I have only made beer from kits out of my local brew shop. I was looking on there website today,and some of the coopers kits recommended using liquid malt extract along with dry malt. I was hoping someone could tell me why you would need to add both types? I have added extra liquid malt extract and had very good results,but never dry malt.
Different types of malt
- Thread starter Gus73
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I like using plain DME in the boil for hop additions, saving the pre-hopped Cooper's can of LME for flame out. This keeps the LME from darkening & turning any flavor & aroma hop additions in the pre-hopped Cooper's cans into bittering. DME doesn't darken as readily as LME does.
There are advantages and disadvantages to both LME(liquid) and DME(dry).
Dry- you can fine tune the amount you use. Does your recipe ask for 1.3 lb.? You can do it. DME also keeps longer than LME. And it's easier to use it when you get into making starters.
Liquid- Greater variety. Do you want to try Munich LME or Maris Otter LME? They have it. Handy cans/jugs. However you are stuck with using the whole can. Once opened it doesn't keep well.
I do mostly All grain recipes now but I like to keep a couple pounds of DME on hand to use if needed if my SG is low. And if I see an extract recipe I like(LOVE the NB Caribou Slobber) I don't have any problems with using the LME that comes with the kit.
Dry- you can fine tune the amount you use. Does your recipe ask for 1.3 lb.? You can do it. DME also keeps longer than LME. And it's easier to use it when you get into making starters.
Liquid- Greater variety. Do you want to try Munich LME or Maris Otter LME? They have it. Handy cans/jugs. However you are stuck with using the whole can. Once opened it doesn't keep well.
I do mostly All grain recipes now but I like to keep a couple pounds of DME on hand to use if needed if my SG is low. And if I see an extract recipe I like(LOVE the NB Caribou Slobber) I don't have any problems with using the LME that comes with the kit.
The_Professor
Well-Known Member
Do you mean they recommend a DME addition to the Cooper's HME? Your LME addition is fine. Sometime kits use LME and DME based on the volume they are available in to get the desired OG.
BlueHouseBrewhaus
Well-Known Member
As stated already, LME doesn't keep well so if a recipe calls for 5 lbs of extract, you can use 3.3 lbs LME (a typical size) and make up the difference with DME. LME gives you the variety and DME lets you measure out whatever amount you need right to the ounce. Just keep in mind that a lb of LME is not equal to a lb of DME. Be sure to convert.
Some of the coopers kit are hopped, so you get the extract with the hops and then need additional extract. DME is easier to make up the required amount, since it comes in single pound amounts.
There is no reason why you can't use LME in place of recommended amounts of DME.
I don't buy the fact that if you open a container of LME, you need to use it all at once. I buy LME in 33 lb containers ....... I certainly don't use it all in one go. I partial mash, and a 33 lb container may last 6 months. You can measure LME accurately out of a container, and store the rest with no problems.
There is no reason why you can't use LME in place of recommended amounts of DME.
I don't buy the fact that if you open a container of LME, you need to use it all at once. I buy LME in 33 lb containers ....... I certainly don't use it all in one go. I partial mash, and a 33 lb container may last 6 months. You can measure LME accurately out of a container, and store the rest with no problems.
Here's a handy conversion chart for grain-DME-LME...http://www.jaysbrewing.com/2011/11/17/lazy-chart-for-converting-dme-lme-grain/
I generally added 3lbs of plain light DME (Munton's is my fav) & 1 or 2 ounces of hops. An ounce equals about 28g. I use half a 3lb bag of the plain DME in a 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 gallon boil for the hop additions, usually flavor additions at from 20 minutes left in the boil down to about 8:30. Then add the remaining DME & the Cooper's can at flame out. The wort still being boiling hot & pasteurization happening in seconds at 160F, Bob's your uncle.
Here's a wiki article explaining pasteurization; http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pasteurization Do some flavor hop additions from 20 down to 10 minutes left in the boil using the pre-hopped Cooper's cans at flame out with remaining DME. If when all is said & done, you think it needs more bittering, then add a small bittering addition @ 60 minutes next time. Like 3/10's oz. See my recipes at the little triangle under my avatar for details...
Or (by weight):
1 Grain = .75 LME
1 Grain = .6 DME
1 LME = .8 DME
1 LME = 1.33 Grain
1 DME = 1.67 Grain
1 DME = 1.25 LME
The only 2 to remember are:
1 Grain = .75 LME
1 LME = .8 DME
All the others can be derived from that.
