Fermenter idea about ready to try

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WoodyBlue
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I am working on both the Hop Sock and this fermenter idea.

Wanted a 10+ gallon fermenter for my brutus so I didn't have to split into two 6.5 gallon glass carboys. Hate the glass. Wanted Stainless but can't afford a conical, yet.

Purchased a keg. thought to myself; "Self, you cut your with BobbyM's jig design for 12"openings and you still have the lids you cut out. mmmmmmmm How can I use them?"

Then I thought about the Keg fermentation fitting made to clamp on with triclamp fittings. I redesigned BobbyM's jig to cut a 6" hole. Found the big honkin o-rings. I was half there. 11 7/8"diameter lid, triclamp fitting fermentation fitting with racking cane and blow-off tube. 6" hole in Keg, 8" o-ring, no how to clamp for air tight seal.
fermenterd.jpg

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Looked around and fired up the welder and made a pair of brackets with a turnbuckle that when tightened applies downward pressure and makes a great seal.
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Hot water test with sanke tap fitting holding pressure

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I think I have something here. Holds a seal GREAT, allows for easy cleaning inside the keg. full 10+ gallon fermentation. Blow-Off tube allows for CO2 racking pressure.

Actual test coming soon
 
Very cool. If my brewing area had any kind of temperature consistency, I would just ferment right in the boil kettle or HLT. The only downside is having to wait until you transfer out to be able to brew again.
 
Very cool. If my brewing area had any kind of temperature consistency, I would just ferment right in the boil kettle or HLT. The only downside is having to wait until you transfer out to be able to brew again.

I agree, Like Lonnie does. I too would like to do that, however obtaining a good seal on my boil keggle would be difficult too, did you see the Hop Sock thread?

Can't do both but this allows for easy yeast pitching, post cleaning and easier transporting from the brewing area to my basement.
 
That is Awsome !!!! i have been trying to think of a way to seal a cut top sanke for months. The turnbuckle and steel bracket is genius, excellent engineering.I was planing on welding SS nuts to the rim of the keg at an angle so the tip of the bolt with a boot, applied pressure in about 6 points. you got it figured out the clamp applies pressure 360 degrees to provide a good seal. how many psi will it hold ?
 
I am not sure how the PSI limit. it doesn't need to hold much as the blow-off tube will not hold much either. but it does create a good seal, Thanks, I was originaly going to go with a 25 lbs lead filled leather donut to apply steady pressure but didn't want the extra weight.

This puts a secure lid on the fermenter without a bunch more weight.
 
I have done something similar on my kettle for a few years now. After I cool the wort down I lid up. I do this on my kettle so I can move my wort into my fermentor. I don't like pumps. by doing this I use O2 and once it is done transfering I let the O2 bubble up through the wort in the fermentor. Kills 2 birds with one stone.

I used a seal off of a pressure cooker. I suppose my idea only needs a couple holes and you could ferment right in the kettle. Under the flat bar is a small piece of rubber sheet. The way mine is I can not put much pressure on it. Though I have never put a guage on it, I know it isn't much before the gasket blows out to one side.

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The hose is the O2.
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With a healthy yeast count your kettle would only be out of commission for the primary fermentation.


I know it was mentioned in the thread, but if you were talking to me. I have conicals. No need to ferment in the kettle. The conicals being a gift from the wife is what brought about the idea for me.
 
referring to the OP, it seems like you missed a golden opportunity to cut both the hole in the keg and the size of your 'lid' as ovals, not unlike corny lids. Then you can slip the lid into the inside/underside and, using a similar gasket put some pressure to it and have it seal itself. No separate gas in/beer out tubes, and i guess you would need a sankey coupler and CO2 to pressurize the inside, but might work well. i dunno.
 
I have four half barrels ready for conversion to keggles, but I was wondering what to do for 10-gal fermenters. The plan *was* to split batches *or* use an old dairy cleaner carboy (13 gal), but perhaps two of the keggles will have to become fermenteggles. Thanks for the idea!
 
or, before cutting the kegs, try this:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f13/closed-system-pressurized-fermentation-technique-44344/

it's a long read, but worth it. Or if you don't want to buy the extra equipment (spunding valve setup), just use the sankey as if it were a carboy that you can't see through (or can you, superman?). put a #11 bung and airlock or stretch an orange carboy cap onto it for a blowoff tube. Works great for me, and offers new ways to ferment.
 
or, before cutting the kegs, try this:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f13/closed-system-pressurized-fermentation-technique-44344/

it's a long read, but worth it. Or if you don't want to buy the extra equipment (spunding valve setup), just use the sankey as if it were a carboy that you can't see through (or can you, superman?). put a #11 bung and airlock or stretch an orange carboy cap onto it for a blowoff tube. Works great for me, and offers new ways to ferment.

The guy I got the kegs from used his keg tool to pull the sanke-ball locks and told me, "Do not screw these in or you will never get them out again!". Never one to disobey an order (snicker), I threw out the fittings :-(. But I can probably scare up a #11 drilled easily enough.

The thing I love about HBT is you guys and gals are smart enough to make me feel dumb when I'm *not* drinking.
 
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I think I have something here. Holds a seal GREAT, allows for easy cleaning inside the keg. full 10+ gallon fermentation. Blow-Off tube allows for CO2 racking pressure.

Actual test coming soon

Very cool but I have a couple questions...

First if this is the lid cut from the keg, I'm a little unclear how it's wider than the opening... maybe I've tossed a few too many back..

Second, does the seal matter that much?

I use buckets and sometimes leave the lid on loosely for the primary, snap it on later after the krausen drops.

I'm interested in this simply cause I have a pony keg my neighbor left behind when he fled the state from the police or something like that..
 
Very cool but I have a couple questions...

First if this is the lid cut from the keg, I'm a little unclear how it's wider than the opening... maybe I've tossed a few too many back..

You cut a full-size hole in one keg that you'll use to boil in, and then cut a smaller hole in your fermenter-keg. Use the big cut-out as the lid for the fermenter.
 
the screw-in spears on sankeys are really a PITA! there's a thread to help with that: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/sankey-threaded-spear-removal-145720/. Once it's out, you can remove the safety feature which makes it a PITA to remove. Just FYI for anyone else, before you throw it away.

The bung works though. I currently have 3 10 gallon batches fermenting: 1 under pressure, 1 with a bung, 1 with a blowoff tube. Use whatcha got :mug:
 
You cut a full-size hole in one keg that you'll use to boil in, and then cut a smaller hole in your fermenter-keg. Use the big cut-out as the lid for the fermenter.

Sort of what I was thinking but when sipping a number of pints, the DIY gets a tad unclear at times... Thanks,
 
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