Easy Partial Mash Brewing (with pics)

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DB, have you ever tried a thin mash with a stove top mashing? This would kind of simulate the BIAB technique and would further help in maintaining temps during the mash. Like for my 5.5 gallon pot and 6lb of grain I could easily mash at 2.5 qt/lb.
 
Wow, what an awesome thread! Thanks for helping out the noobs, DB!!!!

I will admit I haven't read the almost 40 pages so I appologize if this has been covered already, but....
What is the difference between steeping specialty grains and doing a mini-mash?
A clone recipe I've done now a couple of times has me steeping 1lb of 2 row and 1lb of crystal, at 150F, for 30 mins.
Am I doing a partial mash? If not, what am I doing?

TIA
 
That's a good thread. When you use 2-row (a base malt) you are technically mashing.

Temperature is more important with mashing, as the enzymes work best at certain temps. Somewhere between 146-156, usually. Water/grain ratio is also important. Generally, people use 1-2 quarts per pound of grain. I usually shoot for around 1.25 qt/lb.
 
Yeah, that too is a very good thread.
I've just learned that I'm using too much water to technically call it mashing.
I have just been following the recipe, so they probably had the intent to just "flavor" the wort and nothing more.

Perhaps the next time I try that clone I will limit the water, pay much closer attention to the temp, and let it go longer. Sounds like a fun experiment.
 
I've been experimenting with DB's method and I'm hooked! It fits my lifestyle (two young kids) a lot better than all grain. I've tried 1.25, 1.75, and 2 qts per lb of grain and I liked the 1.75-2 qts better. My efficiency was a wee bit higher and it was easier to dough in and mix it without messing up the bag. I had a little bit of trouble holding my temp in my thin aluminum pot, but slipping it in a preheated oven solved that. Whoever posted that tip is a brewing god. It pushed this method into the realm of super easy.
 
DeathBrewer said:
I kill my heat. With this method, due to the amount of head space and the lack of insulation as I originally protrayed in this thread, I get a few degrees temp loss. I usually do all-grain all the time now, even when using this method, so I don't have the head space problem and I don't experience any loss.

I do not condone ever using an electric burner for temperature correction. It's too sporatic and seemingly impossible to make work correctly. Your best bet is to try and hit your temp the first time and let it hold. You could keep some water boiled and ready to go to add for ramping your heat and some cool water for cooling...this will work to correct temperature much better than applying electric heat. Gas works better, but be aware that the glass thermometer will go nuts when you apply heat and your reading will not be immediately correct.

But, again, a few degrees loss is not a big deal. Still makes fantastic beer.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Yeah i was assuming you killed the heat based on the illustrations and everything. i will have to do that next time. i am using gas so i can make it with very little heat but i like the hot water cold water suggestion. That would be much easier.
 
According to promash, 7 lbs of grain with 2.5 gallons of water (1.43qt/lb) gives you a total of 3.06 gallons for your mash. You could probably fit more and reduce the water, but that's where I would start if you haven't done it a few times...it minimizes your headspace, but gives you enough room to stir. With that, you would only need to add a pound or two of extract to make a beer. Pretty much all-grain ;)
:mug:
 
OK, so a BIG thanks to DB for posting this thread! Just great stuff here. I just did my 2nd pm and I think this is gonna be a real winner. I did an adaptation of BM's blue balls clone. According to the calculations I had a little bit better than 75% efficiency!

And really, just a big thanks to all who post and share so much on this forum!

:mug:
 
:mug:Thanks DB, I was thinking this was the way to do a PM, but it's nice to see it. I'm doing my 1st real PM right now, and never going back.
 
I have a 6 gallon brew pot and a 2.5 gallon stock pot (formally used for brewing small boil extracts). At this time I'm not prepared to buy another brew pot (house is way small and the brew closet is already packed) but I am curious about how much grain I might be able to partial mash in that 2.5 gal pot.

I was wondering if anyone thought 1.5 gallons water of + 5 lbs of grain would fit in that 2.5 gal pot? Or is 5lbs of grain pushing it too far?

Anyone have a suggestion as to how much water + grain I might be able to fit in a 2.5 gal pot?
 
Yeah guys you would be surprised how much grain will fit in a pot nearly full of water already. The most I have done so far for an AG batch was 12lbs 4oz with 13qts of water in a 20qt/5gal pot. It just fit with 1/4" to spare.

Right now I am making a Magic Hat #9 clone with this method, and sipping on an Extract RIS I made ( I have to free up the bottles... the RIS wasn't that good). A BIG thanks to deathbrewer for bringing this method to the forefront for the community. This is my 4th batch using this method today (1st was a Partial Mash), and my 3rd AG batch and I will never go back to extract and partial boils. My beer has improved exponentially since I started doing this.

