earlingy
Member
Just thought I'd explain my setup here, for anyone looking for a similarly simple electric kettle, for the least money and without advanced electrical knowledge. My goal for this project was to brew electric, without using the kitchen, for as cheap as possible, and simple enough that me (a dummy) could do it. I read all about SSRs and PWMs and PIDs and all this, but I'm just not smart enough or devoted enough to figure it out. I wanted 240V, but GFCI protection costs quite a bit more for it, so that was out. I also wanted to be able to get everything I needed at the local home improvement store (except the BoilCoil).
Of course, if you attempt anything written below, do all wiring to code, call an electrician to check your work, and I am not responsible for your death when you fail to do so. Additionally, if you see something wrong with my setup, I'd appreciate your input!
First off, I am using a Blichmann BoilCoil 10 gallon 120v. It's 2250W, meaning you can run it on a 20A circuit, though only for less than 3 hours. I removed the twist lock L5-20P plug that came on the cable, and attached a standard 5-20P plug, rated for 20A. 5-20P has one sideways prong and one vertical prong. DO NOT use a 5-15P plug, with two vertical prongs, it is only rated for 15A. It doesn't matter which of the two hot wires go to which side, as long as the green ground wire goes into the ground prong. (If you do not know which one is the ground prong, stop now.) To prove that it doesn't matter, the BoilCoil connector is actually reversible.
Next, I added a new 20A, 120V, GFCI protected circuit to my breaker box, using yellow Romex, 12 gauge. Do not use white romex, which is 14 gauge, and only rated for 15 amps. I used a standard 20A breaker and a GFCI outlet, because it was cheaper than getting a 20A GFCI breaker. Do not try to do any of this without using GFCI protection. There is nothing else on this circuit. I also wired the GFCI outlet to a light switch rated for 20A. Again, ensure your switch is rated for 20A, most are only 15A. My switch and outlet are in the same wall box, with one cover, for easy operation. It's in my garage, right next to the breaker box too. Turns out it's nice to have a dedicated, switched 20A outlet in the garage for tools, air compressor, etc. As with any new circuit, get an outlet tester, test that the switch turns the outlet on and off correctly, and test the GFCI outlet before using the BoilCoil.
So the final setup is operated in this fashion:
1. Check that switch is off.
2. Add water to kettle.
3. Plug in cable to the BoilCoil/kettle connector and the wall.
4. Switch on the wall switch.
This can only be ran at full power. 2250W is never too much, so you only ever need full strength. It is a bit slow to bring water to mash and strike temps, and it just barely achieves a full rolling boil with my 6.5 gallons of wort. It does boil off about a gallon an hour on my 10 gallon kettle, which is a little wider than the average brew kettle. I read about people's BoilCoils only working if controlled with a Blichmann controller, well that is false. This is nothing more than a really fancy water heater element. I only chose it because I liked the ultra ultra low density, and the fact that it is the highest wattage 120v element I could find. This is simple enough that anyone with basic electrical knowledge can do it, and it met my need to replace the propane burner with electric. The only thing to be mindful of is that all your components are rated for 20A. Most 120V stuff is only rated for 15A, so you have to watch out.
Of course, if you attempt anything written below, do all wiring to code, call an electrician to check your work, and I am not responsible for your death when you fail to do so. Additionally, if you see something wrong with my setup, I'd appreciate your input!
First off, I am using a Blichmann BoilCoil 10 gallon 120v. It's 2250W, meaning you can run it on a 20A circuit, though only for less than 3 hours. I removed the twist lock L5-20P plug that came on the cable, and attached a standard 5-20P plug, rated for 20A. 5-20P has one sideways prong and one vertical prong. DO NOT use a 5-15P plug, with two vertical prongs, it is only rated for 15A. It doesn't matter which of the two hot wires go to which side, as long as the green ground wire goes into the ground prong. (If you do not know which one is the ground prong, stop now.) To prove that it doesn't matter, the BoilCoil connector is actually reversible.
Next, I added a new 20A, 120V, GFCI protected circuit to my breaker box, using yellow Romex, 12 gauge. Do not use white romex, which is 14 gauge, and only rated for 15 amps. I used a standard 20A breaker and a GFCI outlet, because it was cheaper than getting a 20A GFCI breaker. Do not try to do any of this without using GFCI protection. There is nothing else on this circuit. I also wired the GFCI outlet to a light switch rated for 20A. Again, ensure your switch is rated for 20A, most are only 15A. My switch and outlet are in the same wall box, with one cover, for easy operation. It's in my garage, right next to the breaker box too. Turns out it's nice to have a dedicated, switched 20A outlet in the garage for tools, air compressor, etc. As with any new circuit, get an outlet tester, test that the switch turns the outlet on and off correctly, and test the GFCI outlet before using the BoilCoil.
So the final setup is operated in this fashion:
1. Check that switch is off.
2. Add water to kettle.
3. Plug in cable to the BoilCoil/kettle connector and the wall.
4. Switch on the wall switch.
This can only be ran at full power. 2250W is never too much, so you only ever need full strength. It is a bit slow to bring water to mash and strike temps, and it just barely achieves a full rolling boil with my 6.5 gallons of wort. It does boil off about a gallon an hour on my 10 gallon kettle, which is a little wider than the average brew kettle. I read about people's BoilCoils only working if controlled with a Blichmann controller, well that is false. This is nothing more than a really fancy water heater element. I only chose it because I liked the ultra ultra low density, and the fact that it is the highest wattage 120v element I could find. This is simple enough that anyone with basic electrical knowledge can do it, and it met my need to replace the propane burner with electric. The only thing to be mindful of is that all your components are rated for 20A. Most 120V stuff is only rated for 15A, so you have to watch out.
