Commercial extract vs bulk extract

[Luxy]

What is difference between commercial extract from brands like Coopers, Mangrove's Jack, Morgan's etc which specified the types of beers you get from the kit and those malt extract you can get in bulk but does not specify the beer type apart from the color grade? I would assume those extract produced under brands are produced with the term pre-hopped (correct me if its the wrong term) such that they have added the necessary hops for the relevant flavor during the wort stage before being boil down to extract concentration and those unspecified extract are just pure extract as no hops were added during their process of extract production.

Another question I have is, in theory if one can get the same type of malt extracts(mixed at the same ratio if the recipe consists of different types of malt/barley) for a specific beer type as well as the hop extract, one would be able to produce the same result of beer brew from AG and hops(dried/pellets). Considering both process undergo the same hopping and fermentation method.

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

For home brewers, brewing "malt extract" is professionally made wort. The specific brand/product will have a number of additional characteristics that make it desirable.

• concentrated (dry vs liquid) vs "fresh wort" (Australia, ...)
• unhopped vs hopped
• single base malt vs complex gain bill
• packaging for transportation and shelf life

The specific malt extract in a kit will vary based on additional characteristics that make the kit desirable

• simplify the brew day by limiting the number of ingredients: use a hopped wort with a complex grain bill
• provide flexibility in the kit by including additional hops / malts: use an unhopped wort with a single base malt
• ...

in theory if one can get the same type of malt extracts(mixed at the same ratio if the recipe consists of different types of malt/barley) for a specific beer type as well as the hop extract, one would be able to produce the same result of beer brew from AG and hops(dried/pellets).

For many HomeBrewTalk definitions of "same result", the best answer may be "one will not be able to do this".

For purposes of further discussion, this question is more interesting "Will one be able to get "close enough""? And the likely answer is "probably".

When comparing a wort made from "malt extract" to an "all-grain" wort made at home , there are a number of additional considerations. I'll keep the list short by only mentioning a couple:

• the "malt extract" will contain some additional minerals from the businesses source water supply,
• the home brewers source water supply may contain additional minerals,
• the results of "steeping" (vs "mashing") specialty malts may not produce the same result.

---

eta: One can make a delightful (or award winning) American Pale Ale from either "malt extract" ingredients or "all-grain" ingredients. Does the extract version need to be "the same as" the all-grain version?

 

[fluketamer]

simple answer. the companys yuo all listed provide prehopped malt extract. its sold in 3to 4 kg quantities and meant to be mixed with an additional kilo of fermentables. reconstitued with water to 5 gallons and fermemntted. its very simple and results in simple (not bad) beer.

the bulk malt extract by color that you refer to is liquid malt extract . or perhaps dry malt extract if you are buying the dehydrated version.

biess cbw which is liquid malt extract literally stands for concentrated brewers wort. meaning they already mashed and boiled the wort and concetrated it for you. this product requires more effort . you will need to boil it with hops to extract the bitterness flavor and aroma needed to balence out the intense sweetness in wort. (thats a very simplified version)


AG brewing starts with grains and creates wort to be fermented. extract is the wort already concetrated. water needs to be added.
this is a good article
https://www.morebeer.com/category/brewing.html
read john palmer how to brew . pretty sure its free online. if you alread have please forgive my igonrance.

this should give you a basis for further investigation about lme hme dme etc

btw welcome to the forum.

edited to remove excessive snarkiness

 

[Luxy]

Thank you all. Brewed my first batch yesterday. Cooper's pale ale from the extract kit with Kveik Voss Pale Ale yeast. Just discovered(during the purchase of the kit from my local store) that with Kveik yeast I can brew almost if not all beer in tropical whether. Finger crossed ^_^

 

[fluketamer]

oh i just saw you are in asia.

so i have made a ton of coopers. the pale ale is not there best. but with enough time will be drinkable, how did you brew it. what sugars did you add?

in any case, let it go for at least 10 days in the primary. normally i would say 2-3 weeks but kviek will definately speed this up. sounds like this is your first brew and theres no way you will have patience but definatley leave it in primary for 10 days. the yeast will clean up anything you dont want in there.

