ergonomics-friendly brewing setup?

[omazing]

hi guys,
i believe home-brewing isn't the friendliest when it comes to back safety. lifting the 5G carboy or the pot can cause long term damages. and to be honest, I'm feeling it in my back.

i bought this carboy carrier and i think its working fine for me. my issue is carrying the brewing pot off the stove. i have one of these iron cast stoves that i put on the ground, i put the pot on top of it and i get going.

my challenge is when i carry the pot off (its hot obviously) so i tend to keep it away from my body to avoid the heat. needless to say, this puts lots of pressure on my lower back.

i'm reaching out for some ideas, has anyone done a setup that's completely free from heavy-lifting of any sort? thanks

 

[TheMadKing]

hi guys,
i believe home-brewing isn't the friendliest when it comes to back safety. lifting the 5G carboy or the pot can cause long term damages. and to be honest, I'm feeling it in my back.

i bought this carboy carrier and i think its working fine for me. my issue is carrying the brewing pot off the stove. i have one of these iron cast stoves that i put on the ground, i put the pot on top of it and i get going.

my challenge is when i carry the pot off (its hot obviously) so i tend to keep it away from my body to avoid the heat. needless to say, this puts lots of pressure on my lower back.

i'm reaching out for some ideas, has anyone done a setup that's completely free from heavy-lifting of any sort? thanks

Why are you moving a hot pot at all?

Most folks chill their hot wort in the pot without moving it, and then siphon or pump the beer to the fermenter once it's cool.

 

[omazing]

Why are you moving a hot pot at all?

Most folks chill their hot wort in the pot without moving it, and then siphon or pump the beer to the fermenter once it's cool.

if i siphon it, i need the pot to be elevated, no?

 

[FloppyKnockers]

Pumps and pullies have been my back saver. The more I feel it, the more pumps and pullies I bring into my environment. I'm almost to the pully on a track system stage of back care.

if i siphon it, i need the pot to be elevated, no?

Not really. Higher than your fermenter is a plus, but not needed. You can siphon higher as long as the peak of your hose is highest. The higher you go, the more pressure is needed. If it's too much lower, then a pump is needed.

 

[TheMadKing]

if i siphon it, i need the pot to be elevated, no?

Can you elevate your stove by a foot or two? Like put it on a low table or box? That way you never have to move the pot full, and you can siphon without needing to elevate it any more

 

[TheMadKing]

Not really. Higher than your fermenter is a plus, but not needed. You can siphon higher as long as the peak of your hose is highest. The higher you go, the more pressure is needed. If it's too much lower, then a pump is needed.

That's actually not true. The end of the hose in the receiving vessel needs to be lower than the bottom of the sending vessel for a siphon to work.

The height of the peak of the hose has no effect on the siphon because the same amount of energy is needed for the liquid to go up to the top of the peak as it is to go down to the bottom of the other side. It only works if the bottom of the other side is lower than the starting point.

 

[hotbeer]

If you want to spend some more money, a all-in-one brewing system might be what you want.

I just do 2.5 gallon batches or less and will likely never go higher than that. So the pot of wort and the grain bags are quite manageable. It's more enjoyable for me to brew more often than to have to wait for the beer to be drank.

 

[FloppyKnockers]

That's actually not true. The end of the hose in the receiving vessel needs to be lower than the bottom of the sending vessel for a siphon to work.

The height of the peak of the hose has no effect on the siphon because the same amount of energy is needed for the liquid to go up to the top of the peak as it is to go down to the bottom of the other side. It only works if the bottom of the other side is lower than the starting point.

It is, in fact, very true. It is possible because I used to do it for large aquariums where pouring water or filling with a hose was not possible. As long as the hose after the peak going into the receiving vessel can hold more volume than the 'from' vessel, you can create a siphon. This can be done by either having the 'fill' side a larger diameter and/or coiled. This will result in greater pressure.

 

[NSMikeD]

If you want to spend some more money, a all-in-one brewing system might be what you want.

I just do 2.5 gallon batches or less and will likely never go higher than that. So the pot of wort and the grain bags are quite manageable. It's more enjoyable for me to brew more often than to have to wait for the beer to be drank..

I have to agree. While batch size is a personal decision, the market has responded and now supplies equipment and ingredients for small batch brewers, I'm biased as too am a 2.5 gallon all-in one brewer but the smaller batch and anvil 6.5 foundry makes for an easier on my back brew day. The batch size is a better fit for my consumption habits and desire to brew a variety of styles and more often.

 

[TheMadKing]

It is, in fact, very true. It is possible because I used to do it for large aquariums where pouring water or filling with a hose was not possible. As long as the hose after the peak going into the receiving vessel can hold more volume than the 'from' vessel, you can create a siphon. This can be done by either having the 'fill' side a larger diameter and/or coiled. This will result in greater pressure.

