DIY/poor man's floating diptube for clear beer

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I use the same fermentasaurus floats in 8 kegs. They all work as you would expect them to, however I never used the provided silicone tubing. Instead, I picked up 5 meters of 7mmX10mm silicone tubing off amazon that slips over the diptube ends (easily) - almost too easily at times though it hasn't caused my any grief (knock on wood). If I was to do it again I would go with 1/4"x3/8" (something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZHO44J/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20).

As far as your "no/low flow" issue is concerned, I once had a similar issue with a standard diptube. The issue turned out to be that I had pushed the poppet base (3-pronged base) too far into the post which caused the poppet spring to compress too much that resulted in needing more pressure to open the poppet than the disconnect provides. You can easily test the poppet pressure by depressing it with your thumb for a quick burst to see how much pressure is needed to get it open (put a towel over you hand so you don't spray the ceiling :D). If you're familiar with the pressure required to activate the poppet then you'll know if that's the issue, and if you're not familiar with the needed pressure then test the gas side poppet as well since they should be very similar in needed pressure.

One other potential (because it's possible it's not an issue inside the keg at all) is the liquid serving line. Check and ensure that it's freely flowing.
 
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is anybody using any sort of filter/screen the DIY setups? there's the dip tube screens from morebeer and AIH but not sure i want to cut one up to use it this way.
 
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LittlejohnBrew said:
The blog below are using these, but unfortunately not any feedback on how well it works. Looks like it should work though. Parts sourced through AliExpress and eBay will cost about $7 per floating dip tube with screen. Think I'm gonna give this design a shot.

http://think.gusius.com/diy-keg-floating-dip-tube
Click to expand...

You beat me to it. I've constructed these and they work. Not the exact same parts, but very close. I couldn't get my filter to wedge into the hole running through the float, to keep them connected. I ended up fitting a short piece of vinyl tubing over the silicone tubing at that joint, and now they stay connected. I also used a slightly heavier bolt, and had it extend out a bit away from the end filter, to better ensure that the pickup tube says below the liquid surface. In testing, I found that sometimes it didn't point completely down, so I did it that way as extra insurance. The last difference with the ones I made was that I just drilled a slightly smaller hole into the end of the filter and had the stainless screw kinda tap its own threads when screwing it in, for a tight fit. And I put the nut up by the end of the head of the screw (in other words, screwed on all the way). I couldn't figure out how to get a nut inside the filter, as shown in his picture, without ruining the filter.

I was a little skeptical that it would work , because I figured that the float should be on the other end, with the tubing and filter coming up through the liquid. But it works. In initial testing I filled up a keg of water, drained it, refilled it, drained it, shook it around a bit, etc. Every time I looked at it, the float was oriented properly, and the liquid flowed!

The most satisfying moment was when I used it on a keg that I fermented in. I did a closed-loop transfer to another keg for serving, and when I opened the fermenting keg I saw the float/filter sitting on a nice firm cake, with very little beer left behind.

SanPancho - did you ever figure out the problem with yours?
 
mongoose33 said:
Once the keg is clean, I'll dump in a pint or so of Star-san. I'll reseat the lid and swish around, inverting the keg, making sure all the surfaces are exposed to it. Then I'll open the lid and invert the keg and dump out the star-san.

I don't use a standard airlock on my fermenter--I use a stopper with a tube stuck in it--a bottle filling wand is perfect for that, just cut off about 3". From that I use some 5/16" silicone tubing, but any vinyl that fit would work as well. Usually I'd feed that into a jar w/ star-san, but now what I do is attach that 5/15" tubing to a black Liquid QD, and connect it to a keg. Release the PRV to allow the keg to vent, and all the gas produced in fermentation is purging the keg. There is enough CO2 produced to virtually clear the keg of air and oxygen. When fermentation ceases, I disconnect the tube from the keg, the undo the PRV so it seals again. Voila! Keg full of CO2, no bottled CO2 used to do it, and the CO2 is actually more pure than what comes from the bottle.