the most important thing that improved my beer was temperature managment of my fermenter. whether you are brewing with lager yeast at 45 degrees or your kviek at 95 which i think is optimal for kviek , the less temp swings the better.

type in temperature control in the search bar above. you will likely need something to stop the temp from dropping at nightin the case of kviek. which you really want to be in the 95 to 105 deg range.

temp control will make the yeast happy. and happy yeast are less likely to turn your malt into alcohol and not into diphenylester whatchamacallit
which you may taste and which wont taste like beer or whats in beer. usually. it depends what beer you drink. but not what coopers pale is supposed to be.

if you have a hydrometer and can take three consecutive gravity readings thast fine. if not taste it if its sweet let it go a few more days if it tastes like flat beer. package it.

very important no matter what the instructions say, let the beer sit at room temp between 66 to 74 degrees for AT LEAST THREE weeks.

you will likely taste it before then and it will not be great but try to wait. after three weeks, chill it for at least 24 hours. again try to wait , and better yet chill it for a week. wait a little bit longer . you are almost there. now after 5 weeks min from brew day enjoy your beer. it will be nice and carbed up. clean crisp and hopefully have a little hop flavor......... damn now im thirsty for a coopers pale ale kit.

once they are carbed up good. the colder you kepp them ( which is called cold conditioning) and the longer you keep them ( up to a point) the better they will be.

if you keg the beer the schedule is a little (or a lot) different

this is a great hobby this is a great forum with a ton of very knowledgable people.

cheers
oh i almost forget the number one rule in homebrewing START THE NEXT BATCH AS SOON AS YOU CAN, definatelnot longer then about three weeks which as you can see is the minimum time needed to carb your beer in the bottle. which means if you finish this beer before then you will have a period of time where you will have .......(i cant even type this it scares me).

 

[Luxy]

oh i just saw you are in asia.

so i have made a ton of coopers. the pale ale is not there best. but with enough time will be drinkable, how did you brew it. what sugars did you add?

in any case, let it go for at least 10 days in the primary. normally i would say 2-3 weeks but kviek will definately speed this up. sounds like this is your first brew and theres no way you will have patience but definatley leave it in primary for 10 days. the yeast will clean up anything you dont want in there.

the most important thing that improved my beer was temperature managment of my fermenter. whether you are brewing with lager yeast at 45 degrees or your kviek at 95 which i think is optimal for kviek , the less temp swings the better.

type in temperature control in the search bar above. you will likely need something to stop the temp from dropping at nightin the case of kviek. which you really want to be in the 95 to 105 deg range.

temp control will make the yeast happy. and happy yeast are less likely to turn your malt into alcohol and not into diphenylester whatchamacallit
which you may taste and which wont taste like beer or whats in beer. usually. it depends what beer you drink. but not what coopers pale is supposed to be.

if you have a hydrometer and can take three consecutive gravity readings thast fine. if not taste it if its sweet let it go a few more days if it tastes like flat beer. package it.

very important no matter what the instructions say, let the beer sit at room temp between 66 to 74 degrees for AT LEAST THREE weeks.

you will likely taste it before then and it will not be great but try to wait. after three weeks, chill it for at least 24 hours. again try to wait , and better yet chill it for a week. wait a little bit longer . you are almost there. now after 5 weeks min from brew day enjoy your beer. it will be nice and carbed up. clean crisp and hopefully have a little hop flavor......... damn now im thirsty for a coopers pale ale kit.

once they are carbed up good. the colder you kepp them ( which is called cold conditioning) and the longer you keep them ( up to a point) the better they will be.

if you keg the beer the schedule is a little (or a lot) different

this is a great hobby this is a great forum with a ton of very knowledgable people.

cheers
oh i almost forget the number one rule in homebrewing START THE NEXT BATCH AS SOON AS YOU CAN, definatelnot longer then about three weeks which as you can see is the minimum time needed to carb your beer in the bottle. which means if you finish this beer before then you will have a period of time where you will have .......(i cant even type this it scares me).

