Electric Bottom Draining, 3 keggle, 2 pump, E-HERMS

[jcc4507fly]

Also, ditching my counter-flow & immersion chiller. Just ran a test run for my "chill loop".

Late in the boil I plan to recirc my boiling wort through my wort pump, HERMS coil, then at my MLT return, attach a hose to scavenge the wort to return it to the boil kettle. This will kill any possible bacteria.

BOIL KETTLE----MLT----HLT
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Then at knockout, I will add ice & water to the HLT and use it as a reverse immersion coil. I will recirc the ice water in a closed loop in the HLT to minimize stratification. During my test I was able to reduce the time to chill by 75%. With my counterflow only it took about 1 hour to chill 6 gallons of wort. If I used counter-flow and my immersion chiller it took about 30-40 min. Mind you I live on the gulf coast and the ground water here is about 80 degrees out of tap. And the immersion chiller wastes A LOT of water!!

During the test I was able to use the "chill loop" to cool the total volume of 7.5 gallons below 140 in 3 minutes. Furthermore I was able to chill the wort exiting the coil to 68* within 10-15min. And by not using the immersion chiller I'll save about 160 gallons of water. Pretty good improvement! Anyone with cold ground water want to buy a counterflow???

In theory during recirculation and chilling I should be able to use my BK filter to filter out cold break and any hop particulate that is in the finished wort. Just one more plus imo. I'll repost if and how this worked next brew.

 

[BrunDog]

Not sure that pipe seal is food safe. You might want to check. Needs an NSF symbol or state potable water explicitly. "Water" is not the same as "drinkable water".

 

[jcc4507fly]

As stated in the previous post it is definitely drinking water safe. Maybe it's not clear in the picture, but it is labeled as Certified ANSI/NSF 61, which is drinking water safe.

Edited previous post with this info since it was not 100% clear how to determine whether or not the paste is drinking water safe.

 

[cod3ck]

Thanks for sharing! I think I found my dream system!

One question though -- how painful/costly (in perspective) would it be to use food safe SS piping and tri-clamps on all the hard pipe fittings (rather then thread connections)?

 

[BrunDog]

Good point. Looking good!

-BD

 

[jcc4507fly]

BrewApprentice: I priced out a section in sanitary stainless vs. threaded stainless. It was significantly cheaper for threaded. Maybe someday I'll be able to afford all sanitary. But for now it's threaded pipe for me.

BD- My comment wasn't meant to be snarky. Only trying to clarify for the next guy that may come along. I appreciate the feedback and criticism from the community. Also, I know I don't think of EVERY detail. However, I try to take the time to plan and learn as much as possible. Thanks for the comments and keep them coming!

 

[BrunDog]

I didn't think it was snarky - no prob! I was sincere when I said its looking good!

 

[30Bones]

@jcc4507fly can you get a measurement from the base of your kettle to where your element is located? I have a full false bottom and filter stand and don't want it to be too close. Or does that not really matter in a BK? 2" above the false bottom and call it good?

 

[jcc4507fly]

I'll put my false bottom and stand in and take a pic. The closer the element to the bottom the harder it will be to get the false bottom in/out without having to remove the element EVERY brew day. I'll also get you a measurement of how far off the bottom my element is.

 

[jcc4507fly]

From base to bottom of element fitting is 4".
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Mine is very tight and I have to remove my element to install/remove false bottom. I normally remove it anyway to clean but keep that in mind.
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My other two bulkheads are 4.25" from the base. Keep these fittings and what you plan on mounting in them in mind during your build. I have to position my false bottom just right for it to clear my digital temp probe & my thermometer probe. This won't be an issue once I install my sight glass on the front bulkhead. Then the thermometer won't stick out into the kettle as far.

 

[30Bones]

Thanks, much higher than I expected. Much appreciated

 

[jcc4507fly]

Thanks, much higher than I expected. Much appreciated

That's as low as I could get it without welding the ferrel into the natural bend of the keg. But if I would've welded it just a little higher it would probably be easier.

 

[30Bones]

That's as low as I could get it without welding the ferrel into the natural bend of the keg. And IMO it's perfect and works for me. But if I would've welded it just a little higher it would probably be easier.

First time I viewed this the pics weren't there and in my head I was thinking 4" off the false bottom. The pics make it much more clear and where I was hoping to be able to drill the hole. I am going weldless, but same principle.

Had you went with a straight element I bet the FB would come out while the element was still in place.

 

[jcc4507fly]

Yeah sorry about that. I accidentally sent it mid post. Then had to edit.

But yes with a straight element it would be much easier to install/remove the false bottom. None the less and be it a pita, I'm still happy that my element is at the lowest point in the kettle wall and that I can manage getting the false bottom below it. I didn't originally plan on having a full FB in the BK.

 

[JonW]

Your build looks fantastic! I really like how you built the plumbing into the stand and hid a lot of the components underneath. It really gives it a very clean look. While electric systems bring a bit more complexity in wiring versus gas systems, you gain a lot of flexibility in materials and mounting by not needing to worry about high reflective heat from burners. Those benefits of electric stand out here in the way it is all tucked away. Looking forward to hear about the maiden brew day.

 

[jcc4507fly]

Thanks JonW. I plan to set her free this week. Plan on brewing a Porter.

 

[Calfj60]

Where did you purchase all the ss pipe?

 

[jcc4507fly]

Part from a buddy in Louisana that deals with oil field. They custom cut and threaded the longer odd sizes in 316 ss.

The other normal lengths are from Mainland Valve in Houston. Good guys there! They let me go out in their shop and dry fit and pull my own pipe. And they have a website if you aren't so lucky to live in the area. And reasonable prices.

 

[jcc4507fly]

Maiden brew day went exceptionally well!
Brewing a Robust Porter.

Mashing:

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Ramping up for mash out! Target temp is the green needle.
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[Calfj60]

Awesome, thanks for the info!

 

[BrunDog]

Nice work!

 

[Simphoto02]

So what is the status of this system? VERY interested in this

 

[jcc4507fly]

It’s been a while, but I’m getting back at it. A thing called life, (kiddos, job, and a move) slowed my ability to brew.

One plus is I now have a more dedicated space in my shop for brewing. Not a ton of changes to the hot side of the Brewery itself. I did install a floor drain which is great for cleanup on brew days. Dedicated circuits for Brewhouse, keezer, glycol chiller, and brew plugs.

Most of the improvements come on the fermentation and serving side of the Brewery. I added a couple SS Brewtech Conicals. I opted to use a glycol chiller and built a manifold to keep beers at temp during fermentation, since it is hot down here in the South most of the year. I also added a Tilt Bluetooth Hydrometer, which I love.

If anyone is building a similar system or is interested, I will write up a post on things I would do different throughout the Brewery.