DIY/poor man's floating diptube for clear beer

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beervoid said:
I've also noticed that the tube that is used to cover the filter in order to make it stick in the hole of the stainless steel float is too small. There was no way for me to cram it on there. I would order a mm or 2 larger.
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Same here. The dudes instructions say you don't need i. I have no idea how he makes it work without it. Luckily I had some 3/8 ID silicone tubing sitting around to use. Which works fine.

A note for those making this build you only need like 1 inch of 3/8 tubing per floating dip tube. Most LHBS carry it by the foor for maybe $2-3 per foot.
 
LittlejohnBrew said:
Do you put this tubing in the entire length of the bore or just an inch or so at the end wedged on?
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Just 3/4" or so. Shorter is better as it interferes with putting the smaller tubing into the center of the filter.

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Crane, can I ask what ID and OD each of those hose pieces are in mm? US and European specs are often different when referring to tubing, sonetimes using OD and sometimes ID.

Plus, the original blog post links to the same tube for both pieces.

Also, is the smaller tube pushed over the end of the filter or just being held in place by the larger tube?
 
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DaveGillespie said:
Crane, can I ask what ID and OD each of those hose pieces are in mm? US and European specs are often different when referring to tubing, sonetimes using OD and sometimes ID.

Plus, the original blog post links to the same tube for both pieces.

Also, is the smaller tube pushed over the end of the filter or just being held in place by the larger tube?
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The sizes are 6/10mm and 10/14mm ID/OD. The smaller tube fits inside the filter housing, the larger tubing goes in the outside of the filter.
 
I have three of these on order, they're a new offering from Williams Brewing:

https://www.williamsbrewing.com/Top-Draw-Beer-Pick-Up-Tube-P4643.aspx

Seems like a much better deal than the Fermentasaurus because it comes with the short diptube and the hoses are designed to slip over the tubing instead of inside.

I'll post with my impressions once I get them and take them for a spin.
 
LittlejohnBrew said:
Let us know how it goes. The DIY option has worked for me and is half the price.l though.
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Yeah, that seems like a great option for most. I also ferment in kegs and often do no-chill brewing, so I like the idea that all of the parts in the Williams option are heat-tolerant.
 
Curious for folks that have made these based on the blog linked, how did you get the tubing on the short dip tube?

If I connect the tubing to the dip tube and try to insert it into my keg it's too big and won't fit.

If I install the dip tube there is no way to contort my hand around to try to get the tubing on inside the keg.
 
drgonzo2k2 said:
Curious for folks that have made these based on the blog linked, how did you get the tubing on the short dip tube?

If I connect the tubing to the dip tube and try to insert it into my keg it's too big and won't fit.

If I install the dip tube there is no way to contort my hand around to try to get the tubing on inside the keg.
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Install the dip tube first. Then, find a wife, friend, child, or dentist with smaller hands and contortion ability.
 
You mean the fermentasaurus type i posted originally? Or the big ass bouy-looking type?

For me- once i bought larger diameter/softer hose it works great. I generally ferment in carboy with the co2 blow off purging the serving keg. That way i can put this on the keg diptube and never have to open the keg again.

The soft silicone is cheap. And your keg should already have a dip tube. Williams seems expensive if you’re looking for more than one. Jusy buy the floats and the tubing off ebay or wherever else.

Haven’t tried the bouy type. Dont see a need.
 
drgonzo2k2 said:
Curious for folks that have made these based on the blog linked, how did you get the tubing on the short dip tube?

If I connect the tubing to the dip tube and try to insert it into my keg it's too big and won't fit.

If I install the dip tube there is no way to contort my hand around to try to get the tubing on inside the keg.
Click to expand...

Hah! Seriously though, this seems to be an impossible task. You can't even see inside the keg and trying to do it by feel just isn't working.

Are folks connecting the tubing to the dip tube and then putting it into the keg or are they installing the dip tube and then the tubing?
 
SanPancho said:
You mean the fermentasaurus type i posted originally? Or the big ass bouy-looking type?

For me- once i bought larger diameter/softer hose it works great. I generally ferment in carboy with the co2 blow off purging the serving keg. That way i can put this on the keg diptube and never have to open the keg again.

The soft silicone is cheap. And your keg should already have a dip tube. Williams seems expensive if you’re looking for more than one. Jusy buy the floats and the tubing off ebay or wherever else.

Haven’t tried the bouy type. Dont see a need.
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Sorry, wasn't sure if you were replying to me or not, but if so, I was talking about the kind shown in this post.
 
Yep. Big ass bouy type.

