I really like your setup....is it still working for you? Would you change anything? I'm thinking about doing this T as well...and is that 6 in duct? Fan size?I just finished my build based off the SS mixing bowl. No idea why it uploads the image sideways.
^^^I'll look for the article authored by 'ballz'.
wow...I knew that had to be larger than 6 inches (I know...that's what she said!)....I did a 6in hole and and plan on running a Vortex VTX600 inline fan with a variable controller. I think I am only running mine over the boil kettle to reduce bulkiness of system in my small brew room. Again, your system looks bullet-proof. I've attached where I am with mine. I'll update with pics as I'm starting to move more quickly.
Cheers!
Mark C.
Hey guys
Have any of you tried mounting the fan on a Movable arm?
Something where you could swing the fan out of the way ?
Thx
S
I have a Tjernlund M-6 from amazon.com:
http://www.tjernlund.com/Tjernlund_M-Series_Corded_High_Pressure_Fans_8504147_REV_B_0210.pdf
It sucks like a beast, but the system is a bit loud for me.
Designing the most appropriate system will vary with need. If being able to move the fan out of the way is a priority for you, then go for it.
So I don't think there's anything wrong with your plan, just make sure the primary goal of moving that steam out of there is achieved.
Best of luck on your journey.
something like this would be cool
ballz50401
Where did you get the cool Home Brewer Sticker ?
S
You must contact Walter White for this setup...
Need some help setting my exhaust up. I'm not really sure what parts to buy.
I will be exhausting the steam out of my basement. The hole for the exhaust is level with the ceiling. It goes in about 4 feet. I figured it would be easiest to use a rigid pipe since I could hold it steady while I push it through the hole in the siding. I couldn't figure out how to attach the non-tapered end since a 4" pipe is the same size as the 4" to 6" reducer.
So I bought this:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Speedi-P...ite-with-11-in-Tail-Pipe-EX-HLWT-04/202907375
I also have some 4" flexible piping. Two 6" to 4" reducers.
I'm hoping I can attach the tail pipe from the plastic hood to the flexible pipe and push that through the joists and find the hole. Then attach the reducer to the flexible pipe and that to the fan. The other reducer to the other side of the fan and more flexible pipe. That goes to the stainless bowl.
Did I make this too complicated? I just couldn't figure out how to use this stuff since the non-tapered ends don't fit 4" parts. I guess thinking about it now, I could have just used 6" flexible lol I do need a reducer to get a 4" pipe through the joists and in the hole to the vent.
Mine definitely leaks from the bottom. The electrical box on mine is on the side, so it does not leak through there. Definitely rotate it and then just put a small condensation pan under it to collect the moisture. the pan will dry out between brews. if you want to get fancy you can seal the fan, drill out a hole for a drain line and plumb it down into a bucket or something.
Thanks!! Problem solved!!
thanks, looks to be about a Cup
Are you concerned ?
Steve
Its not ideal but from what I understand it shouldn't cause any issues.
I'll probably eventually take it apart and seal it and install a drain tube.
Its not ideal but from what I understand it shouldn't cause any issues.
I'll probably eventually take it apart and seal it and install a drain tube.
Just my 2c.
Why is the steam condensing?
1) Not enough velocity?
2) High impedance ducting?
3) External air keeping the motor and duct cold?
I'm guessing it's mainly #3, but that's only an opinion as that is one helluva motor there and the run is quite short.
I've seen a lot of comments about sealing the motor housing and can only believe that's not what you want, who needs a pool of water sitting in the housing waiting to evaporate. If there's water condensing get it out as quickly and efficiently as possible without causing an additional air leak.
Good luck.
Thanks!! Problem solved!!
Straight forward physics here. If the surfaces of your blower and duct are less than the temperature required for steam, you're going to get condensation. The colder it is and the more contact time, the more condensation.
#1 and #2 are inversely related. The less restriction in the duct, the lower the pressure drop, the higher pressure differential, and thus the higher the velocity will be. Higher velocity will reduce your contact time, but you're still going to get some condensation. You cannot eliminate it 100%.
So your options are:
1. Heat all pipes, blowers, etc, that come into contact with the steam so that all your steam stays "dry".
2. Drain the condensation you get.
Also, sealing the blower is fine, but if you have a horizontal orientation you want to add a drip hole at the low point and drain it from there. In a vertical installation it'll run back down and into your kettle (which is what mine doe).
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