I just got a new conical, brewed with it Thursday for the first time. Here's how I captured the gases from the fermenter to feed the keg:

View attachment 566305

It's a little weird, but it works. Rather than an airlock--which I could use with a different configuration--I have a gas ball-lock on the gas manifold on the top of the conical. That is connected to a rather odd line--one end has the gas QD, the other has a black Liquid QD. I could connect that end directly to the keg, but in this case I connected it to the jumper line I used to rack the beer to the keg. I used one of these to connect the two black QDs together:

View attachment 566306
You can get these from brew hardware here: https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/ball_lock_jumperpost.htm

FWIW: I also use these to daisy chain faucets when cleaning my keezer lines. This is a bit of thread drift but it's probably worth noting:

View attachment 566308
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This is a rad set-up. Can you tell me if this is correct?

If I was planning to dry hop then I would need to throw the pellets in the *sanitized and cleaned* keg, purge a few times, then hook up my blow-off tube into keg, open PRV, and once fermentation is finished, disconnect from keg, then close transfer through floating dip tube? Did we decided that it's fine to do a transfer through the floating dip tube?
 
Fictional said:
This is a rad set-up. Can you tell me if this is correct?

If I was planning to dry hop then I would need to throw the pellets in the *sanitized and cleaned* keg, purge a few times, then hook up my blow-off tube into keg, open PRV, and once fermentation is finished, disconnect from keg, then close transfer through floating dip tube? Did we decided that it's fine to do a transfer through the floating dip tube?
Click to expand...

I haven't done a dry hop with this setup but what you describe is what I'm going to do when I do. I'd probably put the hops in a hop sock, add a couple of large stainless steel washers for weight, and tie it off. That way it stays at the bottom instead of interfering w/ the floating dip tube.

Or you could just toss them in loose and plan on the floating dip tube to keep clear of them until the very end. I might do that too.
 
Fictional said:
This is a rad set-up. Can you tell me if this is correct?

If I was planning to dry hop then I would need to throw the pellets in the *sanitized and cleaned* keg, purge a few times, then hook up my blow-off tube into keg, open PRV, and once fermentation is finished, disconnect from keg, then close transfer through floating dip tube? Did we decided that it's fine to do a transfer through the floating dip tube?
Click to expand...

You'd probably want to buy or make a spunding valve (pressure release valve) that you can use on the sanitized and cleaned keg, rather than just opening the PRV. In theory, if you're always having CO2 from the fermentation flowing through the keg and out the PRV you should be okay, but there's more opportunity for O2 to get in through the open PRV. The pressure release valve is essentially one-way (out). I'd like to see someone make a spunding setup to screw into the PRV hole, with a nice gauge and adjustment dial. After all, the PRV is just a seal that's biased to the hole with a spring that's designed to give way at about 120psi or so. Likewise, the variable-pressure release valve is the same idea, but with a lighter spring and the ability to manually adjust its tension to release at a desired pressure.

I've done transfers through floating dip tubes with screens. Both directions - from fermenter, and into a serving keg. Anything that gets past one screen is going to get past the other. But if you don't use a screen on your fermenter's floating dip tube, then I suppose it could be possible to pick up some trub or hop debris and clog up the dip tube on the receiving keg.

FYI, FWIW, I haven't tried dry hopping in the serving keg like that (yet), but it sounds pretty good in theory, and your procedure sounds right. Some people talk about (in theory) the CO2 flowing through that serving keg potentially carrying away the hop aroma compounds, but I think with pellet hops it would be minimal. I do wonder what would happen to them if they're sitting in a couple ounces of starsan water for a week or two. That's one of the reasons I haven't tried it yet - not willing to lose a batch of beer over it. I'm thinking about rigging up some sort of mechanism, maybe with magnets (stir bar magnet?), to hold some hop pellets in the inside of the lid of a corny keg until I want to release them. Like maybe hold them up there through primary fermentation and drop them in a few hours or day before transferring to a serving keg. Or hold them up in the serving keg until it's full, and then drop them in. The idea would be to avoid opening any of the vessels after they're O2-free, but to still be able to do a dry hop charge at a desired timing.
 