Dont have one, but dont see the need. Ball works fine.
 
With my set up i dont need it. I can see into carboy so i know when hops have dropped and can manipulate the racking tube into perfect spot. Nothing gets into the kegwhen i start the pressure transfer.

If you dont have that ability then id see how you might want a filter. After coming up with my process i realized i didn’t need a filter so i never bothered trying to find one.

But i would guess you could use those same wine filter, preferably with barb end, and attach it to ball so it rests horizontally under the ball.

Haven’t tried it tho.
 
I just bought two of the Williams Brewing Top Draw floating dip tubes. On the site, it suggests using your existing long dip tube (the one being replaced by the floating dip tube) on the gas in side so you are carbonating the keg from the bottom instead of the top. They suggest this will carbonate the keg quicker. Has anyone tied this? If so, does not work? Wouldn't this stir up any trub/hops on the bottom of the keg defeating the purpose for the floating dip tube?
 
pvpeacock said:
I just bought two of the Williams Brewing Top Draw floating dip tubes. On the site, it suggests using your existing long dip tube (the one being replaced by the floating dip tube) on the gas in side so you are carbonating the keg from the bottom instead of the top. They suggest this will carbonate the keg quicker. Has anyone tied this? If so, does not work? Wouldn't this stir up any trub/hops on the bottom of the keg defeating the purpose for the floating dip tube?
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Never tried this, but this sounds like a terrible idea to me. Aside from what you said above, you also have a problem where if the keg ever gets more pressure than the gas input (eg the gas bottle runs out, or pressure drops when you connect another keg) you'll have beer sucked into your gas lines.

Worst case is the beer gets sucked back all the way into your regulator (because you don't have check valves on the lines). This usually wrecks the regulator. Best case (assuming you have check valves) is that you now have dirty gas lines that need cleaning.

There are better ways to quickly carbonate a keg IMO.
 
Sadu said:
Never tried this, but this sounds like a terrible idea to me. Aside from what you said above, you also have a problem where if the keg ever gets more pressure than the gas input (eg the gas bottle runs out, or pressure drops when you connect another keg) you'll have beer sucked into your gas lines.

Worst case is the beer gets sucked back all the way into your regulator (because you don't have check valves on the lines). This usually wrecks the regulator. Best case (assuming you have check valves) is that you now have dirty gas lines that need cleaning.

There are better ways to quickly carbonate a keg IMO.
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I think another interesting benefit could be the possibility of rousing the hops a little bit for better extraction.
 
That's why they have those keg lids with extra gas in post mounted on lid going to internally connected tube to carbing stone --- You'd use that input when first-kegged beer needs carbing, barely trickling in gas, slowly increasing pressure, you want the CO2 bubbles from carb stone to dissolve/absorb in liquid before making it up to the surface. After you reached proper pressure for the temp, you switch over to "regular" gas in so you aren't blowing CO2 into a stirring-up-situation.
 
Williams Brewing does warm about the risk of beer getting into the regulator if you don’t use a check valve. I have check valves, so I was more interested in whether it speeds the carbing process and whether it stirs up the sediment
 
So I'm trying to get the big-ass buoy-type floating dip tube working (using the http://think.gusius.com/diy-keg-floating-dip-tube plans), and I'm having a weird problem. The buoy and filter float just fine, when I add the weight of the tubing they float just fine, however, when I attach the tubing to the dip tube in the liquid post, it stops floating. Either it will just not float, like the tubing is holding the buoy in place, or if I pull the tubing a little bit, it will float, but with the filter upside down. As you can imagine, this isn't exactly conducive to pouring a great pint of beer.

I followed the steps exactly, as far as I can tell, with two exceptions: I accidentally ordered 3m of 10/14mm, instead of the 6/10mm. The 10mm ID tubing fits perfectly through the buoy and over the barb of the filter. I cut the tubing so that the buoy setup will barely lay flat on the bottom of the keg. This basically works out to the tubing being about 1/2" above the bottom of the keg, when hanging straight down from the dip tube, so call it 23", give or take. The other is that I used 1/4" 1.25 or 1.75" carriage bolts 'cuz I had 'em on hand, instead of the M8 bolts. Can't imagine that'd make any difference, but there it is.

So my best guess is that the tubing is causing some kind of tension that's interfering with the buoyancy of the float, 'cuz if it's "stuck" and I mess with the tubing, that's when it'll float up upside down.

Any insights would be greatly appreciated, I'm mystified why this is happening.