Greeting fluketamer,

I brew it accordingly to the instructions on the label and watched a couple of videos on Youtube, guess i was kinda trying to build up so call a muscle memory for kit extract brewing (guilty) and of course you can imagine my surprise when I read the part u asked what sugars did i add for the brew cos i add nothing at all @_@. Only thing i was focus on was the sanitization of the fermentation vessel and everything that is coming in contact with the wort. Boiled 2half a gallon of water , warm up the extract can in a small boiling pot, dump in the extra and stir making sure all extract fully dissolved then top up with tap water till the recommended level mark on the fermenter around 6 gallons. The temperature then was 89.6F when i pitched in the yeast( unstarted). Had come campden tablets but didn't add them as according to instruction for removing chlorine they need added to the water and boil for a while.
The temperature steadied at 89.6 before dropping to 86 after 1 day then 82.4 the next. Now I would say its steadied at 80.6. This reading was taken from the ssticker thermometer that comes with the fermenter. One of the reading was shaded in noticeable blue while the one on the higher side in brown. By temp swing you mean the change in temperature between day and night? If so i think the swing is small or even none existence at all at the place i am fermenting the beer.

I did some research on AG beer brewing mashing, boiling, wort chilling, temp control even pressurized ferment a while back and was dumping all the equipment in the shopping cart but ultimately was too intimidated by the complex(to me) to pull it off. After more youtube videos on fruity wines and confirming from the video owner i can brew the same in Asia weather no problem at all, I finally decided to get a simple fermenter with some empty bottles to try those fruity wine, then i stumbled (most likely from the youtube recommendation videos). So i thought to myself maybe tryout extract brew if fail i can go back to the fruit wine thing. And if the fruit wine fail as well I will end up with a 6 gallon dispenser and water bottles rather than a room full with brewer, fermenter, chillers, kegs transfer tubing.

Unfortunately my originals plan was to ferment for 6 days and then bottle them, but now the maximum fermentation i can go is 9 days as i am scheduled to leave for oversea on the 9th night itself. Dun think i can keep them at 66-74 as the lowest ambient temp i get now is around 80 (might be able to go lower to 73~75 not sure when its the hottest hopefully by then I would have already invested in a chiller....)

My aim is to keep the equipment to the minimum, I am also not a picky beer drinker and been mostly drinking cheap commercial beer and find them mostly ok except for one time with a beer that is 13 or more ABV. So for now I am only aiming for normal ABV or lower is also fine just not too high...

As for minimizing the time between brew, I will be getting some 1.3 gallon fermenters for my next brew so the batch is small while i test out various kind of recipe. Will also be getting DMEs since they are easier to preserve compared to LMEs. Might pop a few hops just to try.... i

I think for now my goal is to brew enjoyable beer with the simplest process possible and then maybe venture to some other fancier style of beer =) Just wondering if there is anyone who went from extract to AG/BIAB and then back again fully to extract brewing =) For AG beer taste i can also pop by any of my local brewery and try their beers to check out the difference right? A snipet of what the closest house brew has on their beer menu

 

[fluketamer]

wait wait wait . are you saying you didnt add anythign to the can just water. thats not going to work. if you plug in coopers pale ale with 6 gallons of water and no other sugar in brewersfriend it yeilds. a very watery beer. like not even a light beer but a low beer or small beer

your starting gravity with just the can of HME is only about 1024 if you are lucky. even with the best yeast you will be lucky to hit 2.5 abv but i doubt it.

as the hillbilly brewer on youtube says , beer is 1040 to 1050 .

you need to add sugar. do it now while you have the chance. the yeast will still prolly be able to turn it into alcohol. i reccomend brew enhancer which is a mix of dextrose / maltodextrine and dme. but pure dme will work. (tastes better with hop tea addition) or you can use table sugar as a last resort.

unfortunately 2 lbs of table sugar or any sugar in 6 gallons of beer will still be a little thin cause it will lack the body produced by malt extract. also that much sugar will take along time for the beer to not taste off. like at least 4 weeks in the bottle and closer to 6.
if you look closely at the label and the brewing instructions it will say that it needs to be brewed with additional fermentables.
from the instructions:

"MIX​

1. Mix can contents with 2 litres of water. Add recommended fermentables."

and on the can :

"recommended to be brewed with:
1 kg of light dry malt"

add your sugar now ! before its too late
is that a coopers starter kit - i love that fermenter

good luck

 

[Luxy]

Phew that was close,

Rushed out to get the sugar weigh them out at 900grm (erm was concern that they may not finish fermentation in time before I have to leave the house coming Monday evening)


Boom comes the head... for a while i thought it was gonna overflow and spill all over luckily it didn't. Gave it a good stir to make sure the sugar i poured in are fully dissolved.