Hmm I'd have to see that one.. But if you've done it, who am I to argue

 

[omazing]

If you want to spend some more money, a all-in-one brewing system might be what you want.

I just do 2.5 gallon batches or less and will likely never go higher than that. So the pot of wort and the grain bags are quite manageable. It's more enjoyable for me to brew more often than to have to wait for the beer to be drank.

money isn't an issue and i'd happy to do that. Excuse my lack of knowledge, but is there a system like this for DME? its all i do. the ones I've seen online say they're for all grain (unless you can use them for DME and I don't know)

 

[omazing]

On a general note, thank you guys for all your insights. much appreciated.

 

[FloppyKnockers]

Hmm I'd have to see that one.. But if you've done it, who am I to argue

Yeah, I'm not great at painting a picture as to how or why it works, but it does. Albeit, not ideal for racking beer, but if it's your only option...

 

[Bobby_M]

That's actually not true. The end of the hose in the receiving vessel needs to be lower than the bottom of the sending vessel for a siphon to work.

The height of the peak of the hose has no effect on the siphon because the same amount of energy is needed for the liquid to go up to the top of the peak as it is to go down to the bottom of the other side. It only works if the bottom of the other side is lower than the starting point.

This is 100% correct. The peak of the hose has nothing to do with how a siphon works. It's the height differential between the height of the liquid in the donor tank and the height of the end of the hose opening (if it's in open air) or the height of the liquid in the receiving tank (if the hose end is submerged). Once the height of the liquid in the receiving tank is at the same height as the donor tank's liquid, the flow stops.

 

[OakIslandBrewery]

I have read the previous posts a couple times now and maybe I'm missing something, but - rather moving a hot pot off the burner or siphoning the hot wort, why not just have a drain valve on your brew pot? If it's at the proper height it'll drain, into a carboy or bucket. You still have the weight to lift at that point but you're not moving around a hot pot whether chilled or not.

 

[TheMadKing]

This is 100% correct. The peak of the hose has nothing to do with how a siphon works. It's the height differential between the height of the liquid in the donor tank and the height of the end of the hose opening (if it's in open air) or the height of the liquid in the receiving tank (if the hose end is submerged). Once the height of the liquid in the receiving tank is at the same height as the donor tank's liquid, the flow stops.

Actually Bobby, I went and looked it up after he said that and it looks like it's possible to siphon uphill or on level ground using a check valve. Once the siphon is started, as long as the receiving side of the peak is sufficiently longer than the doner side of the peak, it will flow provided that the energy needed to overcome gravity to reach the peak is not greater than the weight of the water in the receiving leg. Turns out siphons are more complex than I thought at first

 

[Bobby_M]

Actually Bobby, I went and looked it up after he said that and it looks like it's possible to siphon uphill or on level ground using a check valve. Once the siphon is started, as long as the receiving side of the peak is sufficiently longer than the doner side of the peak, it will flow provided that the energy needed to overcome gravity to reach the peak is not greater than the weight of the water in the receiving leg. Turns out siphons are more complex than I thought at first

Sounds like you might be talking about a ram pump. If not, I'd need to see what you saw. Of course I'm always open to being completely wrong and eating crap for being so confident about it.

 

[TheMadKing]

Sounds like you might be talking about a ram pump. If not, I'd need to see what you saw. Of course I'm always open to being completely wrong and eating crap for being so confident about it.

Well I went back to find it and I misread it... nevermind! Height differential required! Sorry

 

[hotbeer]

i'd happy to do that. Excuse my lack of knowledge, but is there a system like this for DME?

You'll have to excuse my lack of knowledge too. I just made that suggestion because they use the term all-in-on for them. So I don't know what's included in the "all" part.

If it's only mash and boil then it's a bad suggestion probably. But if it's mash, boil and ferment, then I'd think you can use them for extract too and just skip the mash part.

However as much as I don't know about all-in-ones, I know even less about extract brewing. Never done it, never been anywhere near it while it's being done.

 

[Bobby_M]

I'd recommend putting your burner up on a couple of cinder blocks so you have gravity on your side. Chill the batch in place so you can siphon cold wort into your fermenter.

If you switch to something like the Digiboil kettle, you can run that indoors so you don't have to move things as far.

