Drinkable

[Hop tropic]

Hello people!........i need a little help putting togeather a little operation....my back ground in brewing is a few home brew kits....and some wine making.....all was a few years ago but successful and at the time I didn't find it challenging or complicated...I'm pretty practical and easily pleased and not shy to get stuck in.....I'm just trying to achieve a drinkable ale....5% or around that???..hoppy smokey..but on the darker bitter side but not to fussed really.... but now I come to a situation where I'm trying to find a way to calculate how I can have a rolling process after the first batch I brew to give me somewhere between 10 and 12 litres a week...and there after for the next couple of years......so now with grains and hops and new complications I'm a little out of my depth calculating how I can do this.....I'm happy to have a read up and have been trying.....I could just do with a nudge in the right direction......this isn't about making a perfect a ale....just something to neck after a day of sweating in the sun....I'm also stuck for a brew shop...and the order will have to be placed with a shop miles away....I'm in the Philippines..the shop seams pretty neat....lots of variety so don't think that's a problem.....I'm just trying to figure out the cheapest way to make batches...and then order the next amount......another thing is how long it keeps.....i have warm rooms here for fermenting....but don't have the luxury of keeping large batches cool!!!.........any help pointers would be great.....thankyouI'm not botherd about bottling but what Evers best?

 

[Stand]

Greetings from North Carolina!

Are you asking how to save money, or about designing a process? Do you do all grain brewing?

Warm temperatures will cause things to go down hill faster, but there are styles like Saison that do well in warm temperatures. Kveik yeasts are great for that too.

 

[Calder]

Unfortunately clean yeasts for the styles you want need temps to be below 70 during fermentation, or they will produce unwanted flavors and higher alcohols. Use Belgian and Farmhouse yeasts as they not only tolerate the heat, but prefer it to produce lots of flavor.

The yeasts can be fruity or spicy depending on the yeast.

Belgian and Farmhouse beers are more about the yeast than the malt profile. They are usually highly attenuative, and produce dry 'Digestible' beers, very drinkable and thirst quenching.

Belgian yeasts can also be used for Pale Ales and IPAs, but will have the yeast flavors. An example of this is Stone's CaliBelgie ale, which is Stones standard IPA (Centennial hops) brewed with Duvel yeast.

Learn to re-use yeasts (store some of the starters, re-use slurry) and you can keep a yeast going for several years. I still use yeasts I bought 10 years ago. This keeps yeast cost down.

Buy base grains and hops in bulk if you can to get cost down. Smokey beers can be made with smoked malt (you can try smoking it yourself).

12 liters a week = 3 gallons. So you will need to brew 2 five-gallon batches every 3 weeks. You will need to work out your schedule and the number of fermenters you need based on how long it takes you to turn-around a beer. Assuming you take 3 weeks from mash to bottle, you would need 2 fermenters for active beers, and a bottling bucket. Probably need a spare fermenter for when you want to do a beer that will take longer (Barley Wine, fruit beer, etc).

 

[Hop tropic]

Greetings from North Carolina!

Are you asking how to save money, or about designing a process? Do you do all grain brewing?

Warm temperatures will cause things to go down hill faster, but there are styles like Saison that do well in warm temperatures. Kveik yeasts are great for that too.
Hello NC!...Thanks for the reply!.....im after a bit of both i guess......and no ive never done all grain brewing.....im lacking in pretty much everything and i wouldnt normally aproch a project like this....but i dont have the supplys or cash to follow a set pattern......i have a pressurised steel tank im going to sanitise...so im make shift on most the gear and will just get the essentials..... so a warm weather recipy would be handy.....ive noted your recomedations and will check with the brew shop whats available......been a long time since i did anything so very rusty....just need the confidnce to bash out a batch and the warm weather is oposite what im used to......

 

[Hop tropic]

Unfortunately clean yeasts for the styles you want need temps to be below 70 during fermentation, or they will produce unwanted flavors and higher alcohols. Use Belgian and Farmhouse yeasts as they not only tolerate the heat, but prefer it to produce lots of flavor.

The yeasts can be fruity or spicy depending on the yeast.

Belgian and Farmhouse beers are more about the yeast than the malt profile. They are usually highly attenuative, and produce dry 'Digestible' beers, very drinkable and thirst quenching.

Belgian yeasts can also be used for Pale Ales and IPAs, but will have the yeast flavors. An example of this is Stone's CaliBelgie ale, which is Stones standard IPA (Centennial hops) brewed with Duvel yeast.

Learn to re-use yeasts (store some of the starters, re-use slurry) and you can keep a yeast going for several years. I still use yeasts I bought 10 years ago. This keeps yeast cost down.

Buy base grains and hops in bulk if you can to get cost down. Smokey beers can be made with smoked malt (you can try smoking it yourself).

12 liters a week = 3 gallons. So you will need to brew 2 five-gallon batches every 3 weeks. You will need to work out your schedule and the number of fermenters you need based on how long it takes you to turn-around a beer. Assuming you take 3 weeks from mash to bottle, you would need 2 fermenters for active beers, and a bottling bucket. Probably need a spare fermenter for when you want to do a beer that will take longer (Barley Wine, fruit beer, etc).

Unfortunately clean yeasts for the styles you want need temps to be below 70 during fermentation, or they will produce unwanted flavors and higher alcohols. Use Belgian and Farmhouse yeasts as they not only tolerate the heat, but prefer it to produce lots of flavor.

The yeasts can be fruity or spicy depending on the yeast.

Belgian and Farmhouse beers are more about the yeast than the malt profile. They are usually highly attenuative, and produce dry 'Digestible' beers, very drinkable and thirst quenching.

Belgian yeasts can also be used for Pale Ales and IPAs, but will have the yeast flavors. An example of this is Stone's CaliBelgie ale, which is Stones standard IPA (Centennial hops) brewed with Duvel yeast.

Learn to re-use yeasts (store some of the starters, re-use slurry) and you can keep a yeast going for several years. I still use yeasts I bought 10 years ago. This keeps yeast cost down.

Buy base grains and hops in bulk if you can to get cost down. Smokey beers can be made with smoked malt (you can try smoking it yourself).

12 liters a week = 3 gallons. So you will need to brew 2 five-gallon batches every 3 weeks. You will need to work out your schedule and the number of fermenters you need based on how long it takes you to turn-around a beer. Assuming you take 3 weeks from mash to bottle, you would need 2 fermenters for active beers, and a bottling bucket. Probably need a spare fermenter for when you want to do a beer that will take longer (Barley Wine, fruit beer, etc).

Hey calder!.....thats straight up advive right there...thankyou!.......i think that will put me well on the way.....i was thinking the warm weather would be a bonus due to the cold weather and warming buckets when in the uk.....im going to do some temperature checks in the rooms i have avalible.....but the balls rolling...cheers!