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Easy Stovetop All-Grain Brewing (with pics)

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Haha, I've lost count of how many times I have read your tutorial the last few days, but today is the first time I noticed your poster! That's awesome!
 
I'm new and always reading posts, yours are always top notch. Thanks, and keep up the good work
 
Seriously considering trying this with a smaller batch. Will a 5 gallon paint strainer work as well as the 24" by 24" bag. I'll be using a 4 gallon pot.
 
Seriously considering trying this with a smaller batch. Will a 5 gallon paint strainer work as well as the 24" by 24" bag. I'll be using a 4 gallon pot.

Yes just make sure you check to see that your grain/water will fit the pot (the bag will take some room too).

http://www.rackers.org/calcs.shtml (third one down)

You won't be able to make any high gravity beers unless it's a partial mash.
 
Yes just make sure you check to see that your grain/water will fit the pot (the bag will take some room too).

http://www.rackers.org/calcs.shtml (third one down)

You won't be able to make any high gravity beers unless it's a partial mash.

Or unless another pot is added. I do full mashes for 5 gallon batches in my 7.5 gallon pot. I do 10 gallon mashes by using a second 7.5 gallon pot. :)
 
I just read all the pages in about a week, bored a lot. I plan on doing some 3G SMaSH's with that. Quick question though for those that use irish moss, does the recommended amount coagulate the extra proteins that the mash doesn't filter? I know it should settle all the proteins from the traditional method, but BIAB doesn't filter it out from the mash nearly as well. Not worried about extra trub or anything, that just a given.
 
I just read all the pages in about a week, bored a lot. I plan on doing some 3G SMaSH's with that. Quick question though for those that use irish moss, does the recommended amount coagulate the extra proteins that the mash doesn't filter? I know it should settle all the proteins from the traditional method, but BIAB doesn't filter it out from the mash nearly as well. Not worried about extra trub or anything, that just a given.

This isn't directly answering your question, but for what it's worth, I noticed no difference in clarity when I went from extract batches to stovetop BIAB using this method (using a tsp. of irish moss).
 
I would say it leads me strongly in the right direction. Since I plan on doing 3 gallon batches, I figured I could just do 3/4 tsp. and have my bases covered. I think the people complaining about a protein layer above the trub were usually lacking irish moss, so I figured it would settle out with it. I can't do a cold crash, so I was a little worried with the few reports of it in this thread.
 
I would say it leads me strongly in the right direction. Since I plan on doing 3 gallon batches, I figured I could just do 3/4 tsp. and have my bases covered. I think the people complaining about a protein layer above the trub were usually lacking irish moss, so I figured it would settle out with it. I can't do a cold crash, so I was a little worried with the few reports of it in this thread.

My experience is that a good, fast cold break will influence final clarity more than the clarity of the wort as you start fermentation (even without cold crashing). I'm stuck doing an cold water and ice bath for the time being, and I get hazier beers than when I was using a wort chiller -- I had pretty clear beers then, stovetop BIAB and all.
 
Thanks for the tutorial - brewing my first batch (2.5 gallons of Denny's Rye IPA). I figure my efficiency was around 75%, so I'm pretty happy. My AG efficiencies doing a full mash and batch sparge were not as good -this is a nice way to perfect the technique.
 
i used your method last night for a Brown Derby Day Ale..... i'm a beginner and this was incredibly easy. Used 6 lbs of grain at 1.25g/lb in a four gallon kettle, wrapped in towels during mash, totally stable temps. i'd projected losing about a gallon to the mash but with less grain and good drainage that didnt happen. so after dunking was just short of 4G when all the wort was together..... think i hit the max capacity for my small apartment stove. eventually got a good boil going, hopped, cooled and pitched..... this morning the yeast is roiling away and the kitchen is in pretty good shape! this method is very streamlined and will be easy to do again (and again:)) thanks DeathBrewer for a great tutorial and continuing guidance.... this is truly a terrific adaptation of the method for a small space brewer and it opens up unlimited possibilities.
happy! yeast is rockin' away:)
 
I really think this ought to be a sticky. The BIAB that *is* a sticky is fine once you actually read it, but the fancy equipment that it uses immediately sends the incorrect message that it is going to be well beyond the means of beginning amateur.

But, hey! What happened to the pics?
 
How would one do FWH with this method? Would you just add the hops after the sparge and before you start the boil? Anyone tried that?
 
I've done it a few times. I toss the hops in the pot right after I lift out the bag. Seems to work just fine.
 
I am planning on my first BIAB. I have a 9 gallon kettle and 10 lb grain bill. I would like to do a full boil single infusion mash. The recipe calls for 6.5 pre boil volume, How much water should I start the mash with to get there?

I am think 7-7.5 gallon should be OK and hopefully once the grain goes in the kettle won't overfill.

Any advice would be helpful?
 
Is there any problems with heating the 1st runnings in your brew kettle while you are sparging? I'm thinking it will help to streamline and shorten the brewday if I have these almost to boiling prior to adding the 2nd runnings.
 
Just wondering if there is anything wrong with heating up sparge water in a couple of pots then putting the water and grains in plastic ferment pale for 10 mins..sanitized of course.

Total BIAB newb here.
 
That sounds fine. I've been doing side-by-side small batches recently and I heat my water on the stove, and BIAB mash in a bucket while I work on cleanup and the next batch.

The beauty of this system is that it will work with whatever equipment you have available. You just have to find the process that works best for you and your space.
 
