DIY false bottom? Will this work???

[hs0656]

I want to put a false bottom in my keggle. I have the 2 piece ball valve and adapter installed. I plan on using this as a brew kettle for whole hops. I'm just trying to fish for each of your expert opinions here.

So here's what I picked up. While browsing through my local goodwill, I found this little token, and it stuck out immediately. I payed $.75 for it. The perforations are a little bigger in some areas, but I have never brewed with whole hops. All I have ever used is pellets. So what do you guys think? It even has a hole right in the center of it that I could stick the pick-up tube in.

All opinions are greatly appreciated!!!

 

[toolboxdiver]

why don't you wrap it in Stainless steel Screen and it should be fine

 

[hs0656]

why don't you wrap it in Stainless steel Screen and it should be fine

I agree that would be a great idea. I'm not sure how I would secure the screen to it but Im sure I could devise something. If I put screen over it, do you think it might work for pellets also?

 

[Retrofit]

That plate is genuinely pretty, and you're brilliant for seeing it and thinking "beer", but my question is, what's wrong with using a bag?

I bag all my whole hops, I pull the bag out. Issue solved.

 

[hs0656]

Wouldnt say that I have any issue with bagging hops, but for 75 cents, LOL, well you get the picture...

 

[LakewoodBrew]

I agree that would be a great idea. I'm not sure how I would secure the screen to it but Im sure I could devise something. If I put screen over it, do you think it might work for pellets also?

i wouldn't try to screen out pelletized hops. They clog up just about anything pretty quick.

I'm assuming you don't have access to a tack-welder, mig, tig or even a stick or torch? heck you could braze the screen on with a MAPP gas torch. otherwise just cut a few 3-5 long tabs when cutting the sreen to fit. wrap the tabs around the edge and fold it under the rim of the plate.

 

[hs0656]

No I don't have access to any of those items unfortunately. I will probably try the tabs though. I assume I can buy SS wire mesh at any local Big Box/lowes?

 

[LakewoodBrew]

might try the depot, but i would hit up mcmaster carr.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#wire-screens/=cd93h1

 

[Dwain]

I would go with Mcmaster, and get some of the stainless crimp rings and just crimp the screen on. You could also do it with stainless wire. - Dwain

 

[hs0656]

Thanks to both of you for the advice! I will look today for the wire mesh screen. And I found a cheesy way of securing the screen. I have stainless steel clam clips in my desk at work and it dawn on me that they may just work perfectly. I will update the thread soon as I find the screen.

 

[JetSmooth]

Why not place the screen on the disc, then push a few screws through the holes on the perimeter and screen, then secure with a washer and nut?

 

[hs0656]

D*** it Jet!! Thats probably the easiest and cheapest idea yet. And I love it. I am definitely gonna try that. However, any suggestion for the center hole?? Im gonna bore it out a little bigger to support my keggles pick-up tube. So the wire mesh would obviously get in the way of that...

Also, id assume SS nuts bolts and washers right?

 

[JetSmooth]

Definitely SS hardware.

I would use the first ring of holes around the center hole (maybe every other one) and put scres through them to keep the screen tight. Just cut an X or so in the screen to slip the dip tube through.

That's just a thought. I haven't finished my DIY FB yet.

I bought a perforated stainless steel splatte guard for $20 and cut it a bit smaller to serve as a false bottom in my 10 gallon cooler. Cut out the middle and am just trying to figure out how to secure the drip tube for mine. Mine will be for a mash tun and not kettle, though.

 

[badmajon]

The problem is you might have channeling issues since the holes aren't even and then when your efficiency sucks, you'll be asking whats wrong.

A normal FB is about $35. Just buy it, really, I use one and they are great. Some things DIY is great for (like the temp controller) but sometimes its just making work to save a few pennies.

 

[hs0656]

What are you referring to as the "drip tube"? Maybe we can help you out with ideas also. You have any photos?

I should get my valve in the mail today. I ordered everything from Bargainfittings in stainless. I am going to make my own copper pick up tube from parts I bought at Lowes. Just have to figure out a way to make the pick up tube spin in the center so it will thread in and out easily when I have the false bottom installed...

 

[hs0656]

The problem is you might have channeling issues since the holes aren't even and then when your efficiency sucks, you'll be asking whats wrong.

I guess I could see how efficiency would be an issue if I was using it in a mashtun. But Im gonna use this in a brew keggle. I wouldnt think Id have any issues if Im whole hopping in it while using a pick up tube. Am I missing something here??

 

[JetSmooth]

badmajon, I think OP is using this for a kettle. Mine is for a mash tun, but the holes on my mateiral are much more even and regularly spaced.

hs0656, Dip tube, pick-up tube. Same thing. I hadn't thought about putting a thread on the center hole. That might make for a good seal. I've been thinking about a copper pick-up tube as well. I made one for my kettle that's super simple and draws from the center. I don't filter at my kettle valve. I use a paint-strainer bag for my hops and don't concern myself too much with the little bit that gets through.

No pics yet. I rarely take pics while I'm working on something. Usualy only after, when I remember. haha.

