I am thinking about laying a Epoxy floor in my garage. I have a concrete floor that dose not have any major cracks but it soaks up any spilled wort like a sponge. Living in FL I worry about not laying it in decent humidity or heat. I have heard stories about the DIY kits peeling up or not drying even weeks later. Any thoughts?
Epoxy Garage Flooring
- Thread starter jeremy586
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Not sure about the heat and humidity, but I did my garage here in Rhode Island with a Rustoleum kit at least 8 years ago. Degrease cleaned very well. It is holding up very well.
iijakii
Well-Known Member
I helped my pops do it a good ten years ago back in Texas where it was pretty hot and mildly humid. We didn't have any issues, but we did plan to avoid any rain. I'm sure it's not as ideal, but a bit ludicrous to say you just can't lay epoxy down in a humid climate. You need to do a nice cleaning / acid etch and then as long as you let it dry sufficiently you'll be solid. Humidity will make that take longer, but whatever.
Gonefishing
Someday I'll stop procrastinating
We have done a few floors at the place I work and both came out well. The key is getting the floor clean before you apply this stuff. The best option is to have the floor sanded or sandblasted, next would be a good acid cleaner. It'll never peel if you get the floor clean enough to start with.
Be aware that unless you add some texture to the epoxy it will be extremely slippery when wet. Speaking from experience here, it's pretty easy to bust your ass. I put mine on my shop floor over 20 years ago and it probably needs replacing now after lots of use and abuse so I would recommend it.
I did an epoxy coating on the garage floor in my first house. There are some things i'd do differently if i had to do it again, but overall it was vastly worth the time and expense, especially once I started home brewing and had to clean up sticky wort every few weeks. A few tips:
1. Floor prep is crucial.
2. Do not skip floor prep.
3. If you skip floor prep, your epoxy will peel right off. Epoxy is a great coating because once it has cured, it is non-reactive to most things a garage floor will meet, thus it cleans up easily. However, part of the trick with applying an epoxy coating is that you need to have an extremely ROUGH gritty surface that is devoid of oils and greases. Epoxy binds to the concrete by seeping into the microscopic cracks and filling them, while also bonding to other epoxy molecules. It does not chemically bond to anything. It is purely a mechanical bond.
4. Don't skimp on the coatings. You'll need multiple coats if you want a long lasting surface.
So you've got a few options depending upon your surface:
1. If you have sealed concrete (it'll be shiny), there isn't a cheap/easy method. You need to get a mechanical abrading machine. It'll cost you an extra $100-200 but you'll get the best surface possible.
2. If you have unsealed concrete (typically a little course and stains soak right in) you can go the chemical route - "etching". You'd be absolutely amazed what lighty diluted muriatic acid will do to concrete. You'll need adequate eye, skin and lung protection, but this stuff will dissolve the surface of the concrete in seconds. What you're left with is like 100 grit sand paper. You can get a pretty good bond to this, but its not as good as mechanical abrasion. There are some all-in-one products that claim to degrease and 'etch' the surface. I did that the first time, then went back and did it again with the muriatic acid because it wasn't good enough. Still one of my most fond memories ever was seeing the floor hiss and pop as i poured the acid on it. Very very cool.
If i had to do it again, I'd do the mechanical abrasion. Etching was a lot of work.
Then it comes to the coatings... you can go to your local DIY shop and buy an epoxy floor coating kit. Only buy the 2-part kind. The 1-part stuff sucks - It's more like a paint than epoxy and hot tires will lift it right up. The 2-part stuff is the real deal. If you really want a solid floor you'll want to do 2 coats or more. Even better would be 2 colored coats, followed by a clear epoxy coat that has a traction material (e.g. sand or chips). Every 5-10 years you can reapply the clear coat to keep the floor looking like new. The thicker the coating, the more it will resist chipping. Epoxy bonds exceptionally well to existing clean epoxy.
Your other option would be to use industrial coatings. These typically require a license to install. They are significantly better in just about every way, but it's going to cost you a fortune to have it put down. I covet having one of these floors but don't think I could justify it in my garage.
1. Floor prep is crucial.
2. Do not skip floor prep.
3. If you skip floor prep, your epoxy will peel right off. Epoxy is a great coating because once it has cured, it is non-reactive to most things a garage floor will meet, thus it cleans up easily. However, part of the trick with applying an epoxy coating is that you need to have an extremely ROUGH gritty surface that is devoid of oils and greases. Epoxy binds to the concrete by seeping into the microscopic cracks and filling them, while also bonding to other epoxy molecules. It does not chemically bond to anything. It is purely a mechanical bond.
4. Don't skimp on the coatings. You'll need multiple coats if you want a long lasting surface.
So you've got a few options depending upon your surface:
1. If you have sealed concrete (it'll be shiny), there isn't a cheap/easy method. You need to get a mechanical abrading machine. It'll cost you an extra $100-200 but you'll get the best surface possible.
