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Equipment for a full boil

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jldc

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Say you want to do a full boil for a 5.5 gallon extract/specialty grains brew.

I assume you need a propane burner to get 6+ gallons boiling, and a 9-10 gallon pot to keep it from boiling over. It also seems like a ball valve is pretty much essential to keep from having to lift and pour 5+ gallons of wort, but it seems like a false bottom and thermometer are options you could add later. It also seems like a wort chiller is a must.

Is this about right?

Do you need any special kind of tubing to drain the wort using the valve? I'm guessing not since you will cool the wort first - just something that fits.
 
I have used a 3 qt to boil 5lb LME, and 1 DME. Ideally you want a bigger pot (5 gal), and you can do it on a stove if you have too.
 
I am a beginner but for my first batch I did a full 5 gallon boil with a LME/Grain brew. I used a 9 gallon kettle with built in Thermometer and a 1/2 inch ball valve. I did not use a wort chiller though. Instead I used a Keg bucket, placed my kettle in it and with a garden hose ran cold water around it. I timed it and it took just under an hour to cool to 72 deg. (I had to empty and refill the bucket 3 times)

The ball valve and thermometer were great though and saved me a lot of time and frustration. By outdoor burner is great especially since it was free but you could conceivably boil 6 gallons on some ranges. I tested my range and got 4 gallons to boil fairly easily so 2 more should not be a big deal but all ranges are different. The burner though is just great because brewing outside saves a lot of mess. Also with a 9 gal pot I only had a problem with spill over from foam after adding hops and covering with a lid. In other words with no lid it would never have spilled over.
 
IMO the chiller is the only must. with a 36-qt pot (9 gallons) you can easily boil boil 6-7 gallons down to 5.5. You need to chill it fast though - so a chiller is needed. A valve is nice, but pouring ~6 gallons of wort that's been chilled down to ~75ish (or cooler) isn't that bad (unless you're worried about wild yeast or other contaminants during a pour - but I've never had any problems and it helps aerate)
 
I can do full boils on my stove if I start it in two different pots. 4 gallons in my 8gallon pot and 3 gallons in a 4 gallon pot.

Once both are boiling, I slowly pour the contents of the smaller pot into my big pot and it stays boiling.

And i use an autosiphon to move the wort from the boil kettle to the carboy.

B
 
Yeah I forgot to mention that you can do without a ball valve if you siphon and it also helps limit sediment.
 
IMO the chiller is the only must. with a 36-qt pot (9 gallons) you can easily boil boil 6-7 gallons down to 5.5. You need to chill it fast though - so a chiller is needed. A valve is nice, but pouring ~6 gallons of wort that's been chilled down to ~75ish (or cooler) isn't that bad (unless you're worried about wild yeast or other contaminants during a pour - but I've never had any problems and it helps aerate)

AZ,

When I did mine I cooled in about an hour without a chiller. Do I need to be faster?
 
The faster you can cool the better. A good cold break will drop the proteins out and help your beer be clearer. Plus, less risk of wild yeast getting in there and messing you up.
 
You do have it about right. I would though add that a thermometer is essential. At the end of the boil and after you have cooled your wort you want to pitch those wonderful little yeastie into a wort of the proper temperature.

Not too warm, not too cold...just right.

And to know that temperature you need a thermometer. An accurate digital can be had for under $20.00. In fact, I picked one up for eight bucks and compared its measurement to other thermometers I have and it was spot on.
 
How fast does a Wort Chiller work? Say for a 6 gal batch reduced to 5 and just under boil. Are we talking like 15 minutes?

P.S. My kettle has a thermometer in it so the rod enters about 3-4 inches into the pot. Is it easy to get a Wort Chiller around that?
 
The faster you can cool the better. A good cold break will drop the proteins out and help your beer be clearer. Plus, less risk of wild yeast getting in there and messing you up.

What he said - just don't look at his avatar! :D
 
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