The only other advice that I can offer is that temperature control of fermentation is absolutely necessary. Your friends will be knocking down your door and peope will start offering to buy your beer from you after you move to PM/AG and control your fermentation temps. Or at least this is my experience anyhow. :D
 
Newbie here great post I love pictures. One question does all the hops need to be strained. Can't you just throw them in the mash with the boil?
 
RedIrocZ-28 said:
The only other advice that I can offer is that temperature control of fermentation is absolutely necessary. Your friends will be knocking down your door and peope will start offering to buy your beer from you after you move to PM/AG and control your fermentation temps. Or at least this is my experience anyhow. :D
Click to expand...

This is great advice. Using grain makes a big difference, but the biggest part of your beer is a nice cool fermentation. I ferment almost all of my ales in the low 60s.

Temperature control in general is important. Getting the right mash temp, boiling quickly after your sparge, cooling quickly after your boil, and keeping a nice, cool, consistent temperature for fermentation makes all the difference in the world.

We recently served 54 gallons at a party and every beer was praised. By the end they were begging for more. Every single one of these beers was brewed with care and fermented at a carefully controlled temperature. The Black Lager and the Hefeweizen were to die for. None of this would be possible without the help of a cool basement in the winter and a fermentation cabinet in the summer.

Best investment you can make for your beer. That's why this method is great. Use what you have for brewing now and upgrade for fermentation temp before buying AG equipment. You'll be on the way to serving great beer in no time.
:mug:
 
big_steve said:
Newbie here great post I love pictures. One question does all the hops need to be strained. Can't you just throw them in the mash with the boil?
Click to expand...

Hops can be used at many different times to give different flavors. Hops can be added to the mash, but I have never done this.

We made an 18 gallon batch of IPA yesterday, and we used almost 20 oz of hops. We did a FWH (first wort hop) addition, adding it to the wort just after our mash. The FWH will add more flavor and aroma than bitterness. Odd but true.

We then did a regular bittering addition and a flavor addition. Then, using a newly built hopback (just a 9 gallon pot with a few extensions to run the wort), we let the beer go through 12 oz of hops before it was pumped and cooled on its way to the fermenter. Wonderful flavor and aroma. I can't wait for that beer :D
 
Fridge, Freezer conversion, Water/Ice Bath, Son-of-fermentation Chiller...there are so many options in so many different price ranges that everyone should be able to control their fermentation temp.

The Son-of-Fermentation Chiller is very simple to make and works wonders. The only real effort is remembering to change out the ice every day.

Remember, also, that it's only the first week (or less) that the temp is really important. The temperature will determine what flavors the yeast give the beer during active fermentation. After fermentation has completed, a little higher temps won't cause any problems.
 
Wouldn't the easiest thing to do be to get a fridge that could hold two primary fermentation buckets and control the temp that way? I know it ain't the cheapest solution - but it seems like the quickest/easiest.

Any problems with doing it this way?
 
DeathBrewer, this is great thank you for the post.

I have a few questions as a newb that so far has only made no boil kits...
I just ordered this stuff online as per the extract/steep recipe for hobgoblin clone on this site... so with more LME I can make a second 5G batch later...

Crystal 60L 2 lbs
Carapils 2 lbs
Styrian Golding Pellet Hops (4 oz)
Wyeast Northwest Ale 1332 (x2)
Irish Moss 4 oz.
Chocolate Malt 2 lbs
Extra Fine Nylon Bag (Drawstring)
Pale Liquid Malt Extract 9 lbs
Fuggle Pellet Hops (4 oz)

Is there any difference between what you have shown here and an extract / steep method? They seem like the same thing to me, except maybe the mash is actually converting sugars, where the steep is just drawing sugar out that is already converted?

your method seems so much simpler than others I've seen for AG with fancy MLT's and copper hose everywhere etc. lol.

p.s. Me about 16 years ago :rockin: SLAYER!
Michael1992.jpg
 
jcole said:
Wouldn't the easiest thing to do be to get a fridge that could hold two primary fermentation buckets and control the temp that way? I know it ain't the cheapest solution - but it seems like the quickest/easiest.

Any problems with doing it this way?
Click to expand...

The only additional purchase you would need is an outside temperature controller. Fridges are a bit too cold for most fermentation temps. A lot of people use ranco controllers.

Definitely the easiest choice, but you're right...it can be very expensive. Even if you get a cheap old fridge off of craigslist, it could vastly increase your energy bill if it isn't very efficient.

The cheapest way is probably a water bath, and fairly easy. The big difference is that you have to monitor it more often, especially if you have big temperature swings. A fridge you just set to the right temp and let it do it's job.
 
Kronin said:
DeathBrewer, this is great thank you for the post.