Then the head kinda dissipated after all the stirring. Took abit of the wort and tried it out, tasted like beer very light some bitterness and sweetness(after the sugar addition i guess). At least there is no nasty or funky presence that scream its not beer I am brewing To be safe gave the inside ream of the fermenter and under the lid around the edge a quick spray of the Stellar San before putting the lid back on.

Very soon the air lock starts bubbling like it did on the first day again!

When all the bubbling died down after first day I was having doubt as slowing down of bubbling very much means the fermentation is almost over with not much sugar left to be converted into alcohol right? Somehow I managed to second guess my own doubt ( Infected beer or unhealthy yeast aside)

Went back on Cooper's site to try to look for the extract I purchased, turn out to be a Thomas Coopers Bootmaker Pale Ale. Those marketing gimmick of terming "Recommended" instead of "A must" has almost given me 6 gallon of watery beer I guess. Thanks for saving the beer fluketamer




The fermenter is not from the Cooper's starter kit but some online retailer from china

 

[fluketamer]

That head is called kreusen. And that looks like a great kreusen. It’s super clean looking prolly cause there’s very little hip matter in there . Nice and creamy white. It’s prolly mostly fresh live yeast with dextrin proteins. It would prolly be great for top cropping. Which is where you scoop a bunch of the kreusen and isolate the yeast out of it to give you fresh live healthy large amounts of yeast for you next batch.
unfortunately tho oxygen is an issue in brewing beer. You definitely want your yeast to have. A healthy amount of oxygen at the start of fermentation but once they start making your wort into beer that beer can get oxidized and will get oxidized. So try not to open the vessel and never stir it. You don’t have to worry the yeast will find and eat the sugar. And when you do bottle it try to minimize splashing to reduce oxygen. Fill the bottles from the bottom up with a bottling wand . Don’t let the beer spill into the bottles from the top.
the fact that it’s sweet with a little bitterness is good. But the yeast need more time to:finish . Don’t bottle sweet wort . It could explode the bottles. And no unfortunately lack of bubbles is not and indication of the end of fermentation. Dry tasting wort or better yet three consecutive stable hydrometer readings on 3 days means it’s done

the book makers pale ale is good. That beer will taste good but try to give it at least 4-5 weeks conditioning time . You will be surprised that you made good beer .

if you bottle it read about pouring home brew out of a bottle. You will have to learn how to pour the beer out of the bottle while leavin the yeast sediment in the bottle.

cheers and happy brewing you are off to a good start.

 

[Rish]

^^Good advice from @fluketamer . I would also suggest that once you get the same sg reading 3 days apart that you leave it in the fv for another 1-2 weeks to let the yeast do some clean up before bottling. Good luck!

 

[Luxy]

Erm abit confused as the initial suggestion is to leave it to ferment (primary) for at least 10 days now I should leave it for 1-2 weeks after 3rd consecutive days of same gravity reading? So it is totally fine I leave it in the fermenter even after the yeast has fully converted all the sugar? How long(grace period if somehow forgotten) can it(flat beer) last in the fermenter before I have to transfer them to bottle for secondary ferm? If its better to leave them for another 1-2 weeks then i will bottle them after my oversea trip.

