Dual 240v Controller?

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Sprov

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Hello all, first post after lurking for a year.
First, the basics:
Been brewing a little under three years and have cooked about 120 batches (yeah, a lot in a short period).
Started out with the standard 5 gallon extract kit using propane.
Migrated to 10 gallon batches all grain about a year and a half ago.
Currently using a 8 gal for HLT and an Igloo 10 gal for mashing.
Sparging takes a while because the HLT needs to be 9 gal, so I have to heat additional water.

I am doing this in the basement then tramping up the stairs with 5 gal wort buckets and going outside to boil (UGH!!!)
After finishing with cooking, cool it and into fermenters, then BACK down the steps to the basement.
I'm getting too old for this sheet, let alone the possibility of spilling wort inside the house and carpet, I'd be in HUGE trouble as you all would understand...

My plan is to go all electric BIAB 20 gal final in kegs.
50 gallon dual 5500W elements for the mash and boil. This leaves room in the tall BK to lift the bag enough to get a good sparge.
Transfer to 30 gallon for whirlpool, simply because I think the two elements in the BK may interfere with the WP flow or cone. (your thoughts?)
I'll be using a Chugger TEFC Mini-Max for WP, I believe that will create a good cone with a Hangover WP arm in the 30 gal kettle.

The dilemma is controlling the two elements at the same time in the BK..
One 5500W element would take 1 1/4 hr to strike temp and 47 min from strike to boil.
Two 5500W elements would take 38 minutes to strike temp and 24 minutes from strike to boil.
As you all know and can see, that is twice the time with only one element.

I have found "affordable" controllers, like the Blichman Brewcommander to regulate only one element (30 amps).
Is there a reasonably priced controller out there that I can control both elements from a single dial?
I don't need fancy temp regulation, I can do that with the dial after I figure out placement of the dial for strike and boil temps and mark the dial accordingly.

I am in the process of building a single-tier stand to fit both kettles, using bed framing.
Pretty strong stuff, cutting with Milwaukee Torch Carbide blades in a Sawz-All and using 5/8" bolts to assemble.
The top will be 3/4" marine plywood and high-temp black paint on everything.
I realize that the frame could be a heat sink, hence the wood.
I'll use a thick rubber floor runner with the ridges to catch spillage and remove it for hosing off.

So...
Affordable single controller for two 30A elements simultaneously?
Second kettle needed for WP?

Thanks for reading, hope you can help...
 
Blichman makes a relay unit that connects with the commander for this purpose. About $100.
I think this option will require having two 30A outlets. It's possible to DIY a controller that will run both elements from a single 50A supply circuit.

Brew on :mug:
 
Electric elements have no issue with whirlpooling. IMHO you'd be wasting your time with a separate whirlpool unless you're trying to pull off back to back batches (you'd use the 50 for mashing and the 30 for boiling so that you could turn over the 50 for the next batch).

The brew commander and the $99 relay module is exactly what you're looking for. That will run two elements at the same time on two separate L6-30 lines. I recommend GFCI breakers.

I would strongly recommend putting a 50 BIAB on more of a dolly rather than a stand or just put it on the floor. You'll need as much vertical clearance as possible to pull the bag out. I would install a unistrut above with a trolley so you can lift the bag up and then roll it forward away from the kettle. I'm not sure what the weight limit on the unistrut trolley is but check into that.

I'm not a fan of sparging BIAB but if you're going to, where are you getting the water from?
 
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*I've no help to offer, just questions*

How will you package 20 gallons of finished beer? A 1/2 and a sixtel?
Two 10s?
4 sixtels?
Bottle all of it?
Also, do you just give a lot away or do you drink it all?
Large scale homebrewing fascinates me so thanks for any insight.
 
I will have my electrician buddy install a proper 60a GFCI breaker in the sub panel and run the lines 9 feet to the stand area.

The stand will be on heavy duty casters.
After the mash, I'll roll it three feet out from under the vent hood to the overhead lift to pull the bag. Pump(s) will be attached to the stand, along with a HERMS. I will pump it out of the mash kettle, through the HERMS, and use it to sparge, no extra water.

Once sparge is done, roll it back under the vent hood for the boil.

Doing a WP in the BK will save me a few hundred, thank you.

New Jersey:
My electrician buddy and I split the ingredient costs and the beer, we both have three-tap kegerators. I use 5 gal Torpedo Slims and Korneys.
He has three ppl at his house that drink it and I also have three ppl. We normally run out, hence the desire to cook 20 gal at a shot instead of 10.
 
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