Is there any problems with heating the 1st runnings in your brew kettle while you are sparging? I'm thinking it will help to streamline and shorten the brewday if I have these almost to boiling prior to adding the 2nd runnings.

+1 bump. I too have been wondering this
 
Is there any problems with heating the 1st runnings in your brew kettle while you are sparging? I'm thinking it will help to streamline and shorten the brewday if I have these almost to boiling prior to adding the 2nd runnings.

Nope, go for it. Saves time and hurts nothing.

Just wondering if there is anything wrong with heating up sparge water in a couple of pots then putting the water and grains in plastic ferment pale for 10 mins..sanitized of course.

Total BIAB newb here.

As long as the water/grains aren't much hotter than mash temp there's no problem with this. There's also no need to sanitize it, you're going to boil the wort anyways. Just make sure it's clean.
 
This post has me riveted. I can' wait to get a 6 gallon pot. This is just what I needed. I learned today that AG is much cheaper than PM. With that being said, I thought I wouldn't be able to get to AG for a very long time considering my resources at home. Now that I have found this thread, the prospect of doing all grain are great!
 
This post has me riveted. I can' wait to get a 6 gallon pot. This is just what I needed. I learned today that AG is much cheaper than PM. With that being said, I thought I wouldn't be able to get to AG for a very long time considering my resources at home. Now that I have found this thread, the prospect of doing all grain are great!

I hope you just mistyped that because with a 6 gallon pot you will be limited to slightly less than 4 gallons of beer in a batch. An 8 gallon pot would give you room for the amount needed to account for boil off in the hour long boil plus headroom for the hot break foam but just barely. Bigger would be better.

Or am I misunderstanding what your 6 gallon pot would be used for?
 
I hope you just mistyped that because with a 6 gallon pot you will be limited to slightly less than 4 gallons of beer in a batch. An 8 gallon pot would give you room for the amount needed to account for boil off in the hour long boil plus headroom for the hot break foam but just barely. Bigger would be better.

Or am I misunderstanding what your 6 gallon pot would be used for?

Yeah, I did 5 gallon batches in a 7.5 gallon pot and it was a little nerve-wracking sometimes due to pre-boil volume and the potential for boilovers. Doable for sure, but the bigger the better.
 
I hope you just mistyped that because with a 6 gallon pot you will be limited to slightly less than 4 gallons of beer in a batch. An 8 gallon pot would give you room for the amount needed to account for boil off in the hour long boil plus headroom for the hot break foam but just barely. Bigger would be better.

Or am I misunderstanding what your 6 gallon pot would be used for?

Yeah, I did 5 gallon batches in a 7.5 gallon pot and it was a little nerve-wracking sometimes due to pre-boil volume and the potential for boilovers. Doable for sure, but the bigger the better.

Well, according to the original post, Death Brewer says that you can brew an All Grain batch using at minimum, one 5 gallon pot (which I already have) and one 6 gallon pot. I realize that the bigger your pot, the better, but I am limited on space.

The mash happens with about 3 gallons in the 5 gallon pot with about a gallon of loss from the grains absorbing it. The sparge happens in the 6 gallon pot. After all the wort is combined, it totals about 5 gallons. Just enough to have a full boil in a 6 gallon pot.

Although I'm paraphrasing Death Brewer here (I'm sure you read the original post), I know that I really won't understand how it works until I try it. Hopefully that will be soon.

Anyone else have a go at this method with a 6 gal pot?
 
Well, according to the original post, Death Brewer says that you can brew an All Grain batch using at minimum, one 5 gallon pot (which I already have) and one 6 gallon pot. I realize that the bigger your pot, the better, but I am limited on space.

I suppose he does say 6+ gallon pot, but having done this method of BIAB for a couple dozen batches, I know I couldn't do a 5 gallon batch with a 6 gallon pot. Mashing and sparging would work, but the boil would be trouble.

I was brewing 4.25 gallon batches and would need a pre-boil volume of about 5.5 gallons. Boil-off will vary a bit by setup, of course, and deadspace varies, too. But you get the idea. If I were doing 5 gallons into the fermenter, I would've been at the brim or over a 6 gallon pot.

FWIW, I boiled in a very cheap aluminum 7.5 gallon pot. Got mine for $28 with shipping. It's the same diameter as my 5 gallon pot, just taller.

Not trying to be a buzzkill, just want to share another BIAB stovetop brewer's experience and perspective!
 
borden said:
I suppose he does say 6+ gallon pot, but having done this method of BIAB for a couple dozen batches, I know I couldn't do a 5 gallon batch with a 6 gallon pot. Mashing and sparging would work, but the boil would be trouble. I was brewing 4.25 gallon batches and would need a pre-boil volume of about 5.5 gallons. Boil-off will vary a bit by setup, of course, and deadspace varies, too. But you get the idea. If I were doing 5 gallons into the fermenter, I would've been at the brim or over a 6 gallon pot. FWIW, I boiled in a very cheap aluminum 7.5 gallon pot. Got mine for $28 with shipping. It's the same diameter as my 5 gallon pot, just taller. Not trying to be a buzzkill, just want to share another BIAB stovetop brewer's experience and perspective!

I really appreciate the advice. I definitely do not want things to go wrong. Your feedback is just the kind of thing I need. I do not plan on rushing in to this. The first step for me is getting a bigger pot. My 5 gallon is aluminum, I never even considered that the bigger pot would be aluminum too. I guess I'm being too particular. If I got a 7.5 or 8 gallon aluminum, it would be much cheaper and it would happen a lot sooner.

Thanks for the insight. I could use more of it.
 

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