 

[fluketamer]

so almost all companys that sell kits of any kind will tell you things like:

after 7 to 10 days bottle your beer"
or " you can have fresh beer in 7 days"
or " kit to glass in 4 weeks"
or some such thing
these are all marketing gimmics. first off it sounds very appealign and secondly, the quicker you make the beer the quicker you will want to buy more and the quicker they will sell there product$.
this is particularly true with prehopped can kits. they always say you will have great beer in no time. lol

patientce is really important inhomebrewing.

kviek may be a little different and i dont have experience with it. the warmer temps with that yeast may not make it as tolerant but they say it is a super resistant yeast. maybe others can chime in here.

getting back to your question.

many years ago, the original idea was to primary for a week then get it off the yeast into a secondary for 2 weeks then bottle it for 3 weeks. the 1 - 2 - 3 rule.

that has defiantely changed. 2 weeks primary 4 in the bottle is much better. but if you can leave it on primary yeast for 3 weeks its fine and invariably these beers are better imo. the yeast really clean up anything that wont taste good at that point. . your beer will be clearer in the bottle with less sediment. and prolly 4 weeks is better. just in my experience at 4 weeks you can run the risk of oxidation. unless you were really carefull and are really carefull with your FV.


you already introduced some oxygen in you beer when you added the sugar so it might be better to bottle before you leave. to be on the safe side thats what i would do.

if you cant then just leave it on primary for an extra 1-2 weeks and bottle when you come back. it will likely be crystal clear by then. hopefully not off.

it looks really good by the way and the video of the airlock for your first post is epic. i could watch that porn all day.

 

[mac_1103]

many years ago, the original idea was to primary for a week then get it off the yeast into a secondary for 2 weeks then bottle it for 3 weeks. the 1 - 2 - 3 rule.

Nowadays I generally use the 3 - 2 - 1 rule instead: 3 weeks in the fermenter, 2 weeks at ambient temperature to carbonate, 1 week in the fridge. I make exceptions for big beers, dry hopping, bulk aging, etc.

 

[Luxy]

Well I have decided to take the risk and bottling it only after my oversea trip. Here is a breakdown of the events that happened thus far:
06th Jan started the brew
10th Jan (4days from the initial) opened the fv to add sugar that I have missed out in the first place and by mistake introduced extra O2 due to trying to dissolve the added sugar
15th Jan (9days from the initial) leave for oversea
22th Jan (2 weeks 2 days from the initial) back from oversea to bottle the beer.
From here leave it for 2-3 weeks longer the better in the bottle for secondary then chill it in fridge for a week before tasting.

Just to provide an overview of everything incase somewhere somehow I missed out some info and still have the chance to amend any mistakes before I leave for oversea. Thanks so much guys~!!!

 

[lumpher]

That timeline should be OK, especially with Kveik. I wouldn't worry too much about the O2, as nothing can be done about it now, but if you ever add anything later again, don't stir it... sugar, hops, whatever. That makes it more oxidized. Only stir it pre-fermentation. Fermentation is an anaerobic process, which means it doesn't need or want more oxygen once fermentation starts.

 

[fluketamer]

Well I have decided to take the risk and bottling it only after my oversea trip. Here is a breakdown of the events that happened thus far:
06th Jan started the brew
10th Jan (4days from the initial) opened the fv to add sugar that I have missed out in the first place and by mistake introduced extra O2 due to trying to dissolve the added sugar
15th Jan (9days from the initial) leave for oversea
22th Jan (2 weeks 2 days from the initial) back from oversea to bottle the beer.
From here leave it for 2-3 weeks longer the better in the bottle for secondary then chill it in fridge for a week before tasting.

Just to provide an overview of everything incase somewhere somehow I missed out some info and still have the chance to amend any mistakes before I leave for oversea. Thanks so much guys~!!!

dont sweat the oxygen now like lumpher said. its a learning experience. and on day 4 when you hade what looked like vigorous fermentation, you had a ton of very active healthy yeast in there. you gave them fuel and its very possible they likely burned up any oxygen you added very rapidly. possibly before it oxidized your beer. you may have helped your yeast . who knows. seriously . i woudlnt be surprised if this comes out great. the best thing about homebrewing is that beer makes itself. im not saying good or great beer ,that takes time patience attention to detail ,learning , adapting, unfortunately a little $, etc, but you will make beer.

whatever comes out give this a lot of conditioning time.

relax dont worry and think about the homebrew you will have.

 

[Luxy]

Hi all,

Yea taking the whole brew thing with utmost positive spirit, even if it turned out undesirable, nonetheless will still be a valuable lesson in the journey of brewing hobby

Also planning to cultivate the yeast during bottling day to store them for future brew. Would such action be wise choice for a beginner to even consider?

