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Do you need a 1 off Stainless part built for your system? Let's discuss it.
- Thread starter Jaybird
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imasickboy
Drinkasaurus extraordinarius
I've seen one in brass, but not stainless. I ended up just using a barb and tubing.
The brass ones, at least on Amazon, are leaded brass, which I prefer to not use. I found two in stainless online, but I'm not certain what is the exact type of flare used on the corny quick disconnects? Is it SAE-45, JIC-37, or something else? I also plan to combine with an order for one of NorCal's tri-clover Sanke keg conversion kits for pressurized fermentation. A 1/4" SS tee on the same order would be nice - already have the PRV and gauge.
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Hi Jay. How about a 2" Tc endcap with 4 x 3/8" NPT taps? I want to put four 1/2" cartridge heaters in your thrifty RIMs!
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Ya! I would finalize a design but that's the concept.
I am contemplating putting 4x 1500W cartridge heaters inside your thrifty RIMs to do on-demand sparge water heating. I currently do it with a 5500W element and it works great. Just thinking about how to make it better!
I am contemplating putting 4x 1500W cartridge heaters inside your thrifty RIMs to do on-demand sparge water heating. I currently do it with a 5500W element and it works great. Just thinking about how to make it better!
For reference, brewhardware sells the 1/4 ffl to mpt:
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/ffltomnpt.htm
Currently OOS though.
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/ffltomnpt.htm
Currently OOS though.
My preference would be to find a swivel version. Whomever brings one on the market will sell more than just a few when the word gets out.
Jaybird: is there any chance you possibly could get a 2" TC to 1.5" NPS adaptor just like this one? http://cdn.homebrewtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=387433&stc=1&d=1486153309
If so - what could it cost? I would need one for my 1.5" NPS heating element.. I run tri-phase electric brewing, and the 1.5" NPS elements can have 3x10mm rods instead of 3x6mm as the 1" NPS ones... also alot more space between them, so it is alot easier to clean....
If so - what could it cost? I would need one for my 1.5" NPS heating element.. I run tri-phase electric brewing, and the 1.5" NPS elements can have 3x10mm rods instead of 3x6mm as the 1" NPS ones... also alot more space between them, so it is alot easier to clean....
Just needed sometime to use it several times before I comment on it. Ordered this back in July 16;
quality of build is great, welds are perfect, end of tubing is nice and smooth no sharp edge. the spray head works great to get my conical clean with very little effort.
JayBird was great to work with, now I just need to think of the next thing I will need from him.
quality of build is great, welds are perfect, end of tubing is nice and smooth no sharp edge. the spray head works great to get my conical clean with very little effort.
JayBird was great to work with, now I just need to think of the next thing I will need from him.
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Just needed sometime to use it several times before I comment on it. Ordered this back in July 16;
View attachment 399305
quality of build is great, welds are perfect, end of tubing is nice and smooth no sharp edge. the spray head works great to get my conical clean with very little effort.
View attachment 399306
View attachment 399307
JayBird was great to work with, now I just need to think of the next thing I will need from him.
OUTSTANDING! Man we nailed that length of the blow off spot on didn't we? Looks killer!
I really enjoyed working with you as well David! I LOVE seeing a project like this come together!
Thanks for posting the picts and the positively kind words!
Hit me up next time! You know well fix you up...
Cheers
Jay
Don't think I got an answer for this one? (Post 366)?
Can you make your racking cane in 3/8" like this? http://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Racking-Cane-Stainless-Steel-1.5-Inch-Tri-Clover.html
You do know that jay is nor cal. So he can make you a exact copy of that.
Yes, I do - hence why I asked if he could do it in a different size...
Haha. I do see that now. Sorry.
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How many are you looking for? I don't keep 3/8" Stainless tubing on hand so I need to have an idea of the qty for material ordering? What did you want welded to it? 1.5" TC?
Cheers
Jay
I didn't even know you guys had these.. I have been wanting one for quite a while. Sonbish. I may have to break my buying hiatus
Well... you did say "1 off".
I only need one with 1.5" TC end. 36" is what I would be looking for.Also, still interested in a 1.5" TC cap with a oxygen wand welded to it (4" total from cap to end of stone).
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Well... you did say "1 off".
Also, still interested in a 1.5" TC cap with a oxygen wand welded to it (4" total from cap to end of stone).
I'll check it out. The stone is still on my list. Were working on a adaptable TC cap for use with a stone. Its the extension I am having trouble with.
