electronic valves

[Farside]

I found these guys recently. The best price so far that I've found.

$12.50 for a 1/2'' SS Solenoid valve
http://www.tf-valvefittings.com/goods-47.html

$21 for the motorized ball valve equivilent:
http://www.tf-valvefittings.com/goods-13.html

They take PayPal FWIW

 

[BadNewsBrewery]

And they offer the most wiring options. Seems like CR02 would be best - no permanently energized wire like CR03, just a simple switch. The downside is they don't indicate whether the 3-6v,12v,24v is AC or DC...

 

[Farside]

They do both AC and DC by the looks of it.

Wiring diagram CR02 is for DC definitely.

I think CRO3 is for AC controllers as the supply options are 3-6, 12/24 and 220V (220V is mains AC in many parts of the world). The supply is labeled as "IS" rather than +ve and -ve, which are DC only supply terminal labels.

CR04 is also for AC but without an earthing lead which to me says that would be the one for low voltage AC supply.

 

[Farside]

Seeing that 1/2'' copper pipe for plumbing has a typical OD of 5/8'', I guess the correct valve would be the 3/4'' valve. You would then thread the pipe and use teflon tape to seal the join.

 

[Squeeky]

I found these guys recently. The best price so far that I've found.

$12.50 for a 1/2'' SS Solenoid valve
http://www.tf-valvefittings.com/goods-47.html

$21 for the motorized ball valve equivilent:
http://www.tf-valvefittings.com/goods-13.html

They take PayPal FWIW

Thanks for link! I had to buy 50 in order to get them for $17.50, then there was bank fees, and heavy shipping. Might use this in the future as I think these are coming from the same place.

Squeeky

 

[BadNewsBrewery]

50 for a single setup or planning to sell them on the flip?

 

[Squeeky]

I sold them awhile back, in order to get my overall costs down. Sold through them quick and keeping my 2 extra just in case.

 

[alien]

Good links. I had no idea you could get motorized SS valves for those kind of prices. Although I would prefer EPDM over Viton seals, personally, for hot stuff.

 

[Faub007]

These things are only rated for 176 deg and 194 deg F? Am I missing something?

 

[Farside]

The alternatives are also rated at this temperature.

Yes, they won't be suitable for boiling wort however, when do you actually transfer boiling wort? The hottest part of your system will be the outlet of the brew kettle. the valve will be open after you whirlpool the wort and are transferring it to the heat exchanger.

You probably whirlpooled for around 5 mins and let it stand for another 5 mins. anyway, my point is that the wort is not at 212 when it comes out of the kettle. It's probably dropped by a good 15 degrees during this time.

That's still right on the upper edge of these valve's operating parameters but much better than a boiling transfer operation.

 

[BadNewsBrewery]

If you're going for full automation you probably whirlpool or sanitize by pumping the wort back into the kettle at the top tangential to the kettle so it whirlpools. No sense in doing it manually if automation is the goal. You'd pump boiling wort in that scenario.

 

[jpoder]

I found these guys recently. The best price so far that I've found.

$12.50 for a 1/2'' SS Solenoid valve
http://www.tf-valvefittings.com/goods-47.html

$21 for the motorized ball valve equivilent:
http://www.tf-valvefittings.com/goods-13.html

They take PayPal FWIW

These look great (and the price is right) anyone used them with Brewtroller? Which wiring did you order. From the OSCSYS store site it looks like they sell ones with the CR03 config.

 

[Squeeky]

I used cr03, power is constant to valves and when trigger activated the valve opens. This works with spst relays

 

[schaez]

So does anyone have any experience with tf-valvefittings.com? Even the 3-way valves are a really good price.

 

[dallasdb]

Subbed. Will need two valves for propane soon. Brutus 10 here I come!

 

[Namako]

My brewstand is ever evolving... PID temp control was up first, and now I'm going for valve control... then volume control (fill the HLT and Boil Kettle)... then velocity control (1 liter/minute sparge)... and then "finish" by tying it all together with full automation (BrewTroller, BCS-462, or some other).

I have a couple of questions on electronic valves, and excuse me if I sound a lot like I look...

1) What is the difference between an electronic valve and a solenoid valve? Both seem to do the same thing - open and close when told - but there's a significant difference in price, electronic being more expensive.