And I've thoroughly cleaned the buoy and the keg since taking this picture, so no need to give me too much crap about that :)​

Float With Filter and Tubing.jpg Float With Filter.jpg Float With Tubing Attached.jpg
 
kdw2pd said:
So I'm trying to get the big-ass buoy-type floating dip tube working (using the http://think.gusius.com/diy-keg-floating-dip-tube plans), and I'm having a weird problem. The buoy and filter float just fine, when I add the weight of the tubing they float just fine, however, when I attach the tubing to the dip tube in the liquid post, it stops floating. Either it will just not float, like the tubing is holding the buoy in place, or if I pull the tubing a little bit, it will float, but with the filter upside down. As you can imagine, this isn't exactly conducive to pouring a great pint of beer.

I followed the steps exactly, as far as I can tell, with two exceptions: I accidentally ordered 3m of 10/14mm, instead of the 6/10mm. The 10mm ID tubing fits perfectly through the buoy and over the barb of the filter. I cut the tubing so that the buoy setup will barely lay flat on the bottom of the keg. This basically works out to the tubing being about 1/2" above the bottom of the keg, when hanging straight down from the dip tube, so call it 23", give or take. The other is that I used 1/4" 1.25 or 1.75" carriage bolts 'cuz I had 'em on hand, instead of the M8 bolts. Can't imagine that'd make any difference, but there it is.

So my best guess is that the tubing is causing some kind of tension that's interfering with the buoyancy of the float, 'cuz if it's "stuck" and I mess with the tubing, that's when it'll float up upside down.

Any insights would be greatly appreciated, I'm mystified why this is happening.

And I've thoroughly cleaned the buoy and the keg since taking this picture, so no need to give me too much crap about that :)​

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Few suggestions:
1. glue/epoxy the counter weight to the end that the filter is attached that way it will want to point down.

2. Your keg has rust on the inside. Scrub down with aluminum oxide sandpaper until the rust is gone and repassivate (citric acid, bar keepers friend, other acid)
 
popsicleian said:
I have three of these on order, they're a new offering from Williams Brewing:
https://www.williamsbrewing.com/Top-Draw-Beer-Pick-Up-Tube-P4643.aspx
Seems like a much better deal than the Fermentasaurus because it comes with the short diptube and the hoses are designed to slip over the tubing instead of inside.
I'll post with my impressions once I get them and take them for a spin.
Click to expand...
Neat! Glad someone local picked up the slack when fermentasaurus distributers couldn't keep that piece in stock in the USA. Last year, I watched for months to catch one.
Price is essentially the same too.
 
kdw2pd said:
So I'm trying to get the big-ass buoy-type floating dip tube working (using the http://think.gusius.com/diy-keg-floating-dip-tube plans), and I'm having a weird problem. The buoy and filter float just fine, when I add the weight of the tubing they float just fine, however, when I attach the tubing to the dip tube in the liquid post, it stops floating. Either it will just not float, like the tubing is holding the buoy in place, or if I pull the tubing a little bit, it will float, but with the filter upside down. As you can imagine, this isn't exactly conducive to pouring a great pint of beer.

I followed the steps exactly, as far as I can tell, with two exceptions: I accidentally ordered 3m of 10/14mm, instead of the 6/10mm. The 10mm ID tubing fits perfectly through the buoy and over the barb of the filter. I cut the tubing so that the buoy setup will barely lay flat on the bottom of the keg. This basically works out to the tubing being about 1/2" above the bottom of the keg, when hanging straight down from the dip tube, so call it 23", give or take. The other is that I used 1/4" 1.25 or 1.75" carriage bolts 'cuz I had 'em on hand, instead of the M8 bolts. Can't imagine that'd make any difference, but there it is.

So my best guess is that the tubing is causing some kind of tension that's interfering with the buoyancy of the float, 'cuz if it's "stuck" and I mess with the tubing, that's when it'll float up upside down.

Any insights would be greatly appreciated, I'm mystified why this is happening.

And I've thoroughly cleaned the buoy and the keg since taking this picture, so no need to give me too much crap about that :)​

View attachment 621116 View attachment 621117 View attachment 621118
Click to expand...
Of The bat, I'm thinking the hose is too long and heavy for the float and there isn't enough counterbalance on the end of the screen. Did you get a silicone hose and not PVC? that might make a difference.
 
Bigdaddyale said:
Of The bat, I'm thinking the hose is too long and heavy for the float and there isn't enough counterbalance on the end of the screen. Did you get a silicone hose and not PVC? that might make a difference.
Click to expand...

Yes, silicone hose is necessary. Weight was something that came to mind to me too.

