Do you think this will be ok?

[vampirebeer]

I brewed partial mash kits from Austin several times before. Then I took a few years off. I recently brewed 3 more PM batches and was hooked again.

I just bought the equipment necessary to BIAB and was kinda ready. My first was to be BM's centennial blonde Wednesday. The kids were sleeping over the in-laws and my wife suggested I take the time to brew...She's a keeper!

So I didn't really prepare and just went at it. Unfortunately, I didn't have any yeast on hand, but I didn't let that stop me.

Flame on at 7:15 8 gallons to 158 at 7:30. mashed in my gains, weighed my hops, cleaned my fermenter, drank a beer...

8:20 pulled the bag and flame on. rolling boil at 8:35 first hop addition. Sat in my chair and watched the wort boil and drank another beer or 2 as I did my hop additions, yeast nutrient, and whirlfloc.

9:28 put the lid on the kettle for the last 2 minutes of the boil.

9:30 flame out put the kettle in the garage and closed the door.

Yesterday at 5pm i went to the garage and put my wort into the fermenter and pitched the yeast then I cleaned my kettle.

I didn't see any reason to cool quickly because I could not pitch yeast. I didn't want to put it in my fermenter because it was really hot. I know people rack to a cube but I have a bucket.

I shortened my mash by 10 minutes because I read here that people are doing 30 minute mashes so I figured 50 would be cool. I shortened the boil by 5 minutes for basically the same reason.

Do you think I'll be ok?

 

[Hoppy2bmerry]

Sure, let us know how it turned out.

 

[user 125772]

+1 .... I don't see anything terrible going on there, but I assume you're concerned about the 20 hour delay in pitching.

...I think you'll find that there are a lot of folks that do the slow-cool method and produce fine beer.

 

[RM-MN]

The only thing that jumps out at me would be the final two hop additions and the slow cooling. Neither is wrong but usually the final hop additions are for flavor and aroma, not bittering but with the slow cooling your wort would remain hot for a long time which would turn the aroma and flavor hops into bittering hops. You may find this beer to be much more bitter than expected. If you put the pot into a tub of cool/cold water it will chill below hop isomerization temps quicker, preserving some of the hop flavor/aroma and lessen the bittering. A bit of ice in the water helps too.

The HDPE fermenter buckets can stand up to boiling wort. The bucket will be a little softer until the wort cools. Leaving it in the kettle is not a bad plan though. Putting the lid on at the end of the boil will pasteurize the lid but gives you the chance to boil over. Waiting until the boil is done still will allow pasteurization of the lid as the wort is still steaming hot for some time.

 

[wilserbrewer]

Fwiw, I have found the temperature drop from boiling to 170 much quicker with the lid off, and the temps are still high enough to avoid worries of not having the lid on...ymmv

The lid also seems to get darn hot when placed on the kettle at 170, guessing hot enough to pasteurize, but I usually give it a quick star san treatment. Likely not needed [emoji52]

 

[RM-MN]

Fwiw, I have found the temperature drop from boiling to 170 much quicker with the lid off, and the temps are still high enough to avoid worries of not having the lid on...ymmv

The lid also seems to get darn hot when placed on the kettle at 170, guessing hot enough to pasteurize, but I usually give it a quick star san treatment. Likely not needed [emoji52]

If you have a non-contact infrared thermometer it would only take a couple seconds to be sure of the temp. 150 would pasteurize in a few minutes, 140 takes longer but your wort cools slow enough for the 140 to be effective.

 

[doug293cz]

If you have a non-contact infrared thermometer it would only take a couple seconds to be sure of the temp. 150 would pasteurize in a few minutes, 140 takes longer but your wort cools slow enough for the 140 to be effective.

My infrared thermometer doesn't read correctly when measuring shiny metallic surfaces, like SS. I don't' know if newer ones are any better (mine's ~20 years old.) Interestingly, it reads water quite well, as long as there is no steam obscuring the view.

Brew on