 

[Luxy]

Bottling day for my Coopers Bootmaker Pale Ale





This is how I left it in the store room with suitable height for direct bottling the moment i get home from my oversea trip so as not to disturb the sediments(trubs) just before bottling.


Didnt have an OG but took a reading anyhow. Reads 1.000...(might be due to me adding slightly more water than the recommended plus shortage of 100grms of sugar added in the middle of the primary....) Taste wise just like flat beer without the carbonation but I also tasted a hint of sourness...barely noticeable or could be just a newbie thing?


Bottle some of it into 2 transparent bottles just to get a feel of the color outcome Looks clean to me very fine haze is that because its meant to be as ale type?


Salvaging the yeast for my future brew. Just curious whether the fine line somewhere at the lower half of the jar represent the layer between the trub(lower layer) and the yeast(the rest above the clearer line at the lower half) Appreciates if anyone can help confirm what I am getting at.

As of how the beer turn out will be back again hopefully a video of the first pour three weeks later

 

[Luxy]

Exactly 2 weeks at normal room temp for second fermentation and 1 week in chiller. As predicted I cant wait so long and immediately taste the beer after 2 weeks. Today I finally able to taste the 3 week conditioning beer. I had to say the beer that spend 2 weeks in normal room temp and 1 week in chiller tasted much better to mouth, while the one i tried immediately after 2 weeks of secondary ferm at room temp has a hint of sourness to it. Overall I am happy with it! I also make my own bak kwa(more or less similar to meat jerky for the western countries) I had to say the joy of tasting self-brewed beer and own made jerky is pure happiness~~~!!! Only thing i noted is the weak head retention, that probably due to insufficient sugar added during the brew day and the bottling day I suspect.

 

[fluketamer]

it looks great but google or go on you tube and search how to pour a homebrew.
your beer has sediment on the bottom. you dont want the beer to "glug" when it comes out of the bottle. it will stir up the sediment. besically its a shoulder height slow pour where you leave the last 1/4 inch of beer in the bottle to keep the yeast behind. also try to pour it all out into one glass or at least a small pitcher that you can then serve from. cause when you put it back down and then pour a second time the next glas will be full of yeast from getting stirred up.

also pour your beer down the side of a tilted glass so as not to degass the beer while pouring. if you want more head. you can pour it in the middle towards the end.

some will argue this but different pours are a difference in taste. but if you want more gas in the beer pour slow down the side of a tilted glass.

this will give you more gas in the mouth feel and head retention. the head retention comes from a lot of things but that has more to do with grain brewing then extract so the reason you are not retainin gyour head is becuase the beer is degassed and no bubble are being added to the head while you drink.
it looks a little undercarbed.

i have noticed and many threads suggest that 3 weeks at room temp really gets the gas into the beer not just in the head space above the beer. then after 3 weeks AND ONLY THEN, cold condition for as long as you want and as you stated the longer the better.

lastly the sugar on brew day doesnt affect the gas ( at least the way most of us do this - with priming sugar not the rheinhensttebgbot way.) . its safer to fully ferment your beer then bottle with priming sugar so you dont get bottle bombs then it is to depend on any unfermented fermentables in primary.

so the sugar added on bottling day should and will determine your carbonation volume or gassiness to your final product.

dont be afraid to add a little more to gas it up if you like when priming. ( just dont over do it- kaboom)

most commercial beers are very carbed . not like homebrewed ales or even a lot of pub ales in europe. think bud miler coors, molsens, corona, heinekin, stella. saporo kirin fosters. all the giant international commercial beers are super gassy. i like my beer that way cause i grew up on those beers. but homebrewers mostly make ales. and mostly drink them less carbed.

i often used this guide to bottle my beer when bottle priming adding 1/4 teaspoon more then reccomended to make the beer more carbed like commercial lagers. i have even added 1/2 teaspoon more then reccomended when bottling in PET . PET can take a lot of pressure.

congrats on the beer btw

 

[Rish]

^^This. Plus I find that head retention can improve as the beer conditions, so yours may be better as time passes. Congratulations on your brew!