Veets said:
You'd probably want to buy or make a spunding valve (pressure release valve) that you can use on the sanitized and cleaned keg, rather than just opening the PRV. In theory, if you're always having CO2 from the fermentation flowing through the keg and out the PRV you should be okay, but there's more opportunity for O2 to get in through the open PRV. The pressure release valve is essentially one-way (out). I'd like to see someone make a spunding setup to screw into the PRV hole, with a nice gauge and adjustment dial. After all, the PRV is just a seal that's biased to the hole with a spring that's designed to give way at about 120psi or so. Likewise, the variable-pressure release valve is the same idea, but with a lighter spring and the ability to manually adjust its tension to release at a desired pressure.

I've done transfers through floating dip tubes with screens. Both directions - from fermenter, and into a serving keg. Anything that gets past one screen is going to get past the other. But if you don't use a screen on your fermenter's floating dip tube, then I suppose it could be possible to pick up some trub or hop debris and clog up the dip tube on the receiving keg.

FYI, FWIW, I haven't tried dry hopping in the serving keg like that (yet), but it sounds pretty good in theory, and your procedure sounds right. Some people talk about (in theory) the CO2 flowing through that serving keg potentially carrying away the hop aroma compounds, but I think with pellet hops it would be minimal. I do wonder what would happen to them if they're sitting in a couple ounces of starsan water for a week or two. That's one of the reasons I haven't tried it yet - not willing to lose a batch of beer over it. I'm thinking about rigging up some sort of mechanism, maybe with magnets (stir bar magnet?), to hold some hop pellets in the inside of the lid of a corny keg until I want to release them. Like maybe hold them up there through primary fermentation and drop them in a few hours or day before transferring to a serving keg. Or hold them up in the serving keg until it's full, and then drop them in. The idea would be to avoid opening any of the vessels after they're O2-free, but to still be able to do a dry hop charge at a desired timing.
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Very interesting. I Like that idea. Now I'm counting on you to figure out a way to do it and let me know! Haha. So you're saying that the method I mentioned has 2 potential pitfalls

1.) o2 coming in through the open PRV.

2.) Dry hop charge sitting in a little bit of residual star-san for a week or two.


Is that correct?
 
I think that with the rate that CO2 is coming off the fermenter, O2 is going to have a hard time swimming upstream. I actually have a newer way that I do this, shown in the pic below. I'm still using an airlock, just at the end. I like that because I can easily monitor fermentation and see when it slows. I've also got an airlock.

I use a Tilt as well, primarily so I can time the rise in temp for my accelerated lager schedule. But the bubbling certainly tells me when I'm close to done (as the Tilt does too).

purgingkeg.jpg
 
Fictional said:
Very interesting. I Like that idea. Now I'm counting on you to figure out a way to do it and let me know! Haha. So you're saying that the method I mentioned has 2 potential pitfalls

1.) o2 coming in through the open PRV.

2.) Dry hop charge sitting in a little bit of residual star-san for a week or two.

Is that correct?
Click to expand...

I'd agree that if active fermentation has ceased, O2 will come in through the open PRV. In the previous post I show how I am dealing with that.

As far as the hop charge sitting in star-san....there is hardly any star san left in the keg when I invert it. You can even blow it out of there if you want--just pressurize the keg a bit, then put a QD and tube on the OUT post, and rock the keg to blow out any star-san that remains in the bottom of the keg. It works.

I hadn't thought about losing hop aroma/flavors as the CO2 washes over it and out the PRV. I'm sure some of it must be lost, but it's probably true that a lot isn't touched as it is pressed inside the hop pellets. Maybe adding an additional ounce of hop pellets would offset that.
 
mongoose33 said:
I'd agree that if active fermentation has ceased, O2 will come in through the open PRV. In the previous post I show how I am dealing with that.

As far as the hop charge sitting in star-san....there is hardly any star san left in the keg when I invert it. You can even blow it out of there if you want--just pressurize the keg a bit, then put a QD and tube on the OUT post, and rock the keg to blow out any star-san that remains in the bottom of the keg. It works.

