Easy Stovetop All-Grain Brewing (with pics)

[agenthucky]

Good point. Did some recalculating:

16lb's grain with 1.25qt/lb= 5 gallons
16*~0.125gallon/lb absorption = -2gallons, leaving 3 of wort
I prob want ~6.5 gallons max to boil, so I can sparge into 3.5 gallons. May not be enough still, but should be a decent amount of batch sparge volume.

As far as the 16lb grain bag, I still have to figure out how I'll manage the strength. No chance for a pulley, so maybe I'll figure out how to do a split mash or something.

Perhaps try a smaller amount for your first try? I've never sparged with more than I've mashed, I regularly get 75% efficiency or higher.

 

[bottlebomber]

Perhaps try a smaller amount for your first try? I've never sparged with more than I've mashed, I regularly get 75% efficiency or higher.

I've seen utube videos on this, and they just put the whole of the grain in all the water. Why not just do that? Wont that get a lot of the sugars out?

 

[DeathBrewer]

I generally use the same amount of water (or even a bit less) for my sparge WHEN i use a 1.5qt/lb ratio.

For instance, I made 15 gallons of Helles the other day and I used the following:
26 lbs of grain
9.75 gallons of mash water
9 gallons of sparge water

I topped off as needed for my boil. You may get less efficiency by using less water, but you will never risk tannin extraction (unless your water is too hot, of course...my sparge water is never hotter than 165-168°F) and I still get over 75% efficiency with my mash tun setup.

bovinejony: You need a colander or very large strainer with that much grain. Then you can do a "pour-over" sparge, pouring the sparge water over the grain and into the original mash pot. Your transfer method would also work, or you may even want to just mash in a bucket (as long as it's food grade and can handle the heat) while you heat water for your sparge in the pot.

Still, that's a lot of grain and it is never necessary to use that much. No reason not to use some extract to get to the gravity you want and you should always keep some on hand anyway, just in case your efficiency is low.

This method was designed for making smaller beers. I would always recommend using a bit of extract with this method if you want a bigger beer.

 

[ThickHead]

Good point. Did some recalculating:

16lb's grain with 1.25qt/lb= 5 gallons
16*~0.125gallon/lb absorption = -2gallons, leaving 3 of wort
I prob want ~6.5 gallons max to boil, so I can sparge into 3.5 gallons. May not be enough still, but should be a decent amount of batch sparge volume.

As far as the 16lb grain bag, I still have to figure out how I'll manage the strength. No chance for a pulley, so maybe I'll figure out how to do a split mash or something.

This is fine. I think you are calculating a bit high on the absorption though. I would also advise you to go with a thinner mash and would go at least 1.5 qt/lb on my strike water. In the end it is better to end up with too much in the BK than too little. Once you have your boil volume you can adjust your boil time (to make the final volume) as well as adjust your hop additions accordingly.

Splitting the mash will also work just fine if you are worried about draining the bag. 16lbs will be heavy as hell, not only for you but for the bag as well. In fact, I usually only get about two uses from each bag due to the stress that grain/water weight puts on the bag during the process.

 

[steelersrbrun]

Death,

Great thread...thanks! I just spent the last 15 hours brewing two batches using this method it was perfect. The temp held for over an hour...I lost maybe 2 degrees in 90 minutes. I'm exhausted but I wanted to say thanks before I crash.

Cheers!!!!!

 

[adagiogray]

I am officially an AG convert now, thanks to this post. I unwittingly used this method almost identically with my two 5 gallon SS pots. My only problem is, with 12 lbs of grain, all I could fit in was about 2.5 gallons for the intial mash and I was at the brim, although I really was supposed to have used 3 or 3.5+ minimum. Since the grain soaked up water, I had to use even less (2 gallons) in the 'sparge' water, ending up with about 3.5 gallons between both pots for the boil... but I hit my recipe's starting gravity after topping up with cold water, so close enough, eh?

I love this method. Less fuss, easy cleanup, less gear.
The only thing I might have done differently would be to get a 6 gallon SS pot or 2 to be able to do a bigger/more effecient mash. Small headroom I get and understand, I had NONE and spilled over a bit.

 

[adagiogray]

*thumbs, even. I can edit the post, but apparently not the title.

 

[bottlebomber]

I just did this for the first time today... I really like the concept, but I think its pretty limited for what I like to brew. I did 15 lbs of grain, which easily fit along with 6 gallons of water in my kettle. However it took all of the strength in my right arm to hold up the grain bag while it drained, and get a strainer under it. My set up is up high so the top of my kettle is chest height. I wouldn't recommend this for beer above 1.060 or so. Plus the protein break material was pretty funky to deal with, there was about 3 inches of it in the bottom of my kettle after I was done. Is this still an issue with a mash tun?