I can't figure out your second picture. Is that supposed to be just of the stainless float, to ensure that it floats? Otherwise, something is seriously wrong.

The one thing that I think the original gusius description left out is that the filter needs to be kept next to the float in order for it to work. If the float is free to roam up and down the length of silicone hose, then it's not going to work, or you'll get your picture 3. Did you add an extra piece of tubing so that the filter can be wedged into the opening of the float, keeping them together? Another method I think I read here is using some stainless steel wire to connect the filter and the float.

For what it's worth, I drilled a smallish hole into the end of the filter housing and used a coarse-threaded stainless steel bolt, just threading the bolt partway into the housing. The friction keeps it secure (no need for an internal nut), and it provides a little more leverage on the counterweight to keep the orientation proper. I'm not sure if it's really necessary, and it might not be the difference for you, but it worked for me.
 
Yes, the 2nd picture was just testing the float. Step 1 was testing float + filter, step 2 was float, filter, and tubing, basically process of elimination. It floated with the tubing not attached to the diptube, so I don't think it's the weight of the silicone tubing. And yeah, silicone, not PVC.

And yes, I found out the hard way that you need to keep the float and filter connected, I had exactly what you described happened. In Picture 2 and 3, instead of threading 6mm ID tubing through the valve and into the filter, and then using the 10 mm tubing to connect the filter to the float, I just threaded 10mm tubing through the float and onto the barb of the filter. It may be that the 10mm tubing is too heavy, but if so, why would it float just fine when not attached to the dip tube?

I have the bolt threaded through like in the gusius description, pushed through all the way with an internal nut. I'll try pulling it out partway. I'll also try some 6mm tubing and see if that makes a difference.
 
kdw2pd said:
Yes, the 2nd picture was just testing the float. Step 1 was testing float + filter, step 2 was float, filter, and tubing, basically process of elimination. It floated with the tubing not attached to the diptube, so I don't think it's the weight of the silicone tubing. And yeah, silicone, not PVC.

And yes, I found out the hard way that you need to keep the float and filter connected, I had exactly what you described happened. In Picture 2 and 3, instead of threading 6mm ID tubing through the valve and into the filter, and then using the 10 mm tubing to connect the filter to the float, I just threaded 10mm tubing through the float and onto the barb of the filter. It may be that the 10mm tubing is too heavy, but if so, why would it float just fine when not attached to the dip tube?

I have the bolt threaded through like in the gusius description, pushed through all the way with an internal nut. I'll try pulling it out partway. I'll also try some 6mm tubing and see if that makes a difference.
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Try the 6mm tube and add another nut to the bolt and see what happens. From the first picture, it looks like the tube has been sitting in what I perceive to be starsan and might have absorbed too much liquid and made it heavy.
 
I’m pretty sure the problem is the tubing. Either it’s too heavy and pulling the wrong end of the float down, or it’s too stiff to allow the counterweight in the filter to point down. When the tubing is out of the keg, as in picture 1, there’s no force pulling on the other end of the float and the counterweight points down. But when you put the tubing in the keg, either the weight or the stiffness of the tubing is applying enough force to push the counterweight out of the liquid.
 
adman said:
I’m pretty sure the problem is the tubing. Either it’s too heavy and pulling the wrong end of the float down, or it’s too stiff to allow the counterweight in the filter to point down. When the tubing is out of the keg, as in picture 1, there’s no force pulling on the other end of the float and the counterweight points down. But when you put the tubing in the keg, either the weight or the stiffness of the tubing is applying enough force to push the counterweight out of the liquid.
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This was spot-on. I bought some 6mm tubing, like the Gusius instructions said to, and it works just fine! Rather than clogging up this post further, I made a post documenting the dumb things I did trying to get this to work. Figured it might be of interest to folks in this thread, wanting to make one. Turns out, if you pay attention and buy the right stuff, they're great.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/...-screwed-stuff-up-so-you-dont-have-to.664945/
 
Was curious if the floating of ball/cylinder/DIY and tube affect carbonation/foam inside of keg?
 
just received my parts to build my wine filter/sous vide ball floating dip tube
excited for the inaugural trail run this weekend!
I'll report back either way
 
andrewmaixner said:
No, as long as you aren't messing with the standard gas-in assembly, there will be no issue.
Click to expand...
Sorry I mean did floating ball and tube decrease already carbonated beer. Like a spoon shake in glass of beer? Or not cause such problems if i don't shake/move keg in kegerator.

Edit: Glas of beer is open and there is no counter pressure,keg is under presure so no issues ?
 
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