2) On the 3-Way L-Port Motorized Ball Valve, it looks like the flow is being directed one of two directions - either to the left or to the right (for the lack of better descriptors). Do they also shut off entirely, or are they always open to flow, and only the direction can change? I need a valve to either be closed (no flow), open-left (HLT), or open-right (MT). If the 3-way won't shut off, then I'll need to put a 2-way valve in front of it.

Thanks, all!
Michael

 

[BadNewsBrewery]

As far as #2, I played that game and searched for a 3-way valve with 3 options (1/2/closed) and found nothing. So yes - two two-way valves are needed.

 

[Namako]

As far as #2, I played that game and searched for a 3-way valve with 3 options (1/2/closed) and found nothing. So yes - two two-way valves are needed.

How about an electronic 4-way valve?

 

[jpoder]

I'm not sure why there don't seem to be 3 way valves that have a shut-off position...seems very useful, and probably not *that* expensive to implement.

Solenoid valves typically have a small pin that shuts off flow...when you energize the solenoid it pulls the pin so that liquid flows. The problem is that they seem to all have very small ports...they may be 1/2 inch valves or whatever, but the hole for liquid to flow through is (at least in the one I ordered) about 1/16". The way this is set up will make this VERY hard to clean as well. I learned this after ordering one as I too just saw the cheap prices. I ended up ordering the electronic ball valves from the link earlier in this thread.

 

[psbuckland]

This thread on Black Heart Brewery discusses the drawbacks of solenoid valves.


https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/automated-herms-system-132119/

 

[Namako]

I'm not sure why there don't seem to be 3 way valves that have a shut-off position...seems very useful, and probably not *that* expensive to implement.

Solenoid valves typically have a small pin that shuts off flow...when you energize the solenoid it pulls the pin so that liquid flows. The problem is that they seem to all have very small ports...they may be 1/2 inch valves or whatever, but the hole for liquid to flow through is (at least in the one I ordered) about 1/16". The way this is set up will make this VERY hard to clean as well. I learned this after ordering one as I too just saw the cheap prices. I ended up ordering the electronic ball valves from the link earlier in this thread.

WHEW!!! I guess I dodged another chance to prove that there really IS such a thing as a stupid question!

Thanks for the clarity... I figured I'd be getting what I paid for if I went with the electrical valves, but just wasn't sure of what that additional value would be. Just getting a full-port valve is enough, as I have a handful of stainless steel 2-way manual valves sitting in a box in the garage because they weren't full port... didn't see that feature NOT being mentioned in the description as I ordered a bunch of them

Thanks!!

 

[jpalarchio]

On the 3-Way L-Port Motorized Ball Valve, it looks like the flow is being directed one of two directions - either to the left or to the right (for the lack of better descriptors). Do they also shut off entirely, or are they always open to flow, and only the direction can change? I need a valve to either be closed (no flow), open-left (HLT), or open-right (MT). If the 3-way won't shut off, then I'll need to put a 2-way valve in front of it.

3-way valves come either "L" or "T" configurations. In the "L" configuration, the flow is always open between two ports; in the "T" configuration, the valve can generally be rotated so it's fully shut off.

Not sure if there are automated valves offered in the "T" configuration but this was my experience when purchasing manual valves.

See configurations below:

 

[Namako]

jpalarchio - Yeah, it's that LAST one on the L-port that I'm trying to find implemented in an electronic valve, e.g., all flow stopped, but I haven't been able to identify an electronic valve that offers that state, only the first two (flow right, flow left).

Unless I'm missing something in all the advertisements... maybe it's "assumed" that there is an "off" state?

 

[jpalarchio]

BTW, as far as full port or reduced port on ball valves, look at the connectors on your March pump; it's reduced port. So I'm not sure full or reduced port really matters (solenoids are another story).

 

[heapyjeepy]

The rating for http://www.tf-valvefittings.com/goods-27.html are 0°-100°C (32°-212°F) right? So im not understanding why there is any issue with these valves?

 

[schaez]

Did anyone ever buy any valves from tf-valvefittings.com?

 

[twalsh]

I bought from them. Prices/shipping were reasonable and the whole process only took a couple weeks. I haven't tried out the valves yet, but having a paypal option was a big plus for me.

 

[schaez]

Thanks. It saves money but I wanted to at least get a little feedback before ordering.

 

[kickflip_mj]

I have them but have not used them yet, Sorry.

 

[twalsh]

Thanks. It saves money but I wanted to at least get a little feedback before ordering.

I tried the valve today and it works. So, that should give you a little more confidence.