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DIY Grainfather/BIAC style build

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Going to test brew on the new system this weekend. Bavarian Hefe with WLP300
 
Brew day with the new features! Sparge system worked out really well. A Bavarian Wheat using WLP300, first time using White Labs. Had a hard time getting Wyeast 3068 where I wanted it (big esters, big banana flavor) so giving this one a try, supposedly very similar yeasts.



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what a great system.
can you tell us what the inner basket holding your bag is??
 
Thanks! This build is inspiring. I'm surprised that the homebrew market hasn't adopted tri clamps as the standard. I'm fed up with threads and 3 piece ball valves. I'm on a conquest to change all of my threaded to tri clamp, for ease of cleaning. It's not just bling for me.
 
Thanks! This build is inspiring. I'm surprised that the homebrew market hasn't adopted tri clamps as the standard. I'm fed up with threads and 3 piece ball valves. I'm on a conquest to change all of my threaded to tri clamp, for ease of cleaning. It's not just bling for me.

I am too. Threaded fittings stick around likely because they can be fit to kettles without welding. I'd love to see one of the pump manufacturers put out a TC pump head though.
 
I am too. Threaded fittings stick around likely because they can be fit to kettles without welding. I'd love to see one of the pump manufacturers put out a TC pump head though.

There was one place that I remember seeing a March 5 series with TC connections on it, but it looks like your welding skills are good enough to do what I had done and just tack a few on yourself.

 
Another test brew on the system. Finally figured out a method for verifying volume so did a test brew trying to make sure I could hit all my numbers. Gravity was still a bit wonky. Seem to be getting 63% without sparging. Is that normal to you other BIABers?

Also, a question for refractometer users, what're your methods for taking readings? I seem to get ones that are all over the board. ie it climbs and falls during the mash...? I'm recirculating so I can count out a non homogeneous mash. It's only two or three drops so it cools in seconds. And I've calibrated it with distilled water.

Any other ideas?

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A bit of descrpency in internal grain and mash temps.

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Hello!

Got a bunch more fabrication done last night in hope I can brew over the holiday weekend.

Progress: I (finally) got the wheels on which should make the whole brewing process loads easier. Welded another TC port on the kettle for the whirlpool/stirring inlet.

This time of year with the ground water 64º I can knock out to ~66º in one pass through the CFC so I typically do that straight into fermentor and that knocks a good 25 minutes off my brewday. But when I brew a beer where I want to leave sediment behind I'll put it to use. But during the brew it serves the dual purpose of stirring the wort as I heat to boil. That way as soon as mash is over, I can swing the sparge arm over to the whirlpool inlet, turn the pump on, begin stirring the wort to not scorch it, turn the coils on, yank the basket, rest it atop the kettle and begin sparging. This was I can go from mash end to boil in 22 minutes (last batch with 10.5 gallons).

One of my big goals for this build was to shorten the brew day. This past sunday, from filling the kettle to pitching the yeast it was 4 hours and 25 minutes for a 10g batch (60min mash, 60 min boil). I'm hoping with the new features and ones to come I can get it around 3:30 for 12g.

Plate for the feet

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Got to love the Edwards Iron Worker. Punching through 0.25" 304 is a walk in for park for that machine.

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Whirlpool/stir arm

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Port fit up. I've tried about five different methods for putting ports on kettles. If you're going to weld one on. I think the best way is to buy a hole saw the same size as the ID of your TC fitting. Drill the kettle, the TC port won't fit right away, take a file and ream it until you can forcibly jam the port into the hole which will ensure good fit up. Then weld away. If you can fit your head on the inside, weld both. If not, the outside wild do with a back purge. Perhaps solder the inside afterwards.

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Here are the different configurations for brewing-

Mash

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Sparge/ heat to boil

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And cooling/ draining after cleaning.