Cheers
Jay
jmcquesten
Well-Known Member
The brass ones, at least on Amazon, are leaded brass, which I prefer to not use. I found two in stainless online, but I'm not certain what is the exact type of flare used on the corny quick disconnects? Is it SAE-45, JIC-37, or something else? I also plan to combine with an order for one of NorCal's tri-clover Sanke keg conversion kits for pressurized fermentation. A 1/4" SS tee on the same order would be nice - already have the PRV and gauge.
Here's an idea for a spunding/pressurized fermentation manifold setup. I just had a block of stainless machined with 5 - 1/4" npt ports to spund up to 3 kegs off one valve.
I'm sure Jay could take this idea in many directions. Enjoy.
View attachment 1496831002857.jpg
jmcquesten
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Drumminguy81
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Looking for a couple tri clamp cap style reducers. I need two maybe three that are 4" tri clamp cap to an offset 2" tri clamp ferrule. how much?
OP
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So am I understanding this correctly. You want a 4" TC cap drilled for a 2" TC ferrule that is just drilled as close to the edge of the 4" cap "not in the center" or do you actually want it like a tube between the 2 and REALLY build a measured offset? Hand draw me a picture if you can.
Cheers
Jay
Cheers
Jay
Drumminguy81
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Exactly like this one brewershardware sells but with 2" instead of 1.5".
https://www.brewershardware.com/Tri-Clover-Compatible-4-X-1_5-Cap-Style-Reducer-Offset.html
https://www.brewershardware.com/Tri-Clover-Compatible-4-X-1_5-Cap-Style-Reducer-Offset.html
Hey @Jaybird,
What about a male to male camlock coupler to splice two female camlock end hoses together? I figured this would help during clean up when recirculating cleaner/rinsing. I've only seen the female GHT/male cam lock adapters.
Dumb question, but how hard would it be to have a custom drip tray fabbed up? I recently bought an 8 tap H tower and thought about a drip tray where there would be cutouts near the two posts. Kinda like this one.
Maybe the screen part of the tray can have the "Cheers!" moniker on it like you do for your false bottoms.
What about a male to male camlock coupler to splice two female camlock end hoses together? I figured this would help during clean up when recirculating cleaner/rinsing. I've only seen the female GHT/male cam lock adapters.
Dumb question, but how hard would it be to have a custom drip tray fabbed up? I recently bought an 8 tap H tower and thought about a drip tray where there would be cutouts near the two posts. Kinda like this one.
Maybe the screen part of the tray can have the "Cheers!" moniker on it like you do for your false bottoms.
Just picked up my Kegco Brite Tank and would really like a thermowell in the cap.
Is that something you can make, either as an add-on or new build?
Is that something you can make, either as an add-on or new build?
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Yeah We can do that. I'll PM you a price and time frame. Do you need any clamps or gaskets?
Cheers
Jay
OP
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Send me that lid. I can add a thermowell for $25 + shipping. Not a problem at all.
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Just send me your money...LOL
Cheers
Jay
Cheers
Jay
OP
OP
Hey @Jaybird,
What about a male to male camlock coupler to splice two female camlock end hoses together? I figured this would help during clean up when recirculating cleaner/rinsing. I've only seen the female GHT/male cam lock adapters.
Dumb question, but how hard would it be to have a custom drip tray fabbed up? I recently bought an 8 tap H tower and thought about a drip tray where there would be cutouts near the two posts. Kinda like this one.
Maybe the screen part of the tray can have the "Cheers!" moniker on it like you do for your false bottoms.
My break is probably a tad small and not able to do the corners like a good finger break.
Would love to though!
Cheers
Jay
PM Sent...
I feel like an idiot for the camlock coupler suggestion.....Never occurred to me to use a FPT/MPT male cams butted together. :cross:
On the drip tray, what's the hardest part, the corners that wrap the posts or the standard 90 corners at the front of the tray?
If dimensions help, the total width is 24", posts' diameter is 3", and the center to center between the posts is 16".
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D all the above
Don't feel like an idiot for the cam lock thing. It's why I am here man! To help make the hard things easy! I mean I have kind of built a business around "Solutions"
Cheers
Jay
Olive Drab
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Have you made one of these for a keggle? Essentially a stainless e-BIAB so no plastic/synthetic bag needs to be used. If not, please let me know on a estimated price and also a diameter/height
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Doing 1 right now for a guy for his boiler. You tell me the diameter and the height and I can quote you a price.
Cheers
Jay
I am looking for a low profile plug for an unused 13/16" hole in a stainless kettle.
I am currently using a knockout plug (basically a metal disc sandwich with a neoprene washer) for an electrical box, but it's mild steel, so it rusted.
I am currently using a knockout plug (basically a metal disc sandwich with a neoprene washer) for an electrical box, but it's mild steel, so it rusted.
