cowgo said:I just installed and tied together a couple of 100 cfm bath fan vents over my eBIAB set up. It's directly vented to the outside. (Went through a couple 15 inch masonry bits getting through the stone foundation) I like that I'll have a light directly over the kettle.
Still working on the brew space (Build thread HERE), should have it completed by this Sunday and brewing the next weekend
I brew in 30g pots usually to capacity in the workshop of my garage. I have a 8" Active AIr 720CFM fan ducted out through the wall via 8" ducting. I don't have a hood, just a section of ducting over the BK and really only run the fan during boiling. This set up has worked great for me and I have had zero problems.
I tried the bath fan. It didn't work for me, the condensation was insane.
mux said:I saw the Active air fans along. They are kind of expensive, but I believe you get what you pay for. I will most likely go that route. thanks for the response.
NattyBrew said:When I was completing my Kal clone I decided to build my own hood out of a couple of stacked 2x6s and lined the inside with an FRP panel. My setup works fantastic and saved me a bunch of bucks compared to Kal's shiny stainless steel one (though I still am envious of that damn thing!) Here's a couple quick photos of mine. If you want more pics and/or details you can check out my build thread linked in my signature.
Matt
Hoosier-Brewer said:I like the hood idea there Natty, and that is what I will be doing as well. I haven't decided on the fan yet though, I want something cheaper than the Vortex and since i will be direct venting out the wall I should be able to come up with a solution. Do you have a cost on your hood less the fan and duct? Looking at materials I think I can build a similar hood for $40-$50 plus the fan.
mux said:That's awesome. Did you use schedule 40? That's a good idea.
NattyBrew said:Yeah, I used PVC versus metal ducting because it was just a little easier to work with for me. I was able to push the pieces together without glue, and make the connections air tight by caulking the joints. The stuff works great, is super smooth on the inside, so it barely slows the fan speed down.
Matt
What are my electric brewing friends using to exhaust the steam/ control condensation?
shortyjacobs said:Had to punch holes in the low points to act as condensation drains so it stopped sucking water into my fan....other than that it works extremely well, no condensation escapes.
castermmt said:NattyBrew has a very simple system that looks good and is very functional. I seen his before I built mine and went with the wood lined with plastic as well. Nice Job! You will need a good blower to remove the steam. If you don't you have a good chance of feeding mold, then you'll say I should have gotten a bigger fan. Cheers
any body ever heard the active air 6'' vs the vortex 6''? I don't want to give up all the quiet if my ebuild for a loud arse fan.
Looks like you can get into the active air for ~$100 and the vortex for ~$165. Seems like most people say don't go less than 6''.
so my build is going to be in the basement in the same room as the gas furnace and water heater, about 10ft away from each. I just got my rim joists foamed and the house sealed. Do I have to worry much that I'll be sucking all the CO into the house when brewing, and not exhausting it up the chimney where it should be going? I will have a fresh air source available right near the brewstand. Just want to make sure the furnace and heater still draft up the chimney and not into the basement when the fan is going. The insulation guys did a smoke test at the water heater to make sure there was still enough pull after doing all the sealing. But if I'm adding a 300 or 400 cfm fan into the mix I have no idea what it'll do to the airflow of the house.
Enter your email address to join: