Electric Valves and switches

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TonySerniotti

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Anyone ever tried, or have any knowledge if it would work to use the oscsys 24v ball valve with a 24V, 3 pos, spring, RTC switch?

I'm thinking I could wire the red wire to one side of the switch and the yellow wire to the other side and use the switch to meter flow since the power to open and/or close would be controlled by the switch.

I have zero experience with these valves or switches, but I'm in the planning stages of my Brutus clone and would really like to incorporate electric valves to control the flow if I can find valves at this price that can be made to stop in a partial open position without causing damage to actuator.

Thanks in advance. :mug:
 
it's trickier because the switch you show is momentary, and the oscsys use's the third wire for control. Under a normal install, you'd always supply power and ground to the red and blue lines, and then set the yellow to either power or ground to open and close. The trick comes in that with power connected, the valve will continue running until it is fully open or fully closed, the direction depending on that yellow wire. So to get it to stop somewhere in between, you'll need to cut the power to the valve.

If you want to go with the setup you're describing, I think you'll need to change the two N.C. switch blocks out to N.O. That should be readilly accomplished with a philips head screwdriver.

The you use the first set of NO contacts to only apply power to the red wire when the switch is actuated, and the second set such that it applies ground to the yellow wire one direction, and power the other direction. when the switch returns to center, power is cut off the valve and it stays in position.
 
The switch comes with two NO and two NC.

I figured the same thing. Red to Blue on one NO and Yellow to Blue on the other, but if I need Red Yellow and Blue to open the valve and only Red and Blue to close it, I'll have to rethink this a bit.

Anyone know if what I'm proposing will damage the actuator?

I'm going to use the valve either way, and if need be, just meter down with manual valves after, but that just doesn't seem as cool :D.
 
Yeah, so on the switch you would need to remove the two NC switch blocks and add one NO block (they sell them seperate - http://www.automationdirect.com/adc...shbutton_Accessories/Contact_Blocks/ECX1040-2)


Your connections would have to go like this:

Blue: connected direct to ground
Yellow: connected to both NO block; One block to ground, the other to +24v
Red: connected to two other NO blocks; both to +24v

Pretending that picture consists of all NO blocks, the first layer would power the RED wire, the second layer would power the yellow wire.
 

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