Extra Sockets on Temp Controller (3 gang box)?

[Arrheinous]

I'm currently sourcing all the parts to put together an STC-1000 temperature controller for my fermentation chamber fridge. My build will be working off the 2 gang box idea but will be a 3 gang box instead - controller in opening 1, split cooling/heating sockets in opening 2, and an 'always on' outlet in opening 3.

This second outlet is for using USB-based cooling fans to push air around since my heater doesn't include a fan. Operating a stirplate inside the chamber is another plus. Could be done with one of those fancy sockets with two USB slots but this is more versatile and much cheaper.

I think the max current draw for USB is 0.5 amps so I wouldn't be overloading the circuit. A wall outlet to USB adapter will be used.

For reference, the heater is a [URL="500W ceramic heater (4.17 amps @ 120V) and I have a relatively new bottom freezer fridge (another 500W?, give or take spikes at start up?).

Can I just splice the power cord to the STC-1000 and the second pair of outlets in parallel without extra precautions with 12AWG wire? It seems like it'll still be under capacity but I wouldn't want to run a vacuum cleaner off it.



(A variant would be not breaking the connection between the two sockets on the first outlet and having two sockets for heating and two for cooling if you want to alternate the use of fans, etc.)

 

[Brumateur]

Never had chance to play with STC-1000 but according it's manual "hot" and "cold" relays should never be ON at the same time. If it's correct you shouldn't worry about overload.

 

[Yaason]

That would work fine. I added an always on outlet for a stirplate or anything else I needed near the vicinity of the temp controller and fit it all into a small project box. Tight fit but no problems.

Mine: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/eb...roller-build-163849/index141.html#post4228550

 

[MindenMan]

I'm currently sourcing all the parts to put together an STC-1000 temperature controller for my fermentation chamber fridge. My build will be working off the 2 gang box idea but will be a 3 gang box instead - controller in opening 1, split cooling/heating sockets in opening 2, and an 'always on' outlet in opening 3.

This second outlet is for using USB-based cooling fans to push air around since my heater doesn't include a fan. Operating a stirplate inside the chamber is another plus. Could be done with one of those fancy sockets with two USB slots but this is more versatile and much cheaper.

I think the max current draw for USB is 0.5 amps so I wouldn't be overloading the circuit. A wall outlet to USB adapter will be used.

For reference, the heater is a [URL="500W ceramic heater (4.17 amps @ 120V) and I have a relatively new bottom freezer fridge (another 500W?, give or take spikes at start up?).

Can I just splice the power cord to the STC-1000 and the second pair of outlets in parallel without extra precautions with 12AWG wire? It seems like it'll still be under capacity but I wouldn't want to run a vacuum cleaner off it.



(A variant would be not breaking the connection between the two sockets on the first outlet and having two sockets for heating and two for cooling if you want to alternate the use of fans, etc.)

My 5 cu. ft. chest freezer is also tied to a STC-1000 controller unit I built. The STC-1000 has a delay circuit so the cool and heat cannot be on at the same time. My 2 gang box has the controller in one side, and a duplex plug in the other. I do have an always on short extension cord available too. The reason for this post really is, your heaters are too big. 500 watts is just overkill, I believe. I use a 200 watt Lasco heater, and it is more than enough for my chest freezer with 6 gallons of ale inside. I have been trying to come up with a method that doesn't cycle the heat/cool on and off for the first two days. My garage is less than 52* F in the day, and less than that at night. So why would I want to use a cooling cycle as well as the heat cycle? I don't. The ambient temp is lower than the 62* F I want my wort at, so I only enable the heating cycle, letting the ambient temperature take care of the cooling. Currently, I have 6 gallons of American Stout in one bucket, and five, 2 liter bottles also. Three of the 5 bottles are wedged between the bucket and the sidewall, and the other two are the same shelf as the heater. Even though the heater is aimed away from the 2 bottles, they got hotter than than 64* F, WAY hotter. Fortunately, they were hard cider bottles that I believe were past fermentation, and I did taste them, and there is nothing bad/different than the one wedged with the two bottles. What I should have done, was balance the bucket temperature first, and then add the bottles since the temp probe was attached to the bucket. I hope this makes sense.

 

[Arrheinous]

I'll take some notes off your setup. It looks like you've really thought it out.

Delay on the fridge cycling is part of the STC-1000 as a fixed time delay or do you just need to set the differential so that it'll run for maybe 10 minutes before shut-off?

For cooling, I'm looking at maybe lagering or handling cold crashes with the chamber. There's also some months out here where it's 100F for days at a time and I don't want a Mother Nature mood swing to take the piss out of my brewing ops. Ohio is always too hot or too cold (basement temps run between 50F and 85F for me ) There's also run-away fermentations where a good pitch will bring the internal heat up above the desired temp - running the chamber cold can help extract that heat.

I wonder what temp the freezer portion will be at during lagering in the fridge.

Correction on my part: it's a 200W heater, not 500.

A 200W heater is still overkill but I've seen this model on the forums before. I can probably fit two carboys/Better Bottles, more with keg fermenters, that's 10+ gallons to maintain. It came out to be cheaper than a ceramic bulb / lamp holder online or a decent seedling mat. There's a few built-in closets in the basement I could also turn into chambers that I'd need something like this for.

I may line my chamber with aluminum to reflect heat across the chamber more evenly. Same thing as radiant barrier tech in roofing.

Are you keeping your temp probe attached to the side of the bucket in water? Submerging the probe in a water bath gives it a bit of thermal ballast. The ultimate temp probe would probably use a thermowell to measure the beer itself.