 

[govner1]

hi guys,
i believe home-brewing isn't the friendliest when it comes to back safety. lifting the 5G carboy or the pot can cause long term damages. and to be honest, I'm feeling it in my back.

i bought this carboy carrier and i think its working fine for me. my issue is carrying the brewing pot off the stove. i have one of these iron cast stoves that i put on the ground, i put the pot on top of it and i get going.

my challenge is when i carry the pot off (its hot obviously) so i tend to keep it away from my body to avoid the heat. needless to say, this puts lots of pressure on my lower back.

i'm reaching out for some ideas, has anyone done a setup that's completely free from heavy-lifting of any sort? thanks

First, I’m one armed following a brain hemorrhage that pretty much eliminated all my previous hobbies, so I settled on brewing because I could adapt it to my abilities.
I started with 3g all grain batches with a 3 vessel, propane system with a lot of help from my LHBS and introductions to other home brewers and clubs.
First, lifting and carrying any HOT pots/kettles of 200° wort is not only dangerous, but frankly stupid !
Also , if you’re using glass carboys, the same.
I’d recommend sitting down and developing a more logical, safe, and practical process.
I currently brew 9g AG batches which I divide into two 3 gallon batches for fermentation using 5 & 6 gallon plastic carboys ( I use Better Bottles) and then transfer to 3g carboys for secondary when needed.
I also keg using 3g kegs.
All in all it might require a larger initial budget but long term it will yield far more satisfactory results and fewer sore backs and potential injuries.
I’m currently planning to upgrade to an all electric, one vessel system that allows me to do up to 20g batches, but still utilizing the same fermentation vessels thanks to pumps!
I’m now 75 and brewing allows me to adapt to my personal limits.
Feel free to contact me if you have any questions.

 

[Geezer-Glide]

I’m a little older than you and moving over 60# of hot wort and fermenter became problematic for me. I built a mobile jib crane. I have limited “hobby space” or if you listen to my wife too many hobbies. I needed something that didn’t occupy a lot of floor space. I needed to be able to use it to put my fermenter(s) in the laundry sink for cooling (easier than cleaning my plate chiller) and I needed to be able to move it and lower a six gallon fermenter into my old chest freezer/fermentation chamber. The finished lift occupies a floor space of ~ 18” x 24” With the outriggers detached. The rolling outriggers attach in seconds and will lift a fermenter with six gallons with no problem.

I can provide construction information if you want.

 

[wsmith1625]

+1

I'd recommend putting your burner up on a couple of cinder blocks so you have gravity on your side. Chill the batch in place so you can siphon cold wort into your fermenter.

If you switch to something like the Digiboil kettle, you can run that indoors so you don't have to move things as far.

 

[dperrigan]

Hi there. I have a weak back also so I have tried to make things as easy as possible for myself.

Small fermenters: I brew 10 gallons per month, but it goes in four 3-gallon fermonster plastic fermenters. The carrying strap harnesses make them easy for even me to carry full.

Brewing at waist height near my water source: Burner and kettle are on a table and cinderblock setup to get the correct height. I can chill from that location without moving anything. Drain from spigot in kettle into those small fermenters (which are sitting on the groud).

A do-it-yourself wench to lift and drain the BIAB bag: Two stepladders, a metal beam, and a rachet pully make this an easy step.

No lifting full kegs into my keezer: I clean and purge my keg. Then fit the EMPTY (except for CO2) keg into the keezer. Then I carry the (lightweight) fermenter to a nearby table and do an oxygen-free transfer into the keg in-place.

Dan

 

[Broken Crow]

money isn't an issue and i'd happy to do that.

That being the case offers you more choices... I was disabled on the job for a major employer in Canada, so that means living only high enough above the poverty line so as to disqualify me for any much-needed assistance and leave me voiceless... Spine/CNS/Brain-damage. I chose home brewing as a combo therapy and to restore a bit of my epicurean lifestyle. (I can't afford what I deem 'good' beer, but I can make as good or better for less than half the cost) If I could: 1/ handle an overhead pulley or afford an electric winch..2/ as well as dedicate the space to it and 3/ make 6.5 and/or 12 gallon batches (for cost and packaging economics), I'd totally go with an AIO unit... What I have chosen is to try and build my own accessible 3V system with a tippy-tun and easy to klean kettle using a CIP ball. Starting exclusively with DME & LME, I used an electric keggle on casters, with a pump and CFC, constant recirculation (to reduce stirring and temp stratification) and a 3-way valve to chose between the recirc port and the 'out' to the fermenter, which started as the glass ones, but now I use the Fermonsters as they're so much lighter.
The best thing that has helped me though, is my girlfriend who I get to do most of the heavy lifting.

 

[norrismj]

You have a lot of confidence in those handles. Not sure I'd trust them for long, especially on the ferementer
.

 

[Geezer-Glide]

norrismj, if you are referring to my lift - good point. I don’t move hot wort (except with a pump), I don’t stand under it, and it is in a basement and close to floor drain in the event of a catastrophic failure.