I hadn't thought about losing hop aroma/flavors as the CO2 washes over it and out the PRV. I'm sure some of it must be lost, but it's probably true that a lot isn't touched as it is pressed inside the hop pellets. Maybe adding an additional ounce of hop pellets would offset that.
Click to expand...

That sounds like a plan to me! Now, riddle me this:

1.) I planned on spunding to carbonate this batch. Do I add sugar (to carbonate) along with the dry hops and let that sit in the keg for 5-6 days before I transfer liquid into it so that it carbonates while it dry hops for the 2nd time? Or do I add sugar to serving keg? (Will there be enough yeast in suspension to eat it up?)

2.) when It comes time to transfer from my SS brew bucket into dry hopped keg this is what my set up would look like: a blow-off tube with a ball lock at the end that was being used to harvest co2. Now that tube I will have disconnected from the keg once fermentation slowed. So now it’s just dangling from the top doing nothing? So when I need to push liquid from BrewBucket into keg will gravity do this or will there be some kind of weird lack of equilibrium going on where the liquid won’t move unless I pop the lid open or push it with co2?


Sorry if that doesn’t make sense. It’s hard for me to explain It seems.
 
Fictional said:
That sounds like a plan to me! Now, riddle me this:

1.) I planned on spunding to carbonate this batch. Do I add sugar (to carbonate) along with the dry hops and let that sit in the keg for 5-6 days before I transfer liquid into it so that it carbonates while it dry hops for the 2nd time? Or do I add sugar to serving keg? (Will there be enough yeast in suspension to eat it up?)
Click to expand...

That's what I would do, if fermentation was complete. Otherwise, I'd transfer with about 6 points of gravity remaining, and let what's left of the wort sugar to feed the beast...I mean, yeast.

2.) when It comes time to transfer from my SS brew bucket into dry hopped keg this is what my set up would look like: a blow-off tube with a ball lock at the end that was being used to harvest co2. Now that tube I will have disconnected from the keg once fermentation slowed. So now it’s just dangling from the top doing nothing? So when I need to push liquid from BrewBucket into keg will gravity do this or will there be some kind of weird lack of equilibrium going on where the liquid won’t move unless I pop the lid open or push it with co2?

Sorry if that doesn’t make sense. It’s hard for me to explain It seems.
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No, it makes sense. Here's what I'd do:

1. Make sure the keg is lower than the Brewbucket so you can use gravity. If not, you'll have to pressurize the Brewbucket.

2. Connect a tube from the spigot on the BrewBucket to a black quick disconnect. You can blow the air out of the tube w/ CO2 from your tank or, if there's any residual pressure in the keg, connect the QD to the keg, and let that purge the tubing of air.

3. Reconnect that line dangling from the top of the brew bucket to the Gas-In post. Now all you have to do is open the spigot, and beer will drain into the keg. The CO2 in the keg will be fed back into the top of the Brewbucket, so you're not drawing in air while you drain into the keg.

If you've done this right, your beer should be coming into contact with minimal oxygen.

Here's a pic that shows what I mean with my own setup; btw, the only way I could connect the tubing I had to the stopper in the lid was to cut off an airlock. It's not necessary, and more recently I've just used a piece of clear plastic tubing from a bottle filler.

closedloopco2.jpg
 
Does anyone think that the floating dip tube could be modified to also function as a beer level indicator, like this?
https://www.ballandkeg.com/

I'm thinking some sort of plastic or teflon-coated magnet on the metal float, and trying to find some of those magnetic beads for the outside.
 
Veets said:
Does anyone think that the floating dip tube could be modified to also function as a beer level indicator, like this?
https://www.ballandkeg.com/

I'm thinking some sort of plastic or teflon-coated magnet on the metal float, and trying to find some of those magnetic beads for the outside.
Click to expand...

