Element for Brewer's Hardware element enclosure

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Roadie

Roadie

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For the last couple years I've been using the Brew Hardware element enclosures on my 20 gallon Stout kettles HLT and BK (1.5" TC) however they are flimsy and the tops don't stay screwed on resulting in us having to tighten them constantly. We have to remove the BK element for cleaning each time as the kettle doesn't reach our sink. What we didn't realize is that the constant twisting to tighten the enclosures 2 pieces over the last couple years resulted in one of the 10 ga hot wires breaking. When cleaning the kettle with PBW the element wouldn't fire. I turned the kettle slightly which caused the wire to contact something inside the enclosure that arc'd and popped the breaker. Scared the **** out of me! Upon disconnection and disassembly it melted 1/2 of the plastic element base.

So after that fiasco I ordered a Brewer's Hardware enclosure to try. Holy crap is that thing heavy duty, especially when compared to the Brew Hardware model. However the element threads where it screws into the enclosure are about a 1/2" lower resulting in the end of my Brewmation ripple element where it folds back going a little into the thermowell and touching the side of the kettle. Not sure if this will heat the kettle up at that spot to where it's an issue or not. The Brew Hardware enclosure had the element probably an 1/8" from the side of the kettle and not touching like this new Brewer's Hardware enclosure is doing.

My question (finally) is if you use the Brewer's Hardware enclosure what element are you using with it? Does the fact that the element touches the kettle in the thermowell matter? I can't be the only one with this issue. Help!
 
When I was buying enclosures I couldn't order the Brewers hardware one because it was on backorder. So I bought a couple of the brew hardware enclosures. They are just stamped and flimsy. But I have a tc flange on my kettle so I don't have any problems with the threads getting worn out. I never unscrew the enclosure.

Ebrewsupply and brew hardware are selling all stainless elements now in the fold back variety which should fix your clearance issue.
 
I use their element enclosure for my rims system. I use a basic straight water heater element I got from my local HD. I forget which one I selected but the lowest wattage simply to keep the temp steady during the recirc. Not very efficient step mashes with it though for that same reason...

I dropped my element while cleaning one time and it bent slightly, I just bent it back into its regular straight position. I was afraid I broke it but it seems to be fine several brews later. I don't know if it is condoned, but can't you just pull the element away from wall of your kettle slightly?

But in any case, I love the heavy duty quality of the element enclosure from brewers hardware. I have had no leaks and it fits perfect in my tri clover brewery. I plan on upgrading/replacing the element soon and when I change my kettles to electric I plan on using those same enclosures on the kettles too.

Not sure if straight or ripple is the way to go for electric fired kettles... But I digress. Cheers! :mug:
 
Do you have a picture of the enclosure? I can't find it on their website.
 
If you can bend it gently that might work, but really the element touching the wall will not be an issue as long as everything is submerged in water or wort.

I have a 2" TC port for my element with a Still Dragon enclosure and I highly praise the ease of use and construction quality.

I also have one of the 1.5" TC Brew Hardware enclosures, and while it's a lot cheaper and flimsier it's also more compact. It's acceptable, though, and I haven't had any issues with it unscrewing. Perhaps you have a defective one with loose fitting thread?

Also NorCalBrew sells an element adapter that seems heavy duty and somewhere in between the Brew Hardware and Brewer's Hardware ones in compactness. I don't have experience with it, though.

http://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Heating_Element_Adapter_1.5_Inch_Tri_Clover.html
 
I have a TC Fitting on mine as well and the brew hardware version while a little tight is completely acceptable for me.
 
sandyeggoxj said:
When I was buying enclosures I couldn't order the Brewers hardware one because it was on backorder. So I bought a couple of the brew hardware enclosures. They are just stamped and flimsy. But I have a tc flange on my kettle so I don't have any problems with the threads getting worn out. I never unscrew the enclosure.

Ebrewsupply and brew hardware are selling all stainless elements now in the fold back variety which should fix your clearance issue.
Click to expand...

I guess we should have been unplugging it from the panel and not touching the element enclosure to get it to the brew sink.

Are the fold back elements ULWD 5500 watt?
 
If you have the Brew Hardware enclosure, a simple tiny self tapping screw eliminates the problem of the element enclosure unscrewing.
 
I have the camco linked above. It rusts. One of these days I'll buy one from Bobby. Lwd or ulwd is fine. You'd have to look at the surface area of Bobby's elements. I think that is your best bet.
 
orangehero said:
If you can bend it gently that might work, but really the element touching the wall will not be an issue as long as everything is submerged in water or wort.

I have a 2" TC port for my element with a Still Dragon enclosure and I highly praise the ease of use and construction quality.
Click to expand...

It's actually into the thermowell a little and touching the side of the hole so I can't bend it. I'm hoping that everything will be good. I put some water in it and heated to almost boiling and the TC adapter on the kettle didn't glow red or anything but you wouldn't want to put your hand on it for a length of time.
 
My ripple elements are ULWD and will not rust. Some of our earlier enclosures had fitment issues where the body would be a little loose in the cap but the last few batches are better than ever. I also want to stress that we provide warranty/customer service for any issues you might have so if you got a dud, call me or email me about it.

I understand wanting a thicker walled enclosure and of course I can make them, but I think my current design is at the right pricepoint. Keep your cables out of the way so they are never stepped on.
 
I thought about using these on my build, but liked the rigidness and backbone of adding the 2 gang box with waterproof gasket for my elements and pots.
I have already spilled water/wort on both of my BK and HLT 2 gang boxes both during brewing and during cleanup and I am glad I stuck with the 2 gang box element design as it just seems like it can take more abuse.
To each his own though.

