damn. bad math. how to save?

[SanPancho]

long story short, I was switching batch size on the fly at the lhbs, with wife in car giving me the evil eye through the window while she waited with screaming infant...

long story short, shoulda been 96ish % base, and 3.5% crystal. I goofed and wound up with more like 9.5% crystal. carastan light to be exact. about 15L. not too dark. but almost 10% of grist.

my plan for IPL is gonna be way off. don't wanna waste the hops on that one. so......

1- keep on truckin. maybe swap the hops I was going to use for some other "experimental" types that I keep meaning to try but haven't gotten to yet

2- toss in some enzyme and make it a brut

3- go with whatever c type hops I have on hand (ctz, cenntennial, even Simcoe?) and make it a weird pale ale with some good bittering to counteract the crystal

4- toss in some Kveik and some lacto, run it hot and let it get sour, then hit it with some fruit and see what happens.

thoughts?

 

[isomerization]

Sounds like it’s a good west coast IPA base? I’d go with a combo of 1/3, although that could affect your ability to judge the new hops properly.

Edit: I meant the up the bittering part from 3

 

[SanPancho]

bit heavy on the crystal, but yeah not too far off a pale/ipa base. that's what gave me the c hop idea.

 

[Dgallo]

I say mash low to dry it a tad and hit it with an 1 oz of magnum at 60. Then you can run the hops schedule anyway you choose. Stone does a nice job with juicer west coast IPAs so you could certainly try the experimental if you wish but also you can’t go wrong with cascade and Simcoe

 

[Calder]

Go with it. Arrogant Bastard is 10% Special-B/CaraAroma, and SNPA clone is 1 lb C60 in 5 gallons (which is around 10%). I don't think you will be ruining a beer, could even be improving it; just different. Mash on the low side to ensure it doesn't come out too sweet.

 

[SanPancho]

I say mash low to dry it a tad and hit it with an 1 oz of magnum at 60. Then you can run the hops schedule anyway you choose. Stone does a nice job with juicer west coast IPAs so you could certainly try the experimental if you wish but also you can’t go wrong with cascade and Simcoe

hate stone. it all tastes the same. can't put my finger on it but I generally avoid them.

I did mash low, so that should help, left it in the cooler for about 5 hours, from 150 down to 140 so hopefully it dries out a good bit.

as for hops, just gave it some mt hood and centennial at FO (no crystal on hand, saving the ctz) at 195 as I didn't plan on using any 60 additions. got some whole cone Ron Mexico in back of freezer I needed to use, pretty old. just tossed that in at 150ish. let it sit for 30. then figure out how to drain as I just realized I didn't install the dip tube in the kettle. fug. this brew just never ends.

as for dry hops got a half used bag of aus summer, some comet, some nz waktu from 2015 I just found at the bottom. Belma. Pekko. more Ron Mexico but in pellets. summit. Tettnang and cz kazbek.

 

[Dgallo]

Ron Mexico if your trying to kill sweetness. The beers I’ve had it in they were very resiny and dank. But in the end, it’s beer and will taste fine even if it’s not what is planned

 

[SanPancho]

really? haven't used it but all the stuff I saw/read was tropical, fruity, etc.

 

[RM-MN]

I did mash low, so that should help, left it in the cooler for about 5 hours, from 150 down to 140 so hopefully it dries out a good bit.

That extra long mash may not do what you expect. People have done overnight mashes and expected their beer to turn out really dry but it was as if they had only done a 60 minute mash. I did some research only to find that the enzymes are quickly denatured at typical mash temperatures so a 60 minute mash equals a 90 minute mash equals a 30 minute mash if the grains are milled fine enough to expose the starches for conversion.

With poorly milled grains it takes a lot more time for the starches to be gelatinized so conversion takes longer but the actual time from gelatinization of the starch to full converion (somewhat temperature dependant) is very short. I've done some experimentation with very fine crushes and found that I have full conversion in less than 5 minutes and that leaving the mash longer had no effect on the fermentability of the wort.

 

[isomerization]

really? haven't used it but all the stuff I saw/read was tropical, fruity, etc.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/opinions-on-the-new-sabro-hop.657898/

I think you’re right, at least based on these posts.

 

[Dgallo]

Sabra isn’t Ron Mexico, no?

 

[Dgallo]

really? haven't used it but all the stuff I saw/read was tropical, fruity, etc.

Could be one of those lot things and beers I had, had hops from a poor lot

 

[BrewMan13]

Sabra isn’t Ron Mexico, no?

Yeah, they're the same. Sabro is the official name for what was colloquially known as Ron Mexico (aka HBC438).

 

[Dgallo]

Yeah, they're the same. Sabro is the official name for what was colloquially known as Ron Mexico (aka HBC438).

Stand corrected. No addition breeding done after the release of Ron Mexico?

 

[isomerization]

Stand corrected. No addition breeding done after the release of Ron Mexico?

Maybe you’re thinking of Strata? I get some dank/diesel out of that one.

 

[SanPancho]

Thats contrary to my experience. We’re not talking brut levels of dryness but definitely more than the typical calculator predictions based on yeast type. If i had to guess id say an extra 10% boost in attenuation. (I.e a 70% rate would end up 75-80%) Drier, but not like saison/brut/brett levels of dryness.

In any case, the carastan isnt affected anyways so no matter how much i dry out the base 90% i still have 10% of light crystal.