 

[agenthucky]

I just did this for the first time today... I really like the concept, but I think its pretty limited for what I like to brew. I did 15 lbs of grain, which easily fit along with 6 gallons of water in my kettle. However it took all of the strength in my right arm to hold up the grain bag while it drained, and get a strainer under it. My set up is up high so the top of my kettle is chest height. I wouldn't recommend this for beer above 1.060 or so. Plus the protein break material was pretty funky to deal with, there was about 3 inches of it in the bottom of my kettle after I was done. Is this still an issue with a mash tun?

I can hit about 1.065 with about 12 lbs of grain. Sometimes I come out with just under 5 gallons, or for stronger beers 4.5 gallons. After doing it for some time and getting better efficiency I even added water to the fermenter to hit my target gravity. It's all about what your process can handle. Perhaps partial mashes will help you get to your desired OG.

 

[bottlebomber]

I can hit about 1.065 with about 12 lbs of grain. Sometimes I come out with just under 5 gallons, or for stronger beers 4.5 gallons. After doing it for some time and getting better efficiency I even added water to the fermenter to hit my target gravity. It's all about what your process can handle. Perhaps partial mashes will help you get to your desired OG.

What do you do about the break material? I was thinking maybe let it sit and siphoning off the top instead of draining it...

 

[agenthucky]

What do you do about the break material? I was thinking maybe let it sit and siphoning off the top instead of draining it...

you can do that, but you loose volume. using a whirlfloc tablet or irish moss will leave your beer clean when its done fermenting, but you'll have a bit of trub in the bottom of the carboy. This is just a volume loss I adjust for. Me personally, I just throw it all in my fermenter. Hops and all.

 

[seabass07]

I just did this for the first time today... I really like the concept, but I think its pretty limited for what I like to brew. I did 15 lbs of grain, which easily fit along with 6 gallons of water in my kettle. However it took all of the strength in my right arm to hold up the grain bag while it drained, and get a strainer under it. My set up is up high so the top of my kettle is chest height. I wouldn't recommend this for beer above 1.060 or so. Plus the protein break material was pretty funky to deal with, there was about 3 inches of it in the bottom of my kettle after I was done. Is this still an issue with a mash tun?

I did this method with 16lbs of grain. I quickly realized that I needed to change something when I tried lifting the grain bag. So I got a large bowl and put the lid to my kettle on top of it upside down. It can hold a few quarts of liquid due to it's shape. I pulled out the grain bag with both hands and set it on the inverted lid. Then I put the canning rack into my kettle which is tall enough for me to set the grain bag on while I pour sparge water over the grains. Only a couple drops of wort on the counter.

I'd strongly recommend setting something up next to the kettle that will hold the soaked grain bag while you put in a strainer. You could also use a wide colander that fits on top of a large bowl for this as well. It's a lot easier to move that grain bag when you use both hands and you have something to set it on. Lifting it up with one hand while trying to put something under it is just near impossible.

 

[bottlebomber]

The bowl idea is a really good plan... id been trying to figure out what to use, my kettle is 18" across. I should be able to find a large stainless steel bowl and just drill holes in it to drain. Alas I forgot to add irish moss as I do about 30% or the time. I wonder if there's anyhope for my beer to be somewhat clear. Im using wlp007 which drops like a rock but I don't know if that's going to contribute to the protein dropping too

 

[seabass07]

You can always cold crash before bottling/kegging. If you let it sit long enough, it should be pretty clear.

 

[Brew_4iT]

whatever you do don't overlook the supplies like I did... BIG BIG mess! lol

 

[bottlebomber]

You can always cold crash before bottling/kegging. If you let it sit long enough, it should be pretty clear.

Ok, right of course. Thanks for the reminder. Do you think there will still be plenty of yeast left in suspension to bottle condition, or should I repitch a little?

 

[seabass07]

Unless you let it sit for a few months before bottling, there should be plenty of yeast for carbonation.

 

[Justibone]

The amount of general crap in the fermentor when brewing "big" beers with this method is really off-putting. Even when I have an all-grain recipe, if I'm using this recipe I like to substitute some malt extract for the actual grain. We learned this lesson on a barleywine... where every bottle is precious.

 

[BryceL]

I've been looking at trying this method as an introduction to all grain. My idea is to heat up my strike water to about 180 and then dump that into my plastic bucket, let it fall to my calculated temperature and then mash it. I have an 8 gallon kettle that I can use to heat up my sparge water in and rinse my grains. My question is, how do I go about calculating the maximum amount of grain I can use with a 6 gallon bucket assuming I'm using 1.25 qt/lb of strike water? Thanks!

 

[agenthucky]

I've been looking at trying this method as an introduction to all grain. My idea is to heat up my strike water to about 180 and then dump that into my plastic bucket, let it fall to my calculated temperature and then mash it. I have an 8 gallon kettle that I can use to heat up my sparge water in and rinse my grains. My question is, how do I go about calculating the maximum amount of grain I can use with a 6 gallon bucket assuming I'm using 1.25 qt/lb of strike water? Thanks!

http://www.rackers.org/calcs.shtml

This website is posted about every 10 pages on this forum. You guys are going to need to start paying DB to keep this thread up! That or condense the info to the first post.