I have also come across 500g of flaked barely or roasted barely and whole chocolate malt if you where going to add them as whole grains would you simply add them to the boil? weight for weight they seem to be cheaper than dme or lme
Why don't you list what you have or plan to get, and what you would like the beer to turn out like.
Be specific in what extract you are going to be using, or can get:
- Type (Light/Pale/Dark/etc)
- Manufacturer
- Is it pre-hopped or not.
- Any other information you can think of.
What hops do you have available?
What yeast do you plan to use?
Then these helpful folks on the forum can provide some suggestions on what you could add to the recipe, and how you could brew it (when to add what additions).
Be specific in what extract you are going to be using, or can get:
- Type (Light/Pale/Dark/etc)
- Manufacturer
- Is it pre-hopped or not.
- Any other information you can think of.
What hops do you have available?
What yeast do you plan to use?
Then these helpful folks on the forum can provide some suggestions on what you could add to the recipe, and how you could brew it (when to add what additions).
Well I'm not sure exactly what I'm going to do for my next brew yet.I've only ever done two in my life. And they where simply pouring cans of coopers and an extra can of lme in. But I'm interested in adding whole malt grains and hops instead of a can of lme as it about £10 a can . Like is it as simple as dumping a kg whole malt grains hops barely etc in my fermenter at the boil then add a can of coppers?
Any flaked or raw grain product (flaked or toasted barley or wheat, raw barley or wheat, etc.) needs to be mashed, so the enzymes can convert the starches to fermentable sugars. Throwing them in the boil will create one cloudy sticky mess that won't clear or give you more beer.
Look up (partial) mashing. In short you use a diastatic malt (grain that was malted and has plenty of enzymes) plus your other grain adjuncts and add them to hot water and let it do its thing at 146-158°F (oven works great for low volume, partial mashes). The enzymes will convert the lot. Then you drain the clear wort off, rinse and repeat.
All malts and adjuncts need to be crushed before you can use them. Whole kernels will do diddly squat.
Roasted Barley is very dark, great for dark beers. Same for Chocolate Malt. They're added in smaller amounts to give the beer color and roasted flavor and aroma.
Yes, malted grain (2-row, pale malt, pilsner, etc.) is cheaper than malt extract, but it takes some effort to convert the malt to fermentable sugars (mashing). Extracts are easier and simpler to use. Just add to boiling water. The extract manufacturer has already done the mashing and boiling for you.
Yeah, I think you should stick with extracts at least long enough to become familiar with the process. Develop a process that works for you while you read up on extracts with steeping grains & partial mashing. Steeping & partial mashing can easily & cheaply be done in the BIAB ( Brew In A Bag) style. Over a year ago, I started partial boil, partial mash biab myself & found it easier than I previously thought. But did extracts & steeping grains the first couple years.
Ok so pretty much any of these ingredients hops barely and malt if I was to just put them in a pestle and mortar and grind them up really fine and put them in boiling water then sieve it as the water now has all the good stuff? that's me good to go? Then I can add that to the boil with my can of coopers
You don't have to do any prep to the hops. Just add them to the boil at 60 minutes for bittering, then 20 down to 8:30 or so for flavor hop additions. But steeping &/or mashing & sparging is a completely separate part of the process. I strongly suggest reading up in the stickies about steeping versus mashing before attempting it.
Look through http://www.howtobrew.com/ - It will help answer your questions, and then some.
There are 5 main ways to brew beer.
- Kit and Kilo
- Extract Only
- Extract with Steeping Malts
- Partial Mash
- All Grain
- Kit and Kilo is not really "brewing" just mixing cans of hopped extract and a few pounds of table sugar in hot water.
- Extract Only uses cans of malt and/or malt powder, but you typically boil the malt extract with hops and don't add simple sugar.
This makes better, tastier beer, since it is 100% malt based.
- Extract with Steeping Malts is like 2. but more complexly flavored and varied since you can color and flavor using some of the large variety (100+) of specialty malts which are steeped.
- Partial Mash is an extension of 3. You will be mashing some grains, and using less extract.
More beer styles can be made that way.
- All Grain is the ultimate in beer versatility, but also requires more equipment, time, and understanding of the process.
No extract is used. All the wort is made from grain and grain adjuncts.
The lowest cost per gallon, and it's really not that hard.
Start reading here:
John Palmer - How to Brew
and go through the different sections. It will become clearer what we're talking about.
^ This^ You definitely need to read up on the various styles of brewing to make a more informed decision. Then ask more questions if needed. We're here to help!