I am also not using SS 5500W elements but I clean up and dry the element bases pretty well after the have been exposed to liquids. I will replace them with SS ones when they start giving trouble. Kal mentions the rusting as well but it has not had any negative effects on any of the beer.
If the 5500watt SS ones had been out when I started this journey however, I would have opted for them. Sadly they were not.
 
BlkWater_brewer said:
Here is another approach to the element cover, the best version I have yet seen.

http://stilldragon.com/index.php/element-guard-kit.html

I have 3 of Bobby's TC enclosures and they work flawless, I did put a small machine screw to hold the cover in place. But for the price, come on...
Click to expand...

I ordered one of these to use with Bobby's 2" TC solder on flange. The Stilldragon threaded portion for the element is too wide and will not fit down into the TC fitting. There isn't enough meat on either the TC fitting or the threaded portion on the element enclosure to machine down to make either fit together.

Real bummer...I'll probably go with the brewers hardware version
 
brum said:
I ordered one of these to use with Bobby's 2" TC solder on flange. The Stilldragon threaded portion for the element is too wide and will not fit down into the TC fitting. There isn't enough meat on either the TC fitting or the threaded portion on the element enclosure to machine down to make either fit together.

Real bummer...I'll probably go with the brewers hardware version
Click to expand...

good to know.

If you want to sell it let me know I need another one anyway and will be ordering this weekend.
 
bbohanon said:
I thought about using these on my build, but liked the rigidness and backbone of adding the 2 gang box with waterproof gasket for my elements and pots.
I have already spilled water/wort on both of my BK and HLT 2 gang boxes both during brewing and during cleanup and I am glad I stuck with the 2 gang box element design as it just seems like it can take more abuse.
To each his own though.
Click to expand...

I'm also about aesthetics in addition to function and never liked how the 2 gang boxes looked. I'm not unhappy I went with an element enclosure but for 1.5" TC like I have there is not a perfect enclosure. I like the heftiness of the Brewer's Hardware enclosure (these things are a beast) but like where the element threads are on the Brew Hardware enclosure.

I also wish there was a foldback element that was ULWD. It seems everyone has an issue with the ripple element's distance to the kettle. If they made the ripple element a couple inches longer so that the metal coming back toward the base didn't come back as far that would be ideal.

I'm going to roll with the Brewer's Hardware replacement touching the side of the TC fitting and hope that it doesn't cause me any issues. Time will tell.
 
Roadie said:
I'm also about aesthetics in addition to function and never liked how the 2 gang boxes looked. I'm not unhappy I went with an element enclosure but for 1.5" TC like I have there is not a perfect enclosure. I like the heftiness of the Brewer's Hardware enclosure (these things are a beast) but like where the element threads are on the Brew Hardware enclosure.

I also wish there was a foldback element that was ULWD. It seems everyone has an issue with the ripple element's distance to the kettle. If they made the ripple element a couple inches longer so that the metal coming back toward the base didn't come back as far that would be ideal.

I'm going to roll with the Brewer's Hardware replacement touching the side of the TC fitting and hope that it doesn't cause me any issues. Time will tell.
Click to expand...

I used the ripple 5500w camco non-ss ones with the 2 gang box on the AIH 2-weld 15 gallon pot for my hlt and 15.5gal keggle and distance to kettle/ keggle with these elements was not an issue at all..the ripples also bend easily in case you have to "compact" it a tad but clearance was not an issue at all with my setup.
 
In my 20 gallon kettles even with the Brew Hardware element enclosure the element where it goes back toward the base was only about an 1/8" or so from touching the kettle. I'd like to see it about an inch further out before it starts to twist back toward base. At that point I'd have plenty of room.
 
brum said:
I ordered one of these to use with Bobby's 2" TC solder on flange. The Stilldragon threaded portion for the element is too wide and will not fit down into the TC fitting. There isn't enough meat on either the TC fitting or the threaded portion on the element enclosure to machine down to make either fit together.

Real bummer...I'll probably go with the brewers hardware version
Click to expand...

I know this thread is old but I was considering the same setup. I'm not sure how a 1" NSPT ended up being wider than the 1 7/8 interior hole of the flange 2" Radius faced TC flange. Maybe the TC flange you had had a smaller interior diameter than the ones avail now?

Has anyone else given this combo a go? Looking to use the camco 02965 with stilldragon enclosure and the 2" radius weld TC fitting.
 
Stumbled across this thread looking for enclosure options. I'm not using TC so that eliminated a lot of my options. I ended up getting a Brew Hardware enclosure because it got the job done and was a good price. Another enclosure I found was from BrewPi, but $87 after shipping was a bit much.
 
It would be nice to find one of these enclosures that has a male plug on the end. The TC makes it easy to remove for cleaning, but you still have the long cord which I have weaved through my stand. I guess unless you make a pigtail.
 
mcgimpkins said:
Do you mean like this? https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/element5500_ripple_tc.htm
Click to expand...

Yeah.. but i only want the TC part with the plugs. that way I can attach it to the dragonstill adapters I already have. I saw those TC elements but decided against buying them to allow cheaper replacement down the line... I can get a normal water heater 4500/5500 element for $30-50 anytime/anywhere but to get the TC elements it was min $75. The way I saw it, $50 adapter + $30 element is the same price except if I kill the element it's only $30 to replace.

Now... if i could get that plug piece with a 2" tri-clamp fitting and just terminals on the other side i'd be set. I'd use the adapter to jumper the plug to the element inside the housing. Best of both worlds, i can unplug the element and remove it without any fuss.
 

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