 

[fluketamer]

btw i just noticed your swing tops. those are very sexy bottles. and thats the first time i have ever seen anyone use that thing. i like clear bottles ( ( loud shriek)) . and was wondering where you got that swingtop then realiezed its one of these:

i posted about those and got flamed for it but after bottling a mead in clear swing tops i really like how they look . its just that ld carlsen clear swing tops are like 35$ a case.

im pretrty sure those adaptable swings would work perfectly on mexican coke bottles and i can get those free. or jarritos or a number of other pressure rated clear glass cheap bottles i have access to.

 

[Luxy]

it looks great but google or go on you tube and search how to pour a homebrew.
your beer has sediment on the bottom. you dont want the beer to "glug" when it comes out of the bottle. it will stir up the sediment. besically its a shoulder height slow pour where you leave the last 1/4 inch of beer in the bottle to keep the yeast behind. also try to pour it all out into one glass or at least a small pitcher that you can then serve from. cause when you put it back down and then pour a second time the next glas will be full of yeast from getting stirred up.

also pour your beer down the side of a tilted glass so as not to degass the beer while pouring. if you want more head. you can pour it in the middle towards the end.

some will argue this but different pours are a difference in taste. but if you want more gas in the beer pour slow down the side of a tilted glass.



View attachment 842209

this will give you more gas in the mouth feel and head retention. the head retention comes from a lot of things but that has more to do with grain brewing then extract so the reason you are not retainin gyour head is becuase the beer is degassed and no bubble are being added to the head while you drink.
it looks a little undercarbed.

i have noticed and many threads suggest that 3 weeks at room temp really gets the gas into the beer not just in the head space above the beer. then after 3 weeks AND ONLY THEN, cold condition for as long as you want and as you stated the longer the better.

lastly the sugar on brew day doesnt affect the gas ( at least the way most of us do this - with priming sugar not the rheinhensttebgbot way.) . its safer to fully ferment your beer then bottle with priming sugar so you dont get bottle bombs then it is to depend on any unfermented fermentables in primary.

so the sugar added on bottling day should and will determine your carbonation volume or gassiness to your final product.

dont be afraid to add a little more to gas it up if you like when priming. ( just dont over do it- kaboom)

most commercial beers are very carbed . not like homebrewed ales or even a lot of pub ales in europe. think bud miler coors, molsens, corona, heinekin, stella. saporo kirin fosters. all the giant international commercial beers are super gassy. i like my beer that way cause i grew up on those beers. but homebrewers mostly make ales. and mostly drink them less carbed.

View attachment 842211
i often used this guide to bottle my beer when bottle priming adding 1/4 teaspoon more then reccomended to make the beer more carbed like commercial lagers. i have even added 1/2 teaspoon more then reccomended when bottling in PET . PET can take a lot of pressure.

congrats on the beer btw

Yeah I got excited to be able to finally video a pour from my first brew for the promised follow-up video that I have totally forgotten to check-out the already mentioned to me to check-out pouring videos

So that's the reason behind people always pouring beer with tilted glass so as not to degas too much of the beer mine is already under-carbonated so pouring it this way will end like like pouring water into glass no head at all

As there are limited space for me to condition those beer in the fridge for a week (2 at room temp) I ended up having half of the batch actually conditioned at room temperature for 3 weeks and I manage to squeeze them into whatever space i have in the fridge on the day I posted the videos so now I have to hold myself for another week (till monday) before trying the beer again

An aha moment when you mentioned the sugar added on brew day doesn't affect the final out come's carbonation volume as all the CO2 would have left the fermenter through the bubbling valve.

I googled according to your priming sugar guide for 1 liter bottle I should add 10.4grams to them but I have actually only added 4.5grams....I guess that's probably the main reason behind the under carb beers Will add a little extra(a quarter teaspoon max) for my next batch

I get 1 liter bottles with swing cap as I was not prepared to go through washing many bottles and pay more for smaller volume bottles, i get extra swing caps so I can use them of other glass bottles I have lying around the house =) I note that however they only fit those older type glass bottle as the groove near the opening is further away from the bottle mouth, some of the commercial beers now have the groove nearer to the bottle mouth thus the swing tops are not suitable to use.