 

[hs0656]

badmajon, I think OP is using this for a kettle. Mine is for a mash tun, but the holes on my mateiral are much more even and regularly spaced.

. Im definitely using it for a kettle, not a tun.

hs0656, Dip tube, pick-up tube. Same thing. I hadn't thought about putting a thread on the center hole. That might make for a good seal. I've been thinking about a copper pick-up tube as well. I made one for my kettle that's super simple and draws from the center. I don't filter at my kettle valve. I use a paint-strainer bag for my hops and don't concern myself too much with the little bit that gets through.

No pics yet. I rarely take pics while I'm working on something. Usualy only after, when I remember. haha.

Ah gotcha. I was able to find all the necessary copper parts at Lowes. However, just need to figure out how to thread the pick up tube on and off without rotating the entire tube. If the whole tube spins, it'll interfere with the FB. I need to have it sleeved somehow in the center of the tube. Maybe Ill need to make another trip to Lowes.

 

[JetSmooth]

I think a lot of commercial fale bottoms just fit the tube down in the center with as small a tolerance as possible. Others have an elbow fitting with a hose barb screwed (or soldered or whatever) onto the FB itself. Then you have a hose barb on the insid eof your kettle and use some hihg-temp silicone hoses to join the two.

For me, I'm thinking of a compression fitting (http://www.mcmaster.com/#5272k199) the back of the valve and using a copper tube to go to an elbow stuck into the false bottom.

 

[hs0656]

For me, I'm thinking of a compression fitting (http://www.mcmaster.com/#5272k199) the back of the valve and using a copper tube to go to an elbow stuck into the false bottom.

Does the copper pipe get soldered directly to the compression fitting? And when you loosen the nut on the compression fitting to remove the pick up tube, will that prevent the entire tube from rotating 360? Its hard for me to tell just be looking at it. Seems like a really good idea

 

[JetSmooth]

The point to a compression fitting is to be able to insert the copper tube into the fitting and tighten the nut down creating a seal. But you can loosen it and pull the tube right out.

My fitting arrived today. If I have a chance to finish my FB this weekend, I'll post some pics.

 

[hs0656]

That would be great. So let me make sure Im understanding you correctly. The compression fitting threads into the backside of the ball valve adapter, and the 1/2 inch copper tube slides into the other side of the compression fitting, and then you tighten down the nut? No soldering is needed for that end? That sounds like the simplest way to install a tube yet. Atleast as far as "easy removal" is concerned.

Any ideas where a person could purchase one locally? Perhaps an auto store, napa or advanced, or maybe lowes or hd? Just trying to get one quicker! My impatience has proven to be somewhat of a personal annoyance over the years, LOL!

 

[hs0656]

Ok, so I watched a few videos on compression fittings and youre a genius. This is absolutley perfect for what im wanting. I imagine that Ill be able to find one of these at Lowes or any other plumbing store in town. And really, thanks for the great idea. Exactly the device I was looking for!

 

[JetSmooth]

If you can find a big enough one, that's good. But you should remember to keep the diameter as big as you can. I don't know that I've seen 1/2inch compression with 1/2in NPT threads locally. You may ge lucky though.

 

[hs0656]

If you can find a big enough one, that's good. But you should remember to keep the diameter as big as you can. I don't know that I've seen 1/2inch compression with 1/2in NPT threads locally. You may ge lucky though.

Ya thanks for the advice. I definitely wont go with anything lower than 1/2 inch on both sides. Did you get a brass compression fitting or

 

[JetSmooth]

Yeah. It's brass.

 

[hs0656]

Do you think the brass will interfere with stainless and copper? My ball valve and associated fittings are stainless, and Im using a copper pick-up tube. I found a 1/2 stainless compression fitting on Amazon but its almost $20! I would prefer to have stainless but ouch, thats pricey! Still plan on looking around town for fittings at plumbing suppliers though...

Is your ball valve brass?

 

[bluecarpetsample]

If you mean by way of galvanic corrosion, then not really. Just make sure everything dries after brew day. Here is a galvanic activity chart for reference. Basically, you don't want something like aluminum to come into contact with stainless or copper for extended periods of time in a wet environment.

http://www.ssina.com/corrosion/galvanic.html

or

http://www.engineersedge.com/galvanic_capatability.htm

 

[JetSmooth]

The brass compression fitting is MADE for copper tubing and to be used in conjunction with water. So I would assume it to be safe. Again, that's an assumption.

Whether the heat and extra chemicals present in wort would do anything, I dunno. I mean, we use copper in wort and we use brass in wort.

Your guess is as good as mine.

 

[JetSmooth]

Well, I've hit an impasse. I screwed some copper fittings into the pick-up hole and now I can't get them off. I bent the stainless steel a little and can't get them off.

I'm going to call this a loss and probably pick up the stuff for a copper manifold for now. *sighs*

BTW, the 1/2" compression fitting I got from McMaster-Carr wouldn't work with the rigid copper 1/2" I already had. I should have known it was for soft copper pipe. SO now I have this fitting I may not be able to use.