Seems like this thread is veering a little off-course, but that is an awesome idea. If the float were attached to a magnet in some manner, one could also use that to hold it in place with a strong external magnet. Then the float wouldn't bang around while flipping the keg to purge any excess sanitizer (assuming you still use the fill and purge method).
 
Attached are some photos of a few floating dip tubes I made this past weekend. Giving one a first try now. I only tested to see if it would float, but seems promising thus far.
 

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So far it appears to be working fine. Im using it in a keg that is being used both for fermentation and serving. It has included 3.75 oz of dry hops (mix of pellets and leaf). Right now it is cold crashing, and I have pulled off a pint with no trouble. So the dry hops aren't clogging the filter or getting through.

The beer is more hazy than expected though, but hopefully that improves over the next week or so. If it doesn't I may transfer to another keg including a floating dip tube.
 
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LittlejohnBrew said:
So far it appears to be working fine. Im using it in a keg that is being used both for fermentation and serving. It has included 3.75 oz of dry hops (mix of pellets and leaf). Right now it is cold crashing, and I have pulled off a pint with no trouble. So the dry hops aren't clogging the filter or getting through.

The beer is more hazy than expected though, but hopefully that improves over the next week or so. If it doesn't I may transfer to another keg including a floating dip tube.
Click to expand...

Well disaster struck last night. Due to the haze and harsh flavor I decided to transfer to another keg with gelatin.

At first transfer went well, but about 3 gals in I was pulling nothing but foam. Opened the keg to find the floating dip tube clogged. Tried cleaning it and transfering again, but it continued to clog. Ultimately I gave up and lost out on about 1.5 gal of beer.

The floating dip tube was sitting in the loose hops the entire time which I think was causing the harsh flavors. Then eventually it sucked up hops onto the screen. In the future i will use either pellets only with the hope that they sink or continue to use of bags for the hops.
 

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Veets said:
Does anyone think that the floating dip tube could be modified to also function as a beer level indicator, like this?
https://www.ballandkeg.com/

I'm thinking some sort of plastic or teflon-coated magnet on the metal float, and trying to find some of those magnetic beads for the outside.
Click to expand...
Interesting idea. Maybe you could buy one of the ballandkeg float kits and strap the silicone tubing to the float with a couple nylon zip ties. Since their float already includes the magnet, you'd only have to add the silicone tubing. I might try that because I'd love to have keg level indication as well as clear beer.
 
lablover said:
Interesting idea. Maybe you could buy one of the ballandkeg float kits and strap the silicone tubing to the float with a couple nylon zip ties. Since their float already includes the magnet, you'd only have to add the silicone tubing. I might try that because I'd love to have keg level indication as well as clear beer.
Click to expand...

Might work if it's done right. The way I understand it, that internal ball needs to be able to rotate 360degrees, until the magnet is lined up. If you were thinking to make a cage of sorts with those zip ties, loose enough to let the ball swivel but closed in enough to capture the ball and keep the silicone pickup tube attached and below the ball, that might do the trick.

If you try it, please report back on your findings!
 
LittlejohnBrew said:
Well disaster struck last night. Due to the haze and harsh flavor I decided to transfer to another keg with gelatin.

At first transfer went well, but about 3 gals in I was pulling nothing but foam. Opened the keg to find the floating dip tube clogged. Tried cleaning it and transfering again, but it continued to clog. Ultimately I gave up and lost out on about 1.5 gal of beer.

The floating dip tube was sitting in the loose hops the entire time which I think was causing the harsh flavors. Then eventually it sucked up hops onto the screen. In the future i will use either pellets only with the hope that they sink or continue to use of bags for the hops.
Click to expand...

How long did you wait after dry hopping before pouring your first beer?

Also, I assume that the gelatin was in the other keg, right? Or did you put gelatin in your dry hopped keg?
 
I've found that when using the small stainless steel screens over the end of a regular dip tube that you need to transfer very slow to prevent clogging like this when dry hops are in the keg. I can only have a 1-2 psi difference between the sending and receiving kegs. Any faster and it clogs rather quickly. I have found that blowing CO2 into the liquid out can clear the clog.
 