2. If you have unsealed concrete (typically a little course and stains soak right in) you can go the chemical route - "etching". You'd be absolutely amazed what lighty diluted muriatic acid will do to concrete. You'll need adequate eye, skin and lung protection, but this stuff will dissolve the surface of the concrete in seconds. What you're left with is like 100 grit sand paper. You can get a pretty good bond to this, but its not as good as mechanical abrasion. There are some all-in-one products that claim to degrease and 'etch' the surface. I did that the first time, then went back and did it again with the muriatic acid because it wasn't good enough. Still one of my most fond memories ever was seeing the floor hiss and pop as i poured the acid on it. Very very cool.
If i had to do it again, I'd do the mechanical abrasion. Etching was a lot of work.
Then it comes to the coatings... you can go to your local DIY shop and buy an epoxy floor coating kit. Only buy the 2-part kind. The 1-part stuff sucks - It's more like a paint than epoxy and hot tires will lift it right up. The 2-part stuff is the real deal. If you really want a solid floor you'll want to do 2 coats or more. Even better would be 2 colored coats, followed by a clear epoxy coat that has a traction material (e.g. sand or chips). Every 5-10 years you can reapply the clear coat to keep the floor looking like new. The thicker the coating, the more it will resist chipping. Epoxy bonds exceptionally well to existing clean epoxy.
Your other option would be to use industrial coatings. These typically require a license to install. They are significantly better in just about every way, but it's going to cost you a fortune to have it put down. I covet having one of these floors but don't think I could justify it in my garage.
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This is all great advice. Thanks for your thoughts. I've called around to see how much it would coast me to have it installed instead of DIY. The going rate is around $1500. I think i rather just do it myself and save some money for beer.
FreddyMar3
Well-Known Member
Jeremy, thanks for starting this thread. I am in the same boat. Schematix, thanks for the helpful info. I am about to use self leveling cement in my garage to get the floor evened out. I was thinking of doing a 2-part epoxy after that. Should I still look to do etching or abrasion on the self-leveling once it has cured? Even if it is a brand new, clean floor?
we are doing our floor this weekend at our factory, the people doing it are taking a 1/4 inch off the floor then putting down the epoxy
lots of prep work but it is guaranteed to last, at 5 dollars a square foot it should be
lots of prep work but it is guaranteed to last, at 5 dollars a square foot it should be
I've never done any research on the bonding compatibility between epoxy coatings and floor leveler so I really don't know. I bet if you called the manufacturer of your desired epoxy coating they could shed some light on the subject though.
I'm not sure about abrasion either. I'd be worried as hell that if the leveler wasn't extremely thick that it would chip it up. How much leveler are you going to apply?
FreddyMar3
Well-Known Member
I did some more research on this. the leveler can't be applied more than 1.5 inches thick. Even though it is extremely strong, I'm not going the abrasion route. I got muriatic acid, which you wash over the concrete to open up the pores and get a good bond with the epoxy.
Stealthcruiser
Well-Known Member
we had 4200 square feet done over the weekend they started on Thursday morning and were done by Saturday morning
was cured by 6:00 AM Monday for us to go back to work on it fork trucks and what have you
it looks great just hoping it holds up
it was a two part system a dry part with a liquid catalyst made by Rust-Oleum I will post the part number and the exact name
all the best
S_M
biertourist
Well-Known Member
I used acid and did the Rustoleum 2 part home depot kit about a year ago.
I spent an INSANE amount of time prepping my garage floor with many rounds of pressure washing, acid etching with etching solutions, rinsing, removing oil spots and using muratic acid where necessary.
-Then multiple rounds of drying in between. -Took 3 weekends a few hours each day to prep. (I vacuumed up any dust and then used the "tape test" to check for any dust / dirt, too.)
My feedback is that the HD Rustoleum kit is a very thin application and you're better off buying the same 2 part undercoat separate from the kit and applying it in two layers several days apart per the MFGRs instructions (I think 3 -5 days between applications.)
And only then later applying the top coat. The top coat is a very important part and I've forgotten all the chemical names by now but the thinner, less durable top coat that comes in the kits isn't very thick, isn't drop-resistant and is very prone to UV light degradation and yellowing. -There are some online shops that offer pro-grade clear top coats (can't remember the chemical name) and if I were to do it again this way, I'd probably do 2 undercoats with the flakes only in the 2nd undercoat and then I'd buy a separate professional grade top coat that's UV-resistant.
I'd also add the anti-slip additative to the top coat - I did this at 1/2 the recommended amount and I'm quite happy with that. Adding too much makes sweeping it out a bit more difficult.
I still ended up with 2 sections about 2 1/2 inches in diameter pulling up 6 months later under the tires despite my immaculate prep.
If I were to do it all again, I'd use the machine to rough up the surface -2 undercoats of the cheap stuff and then a pro-grade top coat which requires a little it of skill and a squeegie-like tool.
-Otherwise I'd pay the roughly $1,600 for the pro single application stuff, if I could convince my wife.
Adam
I spent an INSANE amount of time prepping my garage floor with many rounds of pressure washing, acid etching with etching solutions, rinsing, removing oil spots and using muratic acid where necessary.
-Then multiple rounds of drying in between. -Took 3 weekends a few hours each day to prep. (I vacuumed up any dust and then used the "tape test" to check for any dust / dirt, too.)
