Double IPA dry hop schedule...
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I would not leave any dry hops in a ~room temp fermentor for more than 5 days or so, lest grassy notes start creeping in.
Alternatives are to increase the ounces, or rack off the first addition to add the next. The popular Heady Topper clone recipe ("As Seen On HBT") uses the latter technique (pita that it is).
I once read some notable brewer relate that something like 80 percent of the dry hop bang is drawn out in the first 24 hours. So you're working out the tail of the dragon by going much longer than a handful of days, with potential down-sides...
Cheers!
Alternatives are to increase the ounces, or rack off the first addition to add the next. The popular Heady Topper clone recipe ("As Seen On HBT") uses the latter technique (pita that it is).
I once read some notable brewer relate that something like 80 percent of the dry hop bang is drawn out in the first 24 hours. So you're working out the tail of the dragon by going much longer than a handful of days, with potential down-sides...
Cheers!
TravelingLight
Well-Known Member
I've gone as few as five days, and as long as 15 days (life got in the way). Thankfully, I have never gotten grassy off flavors. Now, I surely don't recommend dry hopping for 15 days as it's certainly not my usual practice. But I've done it with no terrible ill effects.
TravelingLight
Well-Known Member
Absolutely. Hell, I dry hop with zero days left often (i.e., keg hop).
TravelingLight
Well-Known Member
I think it would be more of a waste. When you're cold crashing you're relying on the colder environment to cause all the solids to drop out. Therefore, all of your hops you just added would just gather at the bottom and therefore not infusing throughout the beer like a typical dry hop. Are you on a tight time table or something?
TheHopfather
Well-Known Member
Generally you can think that the warmer the beer the quicker you'll extract the oils from the hops. You can dry hop cold but it will take longer to get the same extraction you'd see from a warmer beer.
Traditionally dry hopping takes place after fermentation stops or just has a couple of points left to go. However lately people have started experimenting with biotransformation. The idea being that dry hopping while the yeast are still active they transform hop compounds from one form into another. It really just depends on what you are going for.
I'm a huge hop head and I dry hop almost 85% of my beers. I've never run across a grassy flavor from leaving hops in too long......at any temperature. But, I do think 5-7 days is more than enough for most beers. Sometimes I do a double dry hop and go 7 and 4 days.
I've found dry hopping between 66-68 best for my tastes though many go to 72 degrees or more.
I've found dry hopping between 66-68 best for my tastes though many go to 72 degrees or more.
TravelingLight
Well-Known Member
Ahh gotcha. No worries. For me, it depends on the beer. If I'm doing an NEIPA, I throw in the first charge of dry hops about 3 days into active fermentation, i.e., pretty much at high krausen. But, for me, that's strictly with NEIPAs (for biotransformation, as mentioned above). However, for most other beers, I wait until the end of fermentation, definitely until at least the krausen drops. Mainly because if fermentation is still active, I don't want the CO2 produced to scrub all my hops of aromas.
Another ques... if I wanna dry hop for 7 and then 2 days- should I start the cold crash after this period? Or should my dry hopping length include the few days in cold crash? Thanks ,,, so 1st dry hop addition on the 11th (7days), 2nd addition on the 15th (2days) ... and then cold crash? Hope it makes sense what I'm asking ha
To add to this, you hear the suggestion often to dry hop in 2-3 additions - dry hop for 5 days, then take them out and add a fresh batch of hops. What is your take on this vs using 2x the amount for your first addition? I can see some contact issues if you are using whole hops, but with pellets there shouldnt be any real contact issues (contact of the hops with the beer), I dont know what the benefit would be to multiple dry hop additions.
Hi guys, here is my cent about when dry-hopping.
After I made several researches I could make properly my APAs with dry-hopping with great results. And at the end of this experience the most important point for me is the oxigen.
- When you drop anything in your green beer you also put Oxigen. This can oxide your beer... So to prevent this drop your hops when the bubbling is almost completed ( like 1 day before OR like 1 point before FG). I particulary like to see the bubbles.
When you follow this way the oxigen included will be absorved by the yeast reducing the oxidation problem or exclude entirely this problem.
But in other hand if you put the hops before the " right time " the CO2 ( generated by the yeast) will kick out the hops flavor as the hop oil is volatile.
And there is another problem if you leave the oxigen in the beer the hop oil oxide too and in couples days the hop flavor will change a lot. So the oxigen is terrible 2x.
Add note: I could not find one good article about the quantity of dry hop that I saw to link here but what I remeber is sometimes like "less hops can make more flavor then more". This is because your taste buds are saturated easily.
A great recipe: http://beersmithrecipes.com/viewrecipe/3684/galaxy-pond-pale-ale
tks
After I made several researches I could make properly my APAs with dry-hopping with great results. And at the end of this experience the most important point for me is the oxigen.
- When you drop anything in your green beer you also put Oxigen. This can oxide your beer... So to prevent this drop your hops when the bubbling is almost completed ( like 1 day before OR like 1 point before FG). I particulary like to see the bubbles.
When you follow this way the oxigen included will be absorved by the yeast reducing the oxidation problem or exclude entirely this problem.
