eBrew design help

[Craig Bird]

Looking for assistance in designing my setup and determine what I need. I have a 50W 240V outlet that is 25 feet from where I need to brew so I would like to use a 25' 240V extension cord to power the setup. If I go with 120v outlet, I only have 20W circuits available.

Parameters:
1 -Primarily doing 2.5 gal batches with the ability to do 5 gal
2 -Automatic control of temperatures (just to obtain or maintain set point in the simplest, most cost-effective way)
3 - BIAB

Questions::
1) Size of boil pot. Is there a good reason to ditch my desire for occasional 5 gal batches?
2) Heating element size?
3) What is the simplest setup I can design to achieve #2 in a cost-effective manner? (avid DIY'er when armed with good info)
4) False bottom or raised stainless basket needed?

Appreciate your help, cheers!

 

[doug293cz]

Looking for assistance in designing my setup and determine what I need. I have a 50W 240V outlet that is 25 feet from where I need to brew so I would like to use a 25' 240V extension cord to power the setup. If I go with 120v outlet, I only have 20W circuits available.

Parameters:
1 -Primarily doing 2.5 gal batches with the ability to do 5 gal
2 -Automatic control of temperatures (just to obtain or maintain set point in the simplest, most cost-effective way)
3 - BIAB

Questions::
1) Size of boil pot. Is there a good reason to ditch my desire for occasional 5 gal batches?
2) Heating element size?
3) What is the simplest setup I can design to achieve #2 in a cost-effective manner? (avid DIY'er when armed with good info)
4) False bottom or raised stainless basket needed?

Appreciate your help, cheers!

1) If you only want to do occasional 5 gal batches, a 7.5 - 8 gal pot will suffice. Won't work well for 5 gal batches of high OG beers however.

2) For 2.5 gal batches, a 2000W element will suffice, and you can run it from a 20A/120V circuit.

3) More below.

4) No false bottom or basket needed if you don't recirculate. Without recirculation, mash temp control depends on good insulation. Lots of BIABers use towels, blankets, sleeping bags, etc. You can also make a simple box out of foam insulation board that you can drop over the kettle during the mash. If you recirculate, then a basket or false bottom will be necessary.


Here's about the simplest controller design that I would recommend:

240V version supporting up to 5500W element. If plugged into 50A outlet, will need 30A circuit breaker or fuses added.

120V version, supporting up to 2000W element. This design also contains a switch and outlet to control a pump.

Here's a more capable controller that can drive a 5500W element, and a 120V pump. It also has a "safe start" circuit that prevents main power from being turned on if either the pump or element switch is on. It also uses a higher end EZBoil controller that allows automated step mashing. This is the one I am building for myself.

Brew on

 

[Craig Bird]

Wow, amazing replies thank you much. Since you are building the last one, do you have a parts list?

 

[doug293cz]

Wow, amazing replies thank you much. Since you are building the last one, do you have a parts list?

It's going to depend on whether you want to use DIN rail components, or components that ad hoc mount to the back panel of the enclosure. Do you know which you prefer?

Brew on

 

[Craig Bird]

It's going to depend on whether you want to use DIN rail components, or components that ad hoc mount to the back panel of the enclosure. Do you know which you prefer?

Brew on

I know not of what you speak

 

[jdudek]

1) If you only want to do occasional 5 gal batches, a 7.5 - 8 gal pot will suffice. Won't work well for 5 gal batches of high OG beers however.

2) For 2.5 gal batches, a 2000W element will suffice, and you can run it from a 20A/120V circuit.

3) More below.

4) No false bottom or basket needed if you don't recirculate. Without recirculation, mash temp control depends on good insulation. Lots of BIABers use towels, blankets, sleeping bags, etc. You can also make a simple box out of foam insulation board that you can drop over the kettle during the mash. If you recirculate, then a basket or false bottom will be necessary.


Here's about the simplest controller design that I would recommend:

240V version supporting up to 5500W element. If plugged into 50A outlet, will need 30A circuit breaker or fuses added.

View attachment 714599

120V version, supporting up to 2000W element. This design also contains a switch and outlet to control a pump.

View attachment 714602

Here's a more capable controller that can drive a 5500W element, and a 120V pump. It also has a "safe start" circuit that prevents main power from being turned on if either the pump or element switch is on. It also uses a higher end EZBoil controller that allows automated step mashing. This is the one I am building for myself.

View attachment 714603

Brew on

I'm curious if there's an advantage to using a power on switch+contactor for the main power vs one of those breaker type switches that supports high amperage.. one of these:

 

[doug293cz]

I'm curious if there's an advantage to using a power on switch+contactor for the main power vs one of those breaker type switches that supports high amperage.. one of these:
View attachment 714785

The breaker type switches cannot be used as part of a safe start circuit.

Brew on

 

[Craig Bird]

It's going to depend on whether you want to use DIN rail components, or components that ad hoc mount to the back panel of the enclosure. Do you know which you prefer?

Brew on

I know not of what you speak

I am down for your recommendation. Thx

 

[Craig Bird]

It's going to depend on whether you want to use DIN rail components, or components that ad hoc mount to the back panel of the enclosure. Do you know which you prefer?

Brew on

After reviewing both options, I think ad hoc in order to avoid special tools to buy and extra cost.