I have a few questions as a newb that so far has only made no boil kits...
I just ordered this stuff online as per the extract/steep recipe for hobgoblin clone on this site... so with more LME I can make a second 5G batch later...

Crystal 60L 2 lbs
Carapils 2 lbs
Styrian Golding Pellet Hops (4 oz)
Wyeast Northwest Ale 1332 (x2)
Irish Moss 4 oz.
Chocolate Malt 2 lbs
Extra Fine Nylon Bag (Drawstring)
Pale Liquid Malt Extract 9 lbs
Fuggle Pellet Hops (4 oz)
Click to expand...

Looks like you need to buy some base malt before you can do a true partial mash. None of those grains have enzymes.

Kronin said:
Is there any difference between what you have shown here and an extract / steep method? They seem like the same thing to me, except maybe the mash is actually converting sugars, where the steep is just drawing sugar out that is already converted?
Click to expand...

same gig, just certain parts are more important:

1. You must use some base malt so that their enzymes can convert sugars.
2. You must have a proper volume of water to help the enzymes.
3. You must steep for a longer time to let the enzymes do their work.
4. You must keep the mash at a specific temperature to get good conversion and a specific profile.

Kronin said:
your method seems so much simpler than others I've seen for AG with fancy MLT's and copper hose everywhere etc. lol.
Click to expand...

While some of these methods may be better overall, this works great for those who don't yet have the equipment, the space, the time and/or the experience!

Kronin said:
p.s. Me about 16 years ago :rockin: SLAYER!
Michael1992.jpg
Click to expand...

"16 years ago"...tsk, tsk...you guys are all traitors...I still HAVE my hair :p
 
DeathBrewer said:
"16 years ago"...tsk, tsk...you guys are all traitors...I still HAVE my hair :p
Click to expand...

I know, it is a sad thing and I miss it. cutting it was something I could not really avoid in my line of work...


another clarification... regarding hops, the recipe I am going to make states add hops to the boil at 0 minutes, and again at 30 minutes, then irish moss at 50 minutes, then more hop again at 0 minute flameout for steeping while cooling. (60 minute boil)

Can I just use the mesh bag in the boil and keep adding those things to it at those intervals?
 
Yes, as long as your bag is big enough to allow the hops to be fully absorbed in wort. Using the big bags will help. Sometimes I do this, or use several little bags.

If you shove a bunch of hops into a small bag, the wort will not be able to flow through the hops and you won't get very good utilization.
 
thanks DB, you are a great help...

I bought a new 7 gallon pot today, and I have it full about 75% - 80% with water (about 5gallons)... its been on my stove now on high for 90 minutes and its at about 155 degrees. and it drops fast if i take off the lid... no boiling for me I think!

So, can I just go with 3 or 4 gallons, i.e. whatever it takes to get a good boil going, then top up with boiled and cooled water in the fermentor at the end before pitching? is that how it is achieved or will that have ill effects?

thanks,
 
That will work just fine...that's what this method is about. You will get slightly lower hop utilization due to the heavier wort. If you are using some extract, you can add it late in the boil (last 10 min) to counter this.

Then keep that 7 gal pot handy for when you get a propane burner and decide to go all-grain ;)
 
cool, thanks. I see a nice lobster boiler thingy at wal-mart... 42 quarts on a stand with a burner underneath for $99... maybe someday :)
 
That was great man! Really like the pictures. Many of us noobs benefit so much when people take the time to post up pics and describe their process in detail. Thanks!
 
Since I saw this thread, I used this method for an extract based recipe with specialty grains only (this was my first time using grains and my third brew so I am definately still learning a whole lot) I figured with even the small amount of grains I used, it is still easier to dunk the grains into a seperate pot after steeping for about 25-30 minutes to rinse them instead of trying to pour the water over them. So basically I had 5 gallons of water starting to boil in my big kettle outside and then a gallon each in two pots on the stove heating to 165F. It helped alot with time and who knows the beer might come out good too. Thanks
 
Great thread and I saw it just in time! I was trying to do somthing like this anyway it is nice to see that I was not crazy. I have only started to brew but I am very enthusiastic about brewing lots more. The only question I have is how coarse is the bag? Is it a fine bag like a paint strainer or more coarse? But thaks again for posting this just what I wanted to see!:mug:
 
I've used various bags...they're usually a little more coarse than the paint strainer bags, I think, but anything that will hold the grain will work. I'd think the more coarse it is, the less crap you will get in the beer, but the slower the wort will leak out.
 
Thanks for the input! Again great thread just what I have been looking for! By the way I compared it to a large bag at a LHBS and it looked like it was about the same, mine may be a tad bit finer but not much. but like you said it may just take a little longer to drain but there will be lees trub left over.
 

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