Veets said:
How long did you wait after dry hopping before pouring your first beer?

Also, I assume that the gelatin was in the other keg, right? Or did you put gelatin in your dry hopped keg?
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Besides pulling samples during fermentation to get gravity reading I waited about a week at 45F before pouring pints. When I opened up the keg after the clogging I found all the leaf hops still floating (which from my experience they don't sink). The hops had to be covering the first few inches deep into the beer so the filter was always surrounded by hops.

As crane points out I may have had too high of flow. I'll have to try the backflow with CO2 next time if it clogs.

Gelatin is in the keg that I have transferred to not the keg with the dry hops.
 
LittlejohnBrew said:
Besides pulling samples during fermentation to get gravity reading I waited about a week at 45F before pouring pints. When I opened up the keg after the clogging I found all the leaf hops still floating (which from my experience they don't sink). The hops had to be covering the first few inches deep into the beer so the filter was always surrounded by hops.

As crane points out I may have had too high of flow. I'll have to try the backflow with CO2 next time if it clogs.

Gelatin is in the keg that I have transferred to not the keg with the dry hops.
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Ive got a galaxy dry hopped (10oz in 5 gallons) cold crashing for over a week now and its tasting super harsh bitter like drinking straight hops.
Im using the same system as described here.
I'm wondering if hops clogging my filter is the issue.
Have you had any more testing with the system?
 
beervoid said:
Ive got a galaxy dry hopped (10oz in 5 gallons) cold crashing for over a week now and its tasting super harsh bitter like drinking straight hops.
Im using the same system as described here.
I'm wondering if hops clogging my filter is the issue.
Have you had any more testing with the system?
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Yeah I've got a Trillium Fort Point clone on tap right now that has 2.5 oz mosiac pellets and 2.5 oz citra pellets dry hopped in 5 gallons. Ive had it on tap now about 2 weeks and imI probably about half way through the keg. I haven't noticed the harsh hop flavor I had on my last batch and I haven't had any clogging issues.

I suspect the leaf hops was the culprit of my issues before. This time I did all pellets and threw them in loose. Are you using leaf or pellets?
 
LittlejohnBrew said:
Yeah I've got a Trillium Fort Point clone on tap right now that has 2.5 oz mosiac pellets and 2.5 oz citra pellets dry hopped in 5 gallons. Ive had it on tap now about 2 weeks and imI probably about half way through the keg. I haven't noticed the harsh hop flavor I had on my last batch and I haven't had any clogging issues.

I suspect the leaf hops was the culprit of my issues before. This time I did all pellets and threw them in loose. Are you using leaf or pellets?
Click to expand...
Only pellets.

When I was using a bag, I could throw 8oz of hops in there and it would be drinkable within 2 days after fermentation was complete. Only a very light sharpness that quickly faded in less then 2 days.
I have the feeling somehow throwing them loose in there in bigger amounts it takes long to clear up.

Did you dry hop during active fermentation?
How long post fermentation did it become drinkable?
 
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beervoid said:
Only pellets.

When I was using a bag, I could throw 8oz of hops in there and it would be drinkable within 2 days after fermentation was complete. Only a very light sharpness that quickly faded in less then 2 days.
I have the feeling somehow throwing them loose in there in bigger amounts it takes long to clear up.

Did you dry hop during active fermentation?
How long post fermentation did it become drinkable?
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I dry hopped at 60 hours, reached FG after 206 hours. Then I either cold crashed then or 24 hours later (didn't take good notes). Overall I pitched yeast on August 6th and was drinking on August 17th.

At that point it tasted great, but it definitely had noticable trub that settled to the bottom of the cup if left for an extended period of time. It has cleared up some over the past couple weeks and I'm still pulling small amounts of trub. I'm guessing there is some trub on the filter since at this point everything should have dropped out.

Attached is a picture of what it looked like on August 17th.
 

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LittlejohnBrew said:
I dry hopped at 60 hours, reached FG after 206 hours. Then I either cold crashed then or 24 hours later (didn't take good notes). Overall I pitched yeast on August 6th and was drinking on August 17th.

