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Difficulty maintaining a boil?

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rootster

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I recently purchased the120v Blichmann ToP and boilcoil for my 10 gal kettle. Today I ran my first test with the setup. I was disappointed when I stalled at 211 and as soon as I removed the lid from the kettle the temp would drop sharply. This is my first venture into electric brewing, so is this what I should expect? Or do I need to return the equipment and try the 240v version? Anyone else experiencing this concern? Thanks in advance!
 
Im not familiar with the Blichmann specs, but a single 2kw 120v source can generally bring about 5 gals worth to a boil from what I read on this sub. Get another one or go 240v.
 
I recently purchased the120v Blichmann ToP and boilcoil for my 10 gal kettle. Today I ran my first test with the setup. I was disappointed when I stalled at 211 and as soon as I removed the lid from the kettle the temp would drop sharply. This is my first venture into electric brewing, so is this what I should expect? Or do I need to return the equipment and try the 240v version? Anyone else experiencing this concern? Thanks in advance!

Try insulating the kettle before you give up. A lot of the available heat input is lost out the sides of the kettle. Time to boil might still be too long even with insulation though. You can get 4X the power at the same current with 240V vs. 120V.

Edit: Finding a suitable insulation might be tough though. A lot of people use Reflectix for mash tun insulation, but it is only rated for use up to 180°F.

Brew on :mug:
 
I recently purchased the120v Blichmann ToP and boilcoil for my 10 gal kettle. Today I ran my first test with the setup. I was disappointed when I stalled at 211 and as soon as I removed the lid from the kettle the temp would drop sharply. This is my first venture into electric brewing, so is this what I should expect? Or do I need to return the equipment and try the 240v version? Anyone else experiencing this concern? Thanks in advance!

Have you certified that your temp probe I'd accurate and that you're not boiling at 211?

My water boils at 204 fwiw. Depending on altitude water had different boiling points.
 
For the price, I would buy the hotrod from Bobby, and get an element of your choosing.

I get a good boil with two 1350w elements in a13.74" diameter kettle.
 
For the price, I would buy the hotrod from Bobby, and get an element of your choosing.

I get a good boil with two 1350w elements in a13.74" diameter kettle.

I agree, two 5500w elements wired for 120v will put out about 2700w of very very ultra low (11wpsi) density heatoff two dedicated 15a lines... This would cost you $65 for 2 of the the all stainless versions... less than half of one 120v boilcoil... I still dont see why people buy these things... especially for 120v setups... was their a reason besides the whole "Its blichmann" thing?..

or you could buy one ULWD all stainless 2000w element from bobby for $29.... and still get the same boil as the $130 boilcoil.... The wort doesnt know the difference in cost..
 
I agree, two 5500w elements wired for 120v will put out about 2700w of very very ultra low (11wpsi) density heatoff two dedicated 15a lines... This would cost you $65 for 2 of the the all stainless versions... less than half of one 120v boilcoil... I still dont see why people buy these things... especially for 120v setups... was their a reason besides the whole "Its blichmann" thing?..

or you could buy one ULWD all stainless 2000w element from bobby for $29.... and still get the same boil as the $130 boilcoil.... The wort doesnt know the difference in cost..

Agreed on all account. I'd love to have a fully stainless element installed on my kettle, and will probably get one eventually but atm I just can't justify the expense and trouble of drilling the kettle and installing one.
 
Agreed on all account. I'd love to have a fully stainless element installed on my kettle, and will probably get one eventually but atm I just can't justify the expense and trouble of drilling the kettle and installing one.
Fair enough but just heads up, I have drilled out and installed 4 so far with an 18 dollar habor frieght step bit and $6 for the oring and nut from bargain fittings... So you can do it for $24 and the bit can be used for additional drilling...
 
Fair enough but just heads up, I have drilled out and installed 4 so far with an 18 dollar habor frieght step bit and $6 for the oring and nut from bargain fittings... So you can do it for $24 and the bit can be used for additional drilling...

Good to know.
So $18 for step bit.
$6 per oring/nut.
$30~ for element.
Then what else would I need to get, just the power cord for the element?
 
Since you have the Hot Rod you've already got the element and power cord. But you'll need something like this to cover all the connections.

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/hotpod-ewl3.htm

This should come with everything you need except the element and cord.
Ahh I forgot..Thats a nice option for sure but if you are trying to make every penny count,

.I use a 50cent 1" pvc coupling filled with epoxy to make a waterproof endcap over the element wiring connections... the only drawback is that cord is attached to the element for life and the only way to remove it is to cut it.

here are pics of my old HLT element I replaced with a brass based one for rust prevention.

IMG_20150626_093842_153.jpg


IMG_20150626_093848_279.jpg
 
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