My feedback is that the HD Rustoleum kit is a very thin application and you're better off buying the same 2 part undercoat separate from the kit and applying it in two layers several days apart per the MFGRs instructions (I think 3 -5 days between applications.)
And only then later applying the top coat. The top coat is a very important part and I've forgotten all the chemical names by now but the thinner, less durable top coat that comes in the kits isn't very thick, isn't drop-resistant and is very prone to UV light degradation and yellowing. -There are some online shops that offer pro-grade clear top coats (can't remember the chemical name) and if I were to do it again this way, I'd probably do 2 undercoats with the flakes only in the 2nd undercoat and then I'd buy a separate professional grade top coat that's UV-resistant.
I'd also add the anti-slip additative to the top coat - I did this at 1/2 the recommended amount and I'm quite happy with that. Adding too much makes sweeping it out a bit more difficult.
I still ended up with 2 sections about 2 1/2 inches in diameter pulling up 6 months later under the tires despite my immaculate prep.
If I were to do it all again, I'd use the machine to rough up the surface -2 undercoats of the cheap stuff and then a pro-grade top coat which requires a little it of skill and a squeegie-like tool.
-Otherwise I'd pay the roughly $1,600 for the pro single application stuff, if I could convince my wife.
Adam
Check out this stuff...I used it in my garage and basement and it works awesome!!
http://www.concretecamouflage.com/
http://www.concretecamouflage.com/
agfisher02
Member
I have done my previous house and my current. In my previous I used the Rustoleum product form HomeDepot and it worked ok. It goes on easy, however will come up from hot tire spots, heavy items, etc.
My new house I used Epoxy Master and it holds up much better. It is not quite as easy to go on as it much thicker than the Rustoleum product, but does not come up. I can scratch through it, but will not come up with hot tires or heavy items. Also holds up well to the hot liquid spills.
As a previous posted said floor prep is the most important thing. I have used the acid etch and a diamond grinder. While the diamond grinder will cost you about $70 to rent for a day it is well worth it in my option. You will have your entire garage ready in less than half a day. Simply go over the floor good, sweep out/up the heavy dust and then pressure wash. I did my 3.5 car garage in about 3 hours, where as the acid wash took me 2 separate weekends due to the several washes and drying.
Also make sure you put some non-slip stuff in your mix or else it will be very slippery when wet. I have used both sand and aluminum oxide and both work well.
My new house I used Epoxy Master and it holds up much better. It is not quite as easy to go on as it much thicker than the Rustoleum product, but does not come up. I can scratch through it, but will not come up with hot tires or heavy items. Also holds up well to the hot liquid spills.
As a previous posted said floor prep is the most important thing. I have used the acid etch and a diamond grinder. While the diamond grinder will cost you about $70 to rent for a day it is well worth it in my option. You will have your entire garage ready in less than half a day. Simply go over the floor good, sweep out/up the heavy dust and then pressure wash. I did my 3.5 car garage in about 3 hours, where as the acid wash took me 2 separate weekends due to the several washes and drying.
Also make sure you put some non-slip stuff in your mix or else it will be very slippery when wet. I have used both sand and aluminum oxide and both work well.
Rhumbline
Well-Known Member
We had a hangar floor done as well as several lab floors. I don't know the product name but it was done professionally and has held up very well to constant abuse.
it looks fantastic, but if I were doing it in my home, I'd want to add some kind of texturing agent to reduce the chance of me killing myself slipping in wort.
it looks fantastic, but if I were doing it in my home, I'd want to add some kind of texturing agent to reduce the chance of me killing myself slipping in wort.
FreddyMar3
Well-Known Member
I ended up doing the standard rustoleum product they sell at HD and am very happy with it so far. I put it on extra thick since the smallest quantity I could buy was still way more than i needed. Used the whole bag of antislip so it's super grippy despite looking very glossy.
So you would put down an inferior product, which IMO is likely to fail, then cover it with an expensive top coat.
Sounds like failure to me......
biertourist
Well-Known Member
"inferior". Most decisions in life involve a cost/ benefit trade-off. (So you'd buy an "inferior" Honda Accord when the Porsche 911 GT3 is on the market?!?! -Sounds like a car purchase failure to me........)
Personally I think the 2 part epoxy undercoat is a fine product and you certainly won't find a better value nor a product that's easier to apply.
It's really the 2 part epoxy top coat that lets you down as it's neither drop nor UV resistant.
I think you can get the best bang-for-the-buck with a quality 2 part epoxy undercoat and a uv and drop-resistant top coat.
If cost, time and ease of application aren't issues then yea, go for a premium product that costs 3x as much (or 10x as much if a professional applies it).
Adam
OK, when you say cheap product for the under coat you aren't talking as cheap as it sounded. Not like painting your house with the cheapest primer then the best paint over it.
Or as your car analogy goes using a 70's sedan chassis and putting a Lamborghini body and engine on top of it.
My garage has the off the shelf 2 part Rustoleum epoxy one it. It has lasted very well for about 10 years so far. Even where the tires run over it is still in good shape. It is more of a satin finish, the current ones are glossy. I think it was about $70 at the time. 1 car garage.
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