But in other hand if you put the hops before the " right time " the CO2 ( generated by the yeast) will kick out the hops flavor as the hop oil is volatile.
And there is another problem if you leave the oxigen in the beer the hop oil oxide too and in couples days the hop flavor will change a lot. So the oxigen is terrible 2x.
Add note: I could not find one good article about the quantity of dry hop that I saw to link here but what I remeber is sometimes like "less hops can make more flavor then more". This is because your taste buds are saturated easily.
A great recipe: http://beersmithrecipes.com/viewrecipe/3684/galaxy-pond-pale-ale
tks
Agtronic
Well-Known Member
This interesting experiment regarding long duration vs. short duration dry hopping suggests that shorter is better for what most hop heads are looking for. http://brulosophy.com/2015/10/26/dry-hop-length-long-vs-short-exbeeriment-results/
Also, I have tried many different methods and have never successfully nailed the big hop taste / aroma of the commercial examples I love. To me, this suggests that there is more at play than the hop schedule alone, like malt choices, fermentation specifics, water chemistry etc... The more you learn, the more you realize you don't know...
A few good suggestions in one of my previous attempts at a triple IPA: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=542358
Hope this helps!
Also, I have tried many different methods and have never successfully nailed the big hop taste / aroma of the commercial examples I love. To me, this suggests that there is more at play than the hop schedule alone, like malt choices, fermentation specifics, water chemistry etc... The more you learn, the more you realize you don't know...
A few good suggestions in one of my previous attempts at a triple IPA: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=542358
Hope this helps!
Dry hop once active fermentaion is done done. 5 days or so. If you keg, dry hop for a month or more in the keg. Warmer = faster; colder = slower. Multiple additions are better. Hopping during active fermentaion is possible, but many say it scrubs aroma, so it is not cost effective.
This is an absolute NO NO, do a little research before bugging others to do it for you. It's common knowledge that anymore than 5 days is potentially detrimental to your finished beer. Grassiness is the biggest concern and it's not worth making bad beer over. I usually dry hop for 3 to 4 days max.
Someone tell Vinny Cilurzo that he's ruining his Pliny the Elder by dry-hopping it for 14 days. 🙄
Seriously - lots of us (not to name drop, but Yooper and Denny Conn included) leave dry hops in he keg from the day it's kegged to the day it kicks - weeks or months with no "grassiness." Grassy stuff from long dry hops is a myth.
Seriously - lots of us (not to name drop, but Yooper and Denny Conn included) leave dry hops in he keg from the day it's kegged to the day it kicks - weeks or months with no "grassiness." Grassy stuff from long dry hops is a myth.
Agtronic
Well-Known Member
One thing we need to stop doing is telling people that there are "absolute no noes", especially when it is nothing more than anecdotal information. I have never, ever tasted a grassy off flavour from dry hops. I have left beer for well over a month with a huge dry hop charge and never detected said grassy flavour. But make no mistake, that bit is based on my personal experience, it is not cold hard fact.
Do we know the first hop additions are still there on the 14th day?
Pretty sure Yoop at least was referring to keg-hopping in cold beer.
I have the same experience doing the same thing.
Does not translate to room temperature hopping.
Suit yourself. I disagree. Some strains do not do well past much more than a week in the fermentor...
Cheers!
DEATHMASTER
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3 days is the sweet spot for each dry hop addition. But the 5 biggest keys to great IPA's are:
1)purge
2)Purge
3)PURGE
4)PURGE!!!
5)keep it in suspension
Can't stress it enough, O2 is the enemy. Purge the fermenter before and after adding wort, anytime it's opened, when racking on dry hops and to the bottling bucket or keg.
And you don't want to lose all that lovely flavor and aroma you worked so hard for by dropping it all out of suspension so, no moss, no whirlflock and to crash. A yeast strain with some character and a tendency to bind to hop oils and keep them in suspension is a definite must as well.
1)purge
2)Purge
3)PURGE
4)PURGE!!!
5)keep it in suspension
Can't stress it enough, O2 is the enemy. Purge the fermenter before and after adding wort, anytime it's opened, when racking on dry hops and to the bottling bucket or keg.
And you don't want to lose all that lovely flavor and aroma you worked so hard for by dropping it all out of suspension so, no moss, no whirlflock and to crash. A yeast strain with some character and a tendency to bind to hop oils and keep them in suspension is a definite must as well.
Completely anecdotal but... I've come to believe that two dry hop additions are necessary depending on the result you're looking for. For me, I'll do the "biotransformation" addition at ~3 days, and follow that up with a second dry hopping ~4 days later.
If I only do a single dry hop at ~3 days, the finished beer lacks the expressive hop aromatics I get out of doing a second dry hop charge. I see it as dry hop flavor addition vs. dry hop aroma addition.
DEATHMASTER
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I do a small bitter charge(usually warrior) at 60, then a big aroma whirlpool at 150F for 15min, cool and throw it in the fermenter and hit it up with dry hops 3 days before bottling with excellent results. This adds all the flavor and aroma with less exposure to O2 and less risk of infection. I've tried 1 day, 3 day, 5 day and 7 day and 3 day is definitely the sweet spot
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