Electric Brewing Supply - 360 Series 2-element Control Panel

[lmr275rgr]

Does anyone have the wiring diagram for the Electric Brewing Supply - 360 Series 2-element Control Panel. I have 240V thorough out the controller until it gets to the DIN Rail Connecter going to my HLT and BK element plug inlet. With a regular multi meter it reads fine but with a LoZ meter, it is not getting the correct voltage. I looked on the site but did not see any for this model. Thanks

 

[Bobby_M]

Did you actually have a problem with the operation of the controller? I'm 99% sure that Low Z mode doesn't work on SCR (how the SSR works) circuits. What if you set the meter to AC volts?

The reason your image1(2) is correctly showing 120v between L1 and Ground is that it's the hot line that DOESN'T go through the SSR.

In other words, it looks like you don't have a problem.

 

[lmr275rgr]

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[lmr275rgr]

Did you actually have a problem with the operation of the controller? I'm 99% sure that Low Z mode doesn't work on SCR (how the SSR works) circuits. What if you set the meter to AC volts?

The reason your image1(2) is correctly showing 120v between L1 and Ground is that it's the hot line that DOESN'T go through the SSR.

In other words, it looks like you don't have a problem.

Hope this makes sense. With a Voltage Meter I check the end of the end of the element power cord and get 240V between the two hot (white and black) and 124 between ground and hot (green and black, green and white). (All is good) When I connect it to a 240V, 5500w element (partially plugged in) and check with a load on it, both hot black and white are 0 volts and both hot with ground are 124V.

 

[Bobby_M]

Is that when the meter is in LOW Z mode or set to AC volts?
When you put a load on the cable with the element, does it heat when the controller is calling for heat?
If not, can you verify that the SSR is getting 12 VDC on the control terminals?
If yes, can you verify that the red LED on the SSR is lit?

 

[doug293cz]

Your readings appear to be consistent with an SSR that is not turning on, so @Bobby_M 's advice to look at the input voltage on the SSR control inputs (terminals 3 & 4) is a good place to start. The SSR should turn on if the control input voltage is greater than 3V (DC), even tho the nominal voltage for most PID control outputs is ~12V. If the light on the SSR comes on, that just means that the SSR is receiving an adequate control input. It does not mean that the SSR is actually working, as the TRIAC, which is the actual power switch, is electrically isolated from the control input (they are optically coupled.) If the TRIAC, or it's triggering circuit in the SSR, has failed, the light on the SSR will still come on when a valid control voltage is applied.

If you want to test the SSR independently of the PID, you can disconnect the wires from SSR terminals 3 & 4, and connect a nine volt battery (make sure you get the polarity right) to terminals 3 & 4, which should turn the SSR on unless it has failed. With this test you should measure ~240 volts across L1 & L2 at the element (partially plugged in.)

Brew on

 

[lmr275rgr]

Is that when the meter is in LOW Z mode or set to AC volts?
When you put a load on the cable with the element, does it heat when the controller is calling for heat?
If not, can you verify that the SSR is getting 12 VDC on the control terminals?
If yes, can you verify that the red LED on the SSR is lit?

used voltage meter. End of element power cord has 240V on hots, and 124V and 120 on other to legs. When I plug in element it does not get hot. With 0V hots and 123V on other two legs.

 

[lmr275rgr]

Your readings appear to be consistent with an SSR that is not turning on, so @Bobby_M 's advice to look at the input voltage on the SSR control inputs (terminals 3 & 4) is a good place to start. The SSR should turn on if the control input voltage is greater than 3V (DC), even tho the nominal voltage for most PID control outputs is ~12V. If the light on the SSR comes on, that just means that the SSR is receiving an adequate control input. It does not mean that the SSR is actually working, as the TRIAC, which is the actual power switch, is electrically isolated from the control input (they are optically coupled.) If the TRIAC, or it's triggering circuit in the SSR, has failed, the light on the SSR will still come on when a valid control voltage is applied.

If you want to test the SSR independently of the PID, you can disconnect the wires from SSR terminals 3 & 4, and connect a nine volt battery (make sure you get the polarity right) to terminals 3 & 4, which should turn the SSR on unless it has failed. With this test you should measure ~240 volts across L1 & L2 at the element (partially plugged in.)

Brew on

Thanks. The SSR light does not turn on and getting 1.24V. How does the PID affect the SSR. @Bobby_M