 

[BryceL]

Thanks! So much info on this huge thread it's hard to find what you're looking for.

 

[seabass07]

And keep in mind that those temps in a plastic bucket can cause pitting which can harbor bacteria. I wouldn't use that bucket for a bottling bucket or fermenter after using it to mash grains.

 

[BryceL]

And keep in mind that those temps in a plastic bucket can cause pitting which can harbor bacteria. I wouldn't use that bucket for a bottling bucket or fermenter after using it to mash grains.

Thanks for the tip. I ferment in separate carboys and keg, so I think I'm covered! Good to know though.

 

[cadarnell]

I've used this method for 9 batches of beer now and I really love it ... I made a cooler mash tun and did a couple beers in that, but this is just better for me right now I think because I do have to use the kitchen stove at this time ... does anyone else seem to get better eff. when using less grain, like just 7 or 8 lbs. and making smaller batches? ... my eff. seems to go up on smaller batches and down on larger batches that use over 10 lbs of grain ... I do add a bag squeeze too ... any thoughts? .. oh all my crushes are extra fine for BIAB ...

 

[tonyolympia]

... I do add a bag squeeze too ...

Seems like about half the people on here squeeze the bag, and the other half scream "Don't squeeze the bag!"

So what's the deal? What are the risks of squeezing the bag? Tannin extraction? How serious of risk is it really? I'm about to do my first BIAB, so if someone could give me the straight dope I'd appreciate it.

EDIT: Never mind, it seems like the answers are all right here...

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/do-you-squeeze-bag-biab-177051/

 

[bottlebomber]

You really don't need to squeeze the bag. If you've used enough sparge water at the right temp there wont be too much of value in there anyway, and it drains pretty nicely

 

[BMGfan]

Ok, Newb here with minimal equipment, thinking about trying an all grain.

Right NOW I have on hand a large cooler (without a tap) and a 10 litre (2.5g) pot. I want to try a 2 gallon batch in order to proof and refine techniques.

Is there any reason I can't put the grains in a grain bag, mash in the cooler, and then tea bag in pot for sparge water?

I don't really want to shell out any cash for a set of pots right now for various reasons. But I think this could work, maybe start with Edworts ridiculously simple house ale (hey I have a test batch of his apelfein fermenting now xP ).

Anything I'm failing to think of?

 

[Justibone]

Ok, Newb here with minimal equipment, thinking about trying an all grain.

Right NOW I have on hand a large cooler (without a tap) and a 10 litre (2.5g) pot. I want to try a 2 gallon batch in order to proof and refine techniques.

Is there any reason I can't put the grains in a grain bag, mash in the cooler, and then tea bag in pot for sparge water?

I don't really want to shell out any cash for a set of pots right now for various reasons. But I think this could work, maybe start with Edworts ridiculously simple house ale (hey I have a test batch of his apelfein fermenting now xP ).

Anything I'm failing to think of?

Getting the mash water from the cooler to the boil pot might be awkward, if it's a big cooler. Other than that, it sounds plausible. You might as well sparge right into your boil kettle, and then dump the mash water in from the cooler after that.

All-in-all, it's a workable set up for BIAB.

 

[Pilamman]

Great tutorial! A couple questions: when do you measure OG? That is, how do you know your mash and sparge are complete? If you don't hit your target OG, then what? I used 10 lb grain and 1 lb rice syrup but had an OG of 1.030 (measured when still hot). Since I had a couple lbs of extract tossed that in too. OG when cooled was 1.07. Uhoh. Kolsch yeast was labeled for 1.06-1.065. guess I'll find out in a couple weeks.

 

[Justibone]

Great tutorial! A couple questions: when do you measure OG?

Typically, I measure after the boil is complete, when topping up the fermentor.

That is, how do you know your mash and sparge are complete?

You know that the sparge is complete when you're done with rinsing the grain. As for the mash, you can use a drop of wort and of iodine, then watch for a color change. If the iodine turns purple, there are still starches, and the mash is not completely finished.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iodine_test

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Iodine_test

I've also seen people use a wine cork... whatever floats yer boat!

If you don't hit your target OG, then what?

That's why you keep DME on hand.

I used 10 lb grain and 1 lb rice syrup but had an OG of 1.030 (measured when still hot). Since I had a couple lbs of extract tossed that in too. OG when cooled was 1.07. Uhoh. Kolsch yeast was labeled for 1.06-1.065. guess I'll find out in a couple weeks.

1.070 is the edge of "big beer" territory. You should be fine.

If you want to measure sugars while the wort is hot, you need one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FBL2G0/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Refractometer

Have fun!!