pressuring.

With your comment, I think I did good with transfering the beer in the liquid post so I just hope that it was the QD clogged or the poppet. Will check this tonight and report back.
 
Finally the Quick Disconnect was not clogged, it was very clean... Don't know why it took around 40 min to transfer...
 
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