Diarrhea in a cup anyone?

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twitchster

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After kegging, cold crashing, filtering and carbing my IIPA I took a sample of said beer and everything was fine. It wasn't exactly the same as the last batch I brewed (same recipe) but close enough. The beer had just a little bit of a haze to it, but nothing terrible. Well, I brewed this for a friend so after sampling it, I put it in the car and took it to his house. I hooked it up to his kegerator and poured a beer. It looked like baby poo. I understand that it was probably due to the shaking around of the beer in the car and also the increase in temperature that caused it to be really foamy but this was for about a week that this happened. It could have been longer but at this point he refused to drink it. Well, I went to his house last night, after the keg had been untouched for about 2 weeks and the first picture shows how it poured after that amount of time.
I went ahead and brewed another beer for him to replace that one so I took the baby poo home with me. With it all nice and clear now, (at least last night it was) I figure I'll finish it off. Well, I go to pour one this morning and the second picture is what it looked like. What the f*** is going on?

20140906_181534.jpg


20140907_115932.jpg
 
So is this actually giving you diarrhea or it just looks bad?


Pleas excuse my dyslexia
 
It sounds like it got shaken up in the drive over to his house. Sitting for a couple weeks it cold crashed and fell bright. Then you shook it up bringing it back home. A week or so and it should fall bright again, I would guess.
 
I had an apple ale (Graff) do this to me. Now I will always have pectin enzyme on hand. Looks like diarrhea but tastes fine. But pectin probably isn't your problem. You could probably throw some gelatin in, looks like hardcore yeast in suspension.
 
Yeah all the junk that had settled to the bottom is now swimming around in your brew. Give it 24 hours or so and it'll be back at the bottom. It does kind of mess the taste up IMO.
 
Cold crash it and pull a beer off before moving it and you'll get a lot of the yeast out of the way, probably not all of it but most.
Or improve your racking technique;)
 
After you keg, carbonate and cold crash pull a pint or two until it is clear. Then use co2 and push that into a new keg. Serve from that keg. You will leave all that behind and you can transport it a lot easier.
 
When your keg is done, look on the bottom of it. Now that is more like baby poo! More so if you let it sit for a few months to a year.

If you need to transport a keg with a precipitate, you should rack the clear beer to a new keg being careful not to move over any of the trub. Make a liquid to liquid bridge with a short piece of hose and 2 QDs and stick an open QD on receiving keg's gas post. Then push the beer slowly from one to the other with CO2. Again do not empty all the way, leave at least a quart behind. When to stop is the trick, perhaps err on the safe side, or use a scale.

Last, purge the new keg's headspace, as usual.

How did you "filter" your beer in the first place? Proper filtering holds back everything including the yeast.
 
When your keg is done, look on the bottom of it. Now that is more like baby poo! More so if you let it sit for a few months to a year.

If you need to transport a keg with a precipitate, you should rack the clear beer to a new keg being careful not to move over any of the trub. Make a liquid to liquid bridge with a short piece of hose and 2 QDs and stick an open QD on receiving keg's gas post. Then push the beer slowly from one to the other with CO2. Again do not empty all the way, leave at least a quart behind. When to stop is the trick, perhaps err on the safe side, or use a scale.

Last, purge the new keg's headspace, as usual.

How did you "filter" your beer in the first place? Proper filtering holds back everything including the yeast.

This is what I used to filter: http://morebeer.com/products/beer-wine-filtering-kit.html

Not sure why it didn't work the way it should have if that is yeast. I'll have to try a transfer next time too I guess. So, is it just taking about a week for everything to settle? The first picture was of the beer after the keg hadn't been touched in about 2 weeks. Thanks for the help guys and keep any suggestions and advice coming!
 
1 micron should filter yeast, but I'm not sure how tight those spun filters really are. Maybe you got a 5 micron one.

Since it's an IIPA, did you dry hop after filtering?
If those are hop particles you'd know, they leave a good harsh bite on your tongue. The foam will be brownish green too.
 
1 micron should filter yeast, but I'm not sure how tight those spun filters really are. Maybe you got a 5 micron one.

Since it's an IIPA, did you dry hop after filtering?
If those are hop particles you'd know, they leave a good harsh bite on your tongue. The foam will be brownish green too.

No, I dry hopped before filtration. I cold crashed and then dumped the trub/yeast before racking into the keg. I always order the 1 micron filters because I want to get everything out of the beer that I can. It doesn't look like hop particulate y what you described. You can look at the bottom of the glass, even after it sits for about an hour, and there is no sediment that falls to the bottom. Just poopy juice in a glass.
 
Another vote for suspended yeast here. Happened to me a few times when I was a new brewer and tried to bring kegs over to friends parties an hour before serving. It doesn't take long for it to settle back out if it's kept ice cold and very still.


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Well, suspended yeast seems to be the general consensus so that must be what it is. I'l try the transfer and see if that helps in future batches.
 
I filter with cylinders. It should look like amber glass even if you roll the keg down Everest.... I'm gonna say your filter probably is crap. When it comes to filters there are the marketing numbers and then there are the nominal numbers. You want 1 micron nominal.
 
I filter with cylinders. It should look like amber glass even if you roll the keg down Everest.... I'm gonna say your filter probably is crap. When it comes to filters there are the marketing numbers and then there are the nominal numbers. You want 1 micron nominal.

Where do you get your filters? I use the cylinder filters as well. The ones I get say say 1 micron nominal. This is the first time I've had this problem since filtering. Eight other batches with nothing like this before.
 
Where do you get your filters? I use the cylinder filters as well. The ones I get say say 1 micron nominal. This is the first time I've had this problem since filtering. Eight other batches with nothing like this before.

Here are the ones that I like:

Pentek Pleated Cellulose-Polyester ECP1-10

They are a bit pricey, but I back flush them, and can usually get 6 or more beers per filter.
 
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