Does Extract Have to be boiled?

[Loweface]

I've been coming across recipes that use the "late addition" method of adding the extract with only a few minutes to go.

Considering the existence of no boil (kit&kilo) beer kits, and these very late addition recipes is the boiling of extract required?

As to say could you boil the hops in water (or partial mash wort) and add this to the fermenter with the extract already in it dissolved in some warm water.

I ask as I think that if possible this would be be a great way to prevent scorched wort, or even boilovers on kitchen stoves...

(Or is the aroma hops only fully utilised in wort?)

 

[Choguy03]

You need the sugars in the wort to be able to get any hop flavor out. The idea of late addition is to add a small amount, maybe 25% of the extract. This allows you to utilize your hops, then you add the rest at lets say 15 minutes left in boil.

 

[Loweface]

Thanks that is what I suspected.

It was recipies such as this one that has the bulk addition with 5 minutes to go that got me thinking...

 

[The Blow Leprechaun]

I believe ideally you want to add whatever portion of the extract is equivalent to the portion of water you're boiling. If you're making 5 gallons and boiling 2.5 of it, you want to add half it. This ensures that the wort gravity is equivalent to that of a full boil and so brewing software hop utilization calculations are accurate.

Although if your goal is just to save as much color as possible, I suppose using less could make sense.

 

[Grinder12000]

Actually using extract you need to take the amount of steeping grains into account also.

In Brewing Classic Styles there is a section on Partial Boils and some calcs you can do to see how much extract you should have in the boil.

its normally ion the 35-40% range

in your recipe with 3.75lb of steeping grains you should use 2 lb of extract and add the rest at the very end.

Hops and everything else is the same.

 

[Grinder12000]

If you are doing a 3 gallon partial boil

3.75lb steeping *24 = 90
90/3 = 30 gravity points

OG is 1.054 - gravity points = 1.024

24 gravity points / 12 = 2lb of extract in the boil.

Unless I'm wrong - but you are in the ballpark with 2 lbs.

 

[Loweface]

Thanks. Seems it was not quite as dumb a question as I was thinking...

Or to put it more acurately it is just as dumb as adding the entire extact to a partial boil

 

[homebrewer_99]

I boil 1.5 gals and only use 1 lb of DME...

 

[Grinder12000]

Not dumb at all using all the extract. I think ALL kits have that. I think it is a "tweak" to not pour all into a partial boil.

Here is my take on the entire process.

Lets say the perfect beer is rated 100.

I THINK you can make a beer that is 85 from a kit - but then there are 1000 tweaks to get that next 15 points.

I'm pretty new at this myself and every batch I make I WISH I would have done the newest "tweak" to the last batch.

 

[Bob]

IMO, you don't even need to boil the late-added extract. It should be sterilized by heat, of course, but needn't be boiled. According to most food-safety sources I've seen, a temperature of at least 160degF must be maintained for at least 30 seconds for successful sanitation. Thus, adding the extract at flameout will suffice; by the time you get your chiller hooked up and beer flowing through it and your chiller takes the temperature below the safe zone, the extract will be sanitized. This is even more effective for the extract brewer who chills in the sink, for it is a much slower process than counterflow chilling.

Cheers,

Bob

P.S. At least, the above has always worked for me!

 

[homebrewer_99]

I actually boil for 45 mins and steep the LA DME for 15 mins...

 

[MikeG]

If you are doing a 3 gallon partial boil

3.75lb steeping *24 = 90
90/3 = 30 gravity points

OG is 1.054 - gravity points = 1.024

24 gravity points / 12 = 2lb of extract in the boil.

Unless I'm wrong - but you are in the ballpark with 2 lbs.

The first variable, 24 (3.75 * 24), is that fixed?
The 2nd, 3 (90/3), 3 = # of gallons?
The 3rd, 12 (24/12) is that fixed too?

This is an awesome formula, can't wait to use this this weekend. Thanks!

 

[ibrewdou]

I'm an extract brewer and on batch no.5. This is the first batch that has required a late extract addition of 25% at 15 min. All the others were all in for the boil, so this will be new to me. I'm interested as to what the reasoning behind it is, as opposed to doing something wacky like adding 1/4 to 1/2 the extract after primary ferm has begun. Then even adding sugar or honey additions after that. (of course boiling said additions with adequate water per addit., so you eventually end up with 5 1/2 to 6 gal in the fermenter),resulting in a double or triple fermented beer. Perhaps even hold back a little yeast from your starter in a stearalized mason jar or test tube ( it does't take much!) for the bottling bucket. For that proper bottle conditioned result my belgian recipes add two OZ. of white or raw table sugar along with corn sugar at bottling. Perfect!!All those champagne-esqe bubbles rising up thru your glorious home brew, they're beautiful, they remind me of the fourth of july! ENJOY

 

[Grinder12000]

The first variable, 24 (3.75 * 24), is that fixed?
The 2nd, 3 (90/3), 3 = # of gallons?
The 3rd, 12 (24/12) is that fixed too?

24 is 24ppg and is fixed. It was explained to me once and . . well . .GONE. I'll get back to you on ppg.

3 does = 3gallons

the last is actually this
(24 * 3g)/36ppg = 2lb

This is all from Brewing Classic Styles (great book)

Also = put rest in after boil but before cooling - let stand for 1 minute to pasteurize - this will also make your wort lighter in color.

Steeping is a little different also. Heat water - THEN steep for 30 minutes. Also seeping water to grains should be LESS then 1 gallon per lb of grain. So you are OK there 3 gallons is less the 3.75

Hop like normal.

So many cool things in this hobby.

 

[MikeG]

...So many cool things in this hobby.

Chemistry, Math & Beer! Perfect combo (I think).

Thanks!