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Yet To Do -

As I've become a bit obsessive about shortening the brewday the whole bag part of the BIAB thing is a bit of a pain. Been thinking of fabricating a bag-less grain basket. It would also allow for the grains to sit fully in the water as about 3" is exposed with the current basket. Also an increased grain capacity would be well used. We'll see, that mush SS is expensive ...
 
Spent a few hours polishing. Forgot how much a love polishing stainless :cross:

Once it's completely finished I'll probably spend a day getting it mirror (or trying at least.)

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Hello!

Small update. I'll be adding a 4.25" lip to the top of the kettle. A few reasons I've wanted to do this. Mainly having a recirculating mash strainer sitting right at the top of the kettle is a spill over waiting to happen. I've had to very gingerly stir the mash with 20+Lbs of grain as it sits right at the brim. This way if it does over flow it'll flow back into the kettle. The cross bars will hold the strainer basket when mashing and also at the top of the kettle while sparging, much like the Grainfather system.

Volume will also increase to 17.5 gallons which will be well used.

The lip will also allow me to use the lid from the Bayou kettle directly on this system.



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This is a thing of beauty. Quality professional build that puts mine to shame haha! I was wondering what the dimensions of the 44qt strainer basket are. I've been searching for one that will work in my 15.5gal recirc. Ebiab keggle. Keep up the awesome work!
 
This is a thing of beauty. Quality professional build that puts mine to shame haha! I was wondering what the dimensions of the 44qt strainer basket are. I've been searching for one that will work in my 15.5gal recirc. Ebiab keggle. Keep up the awesome work!

Thanks!

I'll measure it when I've got a moment. It sits about 2.5" off the kettle floor and along the inner bead of the Bayou kettle. If you're doing that large of brews I'd go for a larger basket, this one tops out ~25Lbs.
 
Hello!

Fabricated the lip last night. I increased the diameter a bit in order to use the bayou kettle as the grain basket and do higher gravity beers if wanted.

I started with some scrap 16g 304 I had. It was a bit shy on length so welded two bits together and smoothed out the welds. Popped it in the slip roll, welded it together and then into the bead roller for a flared lip. I'll get to welding it on next weekend. It'll be a lot of work (inside/outside welds) and then grinding and polishing.

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Gets better and better. Do you have an estimated cost so far?

Roughly, a lot more than I'd intended I imagine haha.

BOM
Keg - $40
Pump - $150
TC Fittings - $275
SS Square Bar - $80
Wheels- $20
Bayou Strainer - $40
Control Panel - $60
CFC - $100
Man Hours - ...100+ probably.

So ~$750 I'd say. I just need to have ideas stop popping into my head so I can finish the damn thing!
 
I'll buy this prototype so you can make a real one!
;-)

No, seriously. Me Gusta.
I'm about to pull the trigger on a Grainfather, I'll totally buy one of these!!
 
Love your build! Wish I had your metal working skills and equipment! I am doing a similar build and am trying to decide if I want two 120v elements or one 240v. Are you using two separate circuit 20 amp outlets or just regular 15 amp ones? I like the new 120v elements that come bent and with a Triclamp and L6-30 connector attached at Brewhardware, I am just worried that 2 1650 watt in 15 amp plugs might not be enough for the boil if I do 10 gallon batches. If you are using 15 amp plugs I think it will be ok. The extra up front cost will be worth the extra versatility if so...
 
Just freaking awesome craftmanship, really nice work!! :mug: I have a GF and I want one of these now.
 
C'mon, man! Show us some closeups of the new lip/collar! I'm guessing you just sealed the top and filled the whole keg with argon?

I've been wanting to do something like this and have just had too many other projects. Need to get back under the hood and brush up on my skills!
 
No need for concern. I use two 1500 watt elements and have easily boiled over 13 gallons, and didn't even use full power of both elements. I think I had one set at 70%.

How are you controlling the two elements? With one PID or two? Does it matter where you plug them in ie: 20amp outlet vs. 15amp, outlets on seperate breakers etc.?
 
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