At that point it tasted great, but it definitely had noticable trub that settled to the bottom of the cup if left for an extended period of time. It has cleared up some over the past couple weeks and I'm still pulling small amounts of trub. I'm guessing there is some trub on the filter since at this point everything should have dropped out.

Attached is a picture of what it looked like on August 17th.
Click to expand...

Ive shaken the keg a few times and blew co2 through the out cause I was wondering as well if some hop matter maybe settled on the filter.

I will be giving this another week and in the meantime have another batch fermenting with 10oz citra split by cryo and pellets to see if I get this problem again.
 
2nd batch went fine. I leave all my hops in the serving keg. Did notice some grassy flavour that didnt go away. Maybe 10oz is too much
 
beervoid said:
2nd batch went fine. I leave all my hops in the serving keg. Did notice some grassy flavour that didnt go away. Maybe 10oz is too much
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I've had grassy flavors before that faded over time though I've never done 10 oz dry hop before. Maybe time to let the hops settle will help. I just finished my fort point that I pictured in my last post. After 5 weeks it really cleared up with the floating dip tube. I've yet to open the keg to clean it but I believe i pretty much got every drop of beer out too.

So far after a few batches I've been pleased with the diy floating dip tube.
 

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LittlejohnBrew said:
I've had grassy flavors before that faded over time though I've never done 10 oz dry hop before. Maybe time to let the hops settle will help. I just finished my fort point that I pictured in my last post. After 5 weeks it really cleared up with the floating dip tube. I've yet to open the keg to clean it but I believe i pretty much got every drop of beer out too.

So far after a few batches I've been pleased with the diy floating dip tube.
Click to expand...

I'm pretty happy as wel so far. That beer looks very clear? How much % oat/wheat did you use?
And are you transferring the beers of the dry hop?

I let the grassy one go for about 3 weeks and it didn't clear up and I found the grassy flavor to stay similar throughout the whole time the keg lasted... might have came more forward towards the end since hop flavor was fading?

I'm wondering now if transferring off the hops and yeast when dry hopping large quantities would make any difference as large amounts of hops perhaps do impart grassy flavors when left longer in the keg.
 
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The fort point actually doesn't have oats and I guess it's technically a pale ale. I've never had the real thing which based on pictures is pretty hazy and is supposed to be pretty juicy. The clones I have made have been both hazy and juicy even without the oats. However the latest batch using the floating dip tube it cleared up.

I've left the hops in the serving keg for weeks and haven't gotten grassy flavors after sitting for some time so not sure what's going on with your batch. The past couple IPAs/NEIPAs I've made I've left the dry hops in since I used the same keg for fermentation and serving.

My current batch is fermenting and I'll be dry hopping with 8oz with half of that being leaf. I'm gonna bag the hops this time since I had issue with my last leaf dry hop clogging the floating dip tube filter. I may end up transferring into a second keg with this batch.
 
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LittlejohnBrew said:
The fort point actually doesn't have oats and I guess it's technically a pale ale. I've never had the real thing which based on pictures is pretty hazy and is supposed to be pretty juicy. The clones I have made have been both hazy and juicy even without the oats. However the latest batch using the floating dip tube it cleared up.

I've left the hops in the serving keg for weeks and haven't gotten grassy flavors after sitting for some time so not sure what's going on with your batch. The past couple IPAs/NEIPAs I've made I've left the dry hops in since I used the same keg for fermentation and serving.
Click to expand...

That's why I was curious how much dry hops were in that beer? I suspect that these grassy flavors only get extracted when hitting a certain threshold on green matter (as mine had 10oz of hops)
 
I see two links for tubing to replace the existing tubing. One is 3mm ID and one is 7mm ID to fit over the dip tube. Which is correct?
 
oddcopter said:
Thanks!
Click to expand...
I've also noticed that the tube that is used to cover the filter in order to make it stick in the hole of the stainless steel float is too small. There was no way for me to cram it on there